Harness line??

[Wiley Walleye]

What do you guys use to make your own harness. I have just used about 10 lb mono. Have considered the Flurocarbon. What about some of the super lines? Looking for something strong but with little memory.
Good time of year to do this, getting ready for next spring.

[perchjerker]

I like your post. I was thinking to post something similar. Guys, lets do a thread about harnesses. What to you like for leader material, length, hooks, clevises(I love Quick Change), tying methods, etc. Any tips would be great! Lets get down and dirty, dig up the nitty gritty on this one! I love tying my own, Im sure lots of people do, too...

[SLIPKNOT]

Trilene XT line is the best for harnesses, I use 17 lb test, owner hooks by far and away are the best hooks I think, leader length depends on where your fishing. If you are fishing in stumps and dirty water 20" snell is about right, but if your on the great lakes 4 ft snells work good.

[Kevin/CO]

XT is a respectable line for sure, works very well. However for myself I use SpiderWire Super Mono #12 and haven't had many if any memory issues. Its a very strong line and holds knots very well when tied properly. Owner hooks, great hooks, very sharp and good holding power, I like the coated walleye Gamatsu hooks the best though. I like to add a splash of color at the very end of the harness, I think that last lil quirk helps sometimes. But for non coated/colored hooks definitely Owner.

[Wallygetter]

I use Trilene XT 12 lbs test for my crawler harnesses, 12 lbs Sensathin for leaders on my dipseys, and I'm finding out I really like the Seaguar Carbon Pro 15 lbs for all aplications. The Seaguar has little to no memory, is as close to being invisable as you can get, plus it is very tough and seems to be abrasion resistant with just the right amount of stretch for quick hookups. I'll tie up several dozen different lengths and put them in Glad sandwhich bags and label them, that way they are ready to go when I may need them. Wallygetter

[Gabby_SD]

Along the same subject. Another trick to get rid of the coils in your harness (line memory) pick up a small section of innertube and cut 2 pieces about the size of a quarter, then glue them to a piece of leather, so that it can be folded over and the 2 pieces of rubber are restng on top of each other, Also you can purchase the whole unit at Cabela's (fly fishing section).
Place the harness between the pieces of rubber and put some squeezing pressure on them (not alot)Then pull the harness thru the contraption and Viola!! coils are gone

[Ben]

I like to tie all of my harnesses with 12# sensithin. I also like to add color to the last hook on my rig, usually in the form of a very small spot of red finger nail polish. I always tie my rigs in very long lengths, never less than 6-8 feet because it always easy to quickly shorten the length of the leader. Any suggestions for storing them? I have used those little "tubes" where you wrap it around and velcro or stab the last hook into rubber, but these are quite cumbersome.

[Gilligan]

I won't use anything special usually what ever is cheap at Walmart in 14-17# and I tie them in just 1' lengths. I then tie harness to specific length, pretied leaders of Seaguar Flourocarbon. There is alot of junk floruro out there, this brand is quality stuff. As for storing the harnesses and leaders.. pick up some of those round styrofoam noodles that they sell for kids water toys at Wal Mart. They are in about 4' lengths, cut into 12" lengths. I tie a snap swivel on each end of the leader which can be forced into the material, then wrap leader around tube and push the second swivel into the material to hold it in place. You can use a different color tube for different leader lengths or just mark length on the end with a magic marker. Store crawler harnesses by starting with the loop end, wraping it down to the hooks and imbed in the styrofoam. Wet your knots well when tying the flourocarbon.

[iamwalleye1]

I use fireline some times it seem to hold up better and no memory! I also have tried 10lb. XT. The red hook deal works very well when tipped with a leech.

[Juls_WI]

I like the 15# test P-line 100% flourocarbon (not the coated line).
I don't use this for every body of water, but I will use it when there is relatively clean water. For dirtier water, I go with something cheaper but in a 17# test. The P-Line 100% is very expensive, but it's virtually invisible in the water, and it's very very strong.

