New Boat Shopping...Thoroughly Confused

[Guest]

Hi all. I am new here and glad I found the community. I will try to keep this short and sweet, but I do have a lot of questions and concerns and appreciate anyone taking the time to read.

First off I am looking at various aluminum deep Vs in the 17.5-18.5 foot range. 80% of my use will be fishing Indiana lakes...mainly Monroe Reservior, but I do want something that my family could spend the day on and have a good time. There are so many boats on the market in this category and I am overwhelmed the more I shop. I have had my heart set on an Alumacraft Trophy 175 with a 115 Optimax at a local dealer. I nearly bought it on impulse, but wasn't sure if I wanted them to hang a 150 on it instead. Also the dealer offered to sell me a Ranger Reata 1750 for the same money, and it is clearly a nicer boat in every respect.

So that leads to Question 1: What makes you buy an aluminum V over something like the Ranger or Skeeter WX1880? They are said to have a better ride, handle = or bigger water, higher resale, more storage with glass compartments and better seals...no thin plastic, no wood, more versatile for "play", far sturdier fishing platform up front due to the fiberglass...and all the little things like a nice steering wheel and metal brackets on the windshield supports. Deep in my gut I still want the aluminum V and I can't put a finger on why. I like the aluminum style and the Ranger looks more like a deflated Jet Ski. I like the large carpeted sides of aluminum boats for stepping in off of a dock. Short of that, the glass boats seem far superior. I searched for topics here until 5 am for aluminum vs. glass and I saw the same ole song and dance...airplanes are rivited aluminum...airplanes don't drive in water...fiberglass doesn't last as long, blah blah. It all reads like personal preference with no hard facts. I'm just looking for some concrete reasons, given all the advantages of glass, why should I follow my gut and keep looking at Aluminum boats?

Since then I have had more time to look around. I looked at a G3 Angler 185, 150 four stroke, loaded to the gills, and several thousand dollars less than the Alumacraft with the 115. I was VERY impressed with the quality of the boat. I also looked at a Crestliner and it was great quality, until I stepped my 6'4 260lb butt up onto the front deck and felt it sag. Yesterday I looked at a Princecraft based on a magazine article and forum comments that called them the Mercedes of aluminum and compared them to a Lund. I wonder how much they were paid for that one because I was very underwhelmed with the flimsy sides and paper thin passenger console plastic. The floor felt solid as concrete.

Do you all have any suggestions for boats I should look at? My goal is to stay in the $25-30,000 range and it seems right now I can get a boat that stickers well into the mid-upper 30s in that price range with the current market conditions. I could spend more, but that is my target.

Here is my list of boats to see first hand....
-Skeeter WX1880
-Champion 186FH
-StarCraft Super Fisherman

Thanks for your time!

[Richard B]

You are doing exactly what you need to do, research, research, and research some more. Take rides in both types of boats. If the dealerships won't give you a ride call the factory and see if they have someone in your area to give you a ride, Yarcraft did that for me.

I have owned 4 boats, a Starcraft, Stratos, Alumacraft, and picked up a new 209 Yarcraft last month.
The Starcraft was a 14 footer with a 25 horse. Great fishing and hunting boat but when a friend purchased an Astroglass with a 115 I was hooked on the bigger rigs. Took my wife out on the Astroglass one weekend and she was in shock over the ride and speed, she liked it. The next spring I purchased a 18 foot Stratos with a Johnson 150. I used that boat for 9 years, fishing almost every weekend including a few tournaments. It was a tremendous boat. I felt I could fish any inland lake with that boat. The only reason I sold it was that we moved from Columbus, Indiana to Northwest Ohio and an 18 foot bass boat is not a boat that you want to get caught out on Lake Erie on. With that said the gentleman that purchased that boat is still fishing in it and that boat is over 15 years old.
I purchased a Trophy 200 Alumacraft in 2004. It was supposed to be a great boat. I would not recommend it to even my worst enemy. It was back to the factory every year for various issues. Some of the issues I had with the Trophy were cracked hull under the passenger side console, broken stringers in bow, (not once but twice, 2nd time they finally admitted a poor design and explained that is why they are now manufacturing the 205, ). My wife was not comfortable in it and as hard as we tried the company would not replace the hull. This spring the CMC broke 13 miles out on Lake Erie. The 9.9 was held onto the lift with just a pin. It bounced against the transom for 3 hours until I was towed to the ramp and took it off. According to Alumacraft they start their manufacturing process at the transom and they could not replace it and have a seaworthy boat. The ride of this boat compared to my Stratos was terrible.
After this happened I knew that I wanted the ride and performance of a fiberglass fishing boat again. My brother has a Ranger 620. Nice boat and a great ride but I don’t like the storage pods on the side. After talking with 6 to 8 boat companies and even more dealerships I pulled the trigger on the Yarcraft 209. What sold me on the Yarcraft were the people. I contacted their dealerships in Wisconsin, they did not have any in Michigan or Ohio at that time, and they were extremely helpful answering all of my questions. I contacted the Yarcraft factory and talked with Don Cary and Dean Nathe, just by talking to them you could tell they love what they are doing and know that the customer is number 1. I also read all the articles I could on this web site about Yarcraft and other boat companies. I have had this boat out only 4 times since I picked it up this fall and so far I love it.

[K Gonefishin]

Each boat has ups and downs and you will never find the perfect boat 100% all the way around, figure out where you are willing to give a little to get a little. First things first since you are the one that will have to live with your purchase and the payment (if you have one) then the first thing you want to do is drive each one and get some seat time, this will say a whole lot about what you like and dislike in a boat once you get behind the wheel and drive it and pay close attention to how they fit your style of fishing. Other things to consider are what is included in the boat package and what is extra, alot of features that might come on one boat standard might end up costing alot more if they are extra. A warranty and what is covered and for how long is another thing to weigh in on and how customer services of that said manufacture stands up, as well as the dealer which is a big piece of the puzzle. Glass boats like Ranger do hold value very well but so do Lunds, as far as a dryer smoother ride, glass gets my nod, storage is usually something that is up for discussion based on every boat owner, only you can decide, keep in mind the quality of the trailer too this should also be considered. So having said all that I own a Ranger and feel it fits what I like and enjoy but I'm not going to tell you to buy one...only you can decide what will work for you but figured I'd through out a few things to consider, good luck on your purchase it's a tough one, all the boats you are looking at will make a great fishing boat so there is no wrong choice only a prefered choice.
Ohh and get the most horsepower you can get on that model, you can never have to much hp, bigger motors either come with hydraulic steering or it's an option that is a nice feature as well.

