Spinning Rods

[DD]

Two seasons ago I broke a medium light action rod which had been used for lindy rigging and pulling spinners with lite bite bouncers, 6-2 fireline in 10-30 feet of water. Guys I fished with thought it was too light of tackle, but I had good luck with it. When it broke I switched to a medium action rod of same length and seems like I've been in a slump ever since.

Any opinions on what my next rod should be?

[buzzer IA]

Hey DD,
Well, I'll get back up on my stump for my favorite spinning rods and see what everyone else thinks..I use Bass Pro Shops Bionic Blades for both spinning and casting rods..The new models are IM-8 graphite and have super Fuji hard-alloy guides..They come in a variety of lengths and weights, but for your application, I'd try a 6'6" medium action spinning model and either make or buy a rod balancing set-up..They really do increase sensitivity and make the rod "float" in your hand..Really great for all day fishing, and won't get the "fisherman's elbow" quite as bad..
Try one..You'll like 'em!!!
Tight Lines,
buzzer

[Peanut]

Buzzer - can you explain a little bit more about these rod-balancing set-ups? What are they, where can you buy 'em?

derrek.

CANADIAN WALLEYE OPEN UP AND SAY "EH"!

[eyedoktr]

Peanut, on page 44 of the new Bass Pro Shops Spring catalog they have a nice drawing showing how they work. The price is $6.99 or three for $17.97.

[Peanut]

Thank You!

derrek.

CANADIAN WALLEYE OPEN UP AND SAY "EH"!

[Cangl]

DD to light of action for superlines may not be a problem if you are not to upset with results vs broken rods. Fact is less fish tearing loose will result in more fish some days especially with following and nipping fish.

[Homer]

You can make your own rod balancing system at a fraction of the cost of the commercial ones. Go to your local department store and look for replacement rubber 'end caps' that are used on things such as ironing boards. Depending upon how much balancing weight you need, you can use either quarters or lead (hammer some old sinkers to size). For some of my rods, the end cap fits perfectly; some require electrical tape to anchor it. Works like a charm for me.

[Box]

Buzzer, those are great rods. And they have the buy two-get-one-free deal again, although the price has jumped on them. Probably since they went to im8.

I found that even lighter rods, medium-light, seem to work better for detetchin those bites with bouncers. My bro has one we call the noodle (a Berkley Series One) that is just fantastic for light lindy rigs and even heavier bouncers. Every fish feels big, but you can feel bottom so darn good its hard to beat.

-Box

[REW]

I think that you have figured out the answer to this one.
Go back to a medium light rod, with a bit slower action.
The slower action works very well indeed for rigging and bouncing.
As long as your bouncers are 1/2 oz or lighter - you will be just fine with this action rod.

Most of my friends all used to fish with medium action rods. Now the overwelming favorite for all types of walleye rigging is either a medium light rod - or even a light action rod, if you are split shotting or running lindy rigs that are in the 1/8 or 1/4 oz range.

Often going to a 7'6" rod makes quite a difference as well. If you use a longer rod, the runs that a fish makes will be absorbed in the bend of the rod.

Take steel head rods for example - often lengths to 9 and 10 feet - running a 2-4 lb tippet - and landing 10-15 lb steel head in current.

If it weren't for the length and soft tip of these rods, this wouldn't be possible.

The key thing is to not set your drag too tight, and be ready to drop the rod tip at the boat to give the fish its head. Never, never, never use a rod to lift the fish into the boat. Many rods are broken this way. A rod was never designed to be used as a lever. You will often see bass fishermen using this technique to flip some fair sized bass into the boats, during the tournamnet fishing shows. However, these folks are typically using large hooks, and line that is in excess of 12-15 lb test. Also the actions of the rods are in the medium heavy to heavy action rods.

Either hand lip the fish, or use a net to boat the fish and save the rod. Also keep the rod out of doors, trunk lids etc. and the rod will last much longer.

I had gone through the same thing you are going through several years ago. I had gone to a gradually heavier rod, until, I suddenly noticed that I was missing fish. I then went back to my lighter action rods, and the fish came back.

Take care and good luck

REW

[eek]

I would agree with REW on this one, I have found that the one rod I always go back to, for almost anything is the Loomis SJR 943. It is 7' 10" long and has plenty of power for almost any Walleye fishing situation. This rod is only available in GL2 material, which is the lowest grade, but in this model, is fine for everything from planner boards and bottom bouncers to all but the smallest jigs and rigs. They call it a 1 power rod, but you sure could believe it a 2 or 3 once you have used it. Also as a GL2, the price is very good, and also GL2 is the toughest material the Loomis makes.

I would not ever again buy any of the Bass Pro rods as I have broken 2 of their top end Pro-Qualifier rods, both of which were refused warranty repairs as they were over a year old. I have several other Bass-Pro rods and am almost afraid to use them.

eek

[marcbodi]

Hi,
I can tell you what I use and think you should use but I think you have the answer.Only you know what the right feel for you is.Do what works for you.If you do better with a medium light rod than rip some lips with it.