EZ Loader JUNK

[ffishman]

Needless to say, I'm unhappy with my EZ Loader piece of JUNK. One more thing to add. I wanted to check my brakes. The trailer has oil bath hubs. In order to get the brake drum off, I have to drain the hub, and dissamable the whole thing. Is this stupid or what. To anybody out there thinking about buying an EZ Junker, STAY AWAY, NOTHING BUT A PAIN IN THE REAR.

[Burr]

I'm really happy with my EZ loader, their shocked suspension tows very nice.

The oil hubs are really pretty easy to pull and re-install, just make sure ya put on new seals anytime you pull a hub. Mine are all disc's, so I guess I don't have the same issue as you.

[mrwalleye5]

I have a '97 EZ ldr. The one thing that really burnt my butt was the lights. Instead of just having to replace the bulb you had to replace the whole light assembly. Did this once, then scrapped the whloe wiring harness and replaced with LED.

W5

[ffishman]

The oil hubs are really pretty easy to pull and re-install, just make sure ya put on new seals anytime you pull a hub. Mine are all disc's, so I guess I don't have the same issue as you.[/QUOTE]

Hey Burr, on mine the cap is clear plastic, and the brand name on them is Reliable. Are these the same as yours? I know that the cap unscrews, but, do you need a special tool. I called EZ and they said try a large channel lock. DOH!!!

[Brad1]

I guess I must of missed something. What problems are you having with your EZ Loader trailer?

I've had three of them and I never had any issues with the trailers themselves. Now, the dealerships that do not understand how to properly setup a trailer, that's a different story. But all-in-all, the trailers themselves have been decent.

[yarcraft91]

Needless to say, I'm unhappy with my EZ Loader piece of JUNK. One more thing to add. I wanted to check my brakes. The trailer has oil bath hubs. In order to get the brake drum off, I have to drain the hub, and dissamable the whole thing. Is this stupid or what. To anybody out there thinking about buying an EZ Junker, STAY AWAY, NOTHING BUT A PAIN IN THE REAR.

That sounds like a normal procedure for trailers with drum brakes. What's different about yours that you don't like?

[Brad1]

That sounds like a normal procedure for trailers with drum brakes. What's different about yours that you don't like?

I know exactly what ffishman is complaining about. I agree with him. It is a stupid design. In order to check the drum brakes, you have to drain the lube. If they were disc brakes, you wouldn't have to drain the lube to check the brakes. IMO, reliable tool shouldn't have even made that setup. I have it on my trailer and it is the only thing I don't like about my EZ Loader. One of these days I'm going to convert mine to disc.

But I'd still like to know what ffishman didn't like about his EZ Loader (other than that drum brake setup from reliable tool).

[Hot Runr Guy]

That sounds like a normal procedure for trailers with drum brakes. What's different about yours that you don't like?
I'm with Yarcraft, the 1-piece hub & drum is real common in trailer applications. This may be ffishman's first trailer w/drum brakes, so he may have been expecting a separate hub & drum like in cars and trucks. Many times, disc brakes can be specified as an option, if the buyer elects to not just accept what the dealer is trying to sell. Personally, I'm a big fan of EZ Loaders, since I can usually get an independent torsion axle, rather than leaf springs.
HRG

[ffishman]

But I'd still like to know what ffishman didn't like about his EZ Loader (other than that drum brake setup from reliable tool).[/QUOTE]

I bought this trailer, NEW. Any trailer has 4 major components. Wiring, brakes(surge), hubs, and paint. On my trailer, some of each were defective. When I picked it up, the wiring was shorted out, could not even take it home. Next, the first time I put it in the water, one of the hubs filled with water. Third, it was not stopping right. Found out the rod that pushes the brake cylinder was not even in the boot, just laying along side of it. Lastly, a month after I had it, it started rusting in spots. I had it back to the dealer many times to get things repaired. After many visits, they tried hard, but things were still not right. I decided to fix it myself. Redid the wiring, rebuilt the brake and pistons, fixed the leaking hubs, and on a brand new trailer, started touching up the paint. EZ loader charges top buck for their product, but they do not supply a top notch product. Hope this expains why I am uphappy. Like I said, I would not recommend anybody buying one.

