Lindy Rigging

[Arkie eye jerker]

All of the live bait fishing I have done for Walleye was with a Jig hook and minnow or leached bounced off the bottom. After reading about the Lindy Rigs on this site and the success that the anglers have with them I have decided to add them to my small arsenal of baits. My question is I have checked for them in Bass Pro Shops and there are all different kinds of rigs (rattlin snells, no-snag floating snells, Rigged harness, Flip'n harness and one No-snag rig kit for 19.99) If you were a novice and wanted the simple way to get acquainted with this Lindy rigging method what would be your advice?
Thanks in advance for your help.

Ed Gray

[WCoyote]

I think the easiest way for you to learn about Lindy Rigs is to go to Wal Mart and buy some geniune Lindy Rigs. Buy a variety of weight sizes. Then go fishing. You will soon get the hang of it. A Lindy Rig is simple , don't be mislead or confused by all the variations that may be available in tackle catalogs. It was a great system when the Linders came up with it and still is today.

wea

[Tom]

yes i agree go with a simple lindy rig until you get the hang of it and than expand from there, in reality i simply lindy rig may be all you ever need.





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[PJM]

Arkie eye jerker


Everyone has an opinion on different methods of lindy rigging, and these are some of mine. The first thing is the snell, and there is no standard length. I make my own which is mono in 6, 8, 10lb test I cut them to length of 12 feet. You pull one out and cut it to the lenght for what you are doing. On Millac lake on the mud you sometime long line them at 11 feet or maybe fishing rock structure you want a shorter one, so it does not get hung up in the rocks. You can put a float on it a foot from the bait to bring it off the bottom. It's all presentation and you have to find out what the fish want. Sinker weight can make a difference. If it rough maybe a 3/4 oz or calm 3/8 oz sinker. A feel for the bottom or a fish strike can also depend on the rod and a good sensitive rod helps also. With a lead sinker you can feel hitting the rocks better then a no-snag by Lindy, but the Lindy sinker get hung up less.. Boat control can be an issue, so if you are moving to fast or the sinker is dragging in the mud these are all factors in Lindy rig fishing that will in able you to get fish. I could go on and on so I hope this helps........

[stevefellegy]

"lindy" rigging is simply a sliding sinker and a leader with a plain hook/livebait attached. No need to get fancy.
Think of Lindy riggin' in these terms:
There are two basic ways to get a fish to bite. One being to feed it when hungry, the other being to create an "instinct" bite. A Lindy rig fits the 'feeding' approach. So.....Build Lindy Rigs and fish them with that in mind. Meaning....light line and small hooks, the freshest, best livebait you can find, presented VERY SLOWLY. VERY naturally. The hook should be small enough (light in weight) so as not to control the bait. The bait HAS TO control the hook. The old man said to me, 4,759,116 times, "big fish don't grow big eating things with lines and hooks attached to them". That's Lindy riggin'....

[Sunshine]

Getting started is easy. Just buy three things to see if you like it (you will) and play with different snell lengths. Hooks--I suggest Aberdeen hooks. They're inexpensive for the beginner, come in a variety of sizes and are easily straighten out of you snag. Weights-- I like using the original type walking sinkers that the Linder's made famous and barrel weights. You don't need name brand weights to get started. Going to a sport show and seeing all the inexpensive weights being poured by people will verify this. Most people use an inexpensive barrel swivel to make the snells. There's an easier way. Just buy the smallest BB weight that you can find and attach it between your hook and slip sinker. Someone may reply back and tell you that this setup will weaken your line, but I have never found this to be true and have been using this setup for 25 years. I actually think that it's better because you only have one knot and I think that the knots are the weakest link. Email me if you have more questions.

[REW]

Another alternative that works very well for lots of different folks is to use an egg sinker. Because of its relatively long length through the center hole - it is very easy on the line. The shape of the egg sinker is such that it is relatively snag free - with respect to most bottoms.

I generally never pre tie up any snells. I simply carry a spool of line - 4, 6, or 8 lb line - depending on how the fish are feeding, and what size fish that are active in the lake.

As steve suggests - smaller and "lighter" hooks are better. You need to match the size of the hook to the bait being presented. Obviously, if fihing with a big chub - a hook size of about #2 or #4 is right. If fishing a crawler or leech, then a #6 or perhaps a #8 is right.

