Jiffy auger won't stay running

[Fishbomb]

I got my 3 hp Jiffy auger out to get it ready for the season. Put new gas in it and it started right up and runs fine but as soon as it burns up the gas the primer bulb has provided to the carb it starts to die. If I pump the primer bulb it keeps on running. Does the diaphram in the carb have a hole in it? The vent in the gas cap was open. Thanks

[PJM]

Fishbomb


Augers tend to sit for a long time ing the summer months and I would probably have to sat that the diaphram if probably getting hard and does on pump gas as well. I bet it has a Tecumseh and I would replace the needle and seat along with the diaphram and it should run fine

[bountyhunters]

maybe a little sea foam would clean it up? before you take it apart.

[yarcraft91]

Yep! Treat the gas with Seafoam. Get it running, then spray some Deep Creep (Seafoam in a spray can) down the carb. Let it sit for an hour, then start again and see if it runs better. It can't hurt anything and it's lots simpler than rebuilding a carburetor.

[AllenW]

Also if your gonna store this thing with gas in it, buy some non oxygenated gas for it, it will store much better and a bit of seafoam or sta-bil will work wonders in the gas

Al

[REW]

Many of the smaller engines have a fuel screen in the carb. This is a very very very fine mesh screen, that is used to filter particles out of the fuel.

If the engine has been sitting for a long time - with non treated gas - and sometimes with treated gas; the gas evaporates and in some cases - leaves this screen completely filled with goo from the gas residue.

The only clear fix is to pull the carb apart, pull the screen and either clean or replace the screen.

On other cases, it is simply a matter of having the dried goo plug up some of the very tiny passeges in the motor.

----------
The problem with trying to get sea foam or any other cleaner into the motor to clean it, is that no gas is flowing so there is nothing to carry the cleaner to the spots that are plugged.

One thing that I have done on ocassion, is to disconnect the gas line from the carb - spray carb cleaner into the hole going into the carb. Then, use a high pressure air hose, to push the cleaner through the carb. There is a small risk, that you will rupture the pump diaphram when you do this, but if it is cold and want to get the engine started - this will often work for you.

The best solution - is to pull the carb - take it apart - soak it in carb cleaner, blow out all of the passages in the carb, and put it back together. Then, always keep fuel stabilizer in the engine to avoid future incidents of this type.

Also, at the end of the season - turn the motor upside down and drain all of the gas out of the tank. Then, start the motor and run it until the carb is completely dry. If there is no gas in the carb or lines, there will be nothing to evaporate to cause future issues.

Take care
REW

[Fishbomb]

I always use stabilized gas and drain the tank at the end of the season. I already did the SeaFoam thing when I started it up, that's why I'm thinking it's the diaphram. It runs great as long as you pump the primer bulb a few pumps every 30 secs. I'm no small engine mechenic but isn't that the diaphrams function? To act as sort of a suction fuel pump? Somebody told me once that those rubber diaphrams can dry out and get a small crack or get a pinhole in them that cause them to lose their suction seal. Just wondering if anyone has found that to be the case. Thanks and have a very Merry Christmas !!

[Prowler]

I had the same problem with my 3 HP Jiffy last week when I was getting it ready for some hard water fishing. Same problem as you had, would only run for a couple of seconds on the primer. I finally completely removed both needle valves, after checking their turns open setting from close, and sprayed carburator cleaner directly into the needle valve seats. I replaced the needle valves in their respective seats, with the same number of open turns. Gave it a couple of pumps on the primer and away it went. I think that the needle valves just get a bit clogged up. After that, just a bit of fine tuning on the low speed jet and it worked great.

Craig

[REW]

As the following post suggests, it is likely that you simply have a matter of gunk in the passages that need to get cleaned out.
The thing that is happening when you pump the diaphram is that you are incareasing the pressure in the carb. The increased pressure is forcing gas through passages that are paritally blocked.

As the next poster suggests, pull out both needles, spray carb cleaner in both and reinstall the needles.

You may need to "tweak" one or both of the needles to get it to run correctly.

If you have partially plugged passages, sometimes, you can get it to run ok, if you slightly open one or both of the needles.

When everything is running correctly; you may likely have to close down one or both of the needles in order to get both the low and high speed settings to run correctly.

Take care
REW

[Fishbomb]

Okay guys, that's what I'll try first. Saved me a trip to the lawn and tractor place I hope. Thanks again!

[MrEyes]

Fishbomb

I have a Jiffy 3HP Stealth. I had a problem with the auger last year (2nd year) I could never get the thing to start/run right even the 1st year. I took it to a authorized dealer and they replaced the Carb. Then I could still not get the darn thing to run right. It would run good when it was cold, then when it got warm out the engine would not stay running. I found out that the 3 HP models are VERY sensitive. When I had the Carb replaced the repairman dialed the carb in for 50 degree weather. I finally called the factory and talked with some techs. They told me the 3HP engines are sensitive but when they get dialed in watch out! I spoke with one of the factory techs who walked me threw the setting's on the auger and now my 3HP Jiffy Stealth runs like a CHAMP! To make a long story short call the factory.....1-800-344-0712

Mark

[ankorklankor]

I never drain the tank on my augers, had my Mag III for 10 years and only had to replace the diaphragm once. I upgraded to a Laser 3 years ago, got it out of the shed at the beginning of the season and 3rd pull I was drilling holes. It's my belief that if you drain the tank the diaphragm can dry out and crack. If you keep it immersed in fuel that doesn't happen. Just remember to use stabilizer and proper gas/oil mixture.

[Fishbomb]

I pulled out the two needles, sprayed carb cleaner in them, put them back in the proper # of turns. It ran better, so I did it again and this time I tilterd the auger so the carb cleaner would run straight out of the holes towards the floor. Put the needles back in and she runs great. Thanks guys, now we just need some colder weather!

[yarcraft91]

That's certainly my favorite kind of engine repair :-)

[Labs]

"pulling out the needles"

Is there an easy way to explain how to do this? Thanks for any guidence you guys throw into this repair as my auger has the exact same symptoms as mentioned above.

Happy New Year!

[Fishbomb]

Sure, with the auger propped up straight turn it so the carb is facing to the right. There are 3 screws on this side. The upper most screw is the idle adjustment. The 2 screws that are almost side by side are the needles. Turn each one in until they just seat,no more. Turning the right screw on my auger to seat was 1 1/4 turns for example.You want to note this for each one so after you remove them you know where to put them back in so they will be adjusted the same as they were. After you remove them and spray carb cleaner in them, put them back in and run them down until they just seat and them back them out how ever many turns it took to seat them originally. You should be all set. Good luck.

[Labs]

Doesn't sound too bad. Thank you for the help.

Happy Holidays!

[Heff]

How many turns out do you guys have on the two needles? It seems like I get a good idle/bad transition or a rough idle/good transition all the way to full throttle.