[ffishman]

My personnal opinion is 1)LUnds are overpriced!!! 2) Any glass boat will ride better than an equal size aluminum. I know there are other opinions on this, but this is my .02

[I Walleye]

Check out a Ranger 1860 Angler. You can still find some hold over models out there so it will definitly be in your price range. A great looking boat, very similar to a Reatta, but geared more to fishing, moved the rod locker up and can get one or two consols or a full windshild. One great thing about this boat is you can hang a 175 on the back.

[stcriox]

Kudos on your due diligence in regards to research. I agree with many of the posts -- no boat will offer 100% of what you are looking for (i.e. layout, storage, electronics locations, etc). You need to sit in each boat you are comtemplating to determine what you are willing to let slide and what is an absolute must. I have owned a Skeeter 1775 T; a Yar Craft 2095BT; and now own a Ranger 620T. All good boats. I have many friends who fish; therefore, I have had the opportunity to fish in many different boats (Lund, Warrior, Alumacraft). A few thoughts:

Are there a lot of dirt roads where you live or where you are going to fish? Fiberglass can be a bear to maintain (if you are anal like me).

In my opinion, fiberglass has a much smoother ride in the some of larger lakes I fish (Mille Lacs, Red, Leech, etc.)

It sounds like you are not looking for a pure fishing boat; you are looking for a combo of both fishing and family pleasure. Take that into consideration (i.e. layout, floor space, seating).

Storage: Is dry storage a must? Some boat storage is very wet!

REMEMBER: If you plan on selling your boat after a few years, resale is important. With the economy the way it is now, and the way it is projected to remain for a while, consider resale. There are a lot of very nice used boats on the market. Also, new boats will continue to remain lower than normal because of the poor economy. (Dealerships are hurting now more than ever). Therefore, you will have stiff competition when it is time to sell your boat.

It sounds like you are right on track. Research, research and research some more. Make a list of what is a must and what you are willing to let slide. Then, in the end, you can feel good about your decision.

Test drive and ride each boat you are considering, where possible. Also remember what we were taught at a very young age: you get what you pay for. However, now is also the time the prospective buyer can make a fair but balanced offer on a boat that some time ago was not negotiable when it came to price, due to the economy.

Good luck.

[T Mac]

"They are said to have a better ride"
~Not automatically. But in smaller sized boats... usually.

higher resale"
~Not necessarily...and in some areas, not at all.

"more storage with glass compartments"
~Depends on what you are comparing. Lund Pro-Vs and a few other Lunds for example, have more storage for fishing gear than a Ranger Reata (I sold both).

"far sturdier fishing platform up front due to the fiberglass"
~...Naww...again... depends on what two boats you are comparing. Not sure what the "sturdy" claim is, however.

"and all the little things like a nice steering wheel and metal brackets on the windshield supports."
~Those sound like standard parts in all upper end boats, both alum and glass.


Put a couple of Lund models on your list, too.

Have fun... but don't get in the trap of over analyzing everything because you will become miserablyb stressed out.
REMEMBER... this is supposed to be fun!!!

[DRAG]

ahh...now I can post under my name. Thanks for the responses.

I think one of the issues I am running into with flimsy feeling front decks is that I am looking at the Fish n Ski models with the removable center piece instead of a sturdy rod locker underneath. When I put my 260lbs up there they give a little...especially being wood. The Ranger was solid as a rock, as was the G3.

I like the standard front deck with the rod locker, but like the rear jump seats that the family models offer. With 4 post seats in the back of an 18 foot boat that would get tight back there. Two post seats + jump seats leaves lots of standing room and space for gear. Alumacraft appears to have a model called the Dominator that has is setup like I want it.

I never considered Lund because I don't want to pay $40,000 for an aluminum 17.5 foot boat. I am going to a dealer to look at the Starcraft...they sell Lund also. Maybe I will take a look. The whole reason I have a want for an aluminum V is because I spent a day on my Uncle's 18 foot lund with 200 Optimax, and also another weekend on a friend's Starcraft. They were both REAL nice boats.

[Liquid Metal]

Drag, go with your gut feeling. I live in Pacific North West and there are many good welded aluminum boat makers here. I looked long and hard for ths last boat I was going to buy.I ended up in a Pro V.
I am in around 280lbs and the thing is rock solid not only up front but anywhere I stand in or on it(gunnels)
I found mine here in the classifieds. I think you may find a good one a year or so old they may fit your needs.I bought mine from a pro so the warrenties came with it.
good luck and like T-mac said have fun!

[fshrman-r72]

Your on the right track and doing everything right, however be sure and MAX the Horsepower, Max the Horspower. Don't cut short on Horspower just to stay in budget on any boat. Look at the HP rating and the coast guard recommended max weight and passengers.

Monroe can get busy and windy and horspower is also to get back to shore safe and also in handeling the rough waters of big waters. It is not necessarly just for speed.

Hust my two cents. Good Luck in your purchase.

[bob1]

I like my Ranger Reata 1850. It serves very well for fishing and family fun. Rides great!

Bob

[DRAG]

Monroe can get busy and windy and horspower is also to get back to shore safe and also in handeling the rough waters of big waters. It is not necessarly just for speed.


You aren't kidding about Monroe getting rough. While this is my first boat, I grew up on Lake Monroe and spent most of my summers living in my dad's Donzi cruiser. For some reason people think they need 50 foot yachts to motor around an 11,000 acre lake :bigsmile: We used to troll that lake in a bass boat and there were days we had to get off the main lake because we were taking on water. I had the same boat on Lake Winnebago with my uncle fishing for walleye and that was interesting even though I'm sure it was a calm day on that lake...it was pushing it in that boat. That is my main reasoning behind wanting a walleye boat. Safe for my family, and I can still do any type of fishing I want.

