I have an '03 F80 Yamaha tiller...the last time I started it I almost needed a pliers to twist the key hard enough to make contact. I could hear some thing happening when I just turned the key "normally" but it wouldn't turn over untill I used the Swedish death grip and turned it further. It then started..it was rather cold so it died a few times and each restart I had to twist very hard to get it going. I called my dealer and he gave me the bad news that a new switch was $160 plus an hour to replace it because the tiller handle has to be partially taken apart. Has any one else had this problem? Is it possible the switch can be $160?

Thanks in advance for any and all responses, Swede

A quick lookup of the tiller keyswitch for your F80TLRB shows PN 67G-82510-50-00

Do a google search for on line Yamaha outboard parts you will find the List price is $127.00. Online offerings as low as about $83.00:
Just plug the PN into the PN search box.

Here is an example:

http://www.bestboatparts.com/yamaha/

So yeah,at $160 just for the part he is a little high.
The entire Tiller does not have to be taken apart,but the switch may be part of a wiring harness which could complicate things. If you use the parts lookup feature on the above site,look at section "steering 2" you can see a blowup of the tiller assembly. The keyswitch is Ref #9 . Will give you an idea how it is put together.
If you are handy,you might be able to do it yourself.

Ouch! that seems a bit expensive for the switch. It is too bad that parts for our toys are always so expensive.

Oh well, if we want to play ......

Give it a shot of WD-40. This seems to cure my sticky door lock on my Suburban....:rockit:

In addition to the previous comment, the use of liquid graphite will often solve lock problems.

Take care
REW

Does not sound like he was having problems with the switch binding,but rather the switch had to be maxed passed its normal range of motion to make the contacts. Description of symptom called for replacement.

Thanks all for the responses...I have some "good and bad" news...first I did look up the site that Mark gave and found the switch as he said. I called my dealer and told him about it, and asked the number of the switch he had...It differed from the one on line. I'm going to Bay deNoc mid next week so I brought the boat to him as I didn't want to gamble with the wrong switch ....found out he had the wrong switch...But also found thru the mechanic that it most likely was not that switch. He had a bit of trouble with it and he thinks it is the neutral switch..Meaning my panic when not starting, did not make it work better by turning harder...so he showed me what to do, temporarily, to bypass the switch and test if it acted up again. In the mean while the parts man called Yamaha again and explained the error and now has a different switch that is almost 1/2 price of the first quote. I don't think I will be needing it but it is interesting just the same..$160 to $90. So to continue the thread, has anyone had a neutral switch go bad...A friend's son has the same motor (02) and he has informed me that he has had trouble with his but as yet has not changed it out...he just wiggles the shifter. That is not the fix I want so if you guys have any tips on that it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for all past and future responses....Good site, Mark G

Swede

Yes, I have had a problem with the Neutral switch on my f40 Yamaha. The switch on mine is a plunger style switch that is a "normally open" type. I am pretty sure it's the same on yours.

How it works is that when in neutral,an extension on the shift linkage pushes the plunger in,and closes the switch. This completes the circuit to the starter relay allowing the starter to work when the key switch is turned. When you shift into forward or reverse,the switch is allowed to open,disabling the starter circuit.

What happened to mine,was that it came loose from its mounting bracket. If loose,the switch just flops around and will not be able to be closed,since it is a normally open type. Starter cannot work regardless of position of shifter. I was able to correct it myself. Of course if the switch is actually failing the result would be the same. However,if you were able to start your motor by maxing out the motion on your keyswitch,this would not indicate a problem with your neutral switch. Also not sure how you could "bypass" the neutral switch very easily,as ,at least on mine, is buried in the belly pan with lots of wiring harnesses that had to be unfolded to gain access. Maybe the switch is different on the F80.

How did he tell you to bypass it?

FYI the neutral switch is Ref #4 in "Steering 2" of that parts blowup.

There are two brown wires that can be jumpered to bypass the switch. One comes from the switch and one from one of the relays. He told me to connect the two ... that is the bypass. I can also probe with a tester to see if power is at one or both at the time of trouble, if at one but not the other then jumper and see. I would have to check it out to give a more accurate description, and will tomorrow.

I agree that if twisting harder made a difference then the neutral switch would not be a factor. When he started it he did not twist it hard but held it there and in a short time it started...then after that it started like it should have and has since new...just touch it. This is why he thinks it is not the ignition switch. I guess I will just have to try it and see.

I will not be a happy camper if it doesn't start on Thur. morn.

Will keep you informed.

Swede