Remember - the idea is to have the least amount of weight that won't kill the action of the bait.

The advantage - of not pretying any snells - is that you always have "fresh - non kinky snells". and you can dial in the length needed for the particular day.

I always tie a swivel on the end of the line - after threading on the egg sinker. Then, simply tie on a hunk of line - that you will think will work - muddy or dingy water - and or active fish - as short as 12 inches. If, the fish are spooky, and or the water is very clear - you might need to increase your snell length to as longas 10-12 feet.
Many folks generally fish with a "rods" length snell. Easy to stow, manage, and generally give enough spook resistance.

As Steve as said many times before -- NEVER drag your sinker on the bottom As you are drifting or back trolling - at a designated speed - drop your weight until ut just touches the bottom - then reel up a couple of feet. From time to time - drop the rod tip - to insure that the weight is well off the bottom, but can be reached by dropping the rod tip. Thus, when fishing slowly - you want minimal line out - Your line should be nearly vertical - if you are fishing slowly.

Take care

ReW

[LindyRigger]

I love to fish with Lindy Rigs. A few other pointers that have not been mentioned: 1) I use the walking sinkers, but have been using them in conjunction with quick change clevises to change the weight as needed. 2) I use a worm blower to allow the worm to float up off the bottom. 3) I often use just a bead (often red, gold etc) between the sinker and swivel. I think this helps to protect the knot and also acts as an attractor. 4) I always keep my finger on the line with the bail open to help detect bites and then let the fish have line for various counts depending on the aggressiveness of the fish before I close the bail and set the hook. This is a very productive system for almost any species of fish. Good Fishing.
LindyRigger

[rmitchel]

Does anyone ever try them anchored in the current or do you suggest trolling? I have had VERY limited success anchoring in the current while fishing in the Canada in late May. Either this is not the correct way to use the rigs or I am doing something wrong.

I do often bounce the bottom, which I do not plan to do this spring.

[Peanut]

In my experience, they work best with movement (ie: trolling). When anchored, I generally switch to a normal jig, or a floating jig. If you like the "just bait and a hook" thing, go to something like a slip bobber approach.

derrek.

CANADIAN WALLEYE OPEN UP AND SAY "EH"!

[Walleye daddy]

My most succesful approach was to drift with the wind-- letting out enough line as to not spook the fish and yet keeping about a foot off the bottom.

[Lund AnglerMJ]

I agree,use them drift fishin' and they shine. Try and get the authentic Lindy rig's,and you can't go wrong.My favorite is a floating jig head,on my rig.Orange,chaurt. or white.

[eyegetit]

I don't believe a floating jig was part of the original Lindy Rig design, but it's the only way I've fished them for over 25 years. On relatively shallow inland reservoirs it is easier to target suspending walleye by keeping the slip sinker on the bottom and varying the snell length. This puts the bait at eye level (so to speak). It also allows me to ride the bait just above the snags. Best results are while drifting.

[MNStarfish]

What do you think about putting a spinner blade on your rig?

[eyegetit]

I've never added a spinner simply because of the weight it would add to the floater. Also, the steep angle between the sinker and the floating jig does not seem well suited to a spinner.

[Schnauzer]

This is a great thread. I've seen some things that confirm I'm doing some things right and I've seen some new ideas I haven't thought of before.

I enjoy lindy rigging quite a bit. It is kind of a thrill to feel that slight tap, let the line go, pray the fish is still there, AND THEN SET THE HOOK.

My rule is: the muddier the bottom, the longer the snell. Try to keep the weight just off the bottom but not far away from it.

[LindyRigger]

Why do ya'll keep the weight off of the bottom. I never heard of this before. I always would bounce it off of the bottom trying to keep contact with the bottom, but not dragging. I seem to have a better feel when I do this. I have used light weights at times that do not make contact with the bottom and I feel "blind" when this happens. Please fill me in.

LindyRigger

[PJM]

LindyRigger

I think it all depends on where you are fishing. The only why to know where the bottom is, is to touch the bottom. That is ok but if you are in the mud or gravel dragging it might spook the fish. Also you might feel the strike better. Lets face it we have all dragged it from time to time and still caught fish. But on the other hand maybe that what the fish want is for you to drag it........

