jigging vs lindy rigging

[Sutsgold]

I am inexperienced with lindy rigging. When does lindy rigging offer a better opportunity to catch walleye compared to jigging? I realize I am very naive when it comes to lindy rigging (please do not riducule) but could someone explain the technique to me. Thanks

[RANGER]

It all depends on the conditions of the day - i.e. they both work equally well depending on the conditions of that day!

If you have wind and chop, and/or s-l-o-w trolling the Lindy Rig is preferred! If the conditions are slack or the fish are sitting on the structure - jigging is the ticket.

Casting = jigging as well as cranks, in-lines, etc. depending on the bite!

I'm not trying to "play" with you but let the fish dictate the presentation! BUT! You have to be willing to change those tactics/presentations until you get bites! It can be a lot of work but that is Walleye Fishing!!!! NOT Bass!

:grd:

[Netminder]

>I am inexperienced with lindy rigging. When does lindy
>rigging offer a better opportunity to catch walleye compared
>to jigging? I realize I am very naive when it comes to lindy
>rigging (please do not riducule) but could someone explain the
>technique to me. Thanks

In a nutshell Lindy rigging is a finesse tactic that I use mostly for fish in a neutral or negative mood. Jigging is more of a reaction bite; the fish don’t get as good a look at the bait before they hit it. I use it more for fish in a neutral to positive mood or where there is a higher concentration of fish competing for food. As far as the technique of rigging goes I’m no expert but I use a G.Loomis WRR8400S 7’Med-Light Ex-Fast spinning rod & a Shimano Symetre SY1500FI Med-Light spinning reel spooled with 6# Silver Thread Excalibur. Start the rig with a light walking style sinker than a single bead (I like red or gold 6mm beads for this). Then attach a crane swivel and a 3’ to 7’ snell with a single #4 or 6 hook. Add a crawler, minnow or leach and your ready. Precise boat position is most often the key to good catches while rigging. Once you have your spot located let out you rig until it hits bottom. Do not close the bail, leave it open and hold the line on the very tip of your index finger (not at the first joint). As soon as you feel that light tap drop the line and feed it out as fast as you can. This will allow the fish to swim off without feeling resistance. After 10 to 30 seconds (sometimes over a minute is needed) close the bail and reel up the slack slowly until you feel slight resistance then set the hook and the rest should be up to the guy with the net! Like I say I no expert but this works for me. Try a search on the Internet for “rigging”, “live bait rigging”, or “Lindy rigging” and you will find a ton of articles. I hope this helps.

Netminder

"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself

"http://www.walleyecentral.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=101809

[Sutsgold]

because you let out line while lindy rigging do you guys feel that 10 # fireline is too much or too stiff? Do I need to use a monofilament with some stretch, or a smaller diameter line?

[Netminder]

>because you let out line while lindy rigging do you guys feel
>that 10 # fireline is too much or too stiff? Do I need to
>use a monofilament with some stretch, or a smaller diameter
>line?

The line I use is a copolymer line. It's extreme flexibility, and it has great abrasion resistance. It also has very little memory. I have not tried the super lines for this type of fishing but I think the copolymer and mono line would be less visible, and this method of fishing gives the fish a long look at the rig. You might try just making your snell with mono but I don't think you would need anything heavier than 6# fireline for the main line.

Netminder

"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself

"http://www.walleyecentral.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=101809

[RSH8]

I use the same rod & reel for rigging as for bottom bouncing with spinners. To handle the large sinkers for bottom bouncing, I like a heavier line. I use dark green 10 lb Spiderwire Stealth or Fusion on the main line, then mono or fluorocarbon on the snell.

I agree that color on the main line can spook fish. I was once fishing with my beloved wife in clear water, 20 ft down, bottom bouncing with spinners on 6 ft snells. She got 6 using dark green line, I got none using bright yellow line.

The trick of keeping the bail open so you can feel the strike with your index finger is also critical. In Canada this year I got twice as many hookups by releasing the line as soon as I felt a strike.

I would add that it is important to keep the bait off the bottom a little. Minnows will swim up, assuming they are still alive. I have heard that minnows will live longer if they are hooked thru the tail than thru the lips. For crawlers I would add a pill float just in front of the hook.



>>because you let out line while lindy rigging do you guys
>feel
>>that 10 # fireline is too much or too stiff? Do I need to
>>use a monofilament with some stretch, or a smaller diameter
>>line?
>
>The line I use is a copolymer line. It's extreme flexibility,
>and it has great abrasion resistance. It also has very little
>memory. I have not tried the super lines for this type of
>fishing but I think the copolymer and mono line would be less
>visible, and this method of fishing gives the fish a long look
>at the rig. You might try just making your snell with mono but
>I don't think you would need anything heavier than 6# fireline
>for the main line.
>
>Netminder
>
>"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live
>long enough to make them all yourself
>
>"http://www.walleyecentral.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=101809

[bw]

I think of Lindy Rigging as a more simpler form of jigging. For example, rigging is an easier system to learn for beginners like kids because there is more of a chance to hook the fish on a rig(where the walleyes often suck it in and gently pull on the line) than a jig. Until you learn the subtlety of a jig, live bait rigging is easier in my opinion.

I use Cabelas' E-Z change clevises so I can quickly change the weight of the sliding sinker based upon conditions(depth, wind)without cutting the line and re-tying. Simply slide the clevis on the line and then slide a small bead on as well. Tie on a barrel swivel(the bead acts as a buffer and keeps the sliding sinker from slamming into the knot of the barrel swivel). And then tie the leader onto the other end of the swivel. Cabelas sells the leaders in 6 ft lengths and 1,2 or 3 hook snells. I usually cut it to a length of 3 ft, with a larger leader preferred for cold front conditions. You can even add bead or 2 to the leader just above the hooks as an attractant.
I catch 75% of my walleyes on this simple rig. Hope this helps some.

[Sutsgold]

How many of you guys using a rigging system use a floating bead? Do you use the no snag banana sinkers or a standup type of weight? Does it matter?

[Sutsgold]

How many of you guys using a rigging system use a floating bead? Do you use the no snag banana sinkers or a standup type of weight? Does it matter?

[Old Guide]

Lindy rigging will still produce when "they ain't bitin".

[DLK]

Somedays on the line feed they drop it. when you feel the tap just sweep your rod toward the fish till it starts to tighten then stick em.

[pryan0225]

Very interesting reading. I have a question on boat control that is so critical for successful 'rigging.

With a 16' ft. "wheel boat", how do I get the same control as with a tiller? Can I move slowly about with a bow mount electric motor? I only have the big engine in the back.

Can someone explain boat handling techniques.

Thanks in advance. You input is truly appreciated!

Pat

[pryan0225]

ttt

[Burr]

>Very interesting reading. I have a question on boat control
>that is so critical for successful 'rigging.
>
>With a 16' ft. "wheel boat", how do I get the same control as
>with a tiller? Can I move slowly about with a bow mount
>electric motor? I only have the big engine in the back.
>
>Can someone explain boat handling techniques.
>
>Thanks in advance. You input is truly appreciated!
>
>Pat

When the water is flat, no problem gaining the same slow moving control. When the wind picks up, it is harder to keep the same 'very slow' control as backtrolling. What I have done to slow things down to the 'hover', or next to 0 mph speeds is to throw a drift sock off the back of the boat, and pull forward from the bow. This technique does settle the boat in the waves, and staples you right where you want to be. To do this, I'll suggest the biggest trolling motor available - the more power the better.

[DLK]

When its really rough its very difficult to run the bow mount a kicker or a big transom electric on your wheel boat.