Are these 17-18 foot walleye boats truly suitable for Lake Michigan? We had downriggers on the Donzi and would come up a couple times a year for salmon. I would like to make one trip a year up there during decent weather. The last 3 times I went were pretty rough. They started out nice and later in the day got into 4-5 footers, which were no problem in that 27' Donzi. The last time we made the trip up and went out during an all craft advisory...none of the big rigs went out. We stayed completely dry in the 10 footers but I was manning the riggers and I got sick after 30 minutes of fishing so we went home :bangin:

[Johnnielund]

Like fshrman-r72 says, max out your horsepower. I learned the hard way. I tried to save a few bucks and wound up spending more the next year, to upgrade to max horsepower. Don't be afraid to look at Lund. I bought my Lund for less money than the comperable Alumacraft. I've heard that Alumacraft handles rough water better than Lund. However, the working word here is "heard". I don't know if that's really the case. Even the Lund Explorer is now sporting the IPS2 hull design. This is the same hull design used on the ProV model (top of the line). If you're thinking about a fiberglass hull, I don't think you would go wrong with a Ranger. Check out the Ranger website. There is a series of videos showing the steps from design to finished product. Very interesting. Whatever you decide, good luck and have fun!

[T Mac]

I never considered Lund because I don't want to pay $40,000 for an aluminum 17.5 foot boat. I am going to a dealer to look at the Starcraft...they sell Lund also. Maybe I will take a look. The whole reason I have a want for an aluminum V is because I spent a day on my Uncle's 18 foot lund with 200 Optimax, and also another weekend on a friend's Starcraft. They were both REAL nice boats.
Sure. I understand.
But...you can get a 17.5 foot Lund for a lot less than 40K.
Look at the Explorer models.

[DRAG]

Thanks! I will check some Lund's out this week. Are these double plated hulls all the way back, or just in the bow?

[T Mac]

Thanks! I will check some Lund's out this week. Are these double plated hulls all the way back, or just in the bow?


From bow back past consoles...where the boat takes the beating.

Boats with twin plates all the way back do tend to have more familiarity with run issues. (porpoise seems to be kind of common, but can be fixed...or on another brand, just the opposite-> the bow doesn't want to come up ).

I am retired... nothing to gain. Just telling you what I saw. I sold Lund, G-3, Ranger.
Makes no difference to me what you buy. But always keep in mind...the object is to have fun. :)

[FisHn2DMax]

No matter if you go with a glass or aluminum boat, don't forget about the trailer! Way too many people focus on the new boat and don't pay attention to the trailer packaged with the boat. The two biggest mistakes a new boat owner ususally makes is:
1. Not maxing out the Motor HP to the Hull capacity
2. Not getting a trailer with enough capacity under the boat

I can't tell you how many boats I've seen on the side of the road with tire blowouts and bearing problems that had too small of trailer capacity for the boat load it was trying to haul. Many dealers put trailers under the boat that are only rated for the empty weight of the boat and the equivalent of a single 2 stroke motor. When loading the boat with fuel, kicker motor, trolling motor, riggers, gear and all the other toys, the trailer, axle, and tires can become easily overloaded.

Make sure the new trailer rated to handle the boat, motor(s), gear and then add some additional overkill, you'll be sorry if you don't.

As T-Mac said, have some fun with this!

[DRAG]

Thanks guys. When I finally pick something, I will post a detailed review of each boat I have looked at.

[boat nut]

I have had my heart set on an Alumacraft Trophy 175 with a 115 Optimax at a local dealer. I nearly bought it on impulse, but wasn't sure if I wanted them to hang a 150 on it instead. Also the dealer offered to sell me a Ranger Reata 1750 for the same money, and it is clearly a nicer boat in every respect.
Deep in my gut I still want the aluminum V and I can't put a finger on why. I like the aluminum style and the Ranger looks more like a deflated Jet Ski. I like the large carpeted sides of aluminum boats for stepping in off of a dock. Short of that, the glass boats seem far superior.
Since then I have had more time to look around. I looked at a G3 Angler 185, 150 four stroke, loaded to the gills, and several thousand dollars less than the Alumacraft with the 115. I was VERY impressed with the quality of the boat. I also looked at a Crestliner and it was great quality, until I stepped my 6'4 260lb butt up onto the front deck and felt it sag. Yesterday I looked at a Princecraft based on a magazine article and forum comments that called them the Mercedes of aluminum and compared them to a Lund. I wonder how much they were paid for that one because I was very underwhelmed with the flimsy sides and paper thin passenger console plastic. The floor felt solid as concrete.
Thanks for your time!

Clearly, you are doing all the necessary work to reach a valid conclusion, and I don't disagree with any of your statements. I'm an aluminum guy, so I have a little bias that way. I believe that typically, an aluminum boat will require less horsepower to do the same work, or more specifically, you'll use less gas with an aluminum rig. If your main waters have obstacles that you might accidentally find, an aluminum hull will withstand more of that type of beating. I agree that, often fiberglass hulls will offer a better ride, however, the Rangers I see at my lake seem to have a lot of hull in the water, and take a lot of power to make them go; I have no idea if that is a setup issue, or just typical of the hulls. You state you have a gut feeling about the aluminum hull; Bob Barker would say go with your gut. As for power, I would like to max out the boat also, but I think a better statement might be: get the most power that you can afford. Just remember that, if you underpower your boat (<60% OF MAX), and you are disappointed by its performance, you'll be disappointed every time you use the boat.
As others would say, love shopping for all things fishing related!!

[cc-rider]

First off, buy whatever makes YOU happy and what YOU want. That is what's most important. There are many different boats out there and they all serve their purpose.

However, I can offer up my complete happiness with the Ranger 1850 Reata. And, if you read up on these, I don't think that there is anyone who doesn't praise these boats. This may go down as one of the most successful boats of all time. My buddy bought one and the very second I stepped into it on the dock I knew it was the boat for me. It was right for me....but you have to find what is right for you.

Best luck with your purchase. Is there anything more fun than boat shopping???!!!

[luredaddy]

I have learned one thing, no matter what the topic, weigh heavily the opinions of TMAC and REW. PERIOD!
John

[seabassrocks2008]

I just got a 18.5 lund fisherman this spring with a 150 yamaha 4stroke and it was around 30k loaded. The front deck is rock solid im around 230lbs and it doesnt give an inch. I looked at a g3 at the boat show and my wife told be to get off there cause she saw it sag we werent impressed. We cant wait only another 4.5 months til we can get back out on the lake.

