View Full Version : Hitch height
TimnIowa
03-20-2002, 04:43 AM
I read on here the other day about someone's trailer too low to put the crank down. I got my new 620 home and found the same problem so I made a 5/8" spacer and put it under the ball. If someone was to do this I would make sure they have a 1" bolt or stud on the ball. It raised my trailer up enough to allow me to drop and raise the crank without any drag on the wheel.
Pitts
03-20-2002, 01:27 PM
Tim just make sure when you are on a level spot to measure your trailer frame height front and back and be level or slightly low in the front.
My .02
Nice boat!! :)
Pitts
What I did was to buy a receiver that has a 2" drop and put the drop to the top not the bottom.
Hawgeye
03-20-2002, 03:06 PM
Me too!. Just turn it upside down, or right side up in our case and you get all the adjustment you need.
erie addict
03-20-2002, 05:06 PM
Isn't the idea to keep the trailer level for the best trailering? If I flip my 2 " receiver so that the drop is on the top my hitch, my trailer looks "tail heavy" or tilts to the rear. I haven't tried it on the high way but, it doesn't look right.
Huntindave
03-20-2002, 05:58 PM
Trailer towing is affected more by the tongue weight, rather than the level of the trailer. You should have 10--15% tongue weight. If raising the tongue a couple of inches, shifts too much weight to the rear of the axle, then your towing will be affected.
Trailers pull best - if they are level, or very slightly low in the front.
If you have a problem with your tongue jack - not being able to stow or deploy - due to height - simply get a shorter tongue jack.
The jacks come in all lengths and are inexpensive.
p.s.
If you are getting a new jack - get one with a double wheel on the jack. It makes the psi much less on each wheel of the jack - and makes it a LOT easier to move the trailer around - due to the reduction in friction and weight.
Take care
REW