I just purchased a new 1783 Warrior with a 90 hp Yamaha 4-stroke. When there are very small rolling waves (still a glassy look to the water) and I am going 25-35 mph trimmed up, the front of the boat will occasionally start bobbing up and down. This continues until I trim it down. Is this normal or did I buy a boat that is out of balance? Perhaps too much weight in the back? The funny thing is, it doesn't consistently do this but once it starts it won't quit and actually gets boppier the longer I go. It takes about a half mile to get it started. Also, when the boat is trimmed up and I turn, the propeller cavitates and I lose speed while the motor revs up. Is it common for boat operators to trim down when doing turns or do I have the wrong propellor for the boat?

Markus2

Call Warrior and express your concerns and they should have a answer.

Sounds normal possibly, each brand handles a little different, take some time to get use to it, when I switched from a aluminum to glass boat to totally different handling boats, trim and effects are different.

So if you came from a 16' with 25hp yep it will be different handling

I just purchased a new 1783 Warrior with a 90 hp Yamaha 4-stroke. When there are very small rolling waves (still a glassy look to the water) and I am going 25-35 mph trimmed up, the front of the boat will occasionally start bobbing up and down. This continues until I trim it down. Is this normal or did I buy a boat that is out of balance? Perhaps too much weight in the back? The funny thing is, it doesn't consistently do this but once it starts it won't quit and actually gets boppier the longer I go. It takes about a half mile to get it started. Also, when the boat is trimmed up and I turn, the propeller cavitates and I lose speed while the motor revs up. Is it common for boat operators to trim down when doing turns or do I have the wrong propellor for the boat?

Sounds like boat is doing something called "porpoising". A given boat will do it at different speeds, at different trim levels, with different props, under different conditions.

It means your trim level is too high for the given set of conditions -- boat speed, prop, water conditions. The blow out on turns is another indicator that this is true.

The proper action to take is to trim the boat down until the porpoising action stops and then trim it up to just under where the porpoising was happening.

I experienced the same thing going from one stainless steel prop to another. My boat never porpoised with my Laser 2 prop, but will with my new Tempest Plus prop. But I kept and use the Tempest Plus prop anyway because it gets more of my boat out of the water, gets the boat on plane much faster, gives me about 1 mph more GPS at full throttle, and has nearly eliminated blowout during turns. The Laser 2 never got enough of my boat out of the water even at very high trim to have it porpoise -- even with the trim high enough to experience blow out on nearly every turn.

Solutions? Run at a little less trim during "porpoising" conditions for your setup or maybe change props. I don't know enough about your setup to suggest another prop -- but your dealer and boat manufacturer and maybe some other posters here should.

2Labs

What kind of boat and motor are you running

Lower your motor one hole and that will help your problem.

You might want to have your hull looked at by a good dealer or the factory for flatness. I've seen some Al boats where the trailer bunks are not set up correctly so the hull flexes and causing the boat to porpose in the water. I had the same expereice with fiberglass if there is a flaw in the mold causing a lip which will get your boat to porpose.

This is not normal handleing in a boat.

2Labs

What kind of boat and motor are you running


Lund Mr Pike 18 dual console with 150 Opti.

Lund Mr Pike 18 dual console with 150 Opti.


Oh, and my motor is mounted one hole down from the upper mounting hole. I checked it after T-Mac said that is where they were mounting the same motor on boats they sold.

Install trim tabs on your boat. Nauticus trolling tabs are inexpensive, slow your troll and help your porpoising issue. They also usually improve your holeshot. Call Warrior and price them out. Problem solved.

There is likely nothing wrong with your boat. Depending on your setup and the prop you are using, your boat can porpoise at slower speeds with a lot of trim. If trimming down stops the problem, then do that. Also, instead of trimming down, throttle up; going faster often stops the porpoising. While you're running wide open, ensure your RPMs are within the engine's recommended range. If the RPMs are too low, you have too much pitch. This lugs the engine, and is also a cause of porpoising. As for the prop blowing out in turns, this may be normal also, especially if you're using an aluminum prop. If this is the case and you don't like to trim down for turns, look into getting a steel prop with some positive rake and tip cupping.

