Hey you HGT tackle junkies I am going to be making Bottom Bouncers and was thinking I needed a little advice!!!I have 2 weight molds now walking weights for lindy rigs and now BB for everything else!!!Let me know how,what,tricks!!!

I look forward to your knowledge!!

FC :huh:

I also have the walking sinker mold and a bank sinker mold. I use hard lead for pouring my sinkers. I find that the soft lead is to soft so I prefer the hard lead.

I also have the walking sinker mold and a bank sinker mold. I use hard lead for pouring my sinkers. I find that the soft lead is to soft so I prefer the hard lead.

Thanks Scat!

FC

I have the egg, walking and splitshot sinker molds. I don't use bottom bouncers so I can't say one way or another about that mold. One thing is that molds that I use that require inserts work much better when the mold is warmed up. Well, actually, all molds work better warmed up but I always warm molds that need inserts a little hotter then I would if I were pouring plain jigs etc.
I use soft lead on everything and highly recomend it if you get into pouring your own splitshot. I made a PILE of splitshot with harder lead a few years back and ended up remelting all of them because they were not pliable enough to pinch/hold onto my line. GRRRR Live and learn. LOL

I am not familiar with how the bottom bouncer mold works but if you can cast the weight of the BB closer to the open end of the wire insert you could easily experiment with temps etc. By going that route and you don't like your results you could easily dip the end of the wire with the weight back into your lead pot , melt the dud off and start again.

one thing to remember when making bottom bouncers is to put a little kink in the wire where you are going to pour the lead so that the weight doesn't move up and down the wire.

I have the egg, walking and splitshot sinker molds. I don't use bottom bouncers so I can't say one way or another about that mold. One thing is that molds that I use that require inserts work much better when the mold is warmed up. Well, actually, all molds work better warmed up but I always warm molds that need inserts a little hotter then I would if I were pouring plain jigs etc.
I use soft lead on everything and highly recomend it if you get into pouring your own splitshot. I made a PILE of splitshot with harder lead a few years back and ended up remelting all of them because they were not pliable enough to pinch/hold onto my line. GRRRR Live and learn. LOL

I am not familiar with how the bottom bouncer mold works but if you can cast the weight of the BB closer to the open end of the wire insert you could easily experiment with temps etc. By going that route and you don't like your results you could easily dip the end of the wire with the weight back into your lead pot , melt the dud off and start again.

one thing to remember when making bottom bouncers is to put a little kink in the wire where you are going to pour the lead so that the weight doesn't move up and down the wire.

Thanks 2XL & JJ! I like to pour 1 or 2 dry runs to heat up any mold I'm using.I figured I'd do the same with the BB mold.I'm going to give it a shot this weekend we'll see how they turn out.I read about kinking the wire on the instructions for using the mold.

Thanks again JJ!!!

FC :howdy:

Thanks JJ! I like to pour 1 or 2 dry runs to heat up any mold I'm using.I figured I'd do the same with the BB mold.I'm going to give it a shot this weekend we'll see how they turn out.I read about kinking the wire on the instructions for using the mold.

Thanks again JJ!!!

FC :howdy:

My bottom bouncer mold pours pretty easy compaired to some of the others. What I usually do it pour dry runs until I get a good full pour then I close the mold back up with the hot lead still in it. Then leave it sit on top of my pot for a couple of minutes to really let the mold soak up the heat from the lead.

My bottom bouncer mold pours pretty easy compaired to some of the others. What I usually do it pour dry runs until I get a good full pour then I close the mold back up with the hot lead still in it. Then leave it sit on top of my pot for a couple of minutes to really let the mold soak up the heat from the lead.

That sounds like a plan I was also thinking I've got a coleman single burner I could fire up and lay the mold across it to keep it warm.I'm looking forward to pouring.I did have a question about weight placement on the wire I was thinking on a 10" wire I would want the weight to be centerd at like 3" from bend?Does this sound right?

Thanks again JJ!!!!!

FC :howdy:

I did have a question about weight placement on the wire I was thinking on a 10" wire I would want the weight to be centerd at like 3" from bend?Does this sound right?

Thanks again JJ!!!!!

FC :howdy:

I put mine just a little above center on the shaft. Not sure why I just coppied someone elses when I started and they work for me.

My bottom bouncer mold pours pretty easy compaired to some of the others. What I usually do it pour dry runs until I get a good full pour then I close the mold back up with the hot lead still in it. Then leave it sit on top of my pot for a couple of minutes to really let the mold soak up the heat from the lead.

