Good fillet knife?

[Steve1]

What is a good knife to buy. My Normark does not hold an edge very good.

[oddball]

I just bought a rapala martini fillet knife its made with alloy steel not 400 series stainless it holds an edge and a sharper one alot longer and sharpens in 1/4 of the time .its has a thinner and narrower blade . I been using a electric for 6yrs and the last 3 times i didn't even plug it in ,cleaned over 60 fish only shapened it once around # 50

[Phil T.]

The Normark Rapala knife is indeed soft, but that makes it easy to resharpen. In contrast, I also have a Gerber Coho which stays sharp a long time, but is a bear to resharpen. I think one could buy a dozen Normarks(at the K-Mart sale price) for the price of one of the Gerbers like mine.

[cisco]

Don Canney in Cedar Rapids makes what he calls the Leech Lake fillet knife. I have one and it is super. I've seen it advertised on some website, but don't remember which one. It is often advertised in Wis Outdoor News and the Minn edition of Outdoor News.

[John in MN]

LAST EDITED ON Jul-10-00 AT 10:14PM (CST)[p]I bought a Leech Lake fillet knife made by Don Canney at the Minneapolis Sportsmen Show this spring. It is expensive, but may be the last knife I buy if I don't lose it. It is extremely sharp and is just as sharp now after cleaning 'eyes all season. I can bring it back to the Sportsmen Show each year for sharpening, send it to them for sharpening or if you're in their area, stop in and they'll sharpen it. E-mail me if you would like the address.

[Fishinnut]

Cutco makes a real nice fillet knife. The blade retracts and locks in the handle giving you the option of different length knives. The handle is non-slip rubber.

[tank]

KERSHAW makes a good knife. 6" blade that pulls out to 12" from the handel. Good for big lake trout!

[mossboss]

I went down to our local buthcher shop and bought one of his. All those years with the fillet knife that you bought at your local sporting good store. I think the brand name is Foreschner. Also, a good steel for after you are done is a good investment. Oh, and the guy only charged me $15.

[Hans]

The best fillet knife ever made, hands down, is the Böker 600. You'll need to go to a good cuttlery distributor (not your local bait shop) to get one, and be prepared to spend about $75.00, but you'll never regret a nickel of it. Wonderfully flexible and holds a razor edge through a week of shore lunches for a crew of 10.

Hans

--
"There is nothing; absolutely nothing; half so much worth doing,
as simply messing about in boats." :-)

[Rick J.]

#####://209.35.185.42/ShopSite/Fishing_Knives_Boker_Knives.html

The above site shows that the Boker 600 knife can be purchased for $57. I have no experience with this knife but I do like Boker products.

[Hans]

At $57.00, that would be a real bargain. I recall that I paid at least $65.00 for mine about 10 years ago.

Hans

--
"There is nothing; absolutely nothing; half so much worth doing,
as simply messing about in boats." :-)

[Rick Johnston]

#####://salesassociate.com/sc/products.asp?ID=192&Category=243

Even better price of $40 for the Boker 600.

[Andrew]

By far the best knives I have ever used (and I have quite a collection!) are Cold Steel. They have lived up to their reputation time and again for me.
They make a great fillet knife in three sizes...a 9" blade, 7.5", and 6". They all come with rubberized (Kraton) handles and keep an edge like no other. The best thing is that they each retail for less than $30.
I have the 9" (for salmon and such) and I am getting ready to order the 6" for walleye and such.
Check them out...you won't be sorry!

www.coldsteel.com.

Also, I have never seen a Boker fillet knife, but Boker has an excellent reputation.
Also, stay away from 440 stainless. Alot of knife makers make knives with it. But it doesn't hold an edge very well. You don't need stainless just because it is a fillet knife...just wash it off, and wipe a little gun oil or reel oil on it. I have never had a bit of rust on my knives.

