AquaMan
05-03-2000, 11:50 AM
LAST EDITED ON May-03-00 AT 01:56PM (CST)[p]For some reason this post was in "Archive mode" only. Here is Judo's question and some insight that I did, or wish I did, with mine.
Q) - "Just bought a new Minnkota Autopilot 55# thrust with a 54 inch shaft. I have a Spectrum 16 ft. boat. What do I need to mount the motor?
Will a removable trolling motor bracket fit.
Do I need a retractable mount? It looks like it would stick out over the bow. I would like to leave it on so I can fasten a transducer to it for my depthfinder. However I'm not sure it would fit under my travel cover. Any help or sugestions are greatly apperciated."
A) - I used a quick connect plate that I got from Cabela's for the MinnKota series. I mounted the plate on the left side - a mistake since I can't see the head direction while someone is sitting in the bow seat. (I have a tiller) You might opt for the right side.
Have someone help you find the best spot.
with the mounting bracket attached to the motor, first hold the unit in place with it in the storage possition and then in the running possition to get a visual on any interference with either the motor or other rigging.
You don't want the head of the motor to sit too far inside the bow area, nor do you want it to sit out side of the gunnel. Centered over the gunnel is best. The mounting plate need to be as level as possible. I used sone very think rubber bushings to achieve this and shaved them to fit level.
The overhang you described is only required of the motor base. The mounting plate can be setback since there are several hole options on the plate to accomdate setback. This is why you will test the location with the motor in the running possition. Find the minimum over hang and add about a half inch for shaft flexing. I had a deck that permited me to line up the front of the mounting plate flush with the bow gunnel.
Hopfully your boat has some kind of deck on the bow to do all this, otherwise you must create one.
When I remove the motor from the connection base, I do not have anything extenting out side the edge of the boat.
The base does not have to point straight forward for the motor to opperate since the shaft turns independently.
The >trolling motor transducer< (different from the skimmer style) can be mounted with a large hose clamp to the prop housing. Use cable ties to sinch the line at the base of the shaft then run the line up the shaft(DO NOT ATTACH TO THE MIDDLE SHAFT) through the pull-handle base and sinch to the top of the shaft. Leave a little slack in this line to accomodate for the turning head/shaft and the stationary pull-handle base.
For disconnection, simply unplug the transducer cable from the display, unscrew the thumb nut on the motor base, unplug the power and in less then 3 minutes, your motor is off the boat and all you have is a flat plate on the bow.
I would not run the boat down the road with the motor AND the cover. Too many sharp edges to shred the cover on.
That should do it. You gonna like that motor:-)
Good luck!
AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Q) - "Just bought a new Minnkota Autopilot 55# thrust with a 54 inch shaft. I have a Spectrum 16 ft. boat. What do I need to mount the motor?
Will a removable trolling motor bracket fit.
Do I need a retractable mount? It looks like it would stick out over the bow. I would like to leave it on so I can fasten a transducer to it for my depthfinder. However I'm not sure it would fit under my travel cover. Any help or sugestions are greatly apperciated."
A) - I used a quick connect plate that I got from Cabela's for the MinnKota series. I mounted the plate on the left side - a mistake since I can't see the head direction while someone is sitting in the bow seat. (I have a tiller) You might opt for the right side.
Have someone help you find the best spot.
with the mounting bracket attached to the motor, first hold the unit in place with it in the storage possition and then in the running possition to get a visual on any interference with either the motor or other rigging.
You don't want the head of the motor to sit too far inside the bow area, nor do you want it to sit out side of the gunnel. Centered over the gunnel is best. The mounting plate need to be as level as possible. I used sone very think rubber bushings to achieve this and shaved them to fit level.
The overhang you described is only required of the motor base. The mounting plate can be setback since there are several hole options on the plate to accomdate setback. This is why you will test the location with the motor in the running possition. Find the minimum over hang and add about a half inch for shaft flexing. I had a deck that permited me to line up the front of the mounting plate flush with the bow gunnel.
Hopfully your boat has some kind of deck on the bow to do all this, otherwise you must create one.
When I remove the motor from the connection base, I do not have anything extenting out side the edge of the boat.
The base does not have to point straight forward for the motor to opperate since the shaft turns independently.
The >trolling motor transducer< (different from the skimmer style) can be mounted with a large hose clamp to the prop housing. Use cable ties to sinch the line at the base of the shaft then run the line up the shaft(DO NOT ATTACH TO THE MIDDLE SHAFT) through the pull-handle base and sinch to the top of the shaft. Leave a little slack in this line to accomodate for the turning head/shaft and the stationary pull-handle base.
For disconnection, simply unplug the transducer cable from the display, unscrew the thumb nut on the motor base, unplug the power and in less then 3 minutes, your motor is off the boat and all you have is a flat plate on the bow.
I would not run the boat down the road with the motor AND the cover. Too many sharp edges to shred the cover on.
That should do it. You gonna like that motor:-)
Good luck!
AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~