Experience roundup of what I'll call the "rattle killers".

Which is your favorite. Flo-torqIII/IV, Powertech Cushion Loc, Solas RBX, etc.

Trying to figure out how effective it's been for you, i.e. completely stopped, mostly stopped, did or didn't soften the "clunk" into gear.
It would probably be best for everyone if you all include your motor and propeller info.
Oh, yeah....those who have this rattle or have had it know exactly what I'm talking about.
Those who aren't sure or don't know or think something is wrong with our motors, I respectfully request you save all that discussion for another thread to attempt to keep this one to the question at hand. Thanks in advance.

And all the hubs you list are good ones- but they'll all rattle if your don't torque them exactly to spec with a torque wrench. I've run V-6 OMCs with SS props having 4 different hubs- none rattled at all when torqued accurately to 80 ft-lb fasctory torque spec. I currently run V-6 Merc with SS props having 2 different hubs- none rattled when torqued to the "old" Merc torque spec of 55 ft-lb- but had to be retorqued every few hours because they tended to loosen up. A few years back Merc changed the torque spec to 100 ft-lb which cured the problem- but not too many people know this and end up with rattle. Unless you torque the hub to spec they all will rattle- and clunk- and wear out or crack- and run off center and vibrate. And don't think you can guess when you're at the right torque- it has to be done with a wrench. Jam the prop to the cav plate with a piece of 2x4 covered with a piece of old carpet on the face that the blade digs into- and of course you've pulled the kill switch so the engine won't start while doing this. If torqued properly the only clunk you'll hear is that duue to the extra weight/inertia of the heavy SS prop compared to aluminum.
Doug

Dog Gone.
I forgot.
All props set to specs, of course. I'd love to have all that discussion with ya about the things I've done right and wrong and all the dumb things people thought were problems that weren't, etc. Just not on this thread.

Were talking apples and oranges.

I repeat. If you don't know, aren't sure, or think something ELSE is wrong, I respectfully request you save all that discussion for another thread to attempt to keep this one to the question at hand. Thanks again.

08 zuki 175, 23 pitch Rev4...
07 Yami F150, 17 pitch Rev4...
Both with Flo-Tork 4 kit...

Couldn't tell a difference between Flo-Tork 2 or 4 going into gear. Flo-Tork 4 completely eliminated the gear box rattle on Yami and eliminated 90% on the Zuki.

Awesome, thanks.

Anyone else?

Anybody use powertech cushion loc in the large gearcase? I know they are starting to make them for intermediate gearcases. Not available to general public yet.

I can back up what bunzey said about flo-torq on the yamaha(I used III on a 115) stopped rattle, still clunks pretty good.

Still looking for info on the others, specifically powertech's.

Dumb question, who makes and where do you purchase a flo torq 4 kit ? Is there a website ?

Thanks

Flo-torq is Mercury. The III and IV fit in the old II's. Availabale from Mercury parts express.
You can also find just the new drive sleeve and spline at some dealers.
I would call 'propmann' who is on here quite often, 218-839-7481. He'll have what you need

Earlier in this string, it is mentioned that the nut must be torqued to the proper value. Does anyone know what lb ft the Flo torq 2 or 3 should be torqued to ? I have a flo torq 2 on a 90 Yami and get the rattle. There was no instruction for the torque value in the hub kit box. After reading this thread, I may buy a Flo Torq 3 for it. Help is appreciated.