Quantum baitcaster

[woodsdweller]

Bought a Quantum Iron 400CX baitcaster on sale. Put 10# mono on it and tried it out in the back yard with a 7' Gander IM-7 MH rod. After 1/2 hour of casting I'm still having nothing but trouble. Poor casting distance (using 1/2 oz. weight), can't seem to get the brakes adjusted right, get backlashes when I attempt a harder cast for distance. While I am still fairly new to baitcasting, I really didn't expect so much trouble. Is it just me, or is this reel a bad choice and I should return it for a refund? Any thoughts? Thanks.

Woodsdweller

[eye lund]

I back off the drag then i tighten the Bearing cap under the handel
then loosen it until the lure will fall smothly to the floor when
you trip thumb bar then adjust the drag when you cast easy so it doesn't birdnest or unspool exta line when the lure stops. works for me hope this helps. Good fishing

[JimStolpa]

How new are you???? Baitcasting really takes some getting used to. If you have only been baitcasting 1 year and only on 1 or 2 reels, you most likely will notice some distinct differences in reel performance. Most of these performance issues are debugged with experience. You also have to take into account issues such as the amount of line on a reel, line quality, tension settings, in addition to brake weight settings or magnetic brake settings. If the reel is defective then you should return it, but odds are if the the reel spins smooth it is a learning curve issue. It sounds like you have been experimenting with the brake weights. I'd adjust the brake weights as far in as possible, but keep the line tension up. If you want a little more distance decrease the line tension. If you start to backlash too much, you need to practice thumbing the reel. Casting a 2 ounce weight you'll have to thumb the ##### out of it so drop back to a 1/2 ounce plug or spinnerbait. Let me know if this helps. Whew!!!

[Bugtussle]

I BOUGHT A QUANTUM IRON SEVERAL YEARS AGO. COULD NEVER GET IT ADJUSTED SO THAT I COULD CAST WITH IT. HAVE JUST BEEN USING IT FOR TROLLING EVER SINCE. HAVE ONLY BOUGHT ABU GARCIA SINCE THEN. MUCH BETTER REELS.

[steve(IL)]

I have never used an Iron series so I can't comment on the reel. In addition to the above helpful comments, you have to learn to make a smooth casting stroke. It will help if you study how the rod loads up.
If your rod is an MH or H, that could be part of your trouble. A stout rod is less forgiving. If you ahve access to something with a softer action, give it a try.

The fact is that there is a learning curve involved in baitcasting. It can be very enjoyable once you get the hang of it. Stick with it and good luck.

p.s. There is a video - from Shimano I think - on how to get better at baitcasting.

[REW]

Several of my friends have Quantum bait casters that work extremely well.
A couple of questions.
a. do you have weight style brakes, or magnetic brakes.
The weight style brakes - that slow the maximum reel rotation are the current popular brakes that work very well.
b. Do you have a spool tensioning adjustment - the spring loaded thrumb screw on the side of the reel.

The other posts are great -
Remember - the side tensioning adjustment - increases or decreases the drag - when the reel is spinning slowly.

The weight style brake, or the magnetic brake slows the reel speed, when the reel is spinning quickly.

Having said that - the other posts are correct as far as settings:
With your weight or lure that you are going to cast with - release the reel - and let the spool free spool toward the ground. Tighten the side tension adjustment - so that it just slightly slows the drop of the reel.

Then, if you have weight style brakes - pop off the side cover and engage all of the brakes, you might have 3,4 or 6 brakes. Adjust the sliders, so that the brakes will be all engaged.

If you have a magnetic brake - turn the brake to its maximum setting.

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The idea of setting the brakes - whether weight actuated, or magnetic actuated - to the tightest setting is to preclude the possibility of a reel back lash.

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Now practice casting with these settings, - use your thumb as required to control the casting distance, and also help the brakes in preventing back lashes.

As your casting improves - began to release either the magnetic brakes - one brake at a time, or back off the magnetic brake setting - one click at a time.

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Assuming that you don't have a defective reel - as your casting ability increases - you will be able to back the brakes off more and more.
Eventually you will be casting your required distance - and have very little drag activated.

Now, in a fishing situation - the thing that you need to get familiar with is the use of your weight style drag or magnetic drag. Each different weight lure - requires a different drag setting for optimum performance.

Basically - on the water - start with the drag settings set to maximum, or a comfortably tight setting. Cast a few times with your lure of choice. Continue to reduce the brake setting, until you might start to get just a touch of back lash - then slightly tighten up the drag. Make note of this brake setting for that weight lure.

Then as you go up and down in weights of different lures - you will began to note and remember the different drag settings required for these different lures.

This is actually one of the reasons that a lot of bass fisherman - who run bait casters - carry so many different rods - often with the identical rod and reel - but carrying different lures. The bass fisherman - can dial in each rod and reel combination for a particular crank bait or lure weight. Then, as conditions and or the fish bite changes - they can grab the other rod - cast away and be assured that the reel settings will be correct.