I recently experienced the same problem with my Warrior. I did end up installing Nauticus Trim Tabs to solve the problem after Warrior suggested them. Warrior stated that my particular boat "wanted to go fast and that it was normal to porpoise throughout mid-range", not an answer I wanted. I literally could not drive the boat at 30-40 mph without taking a beating in any water conditions. Seems to me that when you spend 40K on a boat it should run at any speed without accesories. At first I installed the trim tabs with 80lbs actuators, purchased from warrior only to find out after speaking with Nauticus that 60lbs actuators would be the better fit. Nauticus has been very helpful throughout the process.

Actually, if you feel that you need different shocks for your tabs, just give John a call at Natucius, and he will send out the shocks that you need.
Then, he will simply ask that you return your current shocks.

I went through this a couple of times, before I found the best shocks to fit my boat. I ended up with three different shocks and tried each out in different conditions and ended up with the best compromise and am happy with the result.

I then sent back the unneeded shocks at no cost to me except for shipping.
Great company.

REW

IAWARRIOR

Does your boat propoise between 30 and 40 mph with the motor trimmed all the way down, and what model boat and motor are you running ?

I agree with Boat Nut. It doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with your rig. You're just trimming up to high for the speed you are going. And it is typical to trim down for turns. Certain stainless props do not require trimming down as much in turns but most still require you to do that.

Moving weight around may also resolve some of the issues. But don't go installing trim tabs or messing with your motor setup until you have spent some time getting to know the characteristics of your rig. Making sure you are propped correctly and running in the Max WOT RPM range is the most critical thing to be concerned with for now.

PJM,

The boat is a 1898 with Yamaha 200 4-stroke. The boat would porpoise exceesively at any trim angle. The problem was fixed with the 60lbs actuators from Nauticus.

I would listen to Vikings Fan. He knows those boats pretty darn well.

I just purchased a new 1783 Warrior with a 90 hp Yamaha 4-stroke. When there are very small rolling waves (still a glassy look to the water) and I am going 25-35 mph trimmed up, the front of the boat will occasionally start bobbing up and down. This continues until I trim it down. Is this normal or did I buy a boat that is out of balance? Perhaps too much weight in the back? The funny thing is, it doesn't consistently do this but once it starts it won't quit and actually gets boppier the longer I go. It takes about a half mile to get it started. Also, when the boat is trimmed up and I turn, the propeller cavitates and I lose speed while the motor revs up. Is it common for boat operators to trim down when doing turns or do I have the wrong propellor for the boat?

It doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with your boat. When it starts to porpoise then your trimmed to high, And yeah its pretty normal to have to trim down at higher speeds when cornering. I'm running a warrior 2090 bt / 175 suzuki and it will porpoise when trimmed to high. Problem with my boat is there is no trim limiter when running wot like all my old mercs had and theres no trim gauge either, so always trying to max out that last mph you'll trim it to high and it will porpoise untill you trim it down to that sweet spot.

I am very interested to hear some other feed back on warriors new model 1783. How do you like yours?

Markus2
Warrior and 2labs have fixed your problem for you. lots of people trim a little 2 high and have to trim back down to stop porpising. Luch to U

I definately feel your pain. I have a Ranger 690 tiller with the same motor(yamaha f90), and I am experiencing the same porpoising issues. I think I have the right prop with a 16p stainless power tech, though I do wonder about the new Merc vengeance 15p(anyone try them yet??). With that said, I have alot of weight in the back of an underpowered tiller boat which is just the simple fact of life with a big tiller. I have tried wedges between my hull and outboard(I have alot of trouble with holeshot), weight distribution, etc. etc.

I think I am finally ready to pull the trigger and try the trim tabs as was suggested to you. I would really like to see a similar tiller boat with the tabs(I see they offer a 'pro tab' now.... anyone seen them??). I'd like to see how they are installed and adjusted. One thing I fear is having to drill alot of holes in my glass rig, moving transducers, yada yada, only to find out I did something wrong. If someone has a tiller rig similar to mine, that wouldn't mind taking some photos, and if within a few hours from central WI, I'd love to see how they work some time. also, if someone has tried a stabilizer fin or 'whale tail' on their outboard on a similar rig, please also list the results.

With that said, it is my belief that I should be able to run with my boat trimmed all the way up, once the outboard is mounted in the right position and propped correctly. Underpowered rigs like mine seem to need a bit more hook in the hull to give the stern a bit more lift, to acheive these results, and the trim tabs just might be the only thing that can afford this.