[Fin Addict]

I have been using a Wusthoff Trident fillet knife for several years now. About $80. Really holds an edge nicely even if cutting through bones. I have an old Rapala knife that I keep on the boat that I found on the bottom of the lake when swimming 20+ years ago and while there is not much left of the blade it is sharp enough that you could shave with it. Whatever you get, buy a good sharpening system and learn how to use it. A good well maintained knife should hold a nice edge for an awful long time. Keeping them very sharp is easy if you take the time to learn how. Go to a cutlery shop or knife shop and they will set you up and show you how to keep things sharp.

[Fin Addict]

Where did you get the Marttiini Knife? Just got one for my birthday. Very nice but I really don't need it and would like to exchange it for something I need.

[Spinner]

You might want to consider an electric fillet knife. I bought one a few years back and love it. I can clean fish much faster and get more meat.

[fisherman]

Don Canney does't have a clue on knife making. Just sells knifes. Guy in Marengo Ia. makes em all for him...

[aurora]

he has enough of a clue to get his name put on it though

[cmb]

MORE MEAT, HOW ?
every time I have seen one used more meat is what was left on the carcas! I don't see how you could possibly get more meat than by cutting the old fashend way, with a sharp fillet knife. I suppose that,if you were a master with your electric, you could possibly get about as much meat. but never more.

[JohnP]

Now that we know what the good knives are, how about the best way to sharpen them? I have spent untold amounts of dollars on gimmicks tha are supposed to put a razor edge on a knife, and maybe its me, but I haven't found one I like yet. Any recommendations?
Thanx, JohnP

[Andrew]

This past year I have been playing with a standard knife sharpening steel. Very fast and very effective for dressing a knife. Especially after cleaning a large number of fish...a few swipes down each side of the blade and your back in business. I plan on taking a full size one with me. Cumbersome and a little heavy, yes. But I feel it is worth it.

However, you must already have a decent edge. If you don't it certainly won't create it. And remember, nothing is as dangerous as a dull knife.

[Backwater Eddy]

I bought a filet knife at a Trashing Festival a bunch of years back that was made from old saw blades. Good Hickory handle, sharpened quickly and stayed sharp a darn long time. Left it on a cleaning table at the Big Mo. I bet whoever has it now still has a great knife!

My point is good steel makes a knife and functionality. The old timer who made that knife knew his metal's, and knew what a good knife felt like in your hand. I wish I could find another as good!

[Backwater Eddy]

UPS--That was Thrashing not trashing!! HAA!!!

[REW]

Over the years, I have either purchased or used many different knife sharpening systems.
Stones - many varieties.
Steel - many different varities,
Ceramic sticks or stones - different grades
Diamond - sticks, stones, and flat boards --
All eventually sharpened the knife. Some systems better than others.

In attending some of the sports shows and stopping in and seeing professional knife making operations -- NONE of them used a manual system for putting an edge on a knife. Every single manufacturer, and high volume knife sharpener - used some type of electrical mechanized sharpening system. It is not to say, that you can't put a perfect edge on a piece of steel with enough work and knowledge, and patience, with nearly every system of stones, steels, hones etc. However, I think it is money well spent to go with a mechanical sharpening system.

After doing a lot of shopping and assessing my overall requirements - I elected to go with a 1 inch belt sander. This particular unit is a bench top 1 inch wide belt sander, that takes 30 inch belts, and weights about 5 lbs, costs $75 at the local lumber or hardware supply store, and in addition to sharpening knives will perform a myriad of sanding operations on materials from steel, to wood, to plastic or most other materials.

For sharpening knives -- depending on the state of the edge - I will use anywhere from 200 grit sanding belt to worn out 1000 grit sanding belt.

For the typical "touch up" and to maintain an already estabilished edge - I typically use the 1000 grit worn out sanding belt. Typically - one pass on each side, a couple of very "light" swipes with a fine grit ceramic stick -- and the edge is sharp enough to easily shave with.

In the case of a very much abused knife edge, making a new knife out of a piece of steel - I might go as low as 50 grit - and gradually work up as the edge is shaped.

