Drift socks

[Open Season]

I have a 20' Yarcraft boat (glass) and wonder what is the best approach for drift socks? One big one out the back when trolling with kicker, or two smaller ones on the sides up front. Normal wind days the kicker or electric more than do the job. But when it's one of "those days" they are not enough to slow down and a bag seems like a requirement. Any thoughts? Thanks! Open Season

[freespoolin]

I use 12 pair of size 12 socks on a line with clothes pegs. Seems to work.

[Jim Carroll]

For the ultimate control when forward trolling, try this system:

http://www.lindylittlejoe.com/fishing_tips/drift_control_tips/trolling_drift_bags.shtml

Two 30" Wave Tamers will get the job done for you!

Jim Carroll NPAA #13

[REW]

Jim,
That looks like a great idea.
By the way, could you drop me an e-mail outlining the deploying and retracting of the bags?
The writeup on the attached link is slightly confusing.

REW

hflier@comcast.net

Take care

[REW]

Jim,,
A point of clarification on the use of these Wave Tamber Trolling bags during trolling.

My understanding of the system is as follows:

1. For boats uner 100 hp use 2-30 inch wave tamer bags.
2. For boats over 100 hp, use 2-40 inch wave tamer bags.

3. In either case, each bag is tied to a loop that is 14 inches above the keel toward the gunnel. i.e. one port tied off bag and one starboard tied off bag at a point that is midships and 14 inches above the keel.

fine.
The problem I have is when I read and try to understand the deploy and retrival of the bag.

The web pages stressess the importance of having both loops of the rope tightly tied to the cleats before deploying the bags. If the bags are run through the overhand loop and if the rope is tight under the boat midships - I don't believe that the rope would be able to be pulled back up over the bow for deploy or retrival.

--------------
I completely understand the concept and I think that it is brilliant and I am sure works well.

--------
I just wonder, if the web site would better read as follows>
1. Leave one end of the rope permenantely fixed to one of the midships cleat. Use the one that is more convenient from which to stow and depoly the bags.

2. Leave the bags affixed to the overhand knots in the rope that will be run under the boat.

3. When deploying the bags, run the rope over the bow of the boat so that the rope will run under the boat and run through the opposite cleat. Deploy the bags and as the boat drifts over the bags, tighten the rope to insure a tight loop under the boat.

4. When retreiving the bags, I wonder if one just wouldn't just loosen the rope from the long side of the rope, and then pull the rope from the fixed loop side of the boat, retreiving the bags?

-------------
5. If one were to use bags which had a retreival rope at the end of the bag, and if the support straps going to the bags were long enough and if you were running a short distance - one could simply grab each retreival rope, pulling the bag over the side of the boat, leaving the under hull rope in place. Obviously, if you were going to make a high speed run, you would want to clear the underside clutter on the hull?

---------
I just want to make sure that I completely understand the system, and insure that I get the control that you and Johnny have designed into the system, yet still make the system as user friendly as possible.


Thanks again.
REW

[Speedy]

Shouldn't there be plenty of slack as the boat is narrower at the bow than under the cleats? The forward motion of the boat after the bags are deployed should pull them tight under the cleats. I think?:-)

[REW]

Speedy,
I think it depends on the design of the boat. Some boats have a more pointed bow than other designs.

That is part of my question about deploying and stowing the bags.

In the lund web site - there is no mention of retreiving the bags - by backing the boat up.

That was realy my question, if you leave the side loops attached, and if you do have a tapered bow and if there is enough slack to deploy the bags - then would it make sense to back up the boat to loosen the rope and pull the bags back up over the bow?

---
In the web site picture, there is a feeling on my part, that if the rope is pulled very tight, that even backing the boat would not loosen the rope enough to retreive the bags.

That is why I asked the question of Jim, if one really doesn't need to loosen one end of the under hull rope to retreive the bags.

REW

[Speedy]

REW: Very good questions now that I think about it a little more. It says on the website that putting the motor in neutral will give enough slack to pull the bags in.:confused:

[Jim Carroll]

REW...Excellent questions, I'll do my best to answer them.

