Yamaha F150

[bob1]

Ranger Reata 1850VS

I have a Yamaha F150 Four Stroke and need to change the oil and filter, change the lower unit lube, check the fuel filter, check the prop to see if any line behind it, and change plugs.

Do most of you use a torque wrench as mentioned in the manual?

Any tips on doing any of these maintenance procedures?

The manual does not list the oil filter number or how to change it. Only how to change the oil.
I could probably look at the one on the motor, but find this strange.

I cannot believe the amount of controversy over what brand of oil and oil filter to use on different web-sites!

Any other tips for regular maintenance of this motor would be appreciated!

I do not winterize my motor as I use it all year. Our lakes here in Northern Arkansas do not freeze over.

Thanks, Bob

[big_crappie]

[QUOTE=bob1;1086631]Ranger Reata 1850VS

I have a Yamaha F150 Four Stroke and need to change the oil and filter, change the lower unit lube, check the fuel filter, check the prop to see if any line behind it, and change plugs.

Do most of you use a torque wrench as mentioned in the manual?

Any tips on doing any of these maintenance procedures?

The manual does not list the oil filter number or how to change it. Only how to change the oil.
I could probably look at the one on the motor, but find this strange.

I cannot believe the amount of controversy over what brand of oil and oil filter to use on different web-sites!

Any other tips for regular maintenance of this motor would be appreciated!

I do not winterize my motor as I use it all year. Our lakes here in Northern Arkansas do not freeze over.



Oil Filter Part# 69J-13440-01 Put a rag under the filter to catch spilling oil.
5.7 Qts of Yamalube 5W-30 is the capacity. Do not overfil the oil. Anywhere on the x's on the dipstick is fine. Start with 5 qts and check from there. The lower unit holds 33oz of lower unit lube. Replace the lower unit plug gaskets also everytime (cheap insurance). I recommend all Yamaha products (I am a dealer) but personally I would use them even if I wasn't. The spark plugs do not need to be replaced every year. In fact there is no reason they should not last 3-5 years. I recommend running Ring Free in your fuel. It keeps the carbon down which will keep performance and fuel economy up. Fuel filter on motor is not very effective. You should have an external 10 micron inline filter installed if there is not one allready.

[bob1]

Big Crappie, thanks for the input.

What fuel filter would you recommend?

This is a 2006 boat and motor I bought the middle of last year. Even after using it, it probably only has about 40 hours on the motor. Should I change the plugs to be safe?

Should I remove the prop and check?

I have been using Sea Foam in the gas. I could change to Ring Free though.

Thanks, Bob

[big_crappie]

On a 4 stroke the spark plugs would be the last thing I would be worried about. If it is running fine leave them alone. Start looking at them when there is 3-4 hundred hours. As far as the fuel filter the Yamaha # is MAR-SEPAR-AT-OR this is a complete assembly. The filter itself will have to be replaced every 100 hours after that. Seafoam is a decent product but I would add Ring Free to my arsenal especially if you do any trolling with the big motor. You only need 1oz of Ring Free for 10 Gal of gas. Seafoam is 1oz per Gal according to the label. Use Ring Free and Stabil together and you will stay out of the shop. Good luck.
P.S. yes remove the prop often and check for fish line. A little line can cause the seals to leak and lower unit problems to happen. Prop is easy to take off and put back on so I do mine at least once a month or more if I fish alot.

[bob1]

I do not troll with the big motor.

OK, a couple of last questions.

Do I leave the existing gas filter in the bowl?

Manual says to clean it with solvent. What solvent?

What kind of grease do you put on the the prop shaft?

Thanks again, Bob

[went522]

Here's a very helpful tip...when changing the oil on the F150 it can get quite messy, once you remove the drain plug oil will dump all over your lower unit. Go up to your local dealer and pick up a piece of the 3/4" ID. rubber bilge hose, the quality stuff, NOT the plastic corrugated stuff. You'll need a piece about 24"-30" in length. The 3/4" ID rubber bilge hose slides inside the rubber boot that surrounds the drain plug and fits snug.

Tilt the motor all the way up, get your drain plug loose, have the bilge hose ready...remove the plug and quickly slide the hose onto the rubber boot, tilt the motor back down till level. Remove the oil fill cap. No more messy oil changes!!

If you havn't changed the oil on your motor yet, your about to find out what a mess it can make!! Get the hose, it works.

Oil...doesn't have to be "Yamaha"! I personally use Penzoil. You like trop arctic, use it, you like...use it. As long as meets motor specs, it's fine.

If you don't have a water/fuel seperator installed...install one!!


BIRDDOG

[Bill Krejca]

When you drain the crankcase, tilt the motor up and down, waiting a bit in between . You will get another cup or so of oil out this way. Do not over fill the new oil.

Bill Krejca

[big_crappie]

I do not troll with the big motor.

OK, a couple of last questions.

Do I leave the existing gas filter in the bowl?

Manual says to clean it with solvent. What solvent?

What kind of grease do you put on the the prop shaft?