I tie my leads in 6-8 foot lengths, and, like Gilligan, I wrap them around a styrofoam section cut from a Water Noodle. The styro sections then get stored in a Tupperware-like box. I cut a slit into the styrofoam length wise, and push the barrel swivel that I have on the tag end of the leader into the slit, and wrap the harness around. The hooks will secure it in place.

By using the barrel swivel on the tag end, I don't have to change the snap on my trolling rods over to swivels in order to stop line twist. This saves time.

Juls

[Pitts]

Thanks for that tip Juls I have been changing to swivels from the plain snap if I started pulling harnesses and it is a pain. A swivel on each harness will eliminate that step.
Never quit learning.

Thanks

Pitts

[Tom (mich)]

I use 15 lb Seguar flouro and typically stick with 4 ft leaders and shorten if need be. I also switched exclusively to the plastic, quick-change clevis' - not so much because of the quick-change feature but rather because I feel their less apt to damage the line. One word of caution, two years ago I tied several hundred harnesses using Vanish 10 lb - pure junk for leader material. Had multiple break offs right at the hooks.

[groovymoe]

Wiley,

I use a lot of harnesses in a years time due to nicks, tangles, etc. I know some people enjoy the art of tackle making, however if you use large amounts of harnesses, you will get some sore fingers tying them. I use, and recommend the harnesses that Jann's Netcraft sell. They are tied on a good strong leader, and come pre-rigged with beads, and an interchangeable clevis. These units are strong enough to troll with, and light enough to cast, or drift with. The leaders are about 4 feet long. This allows you to shorten them to the length you desire. I also replace the beads that come with them because they are round, and put on faceted beads for more reflection. I also put a Sampo ball bearing swivel on the end to help control twisting. I think they get around 12 bucks for 25 rigs, but don't quote me on that. I swear by them. Don't forget we need to get together next spring for that Port Clinton trip that we talked about at the get together. See you later.

Groovymoe

[Wiley Walleye]

Perchjerker thanks for adding to the request. I met you at the WC while buying "supplies" at the local mart. I am in the middle of changing to DSL and new E-mail set up. When done I would like to recontact for your appreciated help on the runners.
Groovymoe, thats why I am tying or buying now.
A lot of good suggestions, keep them coming. After I posted I noticed the catalogs are now selling fireline and floro harnesses. Would like to hear more on the pro and con vs mono. I will try the rubber on my existing harnesses.
I now use the Tackle Buddy to store my harnesses. I do like the center to keep extra weights. But the styro tubes will be given a try and placed in with my Erie only box. Has anyone tried storing on a 2 to 6' material and only had to bend the harness once, rather than wrapping?

[Capt. Denny Bergeman]

I use Berkley Vanish 20# test for all of my harnesses. For the casting weapons 18" in length. I use #5 beads with quick change clevises and a single Eagle Claw bait holder hook #2. For my casting worm harnesses 21" in lenght same as weapon only use two hooks. For the bottom bouncers the lenght will vary from two feet to four feet. Will use two hooks same size as above only last hook now is a treble #6. I will vary my blade size from 3 to 5 (Colorado or Indiana). Good Fishing.

[RANGER]

Ok, here is what I use, generally:

#2 Eagle Claw or Mustad baitholder hooks, I prefer the Mustad.

12 lb test Trilene XT or Stren Magnathin in "Walleye", I prefer the Stren. 36" in length.

Assorted beads in #4 size.

Assorted blades but MOSTLY #3 Indiana blades in nickle and brass.

Quick change clevises.

I carry Rig Floats 5/16 X 11/16 in case I want them just above the bottom.

I also tie a tube of fireline harnesses.

I also have circle hooks at the ready.

A whole box of various sinkers in egg and lindy bottom walker shapes, and sizes, with a bunch a Gremlin snap-lock "bell" type sinkers for quick additions/deletions of weight without retying.