This is exactly how I warm all my molds too. I read somewhere way back when that it's a good idea to warm the molds slowly (relatively speaking)vs putting them on direct heat to avoid warping or damaging the mold. The article said pouring dry runs was a good way to warm your mold gradually.

Re: Kinking wire to prevent lead sliding - In case you forgot to kink the wire before pouring - It is a simple matter to just put a slight bend in the wire above and below the lead, which will keep the lead from moving.

Re: Heating the mold - I prefer to preheat most molds before pouring with most inserts in. I do this by just pouring the lead into the cavities, leaving out the insert for 3 or 4 pours, whether the insert be a hook or some type of wire form. I like to not only fill all the cavities, but also run a continuous bead of lead over the entire top of the mold, connecting the cavity pours. I'd rather not use a torch or other heat source, in my mind I'd feel uncomfortable that the mold maybe could get warped - this is probably just me, I have no experience of warping actually happening.

Bill

I have one mold that I'm pretty sure got warped due to over heating. It's one of the first DO-IT molds I bought years ago. Being beginner and all gung ho I hammered out a TON of jigs one day and the mold got really hot. Next time I used that mold the jigs came out with a slight seam on them where the mold halves meet. It was very slight but for sure the mold did/does not line up like it did when I first bougt it. I assumed it was from the mold getting so hot but maybe it was something else?

That sounds like a plan I was also thinking I've got a coleman single burner I could fire up and lay the mold across it to keep it warm.I'm looking forward to pouring.I did have a question about weight placement on the wire I was thinking on a 10" wire I would want the weight to be centerd at like 3" from bend?Does this sound right?

Thanks again JJ!!!!!

FC :howdy:

dont use a coleman burner

if you overdo it you could warp the mold

just lay the mold on top of your lead pot.

It doesnt have to be that hot to get good results

dont use a coleman burner

if you overdo it you could warp the mold

just lay the mold on top of your lead pot.

It doesnt have to be that hot to get good results


Thanks PJ thats what I wound up doing the bottom bouncer mold is different then my jig molds.It took 3-4 dry run pours and I think I only got one full mold not from the lead not pouring but from trying to get the wires to lay in the mold.I figured out I gotta build a jig to hold the wires in place while I close the mold or they move all over the place a total PIA.
I had a couple dozen wires and cast all of them I ordered more and can't wait to cast more.

Thanks
FC

Thanks PJ thats what I wound up doing the bottom bouncer mold is different then my jig molds.It took 3-4 dry run pours and I think I only got one full mold not from the lead not pouring but from trying to get the wires to lay in the mold.I figured out I gotta build a jig to hold the wires in place while I close the mold or they move all over the place a total PIA.
I had a couple dozen wires and cast all of them I ordered more and can't wait to cast more.

Thanks
FC

if the wires are sliding down into the mold on you just put a couple of wraps around the wire of blue painters tape it will keep the wires from moving down in. Which size wires did you get I use the .041 and don't remember any problems with them moving around.

if the wires are sliding down into the mold on you just put a couple of wraps around the wire of blue painters tape it will keep the wires from moving down in. Which size wires did you get I use the .041 and don't remember any problems with them moving around.


I had left over .035 from those cabelas adjustable bottom bouncers I used.I also already ordered .035 wires which should be here any day.My problem wasn't sliding once I got them to stay in the slots it was getting them to stay in the slots.The wire would teter totter and roll our of the slot then I would swear and well you can imagine the rest :cookoo:
I was thinking i need a jig which allows for the mold to lay even with something so the wires can lay flat so when I close the mold it closes 100%.Thanks Scully!

FC

Thanks PJ thats what I wound up doing the bottom bouncer mold is different then my jig molds.It took 3-4 dry run pours and I think I only got one full mold not from the lead not pouring but from trying to get the wires to lay in the mold.I figured out I gotta build a jig to hold the wires in place while I close the mold or they move all over the place a total PIA.
I had a couple dozen wires and cast all of them I ordered more and can't wait to cast more.

Thanks
FC

sounds like you are trying to do more than one bouncer at a time?

I only do one at a time, its much easier

sounds like you are trying to do more than one bouncer at a time?

I only do one at a time, its much easier


Yep your right,I found I could do one at a time also.I was thinking what waste a mold with 5 cavities in it when I could only get one at a time to work.