[ffishman]

That sounds like a normal procedure for trailers with drum brakes. What's different about yours that you don't like?

I had a trailer, ESCORT, with drum brakes. It was the same as a car. You could pull the drum, and check the brakes, without messing with the bearings.

[KHedquist]

Yikes, sounds like a Spartan Trailer I had on 01 Lund, this is what they told me.Powder coat paint is suppose to bubble like that:boxing::censored:

[yarcraft91]

ffisherman:

Was your Escort trailer built on a rear axle from a rear wheel drive car or truck? If so, I understand what you're saying about the brake drums. However, drum brakes on boat trailers are like front drum brakes on pre-1970's cars, which do require dismantling the hub to pull the drum and inspect the brakes. If you haven't done brake work on a car from the 60's or earlier, you may never have seen such a brake setup.

[ffishman]

Albeit a pain to check the brakes, it should not be a problem. Brakes should last at least 25k miles. I don't see me towing my trailer that many miles. As long as the hubs look good, I will let the brakes go. I'll break them down and inspect them when I have to.

[Brad1]

I'm with Yarcraft, the 1-piece hub & drum is real common in trailer applications. This may be ffishman's first trailer w/drum brakes, so he may have been expecting a separate hub & drum like in cars and trucks. Many times, disc brakes can be specified as an option, if the buyer elects to not just accept what the dealer is trying to sell. Personally, I'm a big fan of EZ Loaders, since I can usually get an independent torsion axle, rather than leaf springs.
HRG

Agree that the bearings in the drum are the typical design. I have had that set up on several different trailers. But the difference comes into play when your dealing with that design and it's an oil bath setup as opposed to grease. With grease, you can just pull the drum and check the brakes shoes. Not so with oil bath. You first have to drain the oil. Then when your taking the drum off, oil can still drip on your brake assembly. Then after you put the drum back on, you have to refill the oil. Again, that's just to do brake inspections or deal with a brake related issue and not having anything to do with wheel bearing service.

[Brad1]

But I'd still like to know what ffishman didn't like about his EZ Loader (other than that drum brake setup from reliable tool).

I bought this trailer, NEW. Any trailer has 4 major components. Wiring, brakes(surge), hubs, and paint. On my trailer, some of each were defective. When I picked it up, the wiring was shorted out, could not even take it home. Next, the first time I put it in the water, one of the hubs filled with water. Third, it was not stopping right. Found out the rod that pushes the brake cylinder was not even in the boot, just laying along side of it. Lastly, a month after I had it, it started rusting in spots. I had it back to the dealer many times to get things repaired. After many visits, they tried hard, but things were still not right. I decided to fix it myself. Redid the wiring, rebuilt the brake and pistons, fixed the leaking hubs, and on a brand new trailer, started touching up the paint. EZ loader charges top buck for their product, but they do not supply a top notch product. Hope this expains why I am uphappy. Like I said, I would not recommend anybody buying one.[/QUOTE]

Genuinely sorry to hear you've had so much trouble with your trailer. I'd be PO'd too if I had that experience. Needless to say, it sounds like you got a lemon. Get on them about it and demand satisfaction. I've had to deal with boat manufactorers a couple times and you really got to poke the preverbial finger in the chest to get your what you've should got in the first place. It's a shame that it should come down to that, but sometimes it does. Good luck man.

[ffishman]

Thanks for the advice. I tried that. I called them over and over again. I said I got a lemon and I wanted a replacement trailer. They refused. All they kept telling me was to take it back to the dealer, and they will fix it. I hope this explains why I am down on EZ Junk trailers. Like I said before, Don't buy one, you will be sorry.