I use the normal techniques of double edge -- first a 17 degree - course edge, and then a final finishing edge of 24 degrees.

When I first began, I used a jig -- but after many knives - free handing is much quicker and gives the same edge.

I always sharpen with the belt going downward -- normal rotation of the belt -- and with the sharp edge of the blade "ALWAYS" pointed downward as well. This keeps the sharp -- and getting sharper edge -- from ever getting caught in the belt and doing serious damage or injury.

I always sharpen the blade until -- under very close examination -- I can see a very slight "curl of the steel. This implies that the edge of the knife is so thin that it has basically disappeared -- and the edge is so thin that it has lost its shape. The final step of the very very very "Light" stroke or two of the ceramic stick -- with the sharp edge of the knife pointed at an indward and downward angle toward the stick -- removes this very fine "curl" of metal - and leaves the very thin - very sharp blade for excellent filleting.


All of the other comments about knives are right on. The better -- many different folks have definitions of what better is -- the steel the harder it is to sharpen the knife -- but the longer the edge will hold. If the knife is too hard -- there may be a problem with brittleness, and the edge may chip. As in everything -- there is a balance in steel composition between hardness, toughness, and brittleness.

With the belt sharpening system outlined above - it is just as easy to put a razor edge on a Lansky knife, a Gerber knife, a Buck knife, a Boker knife, as it is for the soft easily dulled Rapella knife.

Perhaps one of the most important things about knife sharpening is that -- gentleness is important. It isn't how much steel is removed from the knife -- less is better -- but what is done with the steel that is left on the knife. Basically, you only need to gently "straighten" a curled edge - or remove a nick or two.

Remember -- don't remove steel -- straighten the bent edges --

Another very very good thing to do to keep a knife sharp is to never never cut bone. Cut only flesh - and don't cut scales.

When filleting - slip your knife between the scales on the initial cuts - slip the knife under the backbone skin, and cut from the inside out, so that the knife separates and slides through the scales - rather than trying to cut through the very hard scales. and when the tip of the knife touches bone -- stop and go around the bone.

If you have always filleted fish by cutting through the bones and then taking the bones out afterward -- learn how ---- with your very sharp fillet knife -- to cut around the bones, when the fillet is still on the fish. This means that you never cut scales, never cut bones, cut only flesh, and skin -- and you will clean hundreds more fish without sharpening - with less effort and a better final job.

Stay sharp and take care

REW

[The Great Guide]

I've used a Kershaw knife for over 15 years. I has a removable blade and plastic gripped handle. Stays sharp and can be easily honed. Price - around $35.00.

[Fin Addict]

While the system you describe is fast and will give a razor sharp edge, the edge will not last as long as a knife sharpened by hand. The system you describe followed by going over with a rubber polishing wheel (the type impregnated with a mild abrasive compound) will give the sharpest edge I can put on a knife but don't take it to Canada on a week long trip and expect the edge to last. Best method I have found to get a good long lasting edge is to get a good rough edge with 2-3 different abrasion levels on the diamond style "stones." Once the edge looks good, I progress to a good steel rod til the knife feels very sharp and finally I use a ceramic rod rig w/ proper angle established as they are seated in a wooden block. The above takes longer but will remove less metal and give a longer lasting edge with a nice burr (makes the edge last longer). If you touch up after every use w/ the steel and ceramic it will be rare that the whole procedure will be needed.

[Gizmo]

I am no expert on filet knives but I know some people who are- Canadian fishing guides. Nearly all of them use Normark knives and they oughta know! They sharpen with a steel very often and keep them razor sharp.

[EyeBoy]

WHEW!!! lots of great brand names and some more obscure ones. One is conspicuous by its absence;BUCK. IMHO they make an outstanding fillet knife. Even better its a folder w/no sheath to loose, as well as having a lanyard for your wrist (for the butterfinger types):'(
Holds an edge very well and is not too bad to touch up when, if ever necessary.
FISH-ON!!!!!