I do not deploy my bags exactly like what is written in the article, it's closer to what you have written. Every boat is different, and I've found that this method is what works best for my boat.

1) I have a permanent loop tied in one end of my line that I slip around my port side bow cleat. This stays fastened until I put the bags away at the end of the day.

2) To deploy, I drop the bags over the bow holding the loose end of the rope. On my boat, I need to make sure the rope doesn't catch on the bow eye.

3) I quickly move back and secure the loose end of the rope to the starboard side bow cleat as the bags begin to fill. Your goal is to get the rope tight and straight underneath the boat, from cleat to cleat.

4) To pull the bags out of the water, I reverse the procedure. I unwrap the loose end of the rope from the starboard cleat and walk it up and around the bow of the boat. Once I clear the bow, I can easily pull both bags over the port side gunnels.

If I'm just pulling them up to make a move, I lay one bag on top of the other and roll them together starting from the small end, then wrap the loose rope around the bags, and tuck this bundle under my port gunnels. The loop at the end of the rope is still fastened to the left side bow cleat. When you get to the next spot, simply unroll and deploy again.

It takes me about 15 seconds to get the bags in the water when they are unwrapped and ready to go, it's very easy to do.

A couple tips. I prefer a soft, nylon rope for this system. I use "Stearns" brand soft dock line, and I make sure its cut short enough so it cant get tangled in an engine, in case I accidently drop the loose end of the rope in the water and the bags go back under the boat towards the transom.

I do not use the 40" bags. I've tried them on my 21' boat, and they are not necessary for what I need to do. The 30" Wave Tamers will scrub about 1.2 GPS off my boat when using my 250 HP Mercury. I can easily get down under .5 GPS running my 9.9 Pro Kicker, which is what I troll with 95% of the time. Unless you have a large inboard, I'd try the 30" Wave Tamers first. They should get the job done for nearly any size walleye boat.

There is no downside to using this trolling system other than increased fuel usage. The added boat control will make fishing a lot easier and more productive in tough conditions. The best way I can describe it is, it's like adding 4 wheel drive to your boat. Where you used to slide around and struggle, you can now point and hold the bow on a line in pretty much any direction you choose regardless of wind and waves. It takes a lot of the wave surge out of the boat as well and is just dynamite for pulling spinners. One trolling pass down a shoreline with a stiff side wind blowing in towards the bank will make a believer out of most, and for boaters running the mid-sized EFI 4-Strokes that need to slow down, this system is the BOMB. Forget those silly trolling plates, buckets, and tube socks (LOL), etc.

Jim Carroll NPAA #13

[REW]

Jim,
Right on.
The launch and deploy system is identical to what I would have done with the system.
Good description.

By the way, do you ever use this system when working with a bow mounted trolling motor?

Assumming that you rigged the bags so that they couldn't tangle in the trolling motor - I would assume that the bags would really tie down the bow of the boat in the wind.
Obviously, the bags would casue more current to be drawn by the motor, but it might make sense for intermittent use in the wind.

REW

[Frank S.]

I also use the system Jim C describes, very pleased with the performance, the added boat control is a real bonus along with the speed reduction. On the rigging, I do have a loop in both ends, but the line is plenty long enough to go around and over the bow. After I have it in the water, I adjust the length of the starboard side to tighten it up. I have the ends color coded with liquid tape so I know left from right, also an indicator to let me know I'm tight enough. I fish alone quite a bit, having both ends secured helps keeps me out of goof-ups. Does everything mentioned, plus even improves the ride by keeping the bow down, good for us old guys.

[Ted Takasaki]

For trolling applications where you want to reduce your speed and gain better control of your boat in cross winds, the twin bag trolling system is absolutely the best there is. Especially if you do not have a small kicker motor. Even if you do have a kicker motor, the bags directly under the boat allow better control and maneuverability.