I store mine on those big Tackle Buddy tubes 8 1/2" X 2 1/2 dia. I have 10 tubes with 2 harnesses per divider on the tube wrapped left to right on, so they come off in reverse (180 harnesses, total) - NEVER tangle. The large diameter keeps line memory to a minimum. The tubes have removable end caps with dry storage inside. That's where all the spinner blades, floats, circle hooks, etc. go. With the right combination of all these things you can do a lot of, and quickly done, color/presentation changes on the water. The tubes are carried and stored in a small nylon duffle bag. Looks about the size of a bowling ball bag.

[waterfowler]

I haven't tied any yet, but I'm going try some with fireline and P-line(flouro) this spring for Mille Lacs. I usually use 8 or 10 lb mono, any brand works. It's not uncommon to use a 8-10' snells for this lake. I tie most of my rigs assuming the worst case scenario, Mille Lacs. I can always cut them down for other lakes/rivers. My only suggestion is to tie your harness with a less poundage than the main line on the reel. This way, you only lose the harness in a snag vs. the weight and all. I know it doesn't always work, but most of the time it will save you a few pennies. I use an assortment of colors in the number 6 gamakatsoo hooks. Red is usually best, but chartruese produced well last spring also.

To prevent twisting in my line and instead of wasting a bunch of money on swivels I do this. Buy all quick change bottom bouncers and lindy weights. I use a large clevis to hook the weight to, then tie off to a quality sampo snap/swivel. This allows me to tie a simple loop in the end of the harness and yet doesn't cause any line twist. It also allows me to change bottom bouncers/lindy weights in a matter of seconds.

[ufda]

What type of water and how do you fish? Sounds like most of you are trolling open water for big fish - 17# 12#. Fishing clear water, Lindy rigging on the bottom (rocks, etc.) where the average walley is 6#or less, I never go over 8# line and usually use Excalibur for its abrasion resistance and most leaders are 6ft +. When I use bottom bouncers, I use cheap (stiff) 10# as I want it as straight out behind as possible and I am using plugs, spoons or large spinner rigs, not finesse fishing, so invisibility is not a serious concern.

[Stormsearch]

I primarily fish open waters, Erie and Saginaw Bay. For these areas I use #4 to #8 colorodo blades . With the bigger blades, they will twist the snot out of superlines because they are too limber. Last year, used pretty mucy 12 lb. XT, but retying everything this year with 15 or 20 lb. Seagur Flouro. Fish were bigger this year and some ended up chewing through the back hook. Pretty much all lengths are about 4'.

Two years ago I used circle hooks for the entire season. My catch ratio slightly went up from previous years but it is a major pain to string a crawler on that bent tip. I use the tackle buddies for storage. And again with the circle hooks was hard hooking into even the soft rubber. Last year and this year have used Gamakatsu bait holders in size #1 and #2.

Depending on color I used either white or the red quick release clevises. The red ones after limited use started to lose some of my blades. Not fun when you have a hot color working and not many available in the box. Will rety this year with all white.

Little tips are always use a red front bead. Nothing else really major.

[perchjerker]

Ranger, Stormsearch-
Tell me about Circle hooks. Is that a brand name or a style? That one slipped by me.

I started using Tru Turn thin wire black hooks, they work good for me. Havent had one fail me yet. I think though that they have a tendency to twist the line if you dont have the crawler on just right. I bought a small spool of 17 lb floro to use as a leader on my spoons, I think I will try that, too.Its still in the box, I have never used it yet. See how it works. Does the floro have much memory to it? I also use a simple little tool to tie the snells called the matchman, got it from class tackle to tie #18 ice fishing hooks with, but now I use it for all my snells. I also like the barrel swivel and snap ideas, I have messed around with that some, too. For storage, I got some solid foam from a packing carton at work, cut it on a bandsaw , oh, about 4 in diameter, covered it with the soft side of some velcro, and cut some small squares of the hook side to secure the ends with, I do have a few tackle tamers, too. They work well.

