My Ranger trailer hubs are due for the 3 year maintence. I have read the manual that came with my boat that deals with the hubs and it is not real clear what this scheduled 3 year maintenence actually invloves. It is a single axle Ranger trailer under a 1850 Reatta. I have the hubs with the black fill cap (not the see-through kind). Do I drain the old old and replace with new? Do I need to pull and inspect bearings? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

I also am interested as my 3 year is up this summer. If anyone has a simple description on how to do this....it would be much appreciated.

C-C,
I sent you a PM, I have the same rig as you and have a question.
Walrus

I also am interested as my 3 year is up this summer. If anyone has a simple description on how to do this....it would be much appreciated.


Pull the wheels, make sure your level. I use jack stands. Pull the plug, spin to 6 O'clock and let them drain...it takes TIME, go find something else to do.

I use a turkey injector to refill, works really well as the fill hole is small. Use 50wt racing oil...I use valvoline. My hubs are yellow so I can see the fill line, if you can't see the fill line...fill to specs. Another nice thing about the turkey injector, it lists ounces.

Use a dab of RTV sealant on the plug, tighten.

I do mine once a year...easy and cheap.

BIRDDOG

I second what Went522 said, I have been doing mine for 4 years now and it is the way he layed it out for you. Easy job but they do drain slowwww.

Yup it is slow. Sure would be nice if they would tap another hole in the hub to serve as a breather...

The trick to get them to drain faster is keep the drain hole on the side, not facing down. Think of putting your finger on the end of a straw and keeping water in it. Same thing here. As the old oil drains out slowly turn the wheel and keep it draining. Allowing air in makes things move much faster.

The trick to get them to drain faster is keep the drain hole on the side, not facing down. Think of putting your finger on the end of a straw and keeping water in it. Same thing here. As the old oil drains out slowly turn the wheel and keep it draining. Allowing air in makes things move much faster.

It makes sense in theory but...

It still takes forever, and really doesn't go much faster imho. It's like watching paint dry, the oil is still thick enough and drain hole so small it just drizzles out. The running back and fourth around the boat and adjusting each wheel to keep the oil running was simply a hassel. Doing one wheel at a time is a waste of time. I found it easier and time effective to just spin them both to 6 oclock and do something else for a while rather than baby sitting the hubs.

The last few times I did my hubs I've been running fresh brake fluid through the brake system. The wheels are off and the calipers are easy to get at. I've noticed the fluid gets pretty dirty after a year, by the time I'm done with brake maintenence the hubs are drained. Always some sort of maintenence to be done, may as well do it while your waiting. At least that's my theory.

BIRDDOG

If you just jack up one side and are not level, you will tend to overfill because the oil pools towards the inside. If you are only able to jack up one side, try to fill a little under the line. If you are filling per measured amount, it does not matter. You may also find that, after three years, you may have a tough time getting the plug to budge. Be sure to have a socket type allen wrench to remove the plug.
Good luck,

What about the newer hubs with no drain? Do you just pull the cap off and drain?

If you want the hubs to drain faster, you can do two things.
a. Jack up the opposite side of the trailer to tilt the axle to the wheel being drained.
b. Use a torch to heat up the hub and the grease. Hot grease will drain very quickly.

Take care
REW

Heating those plastic hubs probably isn't a good plan. Actually, unless you plan on replacing the seals, heating any hub with a torch seems like a bad plan.