I was amazed when I tried the twin bag trolling system at how easily the boat responded immediately to my changes in direction. Since they are under the boat and you cannot see them, the advantage to having two Wave Tamers under the boat is that you KNOW that the bags open and deploy correctly due to the spring based opening.

I like to put one larger drift sock tied directly behind the boat when I am using my bow mount trolling motor while pitching jigs or crankbaits to shoreline structure. Especially when the wind is blowing too hard to slowly troll against the wind. This slows my boat down effectively and makes it much easier to control my casting distance to the shoreline. I'll also use this system if I am working bottom bouncers/spinners or live bait with my bow mount.

Hope this helps,

Ted Takasaki

[grub]

I was just thinking (sadly) I didn't have anything to buy before I hit the water this spring. Now, I can go get my trolling bag system! Sweet!

Thanks for the perfect explanation. I think that even I'll be able to make this work. And I "HATE" the lack of boat control in the wind!!!

Grub

[Dave Q]

Boy thats funny timeing I had just emaild Jim with a few questions, THANK YOU Jim...but I was still not clear on the deploy / retrive. but my questions are now answerd. Well almost.. I will have to check.. but on my 17'lund explorer if the rope is long enough to go from port cleat to starboard cleat under the boat,Im thinking it would be long enough to get into the prop (only 17'boat) if it was tied to just one cleat? this would only happen by accident,worst case senerio.?? again thanks to Jim C. and REW.

[Crankbaiter]

Along those same lines as the above post I have a question for Jim.
It appears from the photos that by using the two cleats as described the socks end up approx. in the middle of the boats lenght axis.

Not to doubt anybody but just from an enginnering point would it not work better if those socks ended up more towards the front of the axis? Seems like it would even make the bow deflection issue less as opposed to a central "anchor" point.
I am wondering if the described method is used simply because of the location of the cleats or if you tried it with the socks in a more forward position and did not like it?
Thanks

[Crankbaiter]

"I like to put one larger drift sock tied directly behind the boat when I am using my bow mount trolling motor while pitching jigs or crankbaits to shoreline structure. Especially when the wind is blowing too hard to slowly troll against the wind. This slows my boat down effectively and makes it much easier to control my casting distance to the shoreline. I'll also use this system if I am working bottom bouncers/spinners or live bait with my bow mount."

Ted, Im not sure I understand you. (Happens a lot with me) are you saying when your pitching off the front of the boat and the wind is in your face (comming at you) you still put a sock out the back to slow you down even though you are bucking the wind?
Thanks

[Open Season]

Thank you guys for sharing your methods and the wave tamer. It looks like the best way to go!

[REW]

Ted,
Perhaps you could have the Lindy web site updated with slightly more clear instructions on the deploy and retreival of the dual bag - bow mmounted system.

Although the information is there, the explanation of deploy and retreival is a bit fuzzy.
Thanks much
REW

[REW]

Dave,
I expect that you are right.
A good thing to not let happen, since I expect that it could happen even with a 20 foot boat if one end came loose especially with both drift socks still deployed and if the big motor was still running - I rather expect that you would end up with ropes wound up in the prop.

Just a good thing to not let happen.

As several of the other posts suggests, keep one side fixed, and then if you are moving the socks in any way - make sure that your motors are turned off and in gear, so that the prop is NOT turning and will not tangle a rope or bag, even if the loose end of the rope slips out of your hand.

Take care
REW

[REW]

As a point of interest -
I was reading recently that the folks who had made the original wave tamers and leech lockers in Tracy MN have apparently closed their doors due to competition.
There was mention at that time that they were considering selling their patents - in particular the patent # 6135046 - which is the patent for their unique drift sock.

After reading this and since it appears that Lindy is now selling the bag, I assume that Lindy has purchased this patent and its inherent manufacturing and distribution rights?



Take care
REW

[Fishboy2]

After reading the instructions on Lindy's website and all the comments here I'm still confused! Here's some items of confusion I need clarified for use of the system on my 18ft Sylvan bowrider.

