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REW
03-05-2002, 10:53 PM
I was wondering if anyone has tried a seat similar to the one shown in the following web page that is available fron morthern tool?

http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=39318&prmenbr=6970

I looked it over, and found that the "attached seat" could be easily removed, and the bolt patter appeared to be the same as our typical boat seats.

Also, it would appear that the bottom bolt pattern would fit a typical boat seat pedestal - so it could be fastned to a shortned pedestal, or it could be fastned directly to the floor, if rotation was not needed or required on your boat.

The price of less than $100 certainly seems enough to attract some possibilities to preclude the back problems, that can be assoicated with big waves and rough water.

Take care
REW

Phil T.
03-05-2002, 11:29 PM
My coworker bought a couple suspension seats more expensive than that for his "HumVee" vee hulled boat built by Thunderjet. His have a shock absorber that's preloaded for a definate weight range of the occupant. One is sized for himself, the other for his wife. As hard as he runs that next-to-indestructable boat in our waves, without seats like that, he'd need back surgery. They work wonders.

perchjerker
03-05-2002, 11:59 PM
REW-
Ebijack has some of those in his Crestliner. I saw them in action at the Huron Get together last fall. Funny thing, I was meaning to get some this winter, I just emailed him yesterday about it. You must have been reading my mind!

redrnger
03-06-2002, 12:35 AM
I saw them on Wilsons,boat at the get together. I think thats where he got his.Thought he said farm-fleet has them to.He mounted them in his Targa, said, they work as good as the exspensive ones...redrnger

PWSR91
03-06-2002, 01:31 AM
I have a pair of them on my boat, Targa 2000. They are wonderful, except they only go to about 250 pounds. I blew a shock on passenger side $30.00 replacement. Still less expen than the others. I'd recommend them. Funny thing tho, bought mine at Grandville tractor last year both for under $200.00. Now they are $200.00 each. Better get them from catolog

Phil Wilson Sr # 91

Larry
03-06-2002, 03:11 AM
I've looked at the installations mentioned and liked some of the features. One of them looked to have a bit too much flex under the mount and would need reinforcement in the area the pedestal bolted to the boat. I've also been considering a bit more expensive model...#7492. I'm sure these don't compare to the quality and features of the ones made for this application but it's hard to justify the cost for limited use. Now, if Redrngr would just get them on his boat.....and add the 2'nd console...things would be much better !! LOL

Bradnd
03-06-2002, 07:31 AM
REW,

I have also wondered about those & whether they would mount right up to the pedestals. Each time I get a new northern tool magazine, I can't help looking them over. I've just never heard anyone else using them with their seats. It would be nice to find a mfg. co. that makes just the suspension alone that would sell privately.
If you decide to try one, please let us know what it takes to mount one.

Take care,

Brad

Peter H
03-06-2002, 11:35 AM
I am in the process of outfitting my boat with these type of seats. Tough on the back in Green Bay. I used Fleet Farm seat and they look similar to what you are looking at. I had to do a couple things to make them work.

1) The hole pattern on the bottom of most seats will not match up with the suspension. Easy fix - make a plate. Drill holes to attach your seat. Then tap holes in the same spots at the hole pattern on the suspension. Attach seat to plate then seat to suspension. Not too hard to do.

2) Attachment of suspension to post on base. I had my post welded shorter to accommadate the height difference.

3) Get rid of the slide (forward/backward adjustment) on the suspension base. Drill holes to match your old base in equal intervals, so you can move forward or back on preference as you bolt on the suspension seat.

For $200 - I have a great set of seats.......And now I can buy some more cranks or spinner blades....

perchjerker
03-06-2002, 11:47 AM
Thanks for the info. I have one question for you, though. Why get rid of the slide adjuster? I am 6'5" and that would come in very handy for me.

Peter H
03-06-2002, 12:04 PM
The base of my orginal seat was larger then the slide. It would not match up. The base slides inside the empty side adjuster very nicely. I suppose I could have made another plate adapter and kept the adjustment. I am short at 5'9" - not too much of an issue with me.

perchjerker
03-06-2002, 12:09 PM
I see, thanks Pete, just a little more cobbling, then. No problem.

jim schmick
03-06-2002, 02:13 PM
Was there any adapting that had to be done to mount them to your Targa?

I also have Targa and have been looking at the glide rides but was a lot of money compared to these.

