Crankbaits

[RayChamp]

LAST EDITED ON Jun-03-00 AT 07:53PM (CST)[p]When I connect to a crank to my line, what type connection should I use and what size should that connection be? I.e., should I use a snap, a snap with a swivel, a ball bearing swivel, tie the line direct to the eye, etc. Also, what I know what connection to use, what size should this connection be? I also heard that I should remove the split ring from the crank? Is this true? Thank all of you.

Ray Champ

[FJH1]

As a general rule, if it spins (crawler harness...), put on a ball bearing swivel, if it doesn't spin (crankbait) use a snap. I use the Norman Speed Clips for my crankbaits and love them. Yes, I remove all split rings from the eyes on my cranks.

Best Regards,

FJH

[Starfish]

Different lures seem to have different preferences. I prefer to run Storm lures with a duolock snap through the split ring. For floating Rapalas I always use a Rapala knot directly through the eyelet. For others--when in doubt I almost always default to a duolock snap, and I rarely remove a split ring if a lure comes that way.

[Gray Ghost]

I use a #2 snap. When trolling cranks for walleyes with fireline that's all I use. I do not like to use snap swivels because it adds a lot of hardware right in front of the lure. When using spinner harnesses, I have a swivel tied onto the front of the spinner harness, to which I attach the snap.

When trolling for trout and salmon on Lake Mich., I use a stronger snap (even though a #2 is about 20# test) and I tie a swivel about 4 feet up the line. This is for two reasons: you have to have a swivel for trolling spoons or dodgers, and also, you need to have something to catch the yellow bird before it hits the fish (a yellow bird is a kind of planer board which releases and slides back on the line, when a fish hits. You don't want it to slide all the way back and hit the fish.)

GG

[RayChamp]

Little more help on the size to use and if won't bother anyone again. Thanks, Ray