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Pro Pages > Kavajecz and Parsons > Articles
by Gary Parsons and Keith Kavajecz
Our goal here is to share a few of our techniques for fishing heavy current and high water, realizing that although this situation isn't always the best walleye fishing in the world...fishing "heavy water" is often the best walleye fishing available for the time of year.
Against the Flow:
Our technique was to run heavy bottom bouncer rigs. Two and three ounce Rock-Runner bouncers were trolled very slowly upstream against the heavy current. The bottom wire of the bouncer would just tick bottom as we moved along. Behind the bouncer we ran a rig that we learned about from a fellow professional angler Dale Stroschein, and have since dubbed this successful setup the "Dubuque Rig". It consists of a 3 foot snell, a red bead, a Mustad #2 gold Aberdeen hook on which is threaded a twister tail style grub like the Berkley Neonz Power Grub adding both scent and bright color (important factors when fishing dingy water). The hook is then dressed with either a piece of night crawler, a minnow or a leech. The key is to move this rig slowly along the contour of the channel break, keeping it in the strike zone. As with most of our walleye fishing, we use thin diameter, no stretch FireLine for this technique (in this case 10-4 FireLine) because it has an incredible amount of sensitivity and very little water
resistance allowing us to use the lightest bouncer necessary while maintaining bottom contact.
In most cases the fish would relate primarily to the top of the break, just before it drops off into the main channel. The use of a very powerful bowmount trolling motor is the best way to present this rig, but unless you have a motor that will move your boat against heavy current (for most 17 to 20 foot walleye boats you'd need at least 50+ pounds of thrust), a kicker motor will also do the trick. Using a kicker motor in conjunction with your bowmount can also provide good boat control in this situation, using the kicker motor to propel the boat forward, while using the bowmount to steer the boat along the contour.
A good trick to keep in mind is that when you do hook a fish, let your boat drift back with the current during the fight then pull the boat right back through the same area for another pass. These fish will often run in little "rat packs", and you'll be able to pick off two or three before spooking the pack. Then it's just a matter of covering water again to contact the next bunch of fish.
Wing Dam Savvy:
Just like with the Dubuque Rig technique, boat control plays an important part of fishing wing dams. Although covering water is not the goal, boat position is vital. Whether using your bowmount trolling motor, kicker motor or both, the key is to position and hold the boat just upstream of the wing dam. Work your rigs so that you can feel the transition from softer bottom to rock bottom (at the base of the dam). Keeping the sinker right on that transition will allow the small jig to dance along the rock face of the dam where the fish are holding. From there it's just a matter of slipping the boat back and forth along the face of the wing dam until fish are contacted.
Vertical Jigging:
Due to a more aggressive jigging action, live bait doesn't work real well. More durable soft plastics, like the Berkley Power Jig Worm work great because they're so soft have good actions and the added scent is a plus in off-colored water.
Go With The Flow:
Areas where this works especially well are really quite common in many larger river systems...hard bottom areas that resemble a "washboard" or series of small "dunes" created by the current running over a flat sandy bottom. The "dunes" built up by the current action offer a bunch of small current breaks that fish settle down into. These areas can be productive any time, but seem especially good in high water. Other hard bottom areas like clam beds can attract fish much the same way, but are much more difficult to locate.
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