High end rods - what about the line?

[chrism]

There has been a lot of talk about the rods we all prefer to use - my question is, what about the line? Is it not the line that gives one the biggest advantage with sensitivity? I assume all of you bickering about what type of rod is best are all are using the superlines...
10lb powerpro or 10lb fireline is hard to beat - in my opinion it is as important as the rod we use...would it make sense to put a spool of mono on a high end Loomis or St Croix rod? Kinda like putting a diesel engine in a formula one car..

[steve(IL)]

Right on! Actually though, something like a Berkley Sensithin Mono will transmit an awful lot too. Super lines plus a decent rod will tell you a bunch about what's going on down at the business end of your line. Rods are only a part of the equation.

p.s. I'm not sure we're bickering in other posts about rods - I'd call it a healthy discussion. I appreciate knowing and learning from other peoples experiences even if I don't necessarily agree.

[Eyez]

I have to disagree with your analogy. Each type of line has it's place, and to use only mono or superlines is to handicap yourself. I still use mono for most of my shallow water fishing, and all my shallow (less than 10 feet) jigging, especially in clear water. One of my fishing partners uses fireline exclusively, and I can tell you that in shallow clear water, when pitching jigs, fireline can be a hanicap. Just like mono is a handicap when vertical jigging in deep water. Fireline has it's place, but mono is not obsolete.


Dusty

[cisco]

You bet. For example, in fishing the Great Lakes, mono is my clear favorite for downriggers, flat lines, and birds. I will say, however, that mono should be replaced a couple times each season to play it safe. Many find it peculiar that water and sun are culprits when it comes to monofilament longevity. (You might do some fishing with very little sun, but not likely without water.)

[REW]

I think that is you look, you will find that most of the high end rods have actually been designed for mono. Because there is so much stretch in mono, the rod manufacturers designed stiff sensitive rods to be able to key in on the least little vibration felt up the line.

Conversely, when fire line and other super lines came out with near 0 stretch -- I personally have found that many of these high end rods are simply too stiff. In general, I have found that for my success rate to be similar - when going from a mono line to a fire line or equivalent -- that I need to go about two levels softer in rods. i.e. if I was jigging with a medium rod for mono -- I need to go to a light rