X75 WIRING HOOK-UPS FOR TROLLING MOTOR

[TODD]

I JUST HOOKED MY X75 UP TO MY TROLLING MOTOR(MINNKOTA) WHEN I STEP ON THE PEDAL I GET A STRAIGHT LINE ON MY SCREEN FOR A SECOND. THEN I GET MY READING FROM THE GRAPH. I HOOKED THE WIRING INTO MY BATTERY INDICATOR ON MY LUND 1900. MY QUESTION IS WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO CONNECT THE WIRING TO? THE WIRE WAS'NT NEAR LONG ENOUGH TO REACH THE BATTERY STORAGE. ALSO I'M NOT GETTING ANY FISH ARCHES. PLEASE ADVISE

[Dave in Mpls]

You need to wire that X75 DIRECTLY TO THE CRANKING BATTERY!! Not to your deep cycle batteries (trolling motor will give you interference), not to an accessory fuse on the panel (pumps, etc will give you interference), but directly to the cranking battery. 14 ga wire can be used to extend the power and neg leads. Mount the 3 amp fuse as close to the battery as practical (i.e. ring terminal to one end of inline fuse holder, 14 ga extension to other end)

As for arches, take the unit out of "Auto"

Regards

[redbone]

wiring to the starting battery is the surest way to avoid interferance. the other way that works real good is to hook the hot lead to the trim switch at the bow, and the ground to the ground wire for the bow light. haven't had a problem with this set up.

[TC {ky}]

I have had the same problem with a Lowrance X85. I tired several different wiring solutions like the ones mentioned in other posts. Some of them worked for a while and always at the wrong time I would get the same interference again. This is what I would reccomend. Wire the LCR to the starting motor battery and install the transducer on a Titelock Transducer holder on the front of the boat. It is not as handy as the trolling motor set but I have not had any more problems. After you get used to the new bracket it is no big deal. Contact Captain Garys Fishing Specialties at 1-800-325-7181. He carries all Titelock products and knows them well. The setup will cost you $52.85 and keep you out of the nuthouse.