View Full Version : Rigging rod length.
I am just in the process of building some more rigging rods.
These rods will be all medium light, and some will be spinning rods, and some will be bait casters.
I am wondering what everyone is using for lengths on rigging rods.
I have been somewhat partial to 7 foot rods, but it seems that perhaps 7'6" or even an 8' rod might not be a bad idea.
At the building stage, it is no big deal to extend a rod 6" or a foot if necessary.
Let me know what your favorite lengths are for various types of rigging.
REW
slip_bobber
01-15-2002, 11:21 PM
REW
I use 7 1/2' rods for rigging on Mille Lacs. The snell length has alot to do with the length of the rods. I may use snells up to 12'. I've tried an 8'rod. One I built. Didn't like it as much. I don't think it had the leverage I needed. On the other hand my wife prefers 7' rods. She rigs with the best of us and feels that she can controll the fish better with the shorter stick.
Mattman
01-16-2002, 04:49 AM
I'm kinda in the same situation. Thanks for the rod building tips last year, by the way. I'd like a good rigging rod and I'm kinda partial to a 7 footer. 6 1/2 is bare minimum. And I've thought about a 7 1/2 to 8 foot rod. I think the action would have to be just right though. On any longer rods that I've looked at (haven't gotten a chance to fish one) I've really felt that I would be at more of a disadvantage due to the rods characteristics. I didn't really like how and where the flex was. I too feel that I can control the fish better with a shorter rod.
What blanks have you decided on? If any. I'm on this same quest my self and I'd love to hear what you've settled on. I've been wondering what Loomis' Hot Shot blanks would be like. Also, their Steelhead blanks. Although they are quite long.
Better to have and not need than to need and not have!
Matt Davis
Big Laker
01-16-2002, 07:20 AM
Where does I guy get started with rod building?
I've thought about doing it before, sounds like a good winter project.
Other than the satisfaction of making it yourself, is there much of a cost savings to building your own rods?
darn long leaders! you should quit usein' 'em... you'll fall out of the boat trying to land a fish one of these days.
Peanut
01-16-2002, 08:07 AM
Check the archives - there was a thread with this info a while back. Search "rod building" or something like that.
As for cost - I think that what you end up with is a high end blank and components for 50-60% of what they'd retail for pre-built. This will still be more than retail for low-mid range products.
derrek.
CANADIAN WALLEYE OPEN UP AND SAY "EH"!
Dave in Walker
01-16-2002, 08:45 AM
I like a 7 footer, for the reasons of the long leaders I use on Mille Lacs, I make my own and would try the 7 1/2 footer but it won't fit in my rod locker. Big Laker do you live in Minnesota? several good spots to get set up on rod building, my favorite is in Marine on the Croix, Wild River Distributing you can mail order and they are very helpful over the phone. Wherever you live if you do some investigating you should find a shop that can get you started
Dave in Mpls
01-16-2002, 08:49 AM
Hey, REW
Happy new year to ya!
For 75% of my rigging, I reach for one of my 7' St. Croixs in a Medium Lite Fast action. When the wind is really howling, I'll use the same rod action in a 6'6" length, as I feel it catches a bit less wind and increases the "bite" sensitivity.
Regards
Northernhawk
01-16-2002, 08:49 AM
I have a St croix PS7'6"MLF I use exclusively for riggin and I love it!
hammertime
01-16-2002, 09:06 AM
i think a lot of people are missing out on using a 9 or 10 ft steelhead rod for live bait fishing, has all the feeling one would want in a rod and the length one will love in fishing long leaders and i dont think any rod is better for slip bobber fishing. plenty of spline for them hogs and will give ya the feel of the slightest nip, you can really get down to the lightest lines for them spooky fish also with-out risking breaking line. they are long and this might take some getting used to but once you get that down, you might not want to use anything else for fishing live bait. i got two that i use for all my live bait fishing, dont think theres anything i havent caught on them. from big pike to the smallest perch, great ( fun )rods to fish with.