[yarcraft91]

Agree that the bearings in the drum are the typical design. I have had that set up on several different trailers. But the difference comes into play when your dealing with that design and it's an oil bath setup as opposed to grease. With grease, you can just pull the drum and check the brakes shoes. Not so with oil bath. You first have to drain the oil. Then when your taking the drum off, oil can still drip on your brake assembly. Then after you put the drum back on, you have to refill the oil. Again, that's just to do brake inspections or deal with a brake related issue and not having anything to do with wheel bearing service.

Brazd1:

I have yet to pull my EZ Loader oil hubs apart (no brakes to inspect), but I wonder how much more work it could be than greased bearings. Yes, greased bearings don't need to be drained when they are disassembled, but they should be cleaned and re-packed any time the brake drum is pulled. I'd think draining and refilling an oil hub is less work or mess than repacking bearings, but if you think differently because you've done both, I'll take your word for it.

As to dripping oil on the brake assembly, I don't see that as an issue, given how the hubs and brakes assemblies are built, but, again, I will defer to experience.

[perchjerker]

Brazd1:

I have yet to pull my EZ Loader oil hubs apart (no brakes to inspect), but I wonder how much more work it could be than greased bearings. Yes, greased bearings don't need to be drained when they are disassembled, but they should be cleaned and re-packed any time the brake drum is pulled. I'd think draining and refilling an oil hub is less work or mess than repacking bearings, but if you think differently because you've done both, I'll take your word for it.

As to dripping oil on the brake assembly, I don't see that as an issue, given how the hubs and brakes assemblies are built, but, again, I will defer to experience.

I have oil bath hubs on my drum brakes and have no issues at all servicing them. After you drain the oil, slide the drum off. I have never had and oil drip onto brake parts, any leftover oil that may be in the hub stays there because of the inner oil seal. And if any was to drip, it would just drip on the backing plate of the shoe (not on the friction material) and is easily wiped up or cleaned off with brake cleaner unless you were really careless. Maybe its just easy for me because I have been a mechanic all my life though...

I think the ease of maintenance and not having to repack the bearings every season far outweighs an minor inconvienences as this.

[yarcraft91]

PerchJerker- we are on the same wavelength here.

[Brad1]

I think the ease of maintenance and not having to repack the bearings every season far outweighs an minor inconvienences as this.

I agree. But the point I'm trying to make is that they very simply could've made it even easier by merely using a drum that is separate from the hub, or disc brakes. Either one eliminates the need to drain and refill the lube when inspecting the brakes. They simply stopped short of what should've been my requiring the lube to be drained and refilled.

Here in Pennsylvania, where trailer brakes must be inspected annually, some of these mechanics aren't familiar with the specific setup. In some cases, they might not know that the clear plastic dust cap is sealed and threaded onto the drum. They might not know what lube to use. They might not know the specific procedure for draining / refilling. And if your leaving your trailer to be inspected, you won't be there to make sure they do it right. Sorry profressional mechanics, but I have experienced way too many screw ups on the part of professional mechanics to have alot of confidence in them. If the reliable tool design used a drum separate from the hub, or disc brakes, it would not even be a concern.

[Hot Runr Guy]

I agree. But the point I'm trying to make is that they very simply could've made it even easier by merely using a drum that is separate from the hub, or disc brakes. Either one eliminates the need to drain and refill the lube when inspecting the brakes. They simply stopped short of what should've been my requiring the lube to be drained and refilled.

Here in Pennsylvania, where trailer brakes must be inspected annually, some of these mechanics aren't familiar with the specific setup. In some cases, they might not know that the clear plastic dust cap is sealed and threaded onto the drum. They might not know what lube to use. They might not know the specific procedure for draining / refilling. And if your leaving your trailer to be inspected, you won't be there to make sure they do it right. Sorry profressional mechanics, but I have experienced way too many screw ups on the part of professional mechanics to have alot of confidence in them. If the reliable tool design used a drum separate from the hub, or disc brakes, it would not even be a concern.
Brad1,
How I wish I could turn the clock back 35 years, when I worked at an auto parts store. Looking at the Reliable H-1000/HD(drum)-1000 series hubs, the basic hub & bearing area is identical. You could use the basic idler hub, and find an appropriate drum to fit. It's not rocket science, obviously you need the same depth and diameter, the only difference being that the wheels would be out an extra 1/4" or so, the thickness of the center section of the drum that slides over the studs. You make a great point, regarding the need for independent shops to be able to pull a drum easily and inspect. We don't have that here in IL. Of course, by the time you exchange your drums, you could probably convert to disc brakes.
HRG

