slip bobbers

[reddog111]

I have the dum question for the day. What is used on the line above a slip bobber as a stopper? Will a couple of knots in the line work? I have never used one of these bobbers but they seem to be quite popular.

[perchjerker]

They have stoppers made for the purpose. I find the best ones are little rubber ones that are real thin and will slip through your guides easily but still grip the line. One tip is wet them before you put them on and when you adjust them so the line doesnt cut them

Some guys use a knotted string, but I never liked them.

[T Mac Mt]

go to
http://www.cabelas.com
then type in "bobber stops" in the "keyword" slot over on the left side search.... click on "go".
Pictures will come up. The rubber ones are best (IMHO), as PJ said.
You can find these at places that sell slip bobbers, not just at Cabela's.

[eyewinder]

If you tie overhand knots in your fishing line to use as stops, you'll weaken your line considerably -- expecially mono.

[tbomn]

I make and use the knot type. I do because I also use them for quick change sinker/bottom bouncer clevises. If you are interested in how this is done or exactly what I am talking about, send me a private message(a privilage of registration gives you)

[Gary_IA]

I use the pretied knots then a small bead then the bobber then a small split shot or barrel swivel about 16 inches from the hook or small jig. I like the floats with the "slip-in-lock" offered by Gapen's. The slip-in lock is a small sleeve that you can open to take the float off, push up to fish as a fixed float or adjust to allow the line to slide freely until it meets the line stop. I just bought a couple of Night Lite Floats (glow stick on top) with the slip-in-lock feature. For further info: www.gapen.com

[ICEFISH]

Actually, while using flourocarbon mainlines tying overhand knots are about the only method for using slip bobbers. IMHO, mono is the only line for slip bobbers. It is important to wet all slip bobber knots before adjusting them on your line. Friction can weaken and cut your line if you don`t. I have used the rubber ones and they work OK. I prefer the string ones on the straws because I can buy a 50 pack and sprinkle them throughout the tackle box so I can always find one. They work great in the shack also. Good Luck

[moon]

http://home.mchsi.com/~joshbjork/bobber.jpg You can buy the knot or tie it. I steal my wifes embroidery thread that she winds up on little spools and use that. It seems easier than other schemes and I can rig up faster.

Knowledge is power.

[SL Duck]

Get some rubber bands and cut them in strips.Just tie an overhand knot with the rubber band onto your line. They slide but will grip the line to be used as a stop.Put a plastic bead on and your bobber. Place a barrel wight on the line and tie on a barrel swivel to the end of the line. Tie on a 3 to 4 foot length on fluro and your hook and you are good to go. You will find that the barrel weight will get your line down and will cast easier.

[Pitts]

I use dental floss it is cheap and a small pack goes a long way.
You can also use thin rubberbands but they deteriate in the tackle box so a fresh supple at least 3 X a year is in order 1 overhand knot is all that is needed.

With the floss I just tie overhand knots about 3X in the same place to make a knot big enough where it will not go through the hole in the bobber, rubber bands need only 1 knot. I leave long tag ends so the knot can be tightend at any time.
I like using the bobbers that have a groove in the stem with a slit in the bobber body to allow easy on off without retieing that way you can cast cranks with that rod, or with a slip on weight the same rod can be used for rigging.

I also like the bigger bobbers and enough weight so the bobber is still floating but not very high in the water.
When fishing in big waves to much weight will make the bobber go under on every wave and a bite might not be detected so experiment with different conditions.
With too small of a weight and fishing deeper water like over 15' the line will go very slowly through the bobber and your offering may drift off the top of the rockpile or ledge you were trying to fish before the bait gets down to the desired depth.
After every fish that is caught it is wise to check your desired depth because with a heavy pull on the line the knot can get caught on the tip of the rod and change depths without you knowing it. A yardstick or a fish measurer mounted on your gunnel or any flat surface is a good way to do this or if you know the length of your outstretched arms you can use that method.
To reduce this problem just tighten the knot with the long tags that were left or replace the knot.
Good luck with using one of the best methods for kids and adults to catch many eyes:)


Pitts

[hooky]

I use the pre tied knots and they work fine. It is better if you leave about a quarter inch of string next to the knot in case you have to re tighten the knot.

[reddog111]

Thanks guys.

