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Peanut
02-18-2002, 03:04 PM
Based on some good reviews of these last year, I bought a bunch of them on the weekend. However, a few questions:

1. What color(s) seemed to be the "hot ones"?

2. Must you troll real slow with these, or do they just allow you to go slow and still have 'em spin/wobble?

3. Is there a "quick-change" method, or do you need to tie a rig for each blade? It would seem that they must run right on the line without a clevice - is this right?

Thanks as always

derrek.

CANADIAN WALLEYE OPEN UP AND SAY "EH"!

Fshngyd
02-18-2002, 03:26 PM
I love the smilie blades, in 2001 about 90 percent of my bottom bouncing had the smilies on them, I had alot of luck on the chartreuse color, but also did well on the pink. The thing that I liked about them is you can really slow down your presentation, and they still spin and wobble very nicely. They worked great for me last year, and I think that they will do the trick again this year, in your waters its hard to tell, but they are definitely worth having in your arsenal. As far as quick change goes, I dont know of anything for them, but I have not looked either, if you find something that works let me know, and yes they run right on the line, so you will need beads to the front and back of the blade. Good luck!

FROGMAN
02-18-2002, 03:30 PM
The "Hot" colors are going to be different for whatever area you are in. I would say that if you are fishing waters where the Walleye are keying on Smelt as the main forage that you should try the blue's, and silver's. Of course you also have the choice in sparkle, or scale patterns.

You definitely need to slow your trolling speed down with these lures. If not you run the risk of tangles, but going slow with these blades is what makes them so effective in the first place.

To make it easy to change blades I tie the end of the leader (either my own, or the pre-tied) in a surgeon's end loop. This way you just pull it through the hole in the blade, and put a different one on. A surgeon's end loop is made by doubling your line for about 6', and then tying a double overhand knot. Be sure to moisten well before snugging down on the line. This way you can snap them on & off a bottom bouncer real easy as well. Good Luck!

Keith Segar
NPAA #260

FROGMAN
02-18-2002, 03:34 PM
Do not put beads in front of the blade as this will hinder the true action of the blade. One little trick is to make sure the first bead behind the blade is just big enough to keep from slipping through the hole, but otherwise as small as you can get it. This will help make it spin more freely. Tight lines.

Keith Segar
NPAA #260