As far as blanks are concerned, I don't think that it is really much of an issue.
I have found that for rigging, the sensitivity and even weight is not such an issue as with jigging.
For these particular group of rods that I am building, I have simply sorted through a couple hundred 2nds of various manufacture, until I came up with some nice medium light blanks with a nice moderate action.
I really think that it is a mistake to use a rigging rod with a fast action.
I like the bend further back in the blank, with a bit softer tip - than would be the case for a good jigging rod, which works better with a fast or extra fast tip.
I counterbalance all of the blanks, before I start putting any cork on the handles, so that I can get maximum weight in the best spot on the rod - i.e. at the extreme butt of the rod. I use lead tape - that is typically 1 inch wide, and if I wrap it to about 3/4 inch in diameter, the rod balances about right. I then finish up the rest of the cork build up. When It comes time to turn down the handle, I typically turn the handle down to the lead - for the butt cap, and everything works out well. I have a perfectly balanced rod, with no external visable weight. Also all of the weight for counterbalancing is in the last inch of the rod, for maximum leverage.
Your comment on the hot shot rods from Loomis is right on. I have built and used a couple of them, and they do make an excellent rigging rod. As I said earlier, although they are excellent rods, I don't know that you have to spend that money for a rigging rod, to get excellent results.
If you have a good rigging rod, with the right action and soft tip - you will watch the tip, and get most of your strike infromation from the bend in the tip. You get a bit of information, from information coming down the blank, but if the tip is soft, and the action medium light, much of the bite information is going to be absorbed in the movement of the tip and line stretch, and will be damped out as far as feeling it in the handle.
One of the other folks comments about the use of 9 or 10 foot rods work well. However, I do have to agree, that if the wind is blowing, the shorter rods work very well.
As far as your comments about the steel head rods, I think is right on for a rigging rod. A typical steel head rod had a nice parabolic or moderate action and works extremely well as a rigging rod. Also Loomis's "trout" rods also work very well, in the shorter lengths, as do their "spinning" series of blanks. These 'trout" rods have a moderate action, with a softer tip - yet still have plenty of backbone for getting the fish.
Thanks for the updates.
REW
p.s.
I built three steelhead rods, that several of my friends and my self used for rigging last year - that were in the 8 foot length, and as long as the wind wasn't howling - worked quite well.
Reels
01-16-2002, 07:47 PM
7'er would be my vote with a fast tip.
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Mattman
01-17-2002, 04:45 AM
Thanks
Better to have and not need than to need and not have!
Matt Davis
Mr. Sauger
01-17-2002, 04:25 PM
REW,
I'm very happy with a 7'6'' IMX custom spinning rod. It originally was built as a steelhead rod, but its my go-to rod when riggin for wallys. The only thing I might change is to reduce the length of the handle (between the reel and the butt) so I won't have to hold the rod away from my body so far.
Mr. Sauger
Bob G2
01-18-2002, 06:16 AM
REW,
I think you may have looked into this, but it appears that "popping rods" made for saltwater fishing, primarily targeting sea trout and redfish", may come as close as you can to ideal. Their length, typically 7'6", some 8', can be what you appear to be leaning toward.
Their action is typically a soft tip with good backbone into the butt section.
Steelhead rods are inviting, but I have trouble with the sport end of it. While the length might be useful, they can be a little strong to get a good fight out of a walleye with it. And while one can use a short noodle style rod, they sometimes have a little to much bounding in the blank going on. For a longer rod, perhaps looking at a flyrod blank might offer some potential. They are typically faster than a noodle rod, but, depending on what weight class it is, are not as "beefy" as alot of steelhead rods in a 8'range. Probably a fast 6-7 weight would be ideal.
You did comment on price factors, especially referring to Loomis blanks. I believe that St.Croix now has popping blanks available, also All Star Rods produce quite a number of reasonably priced blanks in longer sizes.
Good luck and have fun building.