Thanks again, Bob


Change the filter on the engine that way you know it is fresh. After installing the 10 micron inline filter you should not have to touch the motor mounted one for a long time unless you get a hold of some very poor fuel. A solvent could be carb cleaner. Any grease will work on the prop shaft but of course Yamaha recommends their grease. If you are greasing it often any axle grease will do. As far as using a different oil I strongly do not recommend it. Your outboard engine is not the same as your car. They run in the harsest environment including moisture and high RPM's. Conventional motor oils do not have the corrosion inhibitors nor are they formulated to keep from breaking down at 6K RPM's.
Check this out for more info http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/maintenance_matters.aspx

[big_crappie]

Here's a very helpful tip...when changing the oil on the F150 it can get quite messy, once you remove the drain plug oil will dump all over your lower unit. Go up to your local dealer and pick up a piece of the 3/4" ID. rubber bilge hose, the quality stuff, NOT the plastic corrugated stuff. You'll need a piece about 24"-30" in length. The 3/4" ID rubber bilge hose slides inside the rubber boot that surrounds the drain plug and fits snug.

Tilt the motor all the way up, get your drain plug loose, have the bilge hose ready...remove the plug and quickly slide the hose onto the rubber boot, tilt the motor back down till level. Remove the oil fill cap. No more messy oil changes!!

If you havn't changed the oil on your motor yet, your about to find out what a mess it can make!! Get the hose, it works.

Oil...doesn't have to be "Yamaha"! I personally use Penzoil. You like trop arctic, use it, you like...use it. As long as meets motor specs, it's fine.

If you don't have a water/fuel seperator installed...install one!!



BIRDDOG


I cut the bottom of an empty washer fluid jug at an angle to fit under the hose by the plug. Leave the top off of it and let it run into the drain pan. The hose trick sounds like a good idea, I will try it next tim.

[bob1]

Thanks for the replies.

Bob

[bob1]

Big Crappie,

I am looking to order a Yamaha Fuel - Water Separtator... The pictures I see on-line look like it does not have connections for a fuel line.

True? How do these Separators connect? Are instructions in the box?

Also, I would need a part # for the replacement filter for the MAR-SEPAR-AT-OR.

Do you use a torque wrench on plugs, prop nut, etc?

Thanks, Bob

[AllenW]

Big Crappie,

I am looking to order a Yamaha Fuel - Water Separtator... The pictures I see on-line look like it does not have connections for a fuel line.

True? How do these Separators connect? Are instructions in the box?

Also, I would need a part # for the replacement filter for the MAR-SEPAR-AT-OR.

Do you use a torque wrench on plugs, prop nut, etc?

Thanks, Bob


You can't hardly go wrong using one, while you can strip fittings out not using one or have them so loose they come undone.

Al

[big_crappie]

Big Crappie,

I am looking to order a Yamaha Fuel - Water Separtator... The pictures I see on-line look like it does not have connections for a fuel line.

True? How do these Separators connect? Are instructions in the box?

Also, I would need a part # for the replacement filter for the MAR-SEPAR-AT-OR.

Do you use a torque wrench on plugs, prop nut, etc?

Thanks, Bob

You will need two barbs, 1/4 threaded to 3/8 male barb. Straight or 90 degree will depend on mounting location. There are 2 inlets and 2 outlets on the housing, 2 plugs come with the filter assembly to plug off the 2 ports not used, again those will be determined by mounting location. The filter itself is part# MAR-FUELF-IL-TR. No torque wrench for prop. Turn nut til snug with a wrench than back off to get pin to line up through the castle nut. As far as plugs go they are all the same, 1/4 turn past snug no more.

[bob1]

Thanks again!

[seahorse]

Big Crappie,

Do you use a torque wrench on plugs, prop nut, etc?




No torque wrench for prop. Turn nut til snug with a wrench than back off to get pin to line up through the castle nut.


The Yamaha factory specifies a 40 ft.-lb torque on the prop nut

[big_crappie]

The Yamaha factory specifies a 40 ft.-lb torque on the prop nut

Do you carry a torque wrench in your boat?

[bob1]

bih_crappie, PM at you!

Thanks, Bob

[bob1]

I am having trouble removing my prop. The dealer that last servicec it got it on REALLY tight. I am using a 1/2" ratchet on it. I am afraid of breaking something. Can I hurt anything in the lower unit by using too much pressure?

It is not reversed threaded is it?

Also, I installed the water separator and could not pump it up with the bulb. I unscrewed the filter from the head and filled it with gas and reinstalled it. I was able to pump it up from there.

My question is, is it possible that there is an air bubble in the line somewhere? The bulb is really hard and I cannot pump it up anymore. The fuel filter bowl on the motor is about 3/4 full.

If I start the motor, will an air bubble do any harm?

Thanks, Bob

[bob1]

I checked with a local mechanic and I bought a larger 1/2" drive ratchet and got the prop off. I greased it and put it back together.

He said there should be no problem with the water separator and the motor started right up. I put it on the lake and ran it 4 or 5 miles and it ran great.

The oil and filter and lower unit fluid it now changed. No water in the lower unit. I washed and vacuumed the boat and it is now back on the lift at the lake.

Bob

[bob1]

Thanks again to those who replied to my message!

big_crappie, thanks for the PM replies!

It is great to be able to talk to fellow fishermen and boaters to get the info you need to do something!

Bob

[finatic421]

Great tip BIRDDOG for draining oil, worked out great!
Thanks,
finatic421

[spoondog47]

BoB1 I had a hard time trying to get the original oil filter off. Solution I bought an aluminum oil filter wrench cap. It fits right over the end or head of the oil filter.In the center of this oil filter cap a three eights ratchetn fits in. cost six dollars at autozone. the next time i changed the filter it was easy.Be sure to rub a little oil on the oil filter gasket before installing.

[bob1]

I applied some oil on the gasket and the threads of the filter! Worked fine.

Luckily the Fuel/Water Separator was mounted vertically and I was able to fill the filter with gas. I think I would still be priming it if I had not done this.

Bob