[bluegill 1]

You gotten some great advice. If your new here, T Mac's advice is one you should listen to. He's held in high regards. He's honest and tells it like it is. He was a dealer for both Lund, Ranger and G3, he knows his stuff.
My 2 cents........
1. Don't skimp on a trailer. Some Dealers will cut the package cost by cutting back on the trailer.
Get a well known brand that exceeds your package weight, make sure you have brakes on it, and get a swing tongue. If you don't need a swing tongue, get it anyway for when you go to sell it.
2. You want the best aluminum .........Lund
3. As mentioned before.... look at the Ranger 1850 Reatta.(Nice boat) Oh and they make a heck of a trailer.
4. I like the rear Jumpseats....especially with family and friends. They are there when you need them, and gone when you don't. I find with the jump seats I generally only have two pedestals on board.
Free's up space.
5. I have a 17 1/2 Lund, If I had to do it all over again, I'd do a 18 footer in a heartbeat.
6. Max out the Horsepower if you can. You wont regret it. Especially if your loading up with family and friends.
7. Go with a 4 stroke, or E-tech, other motors are a bit louder, not appreciated by grandma and grandpa, let alone the Mother in law.
8. Dont be afraid to look for a used 1-3 year old boat, you might be able to a more desirable boat and still stay within the budget.
9. Be patient and enjoy............it's supposed to be fun.

Bluegill 1
Oh, let us know what you end up with.

[DRAG]

I just got back from spending a couple hours with the Starcraft and Lund, and for the people that don't want to take the time to read my little review, I am no longer interested in the Ranger. Ranger makes a killer boat and I give it a 9.5 on a scale of 1-10. It is a great boat, but not for me. I think my Dad is going to buy it though.

08 Starcraft Super Fisherman 170
Holy huge *** 17 foot boat!!! This thing is huge, wide, and deep. It has great storage, a huge rear livewell, and the livewell is actually made of sturdy plastic and not thin stuff used in other boats (Lund was thick as well). The dash is tall and perfectly situated for a tall guy like me...same goes for the seats. They are large enough and supportive enough for 6'4 260 lbs. The steering wheel is in the right position and the gauges are very nice. I was impressed with the overall fit and finish and the floor is solid as a rock. From the outside it is a very attractive boat and I think you could load gear, fuel, full livewell, and 4 guys and still have a lot of boat out of the water. I would give this boat a 9+ on a scale of 1-10.
Some things that I didn't like... The seats have limited adjustability. They did not telescope and there wasn't a seat in the boat that could go up on the front deck and serve as a bass style fishing chair. The dealer said those seats were available and they would provide them. I also noticed a bulge on the side of the boat where the V meets the straight side. It is meant to be there and is symetrical on both sides...it just looks a little odd. It kind of looks like a dent in the side.

Funny thing was that there was a Merc 90 4 stroke on the back of this big boat. They recommended a 115, and I asked if they could toss a 150 Optimax on there for me. No issue and a fair deal on the upgrade :rockit:

Lund 1850 Tyee
Now I know why everyone says Lund makes the best aluminum boat. They do. The fit and finish was superb all over, and this was reflected in the price. The seat quality was the best I've seen in ANY boat, though they may have been a tad small for me. The way the hinges feel on the comparments and all the little things are not overlooked. I did think the dash was too low for me and the steering wheel was in my knees, even with the seat low.

With 150s on both boats, there is a $5K price difference. The dealer is going to have to sharpen his pencil a little because the pricing he gave me was list and the other dealers have slaughtered him...but he made mention that he would do exactly that once I decided which boat I want. I was equally impressed with both.

I also looked at a Pro V while I was there. Great fishing layout...but too far out of my budget and it is a shallow boat compared to the Tyee.

More to think about. Is the Lund $15,000 better than the G3? No, but we will see what I can work out.

[CSH Kucinski]

You are asking all of the right questions and I give you credit for the research you are doing. I searched long and hard years ago and to this day I will only buy Lund. Yes, some might think they are over priced but they are a great boat. I have no complaints! Recently bought my Pro V from the classifieds on this site and I am now selling by 17' Explorer.

[options]

Make sure you take a look at HewesCraft, they are not as well know in the midwest but make a **** of a boat.

Good luck in your decision.

[grunny71]

When you looked at the lunds did you look at the fisherman, almost identical boats but about 2 to 3 thousand less than the tyee.

[Unlogged Eric Olson]

Glad to see you've taken you're time in the research!.

I see that you've narrow the selection a bit but let me throw a monkey wrench in the mix. I am biased in my apprach as I have run Rangers for many years, but that said, compare apples to apples in the package you're looking at. from chargers to steering systems to the trailer.

If you compare all factors and what is atandard vs what is an add on I think you'll be suprised at the result. Not going to lead you one way or the otheron the boat other than to say price options vs standard on the others!

Also now keep in mind that motors are now an option for all brands you're looking at. Ranger has offered all brands (E-tec Included) and will continue to do so. Rumour haas it the others are as well.


Good luck and may your search be fun and rewarding!

Tight Lines
Eric
NPAA 165

[DRAG]

I spent another long day yesterday sitting in my final 4 boats...Alumacraft, G3, Starcraft, and Lund. I made an attempt to deal on the Starcraft and my dealer is smoking pot I think. I was offered the same boat 200 miles away for $8,000 cheaper than his bottom dollar. I thought his price on the Lund 1850 Tyee was fair...$38,500 with a 150. Is that in the right ballpark? $40,500 was list.

I sat in the Alumacraft for 2 hours this week and eliminated it based on poor craftsmanship, and I thank Lund and Starcraft for setting a good example for me to take a second look at craftsmanship. The hull construction appears to be excellent and I think it is the prettiest boat, but the inside looks like a different company put it together. Some of this is dealer negligence, and some Alumacraft. One of the rear jump seats wouldn't open without great force because it was crooked and hung up on the rear deck. Who the heck lets that out of production like that? There were buttons torn on the cover under the passenger console, and the passenger console was cracked. I'm sure this happened while the dealer had this at shows and demo'd the boat, but is that going to happen when I'm out on the water? I started looking in the bottom of compartments at the structure below and there were gobs of metal shavings. Big deal...but take 5 minutes and vacuum the thing. 10 minutes of work would have sold an Alumacraft, but instead the lack thereof turned me away. I also went and stood on the deck of the 195 Trophy. Where the 175 was solid up front, the 195 sagged like grandma's rack. Yet another turnoff and a characteristic Lund and Starcraft didn't have.