1. First concerning the article and pictures on Lindy's web site.
The first picture shows the rope and bags tight to the curved portion of the keel as if the rope is tied off to the front cleats. The next picture shows the rope further down the keel and resting on a flat portion of the keel. Now my boat does not have mid ship cleats but only front and rear cleats. So if I used the front cleats on my boat I think it would be more like the first picture. As one poster said that from an engineering stand point that closer to the bow would be better. So I'm confused by the two different pictures!

2. The article says to have the line tied off tightly and to keep it tight. Now how can you pull the bags out it the line is tied off tightly?

3. I have a 115hp outboard on my 18fter and like the idea of smaller 30" bags as opposed to getting the 40inchers not only for price but for storage once I figure out how to use the system. Do you think the 30 inchers would be OK for my rig?

4. Is there any thing "magic" about having them tied 14" from the center of the keel?

Maybe all this will make more sense when I get my boat out of storage and try setting up the system. Sure sounds interesting and I'd like to give it a try.

Fishboy2

[Fishboy2]

I just reread all the posts again and Jim Carrol's post #63857 now makes more sense to me, but still somewhat confused. Oh well what else is new for me?

Fishboy2

[eyestopper]

I have been watching and listening to this thread. I have been using bags on Erie for two years, and I would never deploy them in the way you are suggesting. Just to complicated with no added advantage. I have cleats on each side of the boat just ahead of the windshield, and two at the rear of the boat. Two ropes on each bag, one on the front of the bag goes to the front cleat. Another rope to the rear of the bag goes to the rear cleat. Front rope length should be no longer than needed to open. Rear rope should be just long enough to allow the bag to work freely, but should keep the bag in place at the side of the boat. Make your loops just big enough that you have to work them on to the cleat. To deploy just put them out, they will do the rest. To retrieve pull the rear rope in, too simple. Takes two minutes to deploy and even less to retrieve. I only troll, I have never had a bag get in the way.

[Ristorapper]

Dave, REW, others: How about a little safety factor built in so that IF one end or the other comes loose, the system does not get into the prop.

I would run another rope (safety rope) from the center of the system to the bow eye. A pre-measured length of rope with a clip to the bow eye should do it. When we get it mastered like Jim Carroll, we could skip that part. He's got it figured out. We just need to work with it safely before we can trust it. Not that we don't trust Jim, its just never wanting to get that stuff tangled in the prop.


Dry tie everything up on the ground. Run the system under the boat. Get everything centered where you want it and then cut that safety rope to a length to keep the bags/rope out of the prop should something give way. Again the safety rope should run from the centerline of the two bags to the bow eye. Either cleat gives up one end of the rope, no danger of getting the system in the prop.

[Jim Carroll]

The ideal location for the bags would be at the axis on which the boat turns. That will give you the perfect combination of improved directional control along with added speed control.

On most boats that turning axis will be located back approximately 1/3 of the length of the boat from the bow. Most bow cleats will be in that general area.

Of course boats vary in design and cleat location, but the bottom line by me is that all the feedback I've received from guys trying this system has been pretty positive regardless of boat brand.

Jim Carroll NPAA #13


>Along those same lines as the above post I have a question
>for Jim.
>It appears from the photos that by using the two cleats as
>described the socks end up approx. in the middle of the boats
>lenght axis.
>
>Not to doubt anybody but just from an enginnering point would
>it not work better if those socks ended up more towards the
>front of the axis? Seems like it would even make the bow
>deflection issue less as opposed to a central "anchor" point.
>I am wondering if the described method is used simply because
>of the location of the cleats or if you tried it with the
>socks in a more forward position and did not like it?
>Thanks

[Jim Carroll]

The ideal location for the bags would be at the axis on which the boat turns. That will give you the perfect combination of improved directional control along with added speed control.

On most boats that turning axis will be located back approximately 1/3 of the length of the boat from the bow. Most bow cleats will be in that general area.

Of course boats vary in design and cleat location, but the bottom line by me is that all the feedback I've received from guys trying this system has been pretty positive regardless of boat brand.