As a Musky fisherman, I really appreciate this site for the help people give in regards specific to boat setups. It is something one just cannot find, even on the best Musky sites.

I believe it is something in your setup or hull, call or take it back to your dealer and have them look at it, is this a brand new boat ? if so let them deal with the problem. there are many reasons that could cause porpoising and you can spend alot of time and money trying to fix the problem yourself. a brand new boat should not have issues like this and you should not be expected to deal with it.
as a side note, it sounds to me that your prop is not grabbing enough water to lift and hold the bow up and should not blow out on turns unless it is way over trimmed up. could be as simple as wrong prop on the wrong boat

I do not believe there is any issues with your boat. Play with the trim and spend time on the water you will learn what it takes to achieve optimal performance from your rig. Like I said all boats are a little different, learn your boat before you start spending money on unnecessary items.

Judging from your post this is your first boat.

Also, when the boat is trimmed up and I turn, the propeller cavities and I lose speed while the motor revs up. Is it common for boat operators to trim down when doing turns or do I have the wrong propeller for the boat?

Yes because as you trim up you are reducing the amount of your hull, gearcase and propeller that are in contact with the water and if you don’t trim down before you start a turn you will experience cavitation. In extreme examples you could experience violent porposing and under the right conditions, an unintended 180/360 turn, aka a wipeout, but for this to happen you'd need a lot more speed.

When there are very small rolling waves (still a glassy look to the water) and I am going 25-35 mph trimmed up, the front of the boat will occasionally start bobbing up and down. This continues until I trim it down. Is this normal or did I buy a boat that is out of balance? Perhaps too much weight in the back? The funny thing is, it doesn't consistently do this but once it starts it won't quit and actually gets boppier the longer I go. It takes about a half mile to get it started.

Your top speed is achieved when only the aft part of your hull is in contact with the water and your motors gearcase and prop are as far out of the water as possible. However, when carried to the extreme you will experience what you are describing. What I think you are doing is over trimming your motor in a quest for a slight increase in speed.

In order of priority, you could:

Contact Warrior directly to see what they suggest.

At the first indication of bobbling, trim down until it stops.

Move the motor down one hole which will keep more of your motors gear case and propeller in the water.

Experiment with different props, most probable a four, or five blade and/or a slightly larger size.

Guys, just an FYI. Mark and I have resolved his issue long ago. In the mean time, Mark won a tournament that had a really, really nice payout. Congrats Mark.

Warrior what was the final solution?

Guys, just an FYI. Mark and I have resolved his issue long ago. In the mean time, Mark won a tournament that had a really, really nice payout. Congrats Mark.

So if we had the right answer, contact Warrior, and Marks is flush with cash, where do we send our consultation fee bills?

I wonder what the problem was and how it was solved. It seems that a brandnew $40K shouldn't have those sorts of problems unless there is some driver error or other rigging errors. Height of engine, prop, trimming issues, etc. would seem more logical. If it's something just with that boat, I would think one could make wiser use of his $40K...

it is possible he loaded it up with gear etc and got it out of balance, maybe he didn't know how to trim the enging. he didn't say if he had experience with boats or if this was his first one, could have been most anything.
the important thing is warrior helped him out and took care of him, way to go warrior

I hope they are willing to share as I am considering the nautilas tabs myself and all the info we can share tends to shorten the process.

The main issue was overtrimming. We never really got down to it, but I suspected it may have been a load issue as well. The answer is Nauticus Pro Troller tabs. They seems to be a huge stigma in the walleye world with trim tabs. If you go out to the coast, you would be hard pressed to find a boat without them. Marks issue with tabs was just that. I convinced him that once he uses tabs, he will be amazed at what it does for the boat. They will get up on plane quicker, keep you on plane at a slow MPH and a lower RPM, and the best part of all with the Pro Troller tabs, they slow the boat down to pull live rigs. It makes the rough water ride even better. The tabs kind of make the boat act like it has shock absorbers, it is really amazing. For the record, Mark does have experience in boating. And this is not a 40,000.00 package. At any rate, for those that are willing to "step outside of and think outside of the box", the tabs do work in most applications.

As a side bar, Mark installed the tabs, and gave me a call. He was so happy, and could not believe the difference. That was a few weeks before the tourny. He went out and won the Minnewaska Classic in that same boat.

Troy

Warrior, thanks for the response.