What line for spinner rigs?

[SoDakBoy]

I've always tied my spinner rigs with mono in the past, usually with 10lb clear Trilene, but this year I'm going to experiment with fluorocarbon. Anyone have any experience using it on spinner rigs? What test would you recommend? What brand? I’ve heard bad things Vanish so will stay away from it.

I also see that spinner rigs with fluorescent line have come out. Has anyone tried them? Does anyone know where to buy fluorescent line so I could try tying my own?

[Jbob]

I use the Vanish alot. The thing that you have to be careful about is WETTING your line when tying the nots. If you do not wet the line it will burn through. This is all flouracarbon line.

[Osprey]

I've found that the florocarbon not to be as abraision resistant as lines like the Trilene XT. So you might have a problem with the clevis rubbing through. I use the XT in 20#. If you want fluorescent line as in bright yellow, Trilene makes the XT in Solar which is real bright.

"Osprey"

[CarpetBagger]

I just started using a new line for my spinner rigs. Yo-Zuri Hybrid, its some kind of florocarbon and nylon mix. I am very pleased with the stuff, Really nice knot strength ill be using this from now on. They do make it in 10-40 on small spools at West Marine.

CB

[Walleyeman]

I only use 8 lb. Berkley Vanish on my spinner rigs. Spinners are my primary presentation and I only had three break offs last year. And this is Mille Lacs Fishing with a lot of big fish caught. Only one of the breakoffs was on a fish, the fish got caught up in the drift sock and the line gave. However, this year I my beef it up a little with 10 lb line. As previously mentioned, you NEED to wet the line before cinching the knot. This is true with all lines but more so with flourocarbon.

[REW]

I simply have to ask one question - Why do you want to change your line.

With the use of spinners, beads, etc. there appears to be 0 reason to have to worry about line visability.

With all of the hassle of knots, wetting line etc. - why even try anything else.

Basically with spinners, you need a fairly stiff line. This keeps the spinners from twisting the line etc.

Your 10 lb xl is a good choice, as well as a lot of folks use xt with excellent results.

Take a good strong line, that has excellent knot strength, doesn't loop badly and lets go fishing.

Take care
REW

[Peter H]

Seaguar Carbon-Pro 12 lb. - best line I have used - worth the price. I used to use Trilene XT but the the abrasion resistance of this Carbon-Pro fluorocarbon is better then XT. Remember if you look at monofilament under a microscope you see that it is porous in the diameter. Fluorocarbon is solid though out the diameter. EASY TEST - take a knife and rub down the length of the monofilament with the blade - it breaks easily. Try that with Carbon-Pro or the Yozui and it will not do that - it looks more like whittling a stick. Once I see that fray - time to change out. The fray is where the monofilament would just have been cut. This is my experience with these lines - I see that it holds up better on zebra mussles better then monofilament for spinners.

I do not like Vanish - I just threw out 2 1/2 spools of the junk.

[Dunn]

I prefer Berkley Vanish. Make sure your knots are good and wet before you sinch them though or they will come loose.

Also, gauge the test according to what you'll be fishing for size wise. For the big fish in Lake Huron and Erie I like to go with a 17-20 lb Vanish, and for smaller fish applications anything 8-14 lb should work well.
-----------------
Marshall J. Dunn
N.P.A.A. # 701

[Peter H]

I caught alot of 8 - 11 pounders on 12 lb test Seaguar, 6mm beads, #5 blades. (I am not sponsored by them). How do you define small?

[yoda]

I kinda like Fireline, 14lbs, never been a problem. Seems to hold up a little better when a BIG toothy critter latches on to it(Pike).

[Canoehead]

Guys,

I've been using Vanish 12lb for all my spinners for almost three years now - I've never lost my knot at the hook (my own knot on Gamakatsu Wide Gaps) or at the loop (double surgeon's knot). I tie a lot of these, usually in the off-season here in Canada and I can't remember ever WETTING my line. Am I missing something here? Are these slipping knots a fact or an occasional observation?

I wouldn't tie with anything else.

The Head

[Canoehead]

Peter,

What don't you like about Vanish?

The Head

[Walleyeman]

It's not that the line slips lose, its that the line is weakened by not wetting it. The act of wetting the line lubricates the line and forms a stronger knot.

[REW]

To amplify the previous post.
Some folks did some knot tying under a microscope.
With many lines, both florocarbon as well as some of the mono lines - a knot is tied in the end of the line.

Without lubrication -- as the knot draws tight - and especially, if it is tightned very quickly - the friction from the lines rubbing together - as the lines get tight - generate heat.

If the friction is great enough - as is the case for many of the florocarbon lines in particular - the heat actually melts some of the line, and thus makes the line thinner at the point of friction (typically in the knot).
This thin spot - then bcomes the "weakest link" and - if stressed enough - will become the primary point of failure.

The theory is that -- if friction is reduced - by the use of some type of lubrication - then the heating is reduced, and the line melting is reduced, so as to become insignificant.

Some folks use spit, mineral oil, wd-40, 3 in 1 oil, or???
to lubricate the line, reduce friction, reduce line melting, and thus leave the knot nearly as strong as the rest of the line.

Take care
REW

[jerry]

Look at P-Line. I use "cx premium" exclusively and have had no problems at all and increased my hookups. This has a stretch of about 14% and a fluourescent/clear finish due to fluofocarbon coating. Not one fish has been lost due to this line in three years - under Erie conditions and happy water temp. They have a new line "Fluoroclear", but I can not see any change for me based upon results and extensive research. They have a web page p-line.com
GB&GBUSA
Jerry

[Eyecrosser]

I've only been tieing my own spinners for about a year now (I love it). I have found that stren sensor works best for me. I tend to use pretty light line as well on those Mille Lacs brutes, usually 8lb, sometimes 10lb. Every summer I spend a week at the NW angle on LOTW. There I like to use fireline because of the rocky conditions. I tryed berkley vanish and ended up throwing it in the garbage!

[Peter H]

I my fishing I have tied a number of spinners as well as leaders in front of leadcore and found that Vanish does not have the same break or abrasion resistance that Seaguars does. The last straw for Vanish was this spring - I left my Seaguar Flourocarbon in my spinner rigging bag and all I had left was some Vanish that I had experimented with for the past 2 years. Well after a few rock hits pulling leadcore on the bottom of the Menomonie River there went a couple Shad Raps. I think that Vanish also has a different flexibility then Seaguars. There are other lines like P-line or Yozuri that look interesting as well. I just have not had any problems with Seaguar in the same conditions as Vanish.

[TJ]

I have been using Seaguar Carbon-Pro 15 lb. for my big water spinners with great success. I will pull them over the zebra mussels and up for suspended fish. Just change them when you see them getting 'shaved' by the zeebs. I don't believe there is an indestrucible, invisible line. Is there?

[SdDoc]

I like to use maxima. It is very abrasion resistant and fairly stiff. I have never had it break at a knot, and it seems to tie very well.