Jim Carroll NPAA #13


>Along those same lines as the above post I have a question
>for Jim.
>It appears from the photos that by using the two cleats as
>described the socks end up approx. in the middle of the boats
>lenght axis.
>
>Not to doubt anybody but just from an enginnering point would
>it not work better if those socks ended up more towards the
>front of the axis? Seems like it would even make the bow
>deflection issue less as opposed to a central "anchor" point.
>I am wondering if the described method is used simply because
>of the location of the cleats or if you tried it with the
>socks in a more forward position and did not like it?
>Thanks

[Jim Carroll]

I'll try and clarify this for you as much as I can.

1) The pictures were taken at the same time. If you look closely you will see that the bags are located in the same place on both photos- look at the trailer crossmember. The goal is to get the bags as close to the turning axis of the boat as possible.

2) I like my rope tight under the boat because this is the way I set up my bag location initially, when the boat was on the trailer. If the rope isn't tight, my Wave Tamers will be off center. This is why I use a slightly different method than what is listed on Lindy's site and walk the bags around the bow of the boat, drop them in, then secure the loose end to my starboard cleat as the bags fill and drift back. The "yoke method" on Lindy's site could also work, but I didn't set mine up that way because the rope would be loose under the hull given my bow cleat locations and their distance to the bow.

3) 30" bags will slow you down 1-1.5 MPH GPS

4) That is the minimum distance to keep the bags apart. I set mine up so they are located 1/2 way between the keel of the boat and the chine line (the bend where the side turns to the keel).

Best of Luck this season...

Jim Carroll NPAA #13

[Jim Carroll]

I'll try and clarify this for you as much as I can.

1) The pictures were taken at the same time. If you look closely you will see that the bags are located in the same place on both photos- look at the trailer crossmember. The goal is to get the bags as close to the turning axis of the boat as possible.

2) I like my rope tight under the boat because this is the way I set up my bag location initially, when the boat was on the trailer. If the rope isn't tight, my Wave Tamers will be off center. This is why I use a slightly different method than what is listed on Lindy's site and walk the bags around the bow of the boat, drop them in, then secure the loose end to my starboard cleat as the bags fill and drift back. The "yoke method" on Lindy's site could also work, but I didn't set mine up that way because the rope would be loose under the hull given my bow cleat locations and their distance to the bow.

3) 30" bags will slow you down 1-1.5 MPH GPS

4) That is the minimum distance to keep the bags apart. I set mine up so they are located 1/2 way between the keel of the boat and the chine line (the bend where the side turns to the keel).

Best of Luck this season...

Jim Carroll NPAA #13

[Jim Carroll]

Actually, there is a big advantage in directional control to be gained by using the Twin Trolling System, I've tested both. A lot of the big boats on the Great Lakes use the system you describe, and it works just fine for slowing those boats down.

But realize there is a significant difference between using the bags close together, near the keel of the boat, versus bags on the surface of the water, separated by the width of the boat. The Twin Trolling System creates a pivot point on which the boat will turn. Also the bags are very efficient in that they are always in the water, out of the way under the hull, and not subject to surface wave surge or turbulence created by the hull. Imagine driving at stake through the keel of your boat, this is the axis the boat will turn on because of the bag location near the keel.

Simply tying bags off the side of your boat on the surface will not give this effect. For Great Lakes trollers, who mostly point there boats straight down wind and go, that's fine, but I'll tell you that the Twin Trolling System will allow you to turn your boat, hold a line, and follow contours regardless of wind direction a whole lot better.

Good Luck this year, I wish we were going to Erie...

Jim Carroll NPAA #13

>I have been watching and listening to this thread. I have
>been using bags on Erie for two years, and I would never
>deploy them in the way you are suggesting. Just to complicated
>with no added advantage. I have cleats on each side of the
>boat just ahead of the windshield, and two at the rear of the
>boat. Two ropes on each bag, one on the front of the bag goes
>to the front cleat. Another rope to the rear of the bag goes
>to the rear cleat. Front rope length should be no longer than
>needed to open. Rear rope should be just long enough to allow
>the bag to work freely, but should keep the bag in place at
>the side of the boat. Make your loops just big enough that you
>have to work them on to the cleat. To deploy just put them
>out, they will do the rest. To retrieve pull the rear rope in,
>too simple. Takes two minutes to deploy and even less to
>retrieve. I only troll, I have never had a bag get in the
>way.

