Hello, I am replacing a bunch of hardware on my trailer this year. I have two broken brackets where the bunk attaches to the frame of the trailer so I am replacing those, they are on order from the manufacturer. Then I am going to replace the wood on the trailer as it is rotten. I am going to go with either fir or cedar for the wood, varnish it and then replace the carpet.

Now, my question is: Currently I have 2x4's on the trailer and was wondering if it would be silly to go to 2x6's? The trailer is a Yacht Club 1815B which is a 1500lb trailer. I have a Lund Outfitter with a 50 horse merc on it. I have weighed everything when in tow and I come to 1250-1275 lbs on average when fully loaded up. Should I stick with 2x4's or go to the 2x6's?

I had a Lund SSV16 on a Trailmaster trailer. It was equipped with 2x4 bunks with the bunks on edge. The boat broke over the bunks on both sides and had to get it re-welded by a Lund dealer. The boat only had a 25 horse Merc on the back, (2 stroke), so was not real heavy. If its easy I'd lean toward the 2x6. When I had the boat fixed the dealer added another 2x4 beside the one already there.

Just a thought, suppose it depends on how much trailering you do.

Paul C.
Mattawan, MI

Considering the relatively small cost difference, I'd probably pay for the 2x6s and find other things to worry about.

Why would you varnish the bunk boards? I don't recall ever seeing that done on a trailer or boat lift.

I am going to varnish cause I can't use treated wood, and just so that it prevents water from permeating into the wood causing premature rot.

If you use unvarnished cedar bunks, you'll probably find they hold up for a very long time. Just a thought on varnishing those bunks...

Yes, varnish is a moisture barrier- until it cracks or is punctured by bolts, screws, staples, etc. I have no idea how varnish will perform underneath carpet that is occasionally soaked in water, but I wouldn't be surprised if that caused the varnish layer to fail quickly. Just a thought. Good luck with your project.

yar is right

I would not use anything on them so they are allowed to dry

with varnish or whatever on them all that is is going to do is trap the moisture inside since there is no way you are going to completley seal them from the entrance of mositure.

Yeah, I guess I never thought of it that way. Thanks for that. So...I am assuming that there are no issues with putting 2x6's on, I think I am going to go that route.

I'm assuming the hull will rest against the sides of the wood. The added width of the 2x6 will make your boat sit an inch or 2 higher on the trailer.

So, if you use marginal or unimproved launches, you may have to back-in farther to launch.

Thats the only drawback I can imagine.

No, the reason I want to go to a 2x6 is because the added "width" it would provide, increased surface area, less pressure exerted on primary spots, for the boat and the trailer. The boards lay flat on mine, not on edge like on some, so 1.5" of height from a 2x4 and 1.5" height on a 2x6.

do your boards have a curve to them to cradle the hull or are they straight?

If they have a curve to them make sure the 2x6 will curve also

Nope, no cuve, flat, straight up 2x4's.

Make sure the Bunks are long enough that they support directly under the transom and possbily stick out past the transom. That way much of the weight of the motor is directly by the bunk without putting stress on the hull.

do your boards have a curve to them to cradle the hull or are they straight?

If they have a curve to them make sure the 2x6 will curve also

I don't know if PJ is talking about pre-curved 2x4's or, like mine, they curve slightly with the weight and curves of the hull. Creates a cradling affect. A 2x6 might not flex as much leaving some of your hull unsupported. I've had no problems with 2x4's. Just something to think about.

b2

I don't know if PJ is talking about pre-curved 2x4's or, like mine, they curve slightly with the weight and curves of the hull. Creates a cradling affect. A 2x6 might not flex as much leaving some of your hull unsupported. I've had no problems with 2x4's. Just something to think about.

b2

thats exactly what I am talking about.

I ended up going with 2x4's, my final thinking was that when unloading with the increased surface area it might be more difficult to push off with the 2x6's. Everything is working fine so far and am enjoying just being back out fishing after the downtime.

Hi. I was wondering how the new plastic boards would do, they have them in those widths to i think. plastic would not deteiorate i dont think or would it? thanks just wondering. my 2000 lund has been on those 2x6s for 9 years now.

Big Fish,
Go with unfinished Cedar.
Cedar won't rot, as long as it is not finished. The finish can trap moisture.
Also, cedar is softer than fir, so go with 2X6's.

I have used cedar for all of my bunk replacment, as well as my walk boards, and couldn't be happier. No sign of rot in the years it has been on the trailer.

Take care
REW