Modulus rateing for rods......?

[TReX300]

I've been looking for a new rod and am wondering whats the deal with the modulus rateing on rods. I've heard everything from that means directly how sensitive the rod is to how tough it is to how fast the rod transmits the feel. The rod I have now is a custom built 6'MH spinning done on a Loomis blank. I've had it for about 10years or so and I believe it was 56 or 58 million modulus. When searching for a new one I want to be able to compare things equally.

Thanks
Tim

[Rod Makeu1]

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?mode=article&objectID=29385&storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1

[Manxfishing]

Here we go

IM = Intermediate Modulus
HM = High Modulus
*****
The first thing you should know is there is no industry standard for IM6, IM7and IM8. Rather, it’s a “range” that manufacturers use to classify their rods according to the “modulus” content. Modulus is a term that describes the stiffness to weight ratio of the graphite that’s used to create the rod blank. Here’s how it works….when you cast a lure, the rod flexes with the weight of the lure, storing energy as it flexes. When the motion of the rod stops, the rod flexes and releases all of its stored energy to propel the lure. When you increase the modulus of the graphite, you increase the ability of that graphite to store and release energy. You also increase the speed that the rod releases the stored energy. That in turn, increases the lure speed that is generated in the cast. Increase the modulus and you increase the reaction speed and power of the rod blank.

Below is a general example of modulus ratings using G Loomis classes:
GLX - 65 million modulus
IMX - 55 million modulus
GL3 - 47 million modulus (IM8)
GL2 - 42 million modulus (IM7)
IM6 - 38 million modulus
Standard Graphite - 33 million modulus

Unfortunately, increased modulus results in increased costs. The highest modulus graphite material costs as much as ten times more than standard graphite. The drawback with increased modulus is the rod blank tends to be somewhat “brittle” and more likely to break from impact fracture, such as dropping the rod on a hard surface. If you tend be abusive with your gear, it would be wise to back away from the top modulus rods and choose something in the mid range that will offer more durability.

[Larry Mac]

Hello Rodmakeu1, That was the best basic rod information article I have ever read. It was great. Thank you

Larry Mac

[Mattman]

You can't compare things equally when it comes to modulus.

Company A can take IM8 fibers and roll up a rod blank. They'll add a bunch of fiberglass scrim fiber and heavy resin to the mix and make their rod. They'll label it as an IM8.

Company B can take IM6 fibers and roll up their rod blank. They'll add a carbon fiber scrim and be very conservative with the resin and make their rod. They'll label it an IM6.

I'd want the IM6 here. The IM8 even though it is of higher modulus has a bunch of glass and resin and is going to feel like a dog. The IM6 was built well and will feel nice and crisp. There isn't a straightline IM8 is 2 better than IM6.


Modulus isn't the only factor here. Take guides. I've weighed every guide model I've used. Even in looking at identical frame styles there can be efficiencies made. The Fuji Concept frame for example. A set of Alconite guides weigh X. A set of guides in the exact same frame but with SiC rings are 15% less than X. The same frame style but out of titanium and with SiC rings is 30% less than X. And Alconites are a light weight guide when it comes to factory built rods!

We still haven't touched on keeping thread wraps short and epoxy finish light and a bunch of "bling" and graphics off the rod to keep the weight down.


Bottom line...modulus is just one factor...

[Phil T]

A thing seldom mentioned is the resin used to hold the fibers together. Think of the fibers as the reinforcing rod in concrete, and the resin as the concrete mix itself. The resin may cost as much as the fiber material.
If you want a stiff (a.k.a. sensitive) rod, buy a respected "name" brand. The odds of the manufacturer using the best resins will be found there. This tidbit comes from an article about fly rods.

[Stoic Cynic]

Anyone got the modulis ratings for St. croix rods???