I made one more stop on the way home to give the G3 another shot. I had all but dismissed this boat, as it was one of the first I looked at and it was outside in 20 degree weather and I think I looked at it fast weeks ago. The dealer, knowing I was shopping, had pulled the boat inside and prepped it, opened up the top set, had a custom cover laying there for me, had a graph I liked popped onto the dash, and didn't touch the price from the original they gave me. This dealer wants to sell a boat. I walked all over all the decks, hopped up and down, no sag. I went through every compartment (which was perfectly clean with no shavings, which I can't even say about the Lund) and the carpet is all tight and secure. I stood my 260lbs on the gunnel of every boat and this felt as sturdy as any, and I imagined my daughter up there jumping off the side into the water...pop up cleats so as to not snag her foot and carpet for a no slip surface. The fishing deck is huge...I can lay across it and there is tons of storage. 38 gallon livewell in the rear. I'm glad I took a second look after looking at all the others, and I think this may be the boat I purchase. It may not be the boat for Lake Michigan, but it seems to be most suited for my needs. Thanks for all the advice folks. I am still going to look around for a week or two, and maybe look at the Starcraft one more time.

[boat nut]

Just wanted to change the title. Have a great Christmas sitting in your new boat.

[I Walleye]

I bet if a guy is willing to drive a few more miles he could get one heck of a deal on last years boat. I bet the dealers that are sitting on last years boats are really getting nervous.

[DRAG]

They are all sitting on last year's boats around here. I was lucky to find any 2008 models. Most of them were 07s, and one boat I looked at was an 04...never titled :blush:

There are certainly good deals in other places, and I don't mind driving. Though, there is something to be said for having a local dealer service a boat that you bought there.

[orchard frank]

Can only think of one more thing to add to all the great advise offered. Buy the boat that you want now. Buying a "starter boat" is usually a costly venture. All the research you have done has no doubt put your dream machine in your mind, buy that one, whether it is new or used, aluminum or glass. Have input from your family and get one that turns your crank and puts a smile on.

[Explorer]

All this research you are doing tells me you want quality for your hard earned dollar. I put allot of time in to buying a boat also. If you decide to buy aluminum, buy a LUND. I am now fishing out of my second Lund. I sold my first Lund in one week. Great quality along with great resale. Good Luck with your purchase.

[sandylee]

I looked at the same boats on your final list along with Crestliner this past winter and ended up choosing a G3 V185F with a F150. I would have choosen the Lund Fisherman or Tyee if they would have been a little closer in price as my last boat was a 17' Lund that I liked alot and I sold it quickly for more than the book price. But for almost $7,000 less for the G3 equipped the same, a great warranty and a Yamaha company that is known for great customer service, I went with the G3 and have been very happy with the boat. Lots of storage, good stability in rough water and the F150 is my first four stroke that powers the boat well even the hull is rated for up to a 200 hp. I think the resell value of the G3's will get better as more are sold in North Country as more dealers are added and more boats are sold up here. Good luck in choosing your your new boat. I would recommend a G3 if the price is right.

[DRAG]

All this research you are doing tells me you want quality for your hard earned dollar. I put allot of time in to buying a boat also. If you decide to buy aluminum, buy a LUND. I am now fishing out of my second Lund. I sold my first Lund in one week. Great quality along with great resale. Good Luck with your purchase.

If we were in the middle of spring and I was looking to fish next weekend, I wouldn't have taken this time to research. I am impulsive. Lucky for me, it is 14 degrees and snowing, so I have plenty of time :stirthepot:

While bang for buck is certainly on everyone's mind when they make a purchase, I am all about build quality and funtionality on the water. I am coming into this with a clean slate and minimal previous opinions or bias for any boat. I grew up on boats, but this is my first, and for the last 10 years I have been drag racing around the country. I look forward to a stress free weekend of fishing as opposed to a pure stress weekend of racing where one engine costs more than this little boat I am purchasing.

If G3 is a "starter boat" compared to other premium brands, I must commend Yamaha for building a boat so well as to fool me into considering it amongst the premium aluminum boats.

[DW]

Mr. Guest,

An aspect of your decision making process that hasn't been discussed very much is the layout options of the various boats.

You are looking in the 17 to 18 foot range and presumably you are looking exclusively at dual console, full windshield designs. The bottom line is that the boat interior of this type of design is small. Consequently, my recommendation is that you also consider the subtle variations of interior layouts. I also have a 17 foot dual console, full windshield design, and I picked the boat that I felt created the greatest efficiency. While I fish by myself, I also cruise and fish with a lot people. So, getting passengers spread out within the boat is a key objective while maintaining space to move

To achieve this objective, I think the rear deck and seat pedestal configuration is most import. The most common configuration that I use, is a bow chair (not used when running), two chairs behind the windshield and one chair on the side (not the center) of the rear deck. This configuration allows movement within the boat, and allows two fisherman on the back deck.

In order to do this configuration, and allow the most flexibility, I suggest seven seat pedestal positions: one bow, four floor, and two rear deck.

The key in my mind is the rear deck configuration. In order to have the greatest flexibility, and the flow that I described, I suggest a rear deck that goes all the way back to the transom, avoiding a splash well that extends all across the transom. With two seat pedestals on each side, seated or standing fisherman have plenty of room. This design eliminates the feasibility of jump seats. Another advantage is that it maximizes storage and the live well. Now some say a full splash well is a necessity, but I don't see the need, and don't think you can afford to cut off a foot of interior space in a small boat. Go with a 25 inch transom and your safe even with a big four stroke. For seating, a nice big rear deck seats four big adults confortably when the seats are removed, or two to three when one rear seat on the rear deck is in place

[staylor]

I started boating back in the early 1960s- and over the years I've gone from wood to glass to aluminum, back to glass, and back to aluminum again- and 3 out of the 4 aluminum boats I've owned were Starcrafts. Your're doing most of the things I do to check out a hull, and here in the Buffalo area we put a premium on solid hulls due to the rough water on the big lakes- and there are a lot of Starcrafts around here. I currently have an '02 Superfisherman 176 SC that has been nearly flawless since I bought it new. Other than tightening a few screws in the console over the years nothing has gone wrong. Mine came with pedestals that I thought were too long, and I found shorter pedestal tubes readily available- this handled the bow seat nicely for me. I also wanted to drop the drivers seat down so I was fully behind the windscreen, so I simply took the drivers pedestal tube and cut it down to about 8 inches in length- this worked great, and took only a couple of hours work with a hacksaw, power drill, and some files during the winter. One of the things that I look for in hulls for rough water is the deadrise angle in the bottom at the transom, and the deadrise in the bow at the point where the straight section of the bottom begins. These 2 angles are important, since a sharper entry and transom angle will give a smoother ride. Much of the old story about glass being smoother riding than aluminum is simply that glass boats usually have more deadrise than an equivalent aluminum. But with the most of the Starcrafts this is not the case- they have deadrise angles just about the same as equivalent glass boats and in my experience they ride just as well, and ride quieter than some of the more flexible glass boats. Are they as good in ride and as quiet as a hand laid full balsa core offshore style deep vee glass hull- absolutely not- but they are close- and require a lot less maintenance than any other boat I've owned- which today totals 3 Starcrafts and 9 others.
Doug

[teaser]

Excellent suggestions and advice given by the posters...lots of good experience. I don't know if this comment has been made yet, but glass boats are only about 7-10% heavier in weight, but consider the beam width that actually sits in the water.

