downriggers for walleyes

[Lundexp]

Do any of you use downriggers for walleyes? I have a 4 rigger setup for salmon and just wondering if it would work well for walleyes too. Would it work any better than using snap weights and if so, what kind of techniques do you use? Thanks

[Work Release]

Well, this may be a little long, and I'm looking forward to others comments on them as well. I've had some interesting conversations with other fishermen about them...including "you should never use them for walleyes".

I use them constantly when trolling, and I love to troll. I started fishing for walleyes only two years ago. I was over towards Geneva at that time, and in the summer we were fishing in 60-70+ fow. I used stingers pretty much exclusively, and the riggers allowed me to quickly change depths...and more precisely than any other method, imho. Moved to Vermilion last fall, and this spring when the fish were shallow, I jigged like everyone else. When the troll bite started, I set up the riggers and had at it. I pull stingers, harnesses and shallow cranks on the riggers, as well as running inlines with deep running rr's. I also use snap weight system...now, I've tried comparing results of stingers and harnesses off of inlines vs. riggers and have had better success with the riggers. But not by a heck of a lot. I don't use riggers in less than 25-30 fow. I also have jets and dipseys on board, and haven't used them once this year. Probably won't either. So here's a few of the things I do with riggers...

* My lures are always a minimum of 150 back.

* Harnesses, I put a small sinker snapped to the front swivel up four feet in front of harness (I run 4' leaders).

* I always troll in a random fashion, i.e., never a str8 line always a tight "slalom"

* Sometimes I run stacks of two. Slightly weighted harness off the ball with a stinger spoon up4-5', back 20' behind harness.

* Here's a tip that'll fit with your salmon fishing. I've lately taken to running a small dodger at the front of the leader sometimes when running stingers ! :huh: Hey, it's been workin pretty darn good when the bites slow ! I need to rig dodger with a hook tho'...sometimes they've been hitting the dodger.

There are days when I wonder if the ball or wire are spooking the fish, but most of the time I'm quite happy with the results. I've heard that the ball spooks the fish, but I wonder if they are affected more (positive or negative) by the "singing" wire ? I DO know that if all of a sudden I mark a pod suspended at a different depth, I can put the lure at that depth before it gets to them....and if it's the right lure, right color, right speed I will generally get a release.

Keep an open mind and give it a try.

[K Gonefishin]

Me and a couple of my friends run riggers for walleye on Erie.

Here are a couple things we do.

Run diving baits like reef runners, I like to run them around 25-40 back, this take the bait down and away from the ball. Works great.

Run a 1 oz inline with a spinner rig, I know where my spinners are running at all times running 1 oz inlines at whatever lead I'm running add that to where your ball is at so you know precisely where your spinner is running, I like Black's releases for all applications even salmon.

For steelies, run them 10-50 back, we run stackers with large and small scorpian size spoons.

Shallow baits like husky's and bombers then spoons on top on short leads. I'll run longer leads to 60 back with these baits because they aren't diving as far behind and down away from the ball. a bomber 60 back is only going to dive around 5 ft or so.

My buddy took a walleye in 20 ft of water in May off Cleveland on a spinner off a downriggers, he has Digitrolls, he had is set to run 4 ft off the bottom and stuck that horse, fish was HUGE at a little over 14 pounds and 33 1/2 inches. Riggers work for walleye and well.

[tracker 1]

I have given up on down riggers for walleye. The main reason is I can not find a release that will work for walleye. i have tried Romer and Blacks and I still don't get release on walleyes. What am I doing wrong ?

[Hombre Robusto]

A buddy of mine wouldn't go on Erie without his riggers. His standard setup is a double gold colorado bladed (size3 blades) with red beads 22 feet behind the ball. It's usually his best producing presentation.

[Lundexp]

Good to know downriggers work good on walleyes too. I tried it out on Francis Case and managed to get one out of 40 ft water. Do you typically pull the cranks along the bottom or halfway or what? Also do you use diving cranks or floating or suspended cranks?

[Reelcranky]

I have had good luck using my riggers for walleye and the long leads really help I usually run them 75 to 100 feet back. There are many days the riggers outproduce the dipsey divers. Tracker try using rubber bands to attach your line to the release on the downrigger ball the bands tend to break easier from the release even on small fish.

[K Gonefishin]

I have given up on down riggers for walleye. The main reason is I can not find a release that will work for walleye. i have tried Romer and Blacks and I still don't get release on walleyes. What am I doing wrong ?


I use black's for both walleye and salmon, your just not setting the release right, keep playing with it till you get it right...or try a more limber rod and or leave it on free spool on the way down with no clicker so there isn't a ton of pressure while your sending your bait down, I keep the release set as light as I can without popping it on the way down to my desired depth, this is the hardest part of walleye fishing with riggers is getting the release just right You can try a Walker release a friend swears by them he gave me one to try and says a white bass will pop the release.

[Work Release]

I have given up on down riggers for walleye. The main reason is I can not find a release that will work for walleye. i have tried Romer and Blacks and I still don't get release on walleyes. What am I doing wrong ?


I haven't found a release that doesn't work on walleyes, it's as K Gone says, you have to play with them to find the correct clamping and it helps to take it off clicker. I set the backlash drag sort of midrange, no clicker, and freespool down to the depth I need. I use 7'6" and 8' rods with limber tips....dr rods and dipsey rods are fine. I've used all kinds of releases...I have one (don't remember the name now,but may be cannon) that actually has a tag on it that says "light". Rubber bands are fine as well. My stackers took some getting used to, because they have a screw tensioner like a dipsey. Line diameter/type could be an issue too, I suppose.

That being said, I've still dragged some trash around for a few miles on occasion...but you'll eventually learn to read the rod tips. Kick into neutral for 5 seconds sometimes reveals trash too.

Shallow running cranks back 150 works best for me. If the crank is supposed to run, say, 6-8', and I'm marking fish at say 40 feet, I'll run the ball at 32-34' (release is off the tail of ball). I always try and put the lure between "at" or 2-4' over walleye, depending on light/clarity.

The ultimate for me right now would be if live target came out with a perch crank that was shallower running in the larger lure.

Yep, downriggers rule !

[Hombre Robusto]

Try the Walker releases. They look like a bullet, and can be adjusted in very small increments.

[Boatnut]

I used to use them for walleyes when I was doing the dipsey/jet/spoon thing. Since I started fishing harnesses, I rarely use them much anymore except for steelies. I wouldnt recommend buying a pair JUST for walleyes but since you already on them, use 'em! Lots of guys say you need long leads but i've never found that to be the case. I always used real short leads...anywhere from 8' to 20' and have done well. Rubber bands work well or the walker releases do as well.

[Mr.Seaguar]

I been thinking about getting some riggers because I thought they would work. Thanks guys.