[Tommy Mac]

Arkie,

As you see there are several variations to "Lindy Rigging". To me nothing is better than feeling that 'eye rollin the crawler up in his mouth. It is indeed a simple concept, however it is complex at the same time. One of the biggest keys to becoming a succesful "rigger" is to be proficient at boat control. Controlling your boat speed and position, especially in high winds, is a must.

It might be well worth your time to hire a guide who knows this presentation well. It's surprising how many guides depend way to much on jigging, in a lot of cases almost as a sole method of catching fish. You can learn a lot in one day with a good guide.

If you do decide to hire a guide in order to learn more about live bait rigging have a list of questions ready to ask before setting a date. Some may, I do, give a good discount if the trip has more of a seminar flavor to it, ask. There is nothing better than a client who wants to learn something specific. It is surprising how many so called guides these days don't know the difference between a #6 Mustad and a #6 Daiichi. Some don't even have leeches and crawlers in their boats much less know how to snell a hook. At the same time you can learn one heck of a lot about a body of water. Rigging is one of the all time most productive and funnest ways to fish walleyes.

Good Luck!

[Skillz]

My #1 rule for lindy rigs... MAKE YOUR OWN!!!
Just like all tackle, if you go to a store and buy it, you will pay. A typical lindy rig is about $1.80 or so. If you have some time to kill, say like now.... cabin fever.... you can go and pick up a tool which will help you tie the knots. Also, floats, beads, hooks, etc. can all be bought seperate. This way, you can taylor make what you want for what conditions- blue, green, red, what pound line, snell length, etc...

I love lindy rigging. Fun way to catch 'em. You can make about 100 times more rigs for the buck than you can buying them. Nice little gift to friends too when they do nice things for you. This past fall my father and I sat down for about 2 hours and made enough to fill his box, my box, and 3 of my friends's boxes.

skz

Good fishing!

[Skillz]

Thanks steve... never really thought about that perspective. I usually like to go small and simple with my rigs. Then again, I have made some VERY unique rigs to address the curiosity/reaction bite. I will keep you old man's quote in mind for the opener...

skz

Good Fishin'!!!!

[Marble Eyes]

What size hooks do you use when you make these up? Do you make different rigs for different bait?

[Skillz]

I try to use all different sizes depending on what conditions and bait I will be using... Same with snells...

I have 3 of those "tackle buddie??" things that you roll your lindy's on. One for Floaters, one for spinners/attractants and one for smaller-worm/leech. All have various lenth snells. Thinking I will get one more, specifically for my fishing "partners" who don't have the know-how or ambition to make their own. (I hate giving the one away that ends up catching the fish...kind of a kick in the pants!!) Then I have to make one in the boat-- Ever tried to thread a bead in the dark/twilight? Then have your buddie start with the crap-talking... Whatever- better than not catching fish and sitting in front of the tv./

The tackle buddies kind of roll up your snell, but a easy way to store and transport, also pretty good holders for smaller weights- bells, split shots, etc.

I have always used the Lindy-walker type weights. Reading this thread though, I think I will move to bells now.

You can tie your own without the snell tieing deal- takes practice. Pops always does this, while I like the tool. His turn out better because he has patience (else more practice).

skz

Good Fishin'!!!!

[Hawgeye]

Steve Fellegy makes a great point on one of his past posts on a different thread. Please correct me Steve if I misquote you but paraphrasing he states that while using an underwater camera, he was amazed at how much of a silt storm arises when any object "touches" the bottom. This amount of silt in the water is somewhat unnatural to walleyes and may turn them off.

This winter while using an underwater camera, I saw the same thing. I was jigging with a swedish pimple and touched the bottom while jigging. There was such a cloud that arose from touching the bottom that I could not see the swedish pimple on the camera for about 10 seconds. Do you think the walleye sees that piece of lead bouncing up all that silt as natural? Probably not. That is why it is a good idea to keep that jig, bottom bouncer or lindy weight just off the bottom and only touching bottom on occasion to see if you are still in the zone. Since Lindy Rigging works on the premise of "feeding" line to the fish after a tap, it is not possible to keep the weight off the bottom. The hope is that the fish has already taken the bait and is swimming away from the silt storm that was just created.