[Jim Carroll]

Actually, there is a big advantage in directional control to be gained by using the Twin Trolling System, I've tested both. A lot of the big boats on the Great Lakes use the system you describe, and it works just fine for slowing those boats down.

But realize there is a significant difference between using the bags close together, near the keel of the boat, versus bags on the surface of the water, separated by the width of the boat. The Twin Trolling System creates a pivot point on which the boat will turn. Also the bags are very efficient in that they are always in the water, out of the way under the hull, and not subject to surface wave surge or turbulence created by the hull. Imagine driving at stake through the keel of your boat, this is the axis the boat will turn on because of the bag location near the keel.

Simply tying bags off the side of your boat on the surface will not give this effect. For Great Lakes trollers, who mostly point there boats straight down wind and go, that's fine, but I'll tell you that the Twin Trolling System will allow you to turn your boat, hold a line, and follow contours regardless of wind direction a whole lot better.

Good Luck this year, I wish we were going to Erie...

Jim Carroll NPAA #13

>I have been watching and listening to this thread. I have
>been using bags on Erie for two years, and I would never
>deploy them in the way you are suggesting. Just to complicated
>with no added advantage. I have cleats on each side of the
>boat just ahead of the windshield, and two at the rear of the
>boat. Two ropes on each bag, one on the front of the bag goes
>to the front cleat. Another rope to the rear of the bag goes
>to the rear cleat. Front rope length should be no longer than
>needed to open. Rear rope should be just long enough to allow
>the bag to work freely, but should keep the bag in place at
>the side of the boat. Make your loops just big enough that you
>have to work them on to the cleat. To deploy just put them
>out, they will do the rest. To retrieve pull the rear rope in,
>too simple. Takes two minutes to deploy and even less to
>retrieve. I only troll, I have never had a bag get in the
>way.

[Crankbaiter]

Thanks for the good answers Jim
I cant wait to give it a try

[Crankbaiter]

Thanks for the good answers Jim
I cant wait to give it a try

[eyestopper]

Jim, maybe a different situation, I would do things differently. I am very fortunate, and probably very spoiled, to have a ramp on lake Erie only 5 miles from my home. The only place I fish anymore. I troll some pretty tight figure 8's and the bags help greatly in boat control. You can leave the helm for a bit to net fish, as long as you don't dilly-dally. I first used the bags to slow down, now I use them all the time for boat control.

[Fishboy2]

OK, I think I understand-so much so that I've ordered 2 -30 in. Wave Tamers. It will be around Memorial Day before I get a chance to try them out.

Fishboy2

[REW]

Jim,
Thanks for your comments to me on the "welting material" used to stiffen the edges of the drift socks.

I received my shipment of Welting material this morning and will be modifying my socks this afternoon on the commercial machine that I have in the shop.

I expect that this addtion will take care of the saggy opening on the bags.

Take care
REW

[peter8]

Great information everyone. I to will be setting up a 2 bag system for all reasons mentioned. Can't wait to try it, Thanks again!!

[Fishboy2]

OK, I've got my 30" Wave Tamers but haven't set the system up yet. I have a few question mainly about how you deploy them but first here's how I plan on setting them up.

I'm planning on setting them up while the boat is on the trailer. I plan on using the method that Jim C uses: deploying them around the bow with one end attacher to a cheat and then, while hanging on to the loose end and going around the bow, attaching the line TIGHTLY to the cleat on the other side. Seems like having them tight is the way to go

Sounds good so far. Now when taking them out of the water is the part where I'm not sure. I understand that you reverse the procedure(i.e. taking the loose end off the cleat and walking the rope around and taking them out). Now my question is what happens to the water that's in them? Do you use the extra ropes tied to the small end of the wave Tamers, as suggested in the Wave Tamers instructions, to let out the water out or just let the water drain out through the small end?

