Repacking Bearings

[jignpig]

Can anyone say whether a guy should tear into this project DIY?
Thanks,
Todd

[Hot Runr Guy]

Did mine last night. It's all about having the right tools. Here's the bearing "packer" I use, I think I got it from Farm & Fleet. Most people will say that if you have Bearing Buddy's, and they're doing thier job, there is no need to re-pack. But, I just like going in to winter knowing there is no moisture in my hubs, and that part is ready for next spring.
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1238

HRG

[jignpig]

Thanks for the link I appreciate it!

[rebs]

wow that ios a slick device, I am going to get one
thanks

[ffishman]

Before I changed over to Oil-Bath hubs, I broke down my hubs every year. To me, it was cheap insurance against a break down on the hwy. Very easy to do. And does not take a whole bunch of time. All be it, a tad messy. The only real cost, is, every time you break them down, make sure you replace the inner seal.

[jignpig]

thanks for the advice!

[Bill Krejca]

It doesn't take very long, unless you have brakes on the trailer, then plan on a bit longer. I had more than a little fun with mine, which could have been been worked into a great "Candid Camera" show. Must have been a case of "all the tolerances going the wrong way", which was the reason one of the brake bolts didn't originally have a lock washer on it.

Bill Krejca

[2Labs]

Before I changed over to Oil-Bath hubs, I broke down my hubs every year. To me, it was cheap insurance against a break down on the hwy. Very easy to do. And does not take a whole bunch of time. All be it, a tad messy. The only real cost, is, every time you break them down, make sure you replace the inner seal.


Yup. So did a buddy of mine. And he only trailered his boat 1 round trip a year -- total 700 miles. But he did his hubs every year without fail. He always said "That way I know it is done right". And, he replaced the seals, too, just like ffishman said.

He was NOT a mechanically inclined guy, either.

I bet he would have bought the FleetFarm gadget if he still owned a boat. Greasing was the part he hated because of the mess.

[Hawker]

Having the right tools makes the job go a lot easier, no doubt, and that bearing packer is the cat's meow!! They can be found at almost any of the chain auto parts stores and sure are handy. As has already been said above, be sure to replace the inner seals, they are cheap insurance to keep water and moisture out. Re-packing is certainly a DIY project, however if you've not done it before, get a buddy who has to help you (key word is "help") and you'll be good to go the next time. Good luck!

[ebijack]

most bearings fail due to heat (over tightening) you'd be surprised at how loose the nut needs to be after "setting" the bearings. set the bearings with a wrench ( tighten till snug) while spinning the tire. back off the nut about 1/2 turn or so. tighten with fingers and go 1/4 turn back in at most and cotter pin it. there shouldn't be any play in the wheel holding the top and bottom of the tire and it should spin freely. that's it. that's how i've been doing it for 41 yrs.

[motorguide]

Packing the bearings isn't the hard part. It's cleaning out the old grease, pounding out the seal, pounding out the races, then pounding the new races back in.

It is a DIY even if you aren't handy. If you have a shop do it, they may over or under tighten the nut.

[perchjerker]

Packing the bearings isn't the hard part. It's cleaning out the old grease, pounding out the seal, pounding out the races, then pounding the new races back in.

It is a DIY even if you aren't handy. If you have a shop do it, they may over or under tighten the nut.

why are you removing the races just to repack the bearings???

[motorguide]

By the time I pound out the seal, I feel better replacing everything rather than worry about it. :)

I have tried everything, but I can't get the seal to come out unless I smash it into oblivion.

[Hot Runr Guy]

By the time I pound out the seal, I feel better replacing everything rather than worry about it. :)

I have tried everything, but I can't get the seal to come out unless I smash it into oblivion.
you need to get a different claw hammer. Sure, the seal get's destroyed, but it never touches the race.
HRG
or, you can get the "correct" tool: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1114

[motorguide]

you need to get a different claw hammer. Sure, the seal get's destroyed, but it never touches the race.
HRG
or, you can get the "correct" tool: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1114

Have both, neither works. I even leave the tire on, but the "correct" tool just bends the lip and then my hands smash the rim. I wish it would work cuz then it would be a 1 hour job instead of all afternoon.

[Hot Runr Guy]

motorguide,
Are the grease seals you're using ground smooth on the OD, or coated? The ones I've been using lately seem to have a teflon-like coating, which probably keeps them from rusting and sticking to the hub. I think I've got a spare set at home, let me look tonight and see what brand they are.
HRG

[motorguide]

motorguide,
Are the grease seals you're using ground smooth on the OD, or coated? The ones I've been using lately seem to have a teflon-like coating, which probably keeps them from rusting and sticking to the hub. I think I've got a spare set at home, let me look tonight and see what brand they are.
HRG

They are kind of are goldish. I get them from Carquest.

****, if I could just see the inside bearing to inspect that would at least be leaps beyond what I go through now.

[ffishman]

When I did mine, after removing them, I would clean them completely. Next a very close inspection of the bearings. Any pitting, and they were junked, no pitting, and regrease and put back.

[REW]

Todd,
When repacking bearings, one thing that you want to be careful doing is removing the dust cap or bearing buddy.

