Chipped Skeg - Repair or Not?

[Munshaw]

Hello,

Have been lurking on the site since the purchase of my new walleye boat this fall (2002 Alumacraft Navigator with a 60 Merc 4 Stroke Tiller) but this is my first time posting. Gleaned A LOT of information from the huge amount of posts here - but I couldn't find an answer to this:

The motor has a quarter-to-loonie (Canadian eh?) sized chip out of the tip of the skeg. I have a friend who is a machinist who could fix it, or should I just leave it? I'd rather not risk heating up the lower unit if I don't have to, but I'm unsure if a chip affects performance if it's not bent? If it doesn't affect performance, I'm thinking of just filing it down to a nice taper and painting it.

On another note - was able to get the boat out twice before snow and ice set in here (have been ice fishing for three weeks already in Thunder Bay) and the first fish in the boat was a nice 24" walleye - she started life on a good note!

[went522]

I personally would leave it, a ding that size won't effect performance. At most I would file it down, get some merc paint from the dealer and spray it quick. Chances are your going to ding it again. I'm missing 1/3rd of mine...no biggy just filed it(dremel) and painted it. If it makes you feel better to have it perfect, get it repaired.

BIRDDOG

[Hot Runr Guy]

there are products available called Skeg Shield and Skeg Gard, that cover-up the damaged area. Here's the links.
http://www.keelshield.com/skegshield.html
http://www.diversified-marine.biz/catalog.php/pmcparts/pg3340
Welcome to Walleye Central.
HRG

[EYECRAZY]

I put one of the skeg gaurds on my Rude. Simple to install & looks pretty sharp. Steve
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0045363019194a&navCount=0&podId=0045363&parentId=cat420002&masterpathid=&navAction=jump&cmCat=null-cat420002&catalogCode=IJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat420002&cmCat=netcon&cm_ven=netcon&cm_cat=N/A&cm_pla=N/A&cm_ite=netcon&rid=0180101070502

[jokerjim]

I repaired a chip in the leading edge of my skeg with JB weld. Sanded it down and painted it with Merc. paint. It has held up for four years so far.

[Munshaw]

I repaired a chip in the leading edge of my skeg with JB weld. Sanded it down and painted it with Merc. paint. It has held up for four years so far.

I was thinking the same thing with the J.B. weld. It's only a small chip, and I have a tube of the J.B. weld aluminum repair for filling in some old transducer mounting holes in the transom. I'll probably give it a try, and if not just file it right down. I have more important things to spend $$$ than a skeg guard. Going to need a new bow mount trolling motor first! (limited $$$) Seems like it wouldn't be required for such small damage. I don't care so much about the appearance, just wanted to make sure it wasn't aversely affecting its performance.

[perchjerker]

I would do the fill job with jb weld or marinetex or something

the thing I worry about with those skeg guards is what happens when you smack it rock or something? Is it going to break the lower unit case where the holes for it are drilled?

I would rather have something with some give to it.

[dewyg]

I had the same issue last year, put on the stainless skeg gaurd and it never looked better. No change in performance plus it looks snazzy.

[T Mac]

The way you describe it... it just effects the looks.
So, it depends on how fussy you are on the looks...whether to fix or not

I'd have it done by a prop and skeg shop if I was gonna fix it.
.....Just my opinion.

[propmann]

I've seen a couple of lowerunits come in over the years that have had the skeg guard on. You could also see the gears in the case through the hole they create when you hit something. Something got too give... Either have it fix by a pro or just leave it. Depends how picky you are.

[Munshaw]

Not very picky - the sight of it doesn't bother me. I was just curious if there would be a performance/steering loss. I know the slightest ding in a prop causes serious issues, but I'm guessing that's a balance thing.

[DW]

I would do the fill job with jb weld or marinetex or something

the thing I worry about with those skeg guards is what happens when you smack it rock or something? Is it going to break the lower unit case where the holes for it are drilled?

I would rather have something with some give to it.

I broke my skeg completely off, and repaired it with a skeg guard instead of a conventional skeg repair. After the guard was added, I again hit a rock while on plane and the skeg guard was badly bent and partially torn and had to be replaced. The front bolt which is one of two bolts connecting the skeg guard to the upper skeg was sheared. The holes drilled into the stump of my broken skeg where left intact.

Based on this experience I don't think a skeg guard adds to the risk of damaging the lower case. The bolts are actually fairly small diameter and will break more easily than a regular skeg, so overall, I think a skeg guard is weaker than a regular skeg.

The advantage of using a skeg guard is that it can easily be repaired (by the manufacturer) or replaced, and the repair can be done by a boatowner, reducing the hassle and cost of conventional skeg repair.

By the way, when I buy a new motor, I will add a skeg guard first thing to protect that nice new skeg.

[perchjerker]

I broke my skeg completely off, and repaired it with a skeg guard instead of a conventional skeg repair. After the guard was added, I again hit a rock while on plane and the skeg guard was badly bent and partially torn and had to be replaced. The front bolt which is one of two bolts connecting the skeg guard to the upper skeg was sheared. The holes drilled into the stump of my broken skeg where left intact.

Based on this experience I don't think a skeg guard adds to the risk of damaging the lower case. The bolts are actually fairly small diameter and will break more easily than a regular skeg, so overall, I think a skeg guard is weaker than a regular skeg.

The advantage of using a skeg guard is that it can easily be repaired (by the manufacturer) or replaced, and the repair can be done by a boatowner, reducing the hassle and cost of conventional skeg repair.

By the way, when I buy a new motor, I will add a skeg guard first thing to protect that nice new skeg.

thats good to know

thanks

[REW]

If you want to do a neat repair with JB weld, execute the following.

Obtain some clear packaging tape.

Clean the area that needs to be repaired. If there are weak, or broken bits, take them out of the skeg.

Take a piece of packaging tape and tape the back side of the skeg where the repair is to be located.

Mix up a batch of JB weld and place the epoxy on the cavity. Try to mix up enough to completely fill the crack with very little extra.

Then, place another piece of tape on the frontside of the skeg. If you put the right amount of epoxy in the cavity, you will fill the cavity - but not have it overhang the undamaged area. You will be able to completely see the repair through both sides of the tape. Hopefully, you have it right the first time. If not, quickly pull off the tape on one side and then refill with the correct amount.

If you do this right, you will have a repair with no sanding required.

------
The same technique works to repair cracks in Gel coat or other pieces that are to be repaired with epoxy. Use tape as backing and front brace- and see the repair through the tape. The packing tape leaves a glass smooth surface on the epoxy.

Take care
REW

[ohiojmj]

Skeggards are attached to the skeg with two little two piece stainless screws. They shear of and the $100 Skeggard gets chopped by the prop or falls to the bottom before damaging the gear case by trsnferring too much load. They look nice, help steer, but add no strength to be concerned about.

[MPW]

I have a skegguard on my Yamaha F150. I chipped and bent the skeg a few years back. I filed the chips out of the skeg and straighten the skeg with a rubber mallet added the Skegguard. It has saved my skeg several times, It finally got so dented that I took it off and beat back in shape and put it back on. The bolts are made of soft stainless steel which should break before the skeg does. If you use your boat where it's shallow and rocky this is a good product.

[yarcraft91]

My first boat (used) had the entire skeg broken off. I had a new one welded on and ran the boat for several years after that- no big deal for a shop that knows its business.