[Kevin/CO]

Circle hooks are a design of hook. The tips are bent in and in most of a circle shape. The most notable advantage to circle hooks are their supposed inability to "gut hook". The circle hook instead hooks the fish in the side of the mouth, normally behind the jaw bones. The problem with circle hooks it that the fish have to be allowed to take the bait and run a bit to ensure the hook reaches the side of the mouth and there's no hook set. They are hard to get used to but are better for catch and release purposes. Give and Take.

[perchjerker]

Oh, ok. So they are different than a live bait hook or beak hook. I just pulled out the trusty Cabelas Tackle Craft cat. and see what your talking about.

[Peter H]

I use Seaguar CarbonPro 12# Fluorocarbon for my harnesses. In my experience, it holds up much better then XT. I have an example to prove my point. I was fishing in a tournament and my partner was using XT. He was constantly getting broken off and we were pulling inlines close to the bottom. My fluorcarbon never got cut off. When some some abrasion appeared on the leader I quickly changed the leader. My partner quickly changed to using my fluorocarbon. Zebra mussles do a number on any line. My leader are made long (6 - 8 ft) with a surgeons loop knot on the end. You can quickly tie this knot again to make a shorter leaders.

I was shown another trick this year while fishing off of Sturgeon Bay of using a 1/0 spinnerbait hook preferably with a bait keeper barb on the shank. If the line becomes abraded, cut off a few inches and retie with a polamar knot. A good quick change, if the fish are smashing the spinner blade. Otherwise I use, from #6 - #2 Gamakatsu Octopus hooks - red. Usually 2, about a fist apart about 4" using a snell knot.

As for beads, I find the 5mm assorted multifaceted plastic beads from Walmart work well. The hole in the bead is a little rough but the colors are great (browns, yellow, reds, greens, orange, and blues). They have many different colors and sizes. My daughter likes to sort so she can have a few to make a necklace. (Hint have the kids do the sorting). Matter of fact my daughter saw the toy they are advertising for xmas that automatically places beads on a string and she thought that it would be good for daddy to make spinner rigs out of. Love that girl. Walmarts pearls are also good but avoid the metal colored beads. The metal comes off after a short while. Stamina has a good selection of rounds and special beads. Metal colors are harder to find. Bobwhite Bait and Trout in Coleman, WI, has a good selection of metal beads (multifaceted and smooth) that do not wear out. Copper is a good one on the bay at times.

As for the clevises, I use the quick change clevis from Stamina. Easy to change blades to the hot color.

As for blades, I use Colorado deep cut size 4,5 and 6 or Doc Shelton Spinner blades (like Hatchet blades) size 5, from Stamina again. I keep all colors and sizes available since I think this is one of the keys to making the spinner rigs work. I have other spinner blades and I keep them sorted by type and color in a number of flat boxes.

As for tying a rig - wait until you need them. One will only be asking for problems in the future with a line that has memory in it or you might forget when you tied it and that rig may be too old. I trash all my old rigs and tie fresh for the new year. I do save all the beads, good hooks and clevis. It only takes a small amount of time to tie before your next trip. Tie up a number (2 dozen) of different color patterns and leave the clevis empty. Change up the blade until you find the blade of choice.

Love those spinner baits.....

[RANGER]

Exactly!

[instigator]

Was wondering if any of you guys tie your own rigs with smile blades they seem to really beat up fireline and mono was wondering what the best line would be for tying these thanx..Instigator

[Wiley Walleye]

Is the Stamina clevis plastic or metal. I think I got some cheap plastic and have lost blades because of it.
Do you think the blade action is as good on the plastic clevis as the metal ones?
Thanks to all, I have learned a lot.

[Stormsearch]

They carry both but mainly are referring to the plastic ones. I have lost a bunch of blades on the red color but not the white. I will be retying this year getting rid of the red ones. After losing enough blades the last couple of years, I now pay attention to the clevices to make sure they are not being worn out removing/adding blades.

The only time I do not use plastic is when using using size #3 blades or smaller and trolling very slow ~1mph or slower. Smaller blades have a hard spinning the clevices. Metal clevices will allow blades to spin easier at slower speeds and give you some noise if needed for attraction. Good luck.