[Scott Richardson]

Three types of stops are avaiable. The best all around are the pre-tied one made of thread. Take your time putting it on so that it is formed right. Don't trim the tag ends. You need them to re-snug the knot. Keep supple with a bit of vaseline. The thread type are best because they do the least damage to the line.

Plastic ones may damage line but they have their uses. They are quick and eaasy to put on. Ditto for the rubber ones but they have to be matched to the size of the line or the friction will cut them in half and heat ruins them. Again, try a bit of Caseline.

Don't use the plastic beads. Use glass. Don't use split shot. Use rubber core sinkers whick also prevent line damage.

The above are thanks to Greg Bohn, a great guide in Minocqua, Wis., who authored a book on slip bobbering that is out of print. But you can try for a used copy on Amazon.com He is also in the process of writing a new version with updated tips and tactics.

Scott Richardson

[Catch-n]

There has been hundreds of times I have use a piece of a rubber band to make a "bobber-stop".... 'cause I either could not find my pre-made "bobber-stops" or was out of them.
Dozens of times.... that I have used a bit of rubber from a spinner bait skirt 'cause I had no rubber band!

This is a "quick fix" for a bobber stop, but works well in a pinch!

Try this while in the boat in deep water:
have your slip bobber rig all on an tied (except the stop-knot)... hook & weight/jig and bobber all on.
Open the bail and send the lure to the bottom. The bobber will slide up the line untill the lure/weight hits bottom. When the line goes slack and the bobber is on its side, reel up the slack till the pole tip is right next to the bobber. Feel for the bottom. Knowing that you are right on the bottom, set the rod down in the boat without reeling up.
Take hold of the line coming from your rod tip in your left hand. Use your right hand to make a simple single twist-loop in the line between your left hand and your rod tip (where on the line depends on how far off the bottom you want to be).
Go inside the twist-loop and bring the top line coming from your rod tip through the loop and pull the slack. Do not take the line below the loop.... as that will not work (his makes the slip-knot upside-down). Before you pull the slip-knot tight, place a bit of rubber band through the loop. Pull the knot tight, pinning the rubber in place. Trim the rubber bband so that it is large enough to work as a stop, but small enough to pass through your reel.
Done.

Upside... this proceedure takes me about 30 seconds to do. I usually just bite off the excess rubber.

Downside... is that the knot will not move or slide and is stationary. A strong hard pull, like a snag, may cut the rubber and defeat the knot. But... it works, and has done the job for me plenty of times!

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4db10b3127ccebf0e8dbb785a0000001610
Here is a simple graphic... call or email, if you have any questions.
Catch'n
Dave Hoggard
fishline@catch-n.com
507.202.0312

[Scott Richardson]

A thread stop is usually best isnt it? It doesn't damage the line. A little vaseline makes it water proof. If it slips, it can be reset easily and tightened by pulling the tag lines.

Use a depth finder weight from ice fishing to set depth. Clip it on, let it down to the bottom, reel the rod tip to the water surface and slide the stop to within a foot of the rod tip. The rig is not set to fish just off the bottom.

Scott Richardson

[orchard frank]

I like dental floss also, the mint and cinnamon is green and red, easy to see. Comes in handy if you take out some jerky for a snack.

[Cold Front Illinois]

I use the expensive thill boobers and at $1.50 each I hate loosing them while I fish out of my Pro V 1900 with a 200 hp Opti.

So, I not only put a bobber stop above the bobber, I also add another one (stop) below the bobber around the split shot that is 15 - 18" above my hook. It still allows me to reel all the way in, but when I break off from a snag or a toothy fish, I don't loose my bobber and all I have to do is add a new hook and split shoot and I'm good to go. No need to lift anchor and chase the bobber in the lake or river.

[Starfish]

I used to buy the pre-tied thread stops, but found a better way... buy a small spool of 20 or 30 lb fly line backing (dacron) and keep it handy. Whenever you need a stop, just take 6-12 inches of fly line backing and tie a uni-knot on your line with it, then trim off the excess leaving 1/2 inch tag ends (slides through the line guides easier). The beauty is you can tie it in the middle of your line if you want to mark a line setting (mark your lines at 100' or 120' or whatever for trolling), set a deep bobber stop without having to re-string your bobber (as in the suggestion for using rubber bands), add a second stop below your bobber, etc.

[eyewinder]

nm