One other problem that I can envision on my boat is that my bow mount TM may interfere with walking the rope around the bow. Any thought if this will be a problem?

I'm trying to visualize my set up and possible problems before I get on the water. Any help or comments would be most welcome.

Fishboy2

[DW]

Question: in order to simplify the system, would a single sock centered at the keel work as well as dual socks?

[WIPP]

I have used the 2 30 inch bags after reading about it on this site. I have been using them for 3 or 4 seasons now and they are as great as others here have said. I mainly use them to slow doewn my 90 hp 4-stroke, and I usually pull bottom bouncers and spinner rigs. It is a great way to fish with kids, too. I drive the boat and look for fish and the kids just hold the rods. Took my son and his friend last summer to Mille Lacs, first walleye the friend ever caught was a 27 incher using this system.
Bags are easy to deploy - takes 10 - 15 seconds. I leave one side tied, loop the other around the bow and secure to other cleat. Reverse procedure to pull in. I don't use my bow-mount motor nearly as much now, and I don't need to spend the money on a kicker. One of the greatest tips I ever read about on WC!

[Crankbaiter]

WIPP

Do you rig yours similar as far as location of the two socks Approx 14" off center of the keel?

[WIPP UL]

Yes - I followed the directions on the website and marked the spots in the rope with a marker - a little challenging with the knots, but I got it all to line up. Just do it while the boat is on the trailer in the garage. I made a loop in the one end I attach to one cleat before I did the measurments so the bags always in the same place. I can't remember if it was exactly 14 inches, but I just tried to center each one between the center keel and the edge of the boat.

[Ted Takasaki]

REW,

One of these days, I am hopeful to meet you in person as I have followed your posts on this website for many years. I believe that everyone on this website appreciates your comments and advice. I just got back from the FLW Lake Erie tournament and have been unable to check this thread until now.

To answer your question about patents on the Wave Tamer drift socks... Lindy acquired all of the assets of JNB a little over 2 years ago which included the patents. Since then, Pradco has acquired the assets of Lindy-Little Joe, again, acquiring ALL of Lindy's patents.

The Wave Tamer drift socks are truly excellent socks due to the spring biased opening (patented). They open up easily and are the best for this twin bag trolling system due to knowing that these socks will open up every time since you cannot see them under the boat.

The twin bag trolling system as has been explained in this thread is truly remarkable as it gives you control of your boat that cannot be achieved by attaching socks to your boat in any other manner...period. I've tried them all. The twin socks under the boat acts like a stake driven through the center of your boat and the boat reacts immediately to your change in direction in addition to slowing your trolling speed.

My objective this spring is to video tape a segment which we can edit and show, step by step, how to measure, deploy and stow this system. We will hopefully have something to add to our website by this summer. This should make it clear to anyone as to how to add this unique system to your boat control bag of tricks.

Thanks again,

Ted Takasaki

[Ted Takasaki]

Crankbaiter,

To clarify...

When the wind is blowing too hard to use my bow mount trolling motor against the wind and I have to drift along the shoreline pitching jigs/cranks or pulling bottom bouncers, I then put a larger drift sock on my transom. This slows my boat down considerably and "anchors" the rear end of my boat. I then use the trolling motor with quick pulses left or right to keep my boat a suitable distance to cast to shore. The drift sock anchors the rear of my boat to keep it from swinging back and forth in addition to slowing it down.

If the wind is relatively low, I'll slowly troll with my bow mount against the wind... no drift socks.

I use the twin bag trolling system when I am contour trolling structure and using my kicker motor. It is very effective for those who don't have a kicker motor and want to slow down and stay at a specific depth or a specific distance from shore for casting.

Hope this helps,

Ted

[Dave G]

As “DW” asked in an earlier post to simplify the system --- would a single sock centered at the keel work as well as dual socks. I expect one bigger sock (40”) instead of the two smaller socks (30”) would be needed. Would the steering control still be about the same?