Thanks for the info!There's no place like WC to learn and become a better fisherman!:bowdown:You guy's ROCK!!!!:rockit:

FC :D

A help that I found to prevent misalignment of inserts has been to place next to the opened, flat laying mold some type of spacer which is about the same "thickness" as the mold. For example, a board, book, etc. The item can then support the remainder of the insert which is protruding from the mold. Use of this type of helper usually will prevent most inserts from getting misaligned. You'll have to carefully close the mold while it is still on the flat surface, being careful not to move it around until closed.

Bill Krejca

Yep your right,I found I could do one at a time also.I was thinking what waste a mold with 5 cavities in it when I could only get one at a time to work.

Thanks for the info!There's no place like WC to learn and become a better fisherman!:bowdown:You guy's ROCK!!!!:rockit:

FC :D

does it have different sizes or are they all the same?

the production molds are all the same size. I would not buy that type

does it have different sizes or are they all the same?

the production molds are all the same size. I would not buy that type

It's 5 different sizes from 1/2 oz to 2 oz.I use a production mold for jig's but for something like bottom bouncers I think the multi size mold is the way to go.Thanks for the reply PJ!!

FC :howdy:

The kink is a good idea, I started doing that when I lost a weight once.

I leave the mold sit on top of the smelter I have, and just pour a few rounds till the mold gets hot.

I run the weight pretty far up the wire, maybe an inch down from the top.
I'll use both straight .35 wire or the safety pin design, just bought them pre made, just seemed easier that way.

Wheel weight lead has worked the best for me, but ya have to deal with smelting it down into useable ingots and to get rid of all the non lead stuff.

Al

I cast my own Bottom bouncers.I use a DO-IT trolling sinker mold(Mod.STR-4-MED) that I have modified to accept a BB wire. I cut a small notch at the top of each cavity to accept the wire.
This way I make trolling weights or bottom bouncers from 3/4 to 2 ounces.

I cast my own Bottom bouncers.I use a DO-IT trolling sinker mold(Mod.STR-4-MED) that I have modified to accept a BB wire. I cut a small notch at the top of each cavity to accept the wire.
This way I make trolling weights or bottom bouncers from 3/4 to 2 ounces.


Bob now that is cool!!!That's what HGT is all about!
Thanks for sharing I look forward to seeing some of your work.

FC

I bored out the hole on my BB molds, so they would accept a larger wire. I use .063 wire, cut-offs from a welding store. The bonus was the wire had flattened out spots in the wire every 6 inches or so. By careful selection of the wires, I was able to eliminate the wire bending by putting the flattened spot either in the mold, or just below it.

Also, if you have yet to purchase the mold, it's nice to have one with the weight in the mold, so it's cast into your lead when your done.

I like the thicker wire a lot, and have pretty much switched to slip bouncers instead of the traditional R bend.

I have a wire bender, but it's faster to bend with a needle nose pliers. To bend the thicker wire, not every needle nose will hold up to the side stress on the pliers. For a while, it was snap on needle nose pliers were the only ones I could find strong enough. Then, I discovered the discount branded needle nose pliers sold at Menards were just as strong, and inexpensive.

It's been a few years, I salvaged some of the wire cutoffs that did not have a flattened out spot located in the right area, I can't recall if I did that in a vise, or if I beat it on an anvil? It worked, but I'm not sure which method did the trick for me?

I bored out the hole on my BB molds, so they would accept a larger wire. I use .063 wire, cut-offs from a welding store. The bonus was the wire had flattened out spots in the wire every 6 inches or so. By careful selection of the wires, I was able to eliminate the wire bending by putting the flattened spot either in the mold, or just below it.

Also, if you have yet to purchase the mold, it's nice to have one with the weight in the mold, so it's cast into your lead when your done.

I like the thicker wire a lot, and have pretty much switched to slip bouncers instead of the traditional R bend.

I have a wire bender, but it's faster to bend with a needle nose pliers. To bend the thicker wire, not every needle nose will hold up to the side stress on the pliers. For a while, it was snap on needle nose pliers were the only ones I could find strong enough. Then, I discovered the discount branded needle nose pliers sold at Menards were just as strong, and inexpensive.

It's been a few years, I salvaged some of the wire cutoffs that did not have a flattened out spot located in the right area, I can't recall if I did that in a vise, or if I beat it on an anvil? It worked, but I'm not sure which method did the trick for me?