Thanks for the info and
GOOD FISHING

JIM

ebijack
03-06-2002, 02:18 PM
northern also has some seats rated for 400+ lbs. northern charges $50 ea. for shipping, so if you can find them at a local farm fleet get em..(turn out to be the same price).( i believe the manufacture is GRAMMER...one of the same ones sold as a boat suspension seat) after romoving the tractor seat, i gave the actual tractor seat itself to a friend who needed the seats for his tractors. the shock is a monroe shock, which i would bet could be swaped with a gas monroe...if one of mine ever goes out, that's my plan. i welded my swivel plates (attwood's) right to the bottom of the slide on the tractor suspenion seat. i also added a stabilizer to the rear of the slider between the slide and boat floor (bolted to the slide...used a 2X6 about 5 3/4 inches tall). i had a big guy with me one day, (he rode the seat like a ride...no help from his feet...he thought it was great) break the aluminum base to bits. so after that i added the stablizer to spread the load on the floor. my seats still turn 360 degrees.
hope that helps

MadMax
03-06-2002, 04:31 PM
How do these compair to a glide ride seat?? I know the glide rides are stainless steel, but other than that are they the same thing??

REW
03-06-2002, 04:47 PM
I was wondering about the stability issue.
You indicated that you simply dropped a support down from the back of the seat ( a 2X6 X 5 3/4") such - that if a person leans back - the end of the board rests on the floor and helps with the strain?

The, if a person leans a bit forward - I would assume that the board would come slightly off the floor, and allow the seat to swivel??

I just want to clarify your installation.

The reason that I ask this is that I have replaced 3 seat bases, and 4 bent pedestals in the last couple of years by "big guys" leaning back in the big waves and the rough ride. There is a terrific amount of bending moment on the pedestal and seat base - when a person makes the pedestal support all of the whip lash from a 300 lb passenger.

Of course, if a person sits square on the seat - doesn't lean back - and insures that the shock load is vertical - then the bending is a non issue and it doesn't happen. Unfortunately, not all folks realize that there can be a problem and simply don't sit to help out the seat.

Take care
REW

ebijack
03-06-2002, 05:13 PM
howdy rew, i made the 2X6 just tall enough to put a light load on the floor at all times (it does flatten the carpet a bit, but better than broken floor mounts) so when anyone sits on the seat, the load is spread more across the floor. (i also painted the 2X6 black and put selfstick soft velcro on the bottom of the 2X6 as to try to slow any wear on the carpeting). now if i did it all over again (this first try turned out pretty good for a first trial run) i'd order some of the metal seat bases (square ones for some of the john boats...same height as needed) and eliminate the pedestal all together. still using a swivel base etc. then carpet/bolt the it all together. i still have some of my early drawings i made up trying to think about how to mount the suspension seats..without the pedestal using marine grade wood/carpet.
hope that helps

Larry
03-07-2002, 07:47 AM
If I had a money tree in mt back yard, I'd go with the Glyde Ride seat. It's by far the best way to go. There's a lot more to them than just a S/S version of these tractor seats. BUT...my tree died and I must get by a bit cheaper.

ETT
03-07-2002, 07:57 AM
Glyde Rydes have better srings and better shock, to say nothing about the fact that they are engineered from the ground up for marine use, and they will last for years. (and not look like a tractor seat - stuck in a boat)

Hey I'm as cheap as anyone (cheaper I'm sure than most with 3 kids in college) but my back has been beat often enough. I'm trying to preserve and protect my ability to get after them, and frankly, that's worth a whole lot to me.

SnellTier
03-07-2002, 10:49 AM
Hi REW,

Guys, I have a question. I also don't like my back to take a beating during long runs. And I considered buying a seat like you are all talking about on this post.

But, then after I thought about it ... I wondered if the best solution was perhaps just running at a slower speed. If my back is taking a pounding running at a certain speed ... is not my boat also?? I like to take care of my boat, motor, and trailer.

Maybe one point I am missing is tournament fishing ... I realize that time is a factor there and a contestant is losing money by going slower.

What thoughts do you guys have??

tomd

Glyde Ryder
03-07-2002, 12:42 PM
Guys, what you are doing is what I did back in the late 80,s and early 90,s with a store bought tractor seat. They are made by numerous companies in Europe and Mexico I am told. Mine came from Spain in the form of a forklift application. When they found their way to Lake Erie on the PWT they rusted and structually failed. Folded like a tent in a wind storm. They finally started surviving the big waters after 66 different changes and structural modifications. I still offer them today to folks needing an economical solution for moderate service. The key to getting these conversion units to work is heat treated chrome silicone springs that we wind in opposite directions. Stumbled on to this about 2 AM one night when remembering the harmonics problems we had with dual valve springs in the old rail dragsters backin the stone age.

The stainless steel Gorilla Glydes are totally made from scratch here in Kansas. The parts are all computerized cut by laser technology. Not cheap. They are made to take any kind of abuse and environment. All moving parts operate on a nylon or bronze bearing surface. They may seem expensive but I wonder how many of us would think of being without a stainless prop when aluminum would get us across the water?

Dont want to drag this on but just wanted to clarify. I sure dont mean to be critical of what you guys are doing to save some $$. They used to work for me under moderate conditions except the squeaky springs drove me nuts. Good luck John Estes