Dave Gulczinski

[perchjerker]

I think that would make your boat want to go in circles.

You are never going to have it running true directly under the boat, it will always be to one side or the other.

then with the motor pushing the boat, it will want to try to pivot the boat around the sock.

[Dave G]

Perchjerker,
Thanks for the reply – It does make sense for V-hulls boats, if using just one sock it would want to stay on either side of the keel (not in the center) and turn the boat. Although for a flat bottom Jon boat, you may be able to get by with just one sock. But since most of us on this forum have V-hulls, or semi V-hulls, two socks would be the way to go.

Dave Gulczinski

[Ristorapper]

One of the most frustrating times I can recall is trolling with a single sock off the bow eye. First time I tried it and may not have done it as one should have(inexperience). The bag may have been on a little too long of a line as it would constantly roll from one side of the bow to the other and at the helm I'd constantly have to adjust the steering to adjust for the sock position. Or maybe I should have had it on a longer line to keep it on one side of the boat.

Needless to say with the amount of time I spent steering (non hydraulic) I didn't have much time to fish!! I was wore out at the end of a couple hours and swore I'd never do that again, and haven't.

This two bag system sounds like the cats meow; it's proven out on the tourney trail and I'm sure drifted down to the weekend angler as well. Sounds like a few more of us need to invest in some soft rope and a couple quality bags.

[Fishboy2]

I'm getting ready to dry fit the 2 bag system while still on the trailer. Instead of just tying knots I was thinking about trying loops at at 14" and then using some clamps to attach them. This way I could use the bags for multible purposes like off the back or sides when needed. What made me think of this is that I don't have a cleat in the appropriate place but my bow rail ends in what I thing is a good place to tie it off. So I could use a removable clamp there also.

Any thoughts by those that have used tis system?

Fishboy2

[Wettail]

With the many wrapped boats and expensive finishes on todays walleye boats, has anyone experienced any problems with the lines from the cleats rubbing on the sides of the boat in rough water and wearing the finish on the boats?

[REW]

Fishboy,
You can tie knots and use hooks to tie on your bags. However, I would be a bit worried that the clamps might bang on the sides of the boat and mar the finish.

----------
If you use the double braided nylon lines, and have bags using the webbing for bag attachment, there should be -- i.e. should be -- little or no marring of the boats finish.

Avoid the use of metal or a hard finished rope to help preclude marring of the boats finish.

Take care
REW

[Jim Carroll]

I've done a lot of trolling using this system and had no problems with the boat wrap or finish on my aluminum boats. The key is to find a soft line.

Some of the best line I've found is Stearns Solid Braid MFP Dock Line - 3/8 x 20ft with a spliced-in loop.

The loop is nice because it gets you started on one side. You may need to shorten the line, depending on how wide/long your boat is, to keep the loose end out of the engines if you accidently drop it.

Jim Carroll NPAA #13


>With the many wrapped boats and expensive finishes on todays
>walleye boats, has anyone experienced any problems with the
>lines from the cleats rubbing on the sides of the boat in
>rough water and wearing the finish on the boats?

[Fishboy2]

Thanks REW for mentioning the clamps banging on the boat. I thought of that but now I will forget about using them.
Fishboy

[Fishboy2]

Now I'm ready to rig the bags mounted 28" a part and I have the center marked at the middle.

Now I have two places to secure them on my 18.5 ft boat. I don't have cleats at the right place so I'll have to rely on the bow rail and supports.

So on my 18.5Ft bow rider my bow tie up point are at 11.9ft and 14.6ft.to tie them to measured from the back.

So does it make a difference it the bags are set up high(nearer the bow at 14.6.ft) or back some what at the 11.9 ft near the center).

Boat is still on the trailer so I can adjust.
Fishboy

[Jim Carroll]

My guess is that the 12' point would be best. Deep V's typically turn on an axis about 1/3 back from the bow. The best way would be to test both attachment points if you can to see which one is better on your individual boat.

Jim Carroll NPAA #13