The problem is from prying only on one side of the hub. Depending on the dust cap, or bearing buddy, and hub- you may find that if you pry only on one side of the hub, you could possibly "bell" out the end of the hub.

If you do " bell" out the hub, and you use bearing buddies on your trailer, you may lose the buddy, due to lack of pressure holding the buddy in place.

Rather than prying on one side of the hub, use a pair of thin screwdrivers - to initially began prying the hub or bearing buddy off the hub. Pry equally from both sides of the hub, so that the dust cover or bearing buddy comes straight off the hub, rather than at an angle. If you do pry the dust cover or bearing buddy straight off the hub, you won't enlarge the end of the axle, which will give you problems down the road, so to speak.

---------
Another thing to be careful with is the setting of the bearing pressure.
i.e. how tight you set the bearing pressure in the axle.

Now and then, folks set the bearing pressure too tight, and then during use, the bearing heats up and breaks.

You can read about many different methods of setting the bearing pressure.
I use the following method.

1. Jack up the trailer,
2. Remove the tire. - after placing the trailer on a jack stand. Never rely soley on the use of a jack to hold up any object.
3. Carefully remove the dust cover or bearing buddy - prying equally on both sides so that the dust cover is not tilted during removal.
4. Remove cotter pin, or nut holding clips on the axle.
5. Remove nut, washer, hub, bearings and seal.
6. Comletely clean out old grease from all parts including hub.
7. Carefully check the inner and outer race for any sign of corrosion or checking. If so, replace the races and bearings.
8. Carefully check each bearing for any sign of corrosion of checking, if so, replace the races and bearings.
9. During the cleaning of the hub, if you notice water on the inside of the hub, it is quite likely that you have corrosion on the bearings and races - if so, replace the bearings and races.
10. Before installing the bearings, completely pack the bearings, using your hands, or a packing tool to completely fill the bearings.
11. After installing the inner bearing, carefully replace the rear seal, insuring that the seal goes in straight, with no tilting. Use a block of wood or other hard materail and a heavy hammer to insert the seal square into the hub.
13. Install the outer bearing, washer and nut.
14. Now comes the critical part of setting the bearing pressure.
15. I use a socket or wrench to completely seat the bearings, i.e. very tight.
16. Now, I use the wrench to completely loosen the nut - without disturbing the hub or bearings. Then, I tighten the nut down with a wrench so that it is just tight. Then, I back it off one castellation so that the bearing is just a tiny bit loose.
17. Insert the cotter pin, or bend up the nut holding clips to hold the nut.
18. Replace the dust cover or bearing buddy - insuring that the cover or buddy goes "straight" back on the hub with no tilting.

Note:
The reason to leave the bearing a tiny bit loose is to allow for hub part heating and expansion. If there is no expansion room, the bearing will heat, and during the expansion, it iwll break a bearing.

Take care
REW

[RFerrell]

If you are not at all mechanically inclined ... don't try this. Keep children away from the trailer also. And never put any body part under the trailer, if you have it up on a jack.

I would venture to say a large percentage of guys can change there own oil or brakes on their vehicle. If you are one of those people, then you should have no trouble packing the bearings on your trailer. Some trailers even come with an easy lube system or grease caps that have a place to attach a grease gun or even a "bearing buddy". Before you go tearing into your bearings, remove the grease cap and visualy inspect the bearings, the amount of grease inside and what the texture of the grease is. If by that you decide it is a good idea to repack the bearings then here is a quick lesson in accomplishing the job.

Be sure to jack your trailer up one side at a time and make sure it is on solid ground. (Try not to have anything on the trailer at the time your doing this). Remove the wheel and lay it under the trailer frame incase the trailer should fall, you have some protection from it smashing your hands.
Next, pop the grease cap off, if you don't already have it off and you will see what is called a "king nut" with a cotter pin drove through the center of the king nut and the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and nut. You should also see some kind of large washer ... sometimes it may have one side of it flat, in which that would be called a "D" washer. Remove the washer as well. Your hub should slide off ... but be careful, because your bearings may also fall out as well.

The back side of the hub should have a grease seal, I would also recommend changing that as well if you have to remove it to get to the bearing, but you may not have to if you can get enough grease into the bearing.

Once you have the bearing out, inspect it for any flaws, such as missing bearings, worn spots or any evidence of rubbing and heating up. It is ok to leave the old grease inside and simply add more. Personally, I like to degrease, inspect and make sure the bearing is good, before I add any grease. It is always better to go with a high temp grease, because it will last longer.

once you have repacked the bearings, and have replaced the rear bearings into the hub and replaced the seal ... slide the hub back onto the spindle. Pack and replace the outter bearing and slide it onto the spindle and into the hub. Place the large washer into the spindle and add the king nut. Tighten the king nut until it snugs and then back it off a 1/4 turn. Place the cotter pin back on and then the grease cap.

Congratulations ... you have repackerd your bearing. Replace the wheel and the lugs and let the jack down slowly. Repeat for the other side.

Also ... if you don't have a trailer supply place around your home ... I buy all my parts online for a better deal. I like to use a company called Trailer Parts Supply (http://www.theoempartsstore.com/store/home.php?cat=314). They have just about any trailer part you would ever need.

Rick