[perchjerker]

I agree. But the point I'm trying to make is that they very simply could've made it even easier by merely using a drum that is separate from the hub, or disc brakes. Either one eliminates the need to drain and refill the lube when inspecting the brakes. They simply stopped short of what should've been my requiring the lube to be drained and refilled.

Here in Pennsylvania, where trailer brakes must be inspected annually, some of these mechanics aren't familiar with the specific setup. In some cases, they might not know that the clear plastic dust cap is sealed and threaded onto the drum. They might not know what lube to use. They might not know the specific procedure for draining / refilling. And if your leaving your trailer to be inspected, you won't be there to make sure they do it right. Sorry profressional mechanics, but I have experienced way too many screw ups on the part of professional mechanics to have alot of confidence in them. If the reliable tool design used a drum separate from the hub, or disc brakes, it would not even be a concern.

welll, if they are mechainics servicing trailers they should know. these things are not that uncommon, expecially for someone getting paid to do this.

And as far a a 2 piece drum goes, Im sure the reason they done use them is one of cost.

[Das Boot 3]

I have 2003 2800 roller EZ Loader. I wouldn't declare it junk, but I won't be buying another one.
1. Replaced R/H bearings and races at less than 200 miles - Bearing retainer nut was overtightened at factory and cooked them to a nice shade of blue.
2. Ordered roller guides from EZ Loader so they would match the off white color they painted the trailer. They were bone white and didn't not include any kind of mounting hardware. I had given them the color code and trailer serial number like they asked. When I called to complain and so if I could get a color matched set, they said they only come in white or black..and offered to sell me some mounting bolts. Should have saved $50 and ordered from Cabelas.
3. At one year the bearing seal gave out and puked grease into the brake drum - R&R seal and shoes.
4. At 2 years the trailer had more rust than paint.
5. At 3 years the catch on the winch ( the piece that locks the handle so it doesn't spin wildly and remove your chin and forearm) broke off - R&R winch and strap.
6. I've had to replace every light on it and half the wiring.
7. Brake wheel cylinder (R/H) failed - R&R cylinder and shoes
8. 6 months later the L/H brakes did a self destruct that involved a smoking stop, Surge coupler cylinder full of rust flakes - Removed brakes, backing plates, brake lines, and changed coupler.
My spring project list always has "fix trailer again". I'm glad that my boat and motor combo has been as reliable as the trailer has been PITA.
All on a trailer with less than 5000 miles on it...............Nope, won't be buying another EZ Loader

[yarcraft91]

Das Boot 3

Wow! That kind of experience would certainly turn me off their product!

I have a 1991 3600 lb EZ-Loader. Apparently, they made good trailers back then, as the only thing I've done beyond routine maintenance is replace the winch rope with a strap. When it's washed up, it still looks like new.

I also have a 2006 2000 lb EZ-Loader roller. It hasn't been quite as good as the 1991. Either the trailer frame isn't square and true or else my boat isn't, because I've been unable to adjust the rollers so the boat loads straight. It arrived with both taillight bulbs and one lens broken, also missing one of the channel-end plastic plugs. The dealer did a lousy job setting up the trailer, but I don't blame EZ Loader for that and it was all easy to correct. Other than that, 3000 miles of trouble-free towing, so my experience with their products has been much more positive than yours. Not sure what brand I'd want for my next trailer...

[Johnnielund]

If you're in the market for a new trailer, have a look at Prestiege. Except for the Ranger trailer with the anti chipping paint, Prestiege is the nicest BTV (that's Prestige for Boat Transport Vehicle) I've ever had. I never heard of them before I bought my Lund. My dealer suggested it, and I'm very happy with mine.

