Downrigger rods

[Steve(CO)]

I have a new downrigger (Canon MiniMag) but have minimal experience using them. What recommendations does anyone have for appropriate rods? I know they tend to be long and limber, but the ones I have seen look incredibly unwieldy (thick butts, heavy glass) and heavy for walleye, at least most of what I catch in my part of the country. I am happy to start with a blank, if that is a good way to go, as I do a lot of rod-building. I do have a Diawa line-counter reel that should be okay, I think. Thanks.

[Homer]

Since you don't need to feel the bite, the sensitivity of the rod isn't the issue that it is for other types of fishing. I spent nearly a decade using $25 Eagle Claw downrigger rods that worked just fine. I ended up switching to nicer graphite rods because I enjoy fighting fish on them more (and I can afford them now), but they don't help me catch any more fish.

If you're strictly looking to maximize the number of fish caught per dollar spent, I'd advise getting cheap sturdy fiberglass or graphite composite downrigger rods and applying the savings towards improving the quality of your other rods.

[Calif Bill]

I have the Mini-mags also. Recommend getting the Big jon releases vs. the Cannon. Easier to attach the line and seem to work better. I also add 3' of 80# mono between the release and the attachment (I use clip on to the wire attachments). This allows you to leave the ball in the water and reach over and pull the release into the boat. You can now attached the line, without worry of the ball swinging and hitting the boat. I use light action rods with the DR. For Salmon in the ocean I use a Browning IM6 with 17# line and for trout a light action spinning with 6# line. Allows the pole to bend a bunch when trolling and when the fish hits, it flips up taking some of the slack out of the line.
Bill

[cisco]

I can't imagine how it would be possible to get better service out of downrigger rods than what I've gotten from my Shakespeare Ugly Stiks. Contact the company or a dealer and ask about their downrigger series (BW - which I believe stands for Big Water). Mine have wooden handles so they do not wear by constant use in rod holders. And, why do they have to be so long? Seven footers are serviceable and easily stowable. Check out Ugly Stik, and I think you'll find what you want and need.

[bobco]

Steve, there is no reason to have geat rods for downrigging, it is nice to have a good rod to fight the fish with after the fish has been hooked, I have been using cheap Eagle claw fiberglass rods for years. I do like to use my good graphite rods when fishing for Kokonee because they are allot of fun to fight on the light line and good rods. I would highly recommmend the offshore
walleye releases. they are the white ones, cableas sells them for I think about $8 . The cannon releases stink as far as I'm concerned.

[Neal/CO]

I have been using 7 ft Ugly sticks on my leadcore rig for 15 years and haven't found a better rod for that purpose yet.

[Dunn]

I use St. Croix Trolling Rods.

Awesome feel, great durability, and outstanding performance.
For Salmon, Walleye, or Trout.
-------------------------------
Marshall J. Dunn

[vetspet(ind)]

ditto...i have used downriggers for 18 yrs now...the eagle fiberglass work the best...last the longest....problem is when i am going for smaller species my guests on board do not like the "non" fight with my 8 1/2 ft rods....so i have two sets of rods for downrigging....when the smaller coho are the prime target i use ambassadors 6500 with noodle rods.....when the kings and steelheads come in i like the heavier eagle claws... and my 47h daiwa ...also be sure your reels have the line out click or you will have a terrible time dropping your lures....there is no good way to do it if you do not have the line-out mechanism....i also use rubber bands and so does just about every charter on michigan that i know ...for my release mechanism....more expensive graphite plays no part in the "feel" to know when to set the hook.....its already done when they break the rubber band....and graphite is not as tough...my fiberglass rods get lots of rough handling and still keep on ticking...steve

[Starfish]

Don't get too fancy; cheap Cabelas downrigger rods (fiberglass or composite) are perfect for salmon. For trout and kokanee I switch to a lighter noodle rod; especially try a really long, limber one to increase the percentage of kokanee landed. I took a 10-1/2 foot noodle rod that I had accidentally broken the top 15" off and turned it into an awesome downrigger rod.

[SUPERTROLLER]

I have to agree with these guys, Ugly Stik is the best of what I run for all kinds of fish. They are limber enough to double over to point into the water towards the ball and yet stiff enough to fight salmon and lake trout when you need that capability. I use both 7 ft. and 8'3" lengths and don't really have too much problem with the longer ones except if it's windy and therefore wavey. Then resetting the shorter ones is easier in a rocking boat. Good choice on the Diawa reels too. They'll make things easy to run down to depth for you. Good luck with your new toy and tactics.

[4-given]

Check out the Eagle Claw Starfire Great Lakes series. You see a lot of them on charterboats and the price is right. I use the 8' light action rods on my downriggers and off the big boards.