Don't give up on your reel - as the other postings have suggested - it is likely a matter of training.

Remember - if you compare the casting distance of your bait caster - to the casting distance of your spinning reel - it is likely that you aren't going to equal your casting distance - unless you are using very heavy weights on your bait caster.

If you think about it - the casting distance is simply limited by the drag of your sysytem. With a bait caster - the only drag that you are going to get is during the initial acceleration of the reel up to speed. Then, if you have a correctly set up rod - and the drag is running smoothly - and the line is laid in properly on the reel - you should be able to cast a very long way indeed.

The problem with casting very light weights with a casting reel - is that there is so much inertia in getting your bait caster spooling - that you lose most of your casting distance in accelerating the spool.

With heavier weights - this becomes a mute point.

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I lightly touched on rods - remember - if you don't have the right action rod, if the rod isn't properly built with the correct guides and their placement - you can severely limit your casting distance.

Remember - that in general - the longer the rod - the greater will be the acceleration of the tip - and hence the greater velocity imparted to the lure/ weight - as far as increasing casting distance.

Obviously the opposite is ture - as you go to a shorter rod.


For example - if you cast with a 5 foot rod, then do the same cast with a 7 foot rod, you might easily double your casting distance - all other condititons being equal.

Take care
REW

[steve(IL)]

After I entered my reply to your post, I re-read your original post and saw you have an MH rod. Check the side of the rod for the recommended lure weight. My guess is it will say something like
1/2 - 3 ozs. Using 1/2 oz puts you at the low end of the rods spectrum. Try tying on a few more sinkers to help load the rod. Concentrate on smoothly accelerating forward to make your cast. A straight overhead cast may be better to start than any sort of side arm cast. Keep your thumb over the spool. As the sinkers get close to hitting the ground, start pressing with your thumb to slow the spool. This can help eliminate or minimize bird nests. Keep after it!!

[woodsdweller]

Thanks for the tips, guys. And REW, if you haven't written a book yet, you should think about it. Your posts are always so well thought out and in-depth. We all really benefit from the time you take to answer so thoroughly. You cover all the details!!

After reading everyones comments, I think I probably set the spool tension a little too tight. Also, the 1/2 oz. weight I'm practicing with is the low end of the recommendations for my MH rod. I'll try a lighter rod that I have lying around. Have tried all of the different brake weight settings, but without really knowing what I was doing. I think I now have a better handle on how to adjust this baby. Guess it'll just take some practice.

I am still concerned about whether the Iron reel was a good choice. Did a search on a bass site, and the few posts I turned up didn't care for this reel at all. (It's not to late to trade up to maybe a Shimano or something).

[steve(IL)]

I own Shimanos(nothing above Curado - for me personally - it would be throwing away money), Quantums (low profile bass types), and Diawas.
I like them all. I live on a lake and have logged many hours w/ them.

The reel you selected probably shines best when throwing heavier baits - like when Muskie or Pike fishing. I think the Iron series is meant to be bullet proof. I wouldn't be too quick to lose faith in your reel choice. The fact that you bought an MH rod makes me think you had Pike/Muskies in mind. Perhaps you were hoping for more versatility.

Keep in mind that rods/reels are tools. Just like a wrench, you need the right one for the job. I've never had a do-all rod or reel. Consider keeping what you have for your Pike fishing. Add to your
rod/reel quiver w/ a set-up meant to handle 1/4 - 1 oz lures. You'll find that easier to learn with I suspect. It will also serve you better when bass or walleye fishing. You'll still need to have the big stick for times when you pull out the big lures!

[woodsdweller]

Steve,

When I bought this combo I was thinking of using it for cranks, spinnerbaits, jig/pigs, etc. that can weigh 1/4-1/2 oz., or more. I'm fairly well covered in the walleye dept. This was more for bass and pike, casting and flippin'. I also live on a lake, and fish bass a lot after work. I don't think my spinning rods are quite up to the task, and besides, I just wanted to try baitcasting. Maybe I need a different combo. Anything you suggest that might fit the bill? If BPS has it on sale now, that would be a plus. If my wife catches me sneaking any more fishin' stuff into our house, it had better been bought on sale!!! LOL

By the way, just out of curiosity, which lake do you live on? I'm also in NE Illinois. I live on Round Lake.

Woodsdweller

[205]

Woodsdweller, keep at it! I've been throwing baitcasters for bass for 20 some years. No matter what brand you buy or how many brakes and gizmos they put on these reels, you have to learn how to control your cast with your Thumb! As I seen mention, you can minimize backlashes. But you will NEVER eliminate them.:-) Trust me.:-) I love my baitcasters, but I keep the knife on my Leatherman sharp.:-) At least once a year I get one of those Professional birdsnests.:-) Thats why you see so many rods and reels on the decks of Bass fishermen.:7