[Tim Ellis]

I have 2003 2800 roller EZ Loader. I wouldn't declare it junk, but I won't be buying another one.
1. Replaced R/H bearings and races at less than 200 miles - Bearing retainer nut was overtightened at factory and cooked them to a nice shade of blue.
2. Ordered roller guides from EZ Loader so they would match the off white color they painted the trailer. They were bone white and didn't not include any kind of mounting hardware. I had given them the color code and trailer serial number like they asked. When I called to complain and so if I could get a color matched set, they said they only come in white or black..and offered to sell me some mounting bolts. Should have saved $50 and ordered from Cabelas.
3. At one year the bearing seal gave out and puked grease into the brake drum - R&R seal and shoes.
4. At 2 years the trailer had more rust than paint.
5. At 3 years the catch on the winch ( the piece that locks the handle so it doesn't spin wildly and remove your chin and forearm) broke off - R&R winch and strap.
6. I've had to replace every light on it and half the wiring.
7. Brake wheel cylinder (R/H) failed - R&R cylinder and shoes
8. 6 months later the L/H brakes did a self destruct that involved a smoking stop, Surge coupler cylinder full of rust flakes - Removed brakes, backing plates, brake lines, and changed coupler.
My spring project list always has "fix trailer again". I'm glad that my boat and motor combo has been as reliable as the trailer has been PITA.
All on a trailer with less than 5000 miles on it...............Nope, won't be buying another EZ Loader

All this and you still aren't declaring it junk.... my gosh.

[Stormsearch]

There should be some comparison of the EZ Cusom trailer and their standard trailer division. I have an EZ Loader custom trailer for my Skeeter and after 8 years, it is holding up great. Only areas of rust are front fender and front part of trailer where rocks had chipped my paint. Didn't come with brakes, but the supplied "bearing buddies" never failed for 5 years, but I replaced them with Liqua Lubes 3 years ago. I just replaced all my wiring and lights 2 years ago, not because it needed but was preventative maintenance plus a chance to go 100% LED which is great.

From what I'm hearing, it sounds like to stay away from their basic trailer line. The two different trailers are made in separate plants.

[Dave Q]

the first ez I owned was painted and rusted a lot as the paint got chipped off and the lights did fail often. Now I own a galvanized ez with (cant think of the name duuu) is it lei lights and so far,3yr, 100% good., came with liq. lube hubs and marathon tires.

[ffishman]

Mine wasn't the better one, it was the standard one. But they still charged me a good buck for it. Like I said before, there are only 4 major components to a trailer, brakes, bearing, wiring, and paint. And when they all fail SAP, then there is a problem. Trust me when I say, if I ever need to buy another trailer, I will look elsewhere.

[IdahoGuy]

I've been following this thread since it started and I feel for you guys that are having issues with your trailers. Nothing worse than a problem ridden product especially when the dealer or manufacturer won't step up and resolve/repair/replace. I was concerned when my dealer recommended a EZ galvinized trailer for my Lund when I purchased it back in 2005. Dealer said they had almost no issues or complaints from their customers and they'd put a lot of them under the boats they sold. We went back and forth with a lot of trailer options and I finally agreed to the EZ Loader. Bunks/Galv/LiquiLube hubs/LEDs/Marathons. I've put a lot of miles on it and have had zero issues with it. When I first got it I changed the flimsy wiring/plug whip at the tongue. I'm not defending EZ Loader to you guys that got a bad quality product....just letting you know that not all of them suck. I feel confident that had I got a crappy trailer my dealer would have dealt with the problems on my behalf.

[ffishman]

The problems I have listed were all when the trailer was BRAND new. Now that I've had it a couple of years another problem has popped up. Albeit a minor one, still a pain. On the trailer there are 4 running lights. They continuely pop out of the settings. To solve this, I had to glue them in place. Another great idea from ez junk trailer.