Try to get the handle on how you generally plan to fish and detrermine the best layout for your needs. Sounds crazy, but if necessary, prepare a list of pros and cons for your finalists. If you are in for the long haul, buy quality. There are excellent deals available.

Have fun.

Terry

[tony two toes]

Make sure you have the transom welds on a G3 checked before you buy one. I know the 2007 20' tourney models had a major weld issue that resulted in a steady leak at the transom. A pro angler on the G3 team was disallowed to fish a tourney on Bay De Noc due to his boat being deemed unsafe for the conditions

[b.jay]

i own a g3 angler v165 with a 90 h.p. and love fishing out of this boat. also g3 has very good customer service. however, the bear trailer under a g3 is a little difficult to load because the 2 bottom boards are to close to each other. g3 is a great boat and i can only beleive that they'll be more popular up north with more dealers. i can say one thing about g3, theirs not much difference than the lund except price. solidly built. good quality.

[SUPERTROLLER]

I was looking at boats a few years ago and Stratos also makes a line that closely resembles the Ranger Reatta series. The good news is/was that they were far lower in price than the comparable Reatta's of the same size. They had the jump seats in the back and I really liked the layout of this boat as compared to others. They were not true Fish and Ski model, more of a family friendly fishing boat. They had a nice high side that would take any big waves you would encounter, within reason of course. I don't remember the name or numbers right now off the top of my head but thought since you liked your last Stratos that you might want to at least check out the possiblility. I bought a used Ranger that better fit my budget but have always remembered that Stratos. Check'em out online first and see if maybe that's something you'd like to look at.

One note, I saw where you said one of the steering wheels felt low and on your lap. My buddy's boat is like that and it's still a pain every time you sit behind the wheel. I suppose you could lower the seat post, as someone else did, but you're a big guy. Do you really want to have to sit lower behind the console and have to struggle every time you want to stand back up? It's all part of the layout. If it doesn't feel right now, it certainly isn't going to feel good at the end of a day of fishing either! Good luck in finding the right boat for you.

[K Gonefishin]

I agree I have seen this Stratos up close in person and crawled around them, they are a huge rig with tons of open floor space, if I were to purchase an 18 fter this would be tops on my list, they are shockingly affordable as well and have alot of value for what you get. I know a guy who has one that's rigged up for Erie walleye fishing and he really likes the boat alot.

http://www.stratosboats.com/modelIntro.cfm?mid=5558

[DRAG]

I agree I have seen this Stratos up close in person and crawled around them, they are a huge rig with tons of open floor space, if I were to purchase an 18 fter this would be tops on my list, they are shockingly affordable as well and have alot of value for what you get. I know a guy who has one that's rigged up for Erie walleye fishing and he really likes the boat alot.

http://www.stratosboats.com/modelIntro.cfm?mid=5558

That looks like a really nice boat. I'm going to try to find one to see in person. Thanks.

[Focker]

A never ending favorite on walleye central sure to make a long thread. This one has stayed to helping the original poster with HIS thoughts, so I promise, I won't hijack it.
T-Mac is one of the most respected posters on this deal, he's given me a ton of free info and probably didn't even know it. So, I won't disagree with him at all, especially if you have your heart set on aluminum, I will just add a qualifier, to expand on his advice of "add a couple lund models".(stock market beat me up today too T-Mac) And p.s., I'm a glass guy, but I wasn't always.
I would tell you it's mostly true, glass is softer/drier etc. I've been in cheap and pricey aluminum and glass. I've definitely had boats whose "very best feature" was how it looked on the trailer and playing in it on dry land. Specific to Lund, and the Tyee. I can't remember what T-Mac is currently driving, my guess would be it's one of the more recent lund
Pro-V's with IPS hull. I'm only familiar with 20 footers, 2025 2010pro guide, so I have some idea what the shorter ones are like. I've been beat to death and soaked in tyee's and 21 foot baron magnums. The more recent designs are different, they act more like glass, so give them a good look. In my humble opion, the tyee line may qualify and one of those whose best feature is sittin' in it on the trailer on dry land. And there's the point. I know at my house everything just got covered in ice and then buried in snow, but when the lakes thaw, gotta drive em, and fish out of em to know for sure. You said your lake was rough, so wait for the wind to blow, I've sure been stunned at how different the world seems then. good luck

[jasontrucks76]

Drag,

I am impressed at your forethought and investigation in making this purchase! I spent several hours on this site and looking in every boat available to me when making my last purchase as well. I am a 270# 6’2” fella as well and I understand completely when you say “the steering wheel is too low” and “the deck bows when you stand on it”……
If I may inter my humble opinion into your consideration, I would ask you to take a look at the Skeeter ZX or WX series also.
I like you grew up in pleasure boats but never owned one till the day my so called friend took me Walleye fishing and we limited out three of us in an hour… I say so called friend cause that day has cost me several thousands of dollars and quite a few “discussions” with the wife now that I am completely hooked on fishing.
Anyway I have an 18’ Lund fisherman and really loved the boat! It was equipped with a 150 Johnson, 9.9 Johnson and all the goodies you can think of. Construction was top notch and durability was great. The reason I had a wandering eye was I have 4 kids and like to use my boat for pleasure as well. The Lund was ok for pleasure use but not big enough. So I went out to look at the 1950 Tyee and after several weeks I came home with the Skeeter ZX2050. I would encourage you to at least give them a look since you are being soooooo thorough in your search what is one more to look at.
I will tell you from my experience now…. If I had to buy another boat next week the new WX would be in the top 3…(Lund, Skeeter, Ranger) Keep in mind to look at the clasified section of this site. This time of year you are sure to find some real deals on used!

Take Care and good luck with your search!

JT

[DRAG]

I got in touch with my local dealer rep to find out who in the area would have a 386XF and he is going to take me down to the Stratos factory. We shall see.

