Beads cutting leaders

[mrbreeze]

Really dumbfounded by something that happened this summer.

I was using cabelas pre-tied leaders. These are the 15# flourocarbon model. I have been using a combination of beads...some from Cabelas and some from the craft store. I had a few of my leaders break, and found out that it was from the beads slicing them up. Seemed to be that both the cabelas brand and the craft store brand did it.

I read on another board that some people "de-bur" their beads before tying the harnesses. Do any of you guys do that? And how?

I suppose the second and maybe better option is to find a source of beads that won't cut up my line...I'm looking for options there too.

Thanks

[Unlogged T-Mac]

Or just change to a good tough line for spinners. Like Trilene 12 or 14# XT.
Flourocarbon has it's uses but, personally, I don't like it for making spinners. Anyway...spinners aren't a finesse tactic where invisible line is beneficial...in my opinion.

I have trouble with Vanish (for example) breaking at snell knots...even with no beads involved.
However....I like it where I can tie a Palomar or Trilene knot to something (one hook, a snap, a swivel, etc)... for rigging and even as a leader for trolling cranks. Something where no snell is necessary.

[Ristorapper]

Deburr the beads. Here is how an attachment is made for ice augers to keep the sharp angles of the ice from cutting your line. Use something like this to deburr your beads.

I have seen where an attachment to your ice auger once it has made it through the ice will then cut the bottom of the ice at a 45 degree angle to lessen the likelihood of break-offs when you are bringing in a fish. Great idea but does anyone use it?

To deburr your beads use a drill bit that is slightly larger than the hole in the bead to form an angle similar as explained above. May need a vice or pliers to hold the bead; may be time consuming but maybe what you are looking for.

[ebijack]

i used three different type lines in #20 and all have the same problem. i use many differrent brand beads and it happens with each make. i just check my line above the hooks often.. i tye on the water when one combination seems to be producing the best. i have WAY to many beads to debur them and don't want to spend to do so (but that's me). thought about using braid but it's not stiff enough for me (holds the line out straight better in turns etc... and those catfish (who says they are bottom feeders) distroy every harness they bite on..

[capt hook]

Are you sure the beads are cutting the line? Are you using a metal clevis or plastic. Metal will cut line. Also if you are not using a good ball bearing snap or barrel you could be getting twist that will stress the harness to the breaking point. Also, if a fish is going to hit a harness with all those beads a big old blade and a crawler trailing the whole thing, line size don't matter much.

[ebijack]

for me i'm sure.... just slide your beads up the line and see/feel for yourself. took me a few lost fish till i figured out what was happening. maxmum,spider supermono,XT all had the same results.

[RANGER]

I tie hundreds every year and I have not had this problem! ebijack, I'm sorry to hear what's going on with your lines, I'd be ticked too.

Anyway, I use Cabela's beads and Joann-Fabric (craft stores in our area) beads and they work for me! I will tell you that I won't have anything to do with flourocarbon line anymore due to really BAD experiences I have had with knots breaking/slipping and the slightest nicks breaking as well, plus "Memory" issues.

The lines I use for my harnesses are Stren "Walleye", both the clear and the pale green and Fireline. Sometimes Trilene "XTs" too.

[mrbreeze]

Thanks for the responses guys. Yes, clearly it is the beads and not the clevis. I can push the beads up the line and there is a nick on each side of each bead. I've been making it more of a habit to check them regularly and will re-tie on the water if I need to. I may try to run some out of XT for the heck of it. Maybe flouro is just too brittle, I have thousands of beads and I just can't imagine taking a drill to them, but I'm sure it would work.

[RANGER]

I have THOUSANDS of beads too and, like you, I can't imagine running a de-burring tool or a fine drill through them. ;-) I'd be committed!!!

[Ristorapper]

Ok lots of beads; let's give this another idea. Dremil tool. Lock head into vice w/ 45 degree angle sanding bit, lock the tool on on and touch each bead hole into the sanding tool and repeat, repeat, repeat............

[walleyedrew]

I quit using cabela,s beads a long tme ago .THERE HIGH PRICED TRASH!!Try net craft out of ohio or stamina out of MN. They both have cat, web sites,and toll free numbers.

[FAT_ CAT]

I haven't had any durability problems with harnesses I've made. I think the keys to durability are as follows:1)use a tough 20#+ line like would be recommended for bass fishing in rocky areas (stay away from flourocarbon as visibilty is not an issue), 2) use plastic clevises rather than steel, 3) be sure and place a very small bead on either side of each clevis as this helps to isolate the larger beads from the rotation of the clevis and keep the clevis centered on the line. No main bead rotation - no durability problem.

[mrbreeze]

Sounds like a plan. I had not thought of keeping the beads isolated from the clevis with a small bead. I will do that.

[borigini]

USE SEED BEADS FOR BEARING UNDER THE CLEVIS, THAT HAS DONE AWAY THAT TROUBLE FOR ME. SEED BEADS ARE FIRED GLASS AND SMOOTH INSIDE AND OUT. HOPE THIS HELPS.

[FAT_ CAT]

Good idea. Sounds like this product is a good way to implement what I had suggested. Do you have a source for these beads?
FAT CAT

[borigini]

ANY CRAFT STORE WILL HAVE THEM---ABOUT 1 DOLLAR FOR 200 BEADS, AND COME IN COLORS TOO. ASK FOR SEED BEADS AND THEY HELP YOU FIND THEM