Crank trolling over flooded timber

[sdlabman]

Professional plug pullers, your input is much appreciated!

Concerning pulling plugs in deep water, Missouri River (SD), over the "top" of submerged stumps/trees, what method(s) work best? Say, bottom depth is 50ft., trees extend upwards 20ft., so plugs would be travelling around 30ft. deep. (example)

I have heard "ticking" the tops of the submerged stumps/trees is the best way to produce larger Walleye... Is this the most productive way to pull plugs over submerged timber? Or, is there some other method to use while doing this? Any thoughts on this?

Using super lines, w/ 4oz. snap weights, or 3 ways. Usually I use snap weights, 9 ft. poles off the sides, 7 ft. straight out the back.

[wildnorthern]

If I were ticking trees I would take the front treble off to reduce snags.

[sdlabman]

Great point wildnorthern... :)

[bignosegeorge]

When i lived in pierre, we use to pull plugs over timber on the flats on Lake Oahe. One thing we found that produced really big fish was to pull plugs through the trees at right angles or zig zag pattern, in other words if we found a line of trees we wouldn't make a run the whole length but just bust through and turn around and do it again. Hope that made sense.

[sdlabman]

Makes sense...

But, whats the key to this type of pulling plugs? Do you keep the crankbait just above the trees, or actually try to pull thru the trees/stumps, and just live with losing alot of plugs in the process?

[wildnorthern]

If you use 15 lb power pro etc... you will straighten a hook before you lose the crank.

[sddan2]

I do this regularly on Oahe and Francis Case. I either use downriggers and/or 18lb lead core with a 14lb fireline leader. I fished all of last weekend and lost one crankbait. We typically target 70-80 ft of water with trees up to 30 foot. That is why the leadcore and downriggers are needed. I watch the graph closely and when trees move up we quickly crank up the downriggers while increasing the speed to elevate the leadcore.

[sdlabman]

sddan2,

Dont own downriggers.

Wouldnt heavy snap weights do the same thing, or no?

[sddan2]

For whatever reason, I seem to hang up snap weights in the trees. I lost several last year and have stayed away from them since. It is probably due to a lack of experience on my part using snaps. I did see some boats using 3 way rigs but I haven't tried that yet. I find it quite easy to troll leadcore. In fact, last weekend most of our fish came off of the leadcore rods that we were running planer boards on. The nice part about the leadcore is that you can avoid snags by simply quickly increasing your speed and raising the line when you see a tree come up higher on the graph. .

[sdlabman]

I have plenty of nice leadcore setups, so I'll try that.

I am gonna try the 3 way system too...

Do you remove the front trebel hook when you crank thru trees/stumps?

[aceoky]

Do you remove the front trebel hook when you crank thru trees/stumps?

What I do is bend the bottom hooks on front and rear so they can't snag, eliminates probably 95% or more of snags without throwing the lures out of balance/harming the action some cranks are VERY sensitive IMO

I don't believe it has a negative effect on hookups, but sure helps on snags (and you still have four of the "treble hooks" that way ) YMMV :)

[sddan2]

I have never removed or adjusted a hook but it would definitely be worth a try. When I first started trying this technique I primarily used Flickershads as they were only $1.99. I did lose a few initially. I can't seem to find a consistent supply of them anymore in the area.

[sdlabman]

[quote=aceoky;1112961]What I do is bend the bottom hooks on front and rear so they can't snag,


Are bending "all" the hooks, or just the front trebel?

[aceoky]

[quote=aceoky;1112961]What I do is bend the bottom hooks on front and rear so they can't snag,


Are bending "all" the hooks, or just the front trebel?

Just the two bottom most of the treble hooks (front and rear one each) sometimes you can get away with only the bottom belly hook depending on bait/speed etc.

You end up with four of the original six hooks not bent

[sdlabman]

Guess I'll stick to leadcore.

Hate letting our 5-6 colors or so, to get deep, but it's the only way.

I wont drill holes in my lund for down-riggers, so that's really my best option i guess.

[RJmjZ]

#1. Not for heavy/thickly populated stickups, and

#2. Not a trolling method for obvious reasons, and

#3. Suspending or floating baits are best with this method

Once you get em down to where you want them - by whatever means - and when your bait hits a tree (also works with large sewer cover+ size rocks), free spool for a moment or three. The bite will come in the "motionless" of the moment. With weights up the line you can be fooled by the weight hitting the tree. . . Stop the bait anyway. That way the bait will either be taken in semi-open water, or as the disoriented appearing bait shrinks back from subsequently hitting the tree. Either way heavier line is in order, with 4-6 foot mono or flouro leaders if call for it and you want to go that route.