This is outside the box Burr!!So instead of putting a kink in the wire you flattened it,that's cool!I guess with the thicker wire you can do that.The do it mold I got only accepts .035 and I'm no machinist and have no access to the tools I would need to make the groves bigger.It would be good to be able to use thicker wire the thin wire is a PIA to work with.

FC

This is outside the box Burr!!So instead of putting a kink in the wire you flattened it,that's cool!I guess with the thicker wire you can do that.The do it mold I got only accepts .035 and I'm no machinist and have no access to the tools I would need to make the groves bigger.It would be good to be able to use thicker wire the thin wire is a PIA to work with.

FC

Depending on the mold, a somewhat larger drill bit could maybe be used to enlarge the slot. If I were doing it, I'd position the bit in the slot to be enlarged, gently close the mold securely onto the bit and carefully drill away.


Bill Krejca

Depending on the mold, a somewhat larger drill bit could maybe be used to enlarge the slot. If I were doing it, I'd position the bit in the slot to be enlarged, gently close the mold securely onto the bit and carefully drill away.


Bill Krejca

I would try that Bill but I'm all thumbs put a tool in my hand and it usually cut's my other hand.Seriously though I have around 100 or so .035 wires left then I'm thinking about making the slots a little bigger.The .035 wires are to thin in my opinion.At least the ones I got from Hagens there like ribbon flexable.I got some others from a guy on ebay and they seem more rigid.

Thanks Bill,
FC

I use heavier SS wire for my bouncers so they bend less and make a better tap on rock. I make them straight and rig them with a loop on top so they act like a big slip sinker.

I also use a 6 inch piece of lighter wire and bend it 180 degrees 1/2 inch from one end, put the bend inside the mold (so the lead can't be pulled off the form), leaving the other end sticking out. After molding, I bend a 3/16 loop and clip off the tag. Unlimited supply of snap weights in every size without having to buy another mold!

I use heavier SS wire for my bouncers so they bend less and make a better tap on rock. I make them straight and rig them with a loop on top so they act like a big slip sinker.

I also use a 6 inch piece of lighter wire and bend it 180 degrees 1/2 inch from one end, put the bend inside the mold (so the lead can't be pulled off the form), leaving the other end sticking out. After molding, I bend a 3/16 loop and clip off the tag. Unlimited supply of snap weights in every size without having to buy another mold!

First off "Take Off Eh"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot70G4wSQi0

That sounds great.These where my first BB I ordered the wire and wasn't to happy with it it seems very light.I am looking into getting a bender and wire to make my own BB 100%.I'd love to see a picture of your finished product.

OH BIG FAN "it's like it was sung by angles"!!!

FC :rock-on:

Right back atcha...Hoser.

Getcha those pix tomoro night. Am traveling for work at the moment. If you're open to advice, I buy my wire from a welding supply place. They have SS wire in several diameters from whippy all the way to bike-spoke/musky lure diameter. I buy it by the pound in 3 ft lengths, cut them into 12 inch pieces and it keeps me busy for a while. Clamp your mold (gently) in a vise and drill it out top and bottom to accomodate bigger wire. You can get machinist's bits the same exact size in thousandths as your wire. I have a cheap bender that worked OK with light wire, on my heavier stuff I use (can I say names here?) a Big Blue Bender from Do-it. I then use a #7 leader ferrule from AFW versus twisting a loop. Also on light wire a 3/16" punch tightened in a vise coupled with a Vise-grip on the tag end of the wire will make as nice of a loop/twist as a tool will.

Hope some of that helped...

Right back atcha...Hoser.

Getcha those pix tomoro night. Am traveling for work at the moment. If you're open to advice, I buy my wire from a welding supply place. They have SS wire in several diameters from whippy all the way to bike-spoke/musky lure diameter. I buy it by the pound in 3 ft lengths, cut them into 12 inch pieces and it keeps me busy for a while. Clamp your mold (gently) in a vise and drill it out top and bottom to accomodate bigger wire. You can get machinist's bits the same exact size in thousandths as your wire. I have a cheap bender that worked OK with light wire, on my heavier stuff I use (can I say names here?) a Big Blue Bender from Do-it. I then use a #7 leader ferrule from AFW versus twisting a loop. Also on light wire a 3/16" punch tightened in a vise coupled with a Vise-grip on the tag end of the wire will make as nice of a loop/twist as a tool will.

Hope some of that helped...


This is great info thanks for sharing!

FC