[dorty1983]

I agree with R72 on the horsepower. Don't make the mistake and not max out the boat on H.P. Also remember to keep in mind re-sale value. Right now you probably think you'll keep the boat forever but chances are good you won't. I've had 4 Rangers from a tiller in 1989 to a 690,619 and a 617 I just sold. And they were all used as fishing and family boats. I have family members that have aluminum boats and road in all kinds and I personaly would never own one. But that's my opinion. I truly believe fiberglass is more superior in every aspect of a boat. Whether you buy a Ranger,Skeeter,Yar Craft or what. Keep in mind If you keep the boat for quite a while,how's it gonna be looks wise and structurally at the end of 7-10 years. My 2 cents says go with a Ranger 1760-1860 Angler or a Reata. Good Luck and your family and you will never be sorry you got the boat! Glenn

[jcfishing]

There are a lot of boat manufacturers these days and a lot of boats are branded under different names but they are manufactured by the same company and sometimes at the same plant. IMHO glass is the way to go. I've owned several aluminum boats and they served me well. I'm on my third glass boat and they have served me better! The Ranger Reatta and Angler series are a tough act to beat for multi purpose, multi species fishing. They may cost a little more, but I can tell you first hand (I own a Ranger 619VS) that the quality and performance of their boats is second to none. They also command a very high resale price. If you still want to go aluminum I would lean towards Lund. Again, they cost a little more, but you get what you pay for. I have several friends who own them and I've fished out of several of their models. However, I'm a diehard Ranger owner and I believe that glass simply offers more of everything. Another important consideration is the brand of outboard available on a given brand of boat. I 've had great luck with Yamaha Outboards over the years. Some boat builders only offer certain outboards, so this may also influence your decision. When you consider
price,value,performance,reputation,warranty, and resale value Ranger is a tough act to beat!

[2Labs]

You have gotten good advice and are doing a good job thinking things out. Like T-Mac said, "Enjoy the process of buying" as well as the use of the boat after you bought it.

Here are some things to think about when you are buying a new boat (I am on my 3rd boat -- got started fishing late in my life for a number of reasons). This list is a compilation of my own ideas plus those the folks on WC added to my list when I asked for help just like you are doing. I have also added to the list as I read comments on this board about what people like and dislike about their boat.

But, seeing as you are being deliberate, you might want to start thinking about these things also.

I assume other posters can still find items to add to this list.

BOAT ITSELF
-- dual consoles with windscreens (WTW instead?? If so, use stainless steel bolts and stainless steel lock washers to mount!)
-- tilt wheel
-- Wave Wackers???
-- travel cover fitting over trolling motor, wind screens, and Wave Wackers with snaps. Top Gun material only.
-- on-board 2-bank charger
-- 2 extra air pedestals (4-total if 2 come with the boat)
-- 4 seats
-- gray with gray carpeting (beige shows worm dirt too readily)
-- snap-out carpeting
-- hydraulic power steering if 150 hp or larger engine
-- cargo nets
-- canopy??
-- black rubber stoppers that will fit all exterior holes in boat for emergency in case a hose breaks inside the boat plumbing systems (purchase stoppers later at a hardware store)
-- remote oil fill if 2-stroke engine
-- polyethylene plate on transom for stern transducer mounting
-- trim button added to bow for main motor trim up
-- stainless steel rails for mounting GPS, rod holders, etc. Avoids holes in gunnels.
-- Combo auto/manual bilge pump. Manual-only bilge is a pain if you leave the boat in the water during 2-week trips to Canada. Night rains/squalls nearly sunk mine one night at the dock.
-- Verify max overall length with engine down and trailer tongue open (if garage
space is an issue)


TROLLING MOTOR
- 80# 60" shaft Minnkota Terrova with universal transducer
-- release bracket
-- Ram mount holder for the head


MAIN ENGINE
- Max out main motor hp
-- Yammy and Merc no longer use "model years". Specify "to have been manufactured after such-and-such date to get most current model" for resale value.
-- boat show 5 year warranty
-- travel cover
-- 1 set extra spark plugs (the $15 each variety)
-- stainless steel prop
-- aluminum spare prop
-- replace anode under cavitation plate with flat one or make sure it is pointed correctly by setup people. If the "fin" is not set up properly this will make your steering wheel lock up at higher speeds.



KICKER
-- Mounted on port side??
-- Yamaha T-8 kicker. Or Merc 9.9? Get EFI if available. Starting T-8 is a pain as it is cold blooded. (Like my T-8 but it is a pain to start.)
-- console controls and steering for kicker?
-- make sure to put a model year and “manufactured after date xx/xx/xx” on the order for all engines.
-- Transom saver for kicker??

TRAILER
-- Trailer with 25% rating above your max load including gas, batteries, fishing gear, stuff hauled in boat for Canada trips, etc.
-- Goodyear Marathon tires but NOT the ones made in China. Cooper and Canadian Tire have a good reputation also.
-- swing-tongue
-- brakes
-- LiquiLube oil bath bearings
-- guide bunks/poles
-- boat buckle tie downs
-- spare tire mounted on side of trailer with lock
-- “gravel-tough” paint job. Get galvanized next time??
-- scissors jack and 2x4’s as needed. Check to make sure the scissors jack works (does jack compress enough to get under trailer with tire flat? does jack go high enough to mount new tire?)



ELECTRONICS:
-- two color locators each to go on a Johnny Ray (correct name) swivel. One on bow, one on console. Or use locator/mapping combo units?
-- Mapping GPS on a Johnny Ray (correct name) swivel. Mount puck. Consider two ... large one on console, smaller on bow?
-- marine radio??? Or use cell phones or FRS’s.
-- NMEA hookup??



Then at pickup, check …
-- boat for scratches, gouges
--Boat lighting works properly
--TM operation, location, proper size
--tire pressure on trailer
--trailer lights work when plugged into my truck
--trailer brakes work
--back-up over-ride on brakes works properly
--trailer spare has proper inflation
--wheel bearing lube (if bearing buddies etc).
--bilge pump works properly
--proper drain plug in the bilge
--spare drain plug is wire- tied to something near the bilge(tiller arm on my boat)
--Fuel gauge if it has internal tank
--speedo
--tach
--sonar/gps
--tilt and trim
--TM batteries connected properly
--on-board charger
--marine radio works


BEFORE you leave on a long trip to pick up, call the dealer and get assurance that EVERYTHING has been installed per your agreement and the boat is 100% ready to go

Make sure you take the receiver hitch with the right sized ball.
Make sure you have the correct light wiring adaptor.
Make sure you know the correct make and grade of motor oil and lower unit.
Make sure the brake system has no air in it (cannot compress the activator by holding the winch stand and pushing your knee into the coupler).
Make sure you can back the trailer uphill if it has brakes (if not, you have the wrong wiring connector).


IF YOU CHOOSE A GLASS BOAT --
Glassed-on Hamby keel guard
Live well pump out??
Ladder on starboard side??

[oscar]

Hello, I'm new here as well and also in the same situation as Drag. I was wandering if, since it is getting close to a couple of boat shows in my area (OH,PA), if it was possible to get a better deal from the sales teams at these shows? Have heard both pros and cons and looking for assistance. Thanks.

[doubleheader]

If you are reasonably handy and enjoy tinkering I'd be patient and look for a quality used boat. That said i wouldn't probably buy anything more than 4 years old. With the direction of this economy, there will be a lot of boats to choose from. I own a Crestliner, I've also owned a Lund, but I truly think the upper end of the Alumacraft line is a really good value. I helped my friend last year in his new boat search and he bought a 185 Tournament sport from Lannes Marine. Now mind you we're in western PA, but he saved a bunch by driving to Minnesota, and the rigging was first rate. Like others said, don't skimp on the horsepower. One reason to buy aluminum is based on how you will use your boat. We fish a number of Canadian lakes and while I try hard to stay off the reefs, inevitably I'll get one or two a year. Not sure how the fibergalss would hold up to that but my aluminum boats haven't leaked yet.

[T Mac]

Hello, I'm new here as well and also in the same situation as Drag. I was wandering if, since it is getting close to a couple of boat shows in my area (OH,PA), if it was possible to get a better deal from the sales teams at these shows? Have heard both pros and cons and looking for assistance. Thanks.

You will get "boat show" incentives...such as a special fianance offering.

You will get a shot at the "carry-overs"...Those "one-of-a-kind deals" on last year's left-over new boats which the dealer has in stock. These wil be priced as low as possible.

The factories will have incentives, as well.

[buckmyster]

hey, been there. i have had 4 boats. 1st,15 ft. alumicraft w/ 25 mariner. great little boat. 2nd, 17ft. sylvan pro-select w/ 90 merc. this boat i took on lake mi. brown trolling in 4 to 5ft.ers and felt vary safe for small boat. had long nose and high freeboard. i live in northern mi. 3rd, 17 ft. crestliner fishhawk w/ 90 merc. no freeboard. solid in small chop but watch for boat wakes. WOW!!! took out on lk. mi. once, turned around at harbor mouth and put back on trailer scared!!!! now own a 17ft. tuffy osprey w/ 150 merc. if you haven't looked at this boat,LOOK!!! take this 17ft.out 20 miles salmon fishing in 4 ft.ers many times. this thing is solid on waves. can do 50 per hr. on 2 ft.chop without looking at water. hull reenforced with kevlar. all glass boats are smoother cause shape of hull, no flat areas like backs of aluminum boats. the only other being tundra. wind also doesn't push glass around when fishing like lighter " boats. go on nextbite and do search, pros on there mention getting beat to he.. in pro v's in big water.

[Boat]

I have owned in order a Lund...Warrior....Stratos...Ranger. The 620 Ranger is hands down the best boat that I have ever owned. It does take a little water over the front if trolling into the wind but I can live with that.

[Grampa_Joe]

T, why would you compare a Pro V to a fish and ski??? If that's the case, a 620 has way more storage than a Lund 1850 Tyee. Jus sayin.

Guest, make sure you weigh in on the facts. Go to KBB.com and find out for yourself what the black and white facts are on resale values, you don't live in the middle of nowhere like TMac. By all means go look at some boats at reputable dealerships and ask them questions, get up in the boats and look around.
Fiberglass does in fact ride better in rough water than aluminum, because fiberglass can handle more dead rise. Stand in front of an aluminum boat and a fiberglass boat and you tell me which one looks more like a tub? The fiberglass simply cuts through the water better. The fact is, that incessant pounding on aluminum boats is what causes your teeth to come loose, and every screw in the floor of the boat as well. (T Mac, I’ve owned several Pro V’s) The fact is you can’t get the strength out of aluminum if you go past a certain angle or it won’t hold up.
If you’re looking for a boat with no wood in it, stop looking at the Skeeter 1880 or ANY aluminum boat. Same goes for plastic compartments.
While you’re looking at those compartments, notice they are typically welded aluminum lids. What does aluminum do in the sun? How about nice radiuses on all the corners of your fiberglass lids so they stay cool and the carpet doesn’t wear out on the sharper edges? Notice how sturdy the fiberglass lid is in comparison, notice the length of the piano hinges, are they the whole length of the lid, or just enough to get by? Which one is going to last longer?
Given the price point and size boat you’re talking, some come standard with hydraulic steering over no feedback, most do not. Some come standard with everything but gas prop to prop, some nickel and dime you to the same price or in some cases more money.
You talk quite a bit about the solid feel of the boats you’re looking at, I have a mission for you. Go look at that Ranger 1750 one more time and feel inside the compartments, just push down on them and compare that to the other boats you’re looking at. I typically stand my little 210# in the cooler and hop up and down, but I don’t know your dealer. Ha ha. Other than right down the center of the boat because we need drainage, the whole boat is filled with closed cell (won’t absorb water) foam. It is a structural part of the boat from the top, and the bottom. When you crash into a wave with your previous boats did you feel that give of the bow flexing? Doesn’t happen with a foam filled boat.
Good luck in your search! You’re right, I can’t come up with any reasons to buy an aluminum boat. Heck, my little boat is a 1987 Ranger tiller and it looks great and everything works on it! How many people do you know that have a 1987 still in service today that gets used a lot??

Joe Carlson

[experience]

Boat Control is the one thing that most boat buyers forget to put high on their list of priorities when buying a boat.

After owning a fiberglass boat that didn't have much storage, I switched to a new highly touted aluminum boat. The lay out was great, but any time the wind blew over 5 mph it was a pain to control. Couldn't wait to get rid of that boat. I ended up with a new 07 620 Ranger and it is hands down the easiest boat to control in the wind!

It was an expensive lesson! The least costly boat that I ever ran was the one I bought used. So my advice to you would be to go find yourself a used Ranger for the same price as any new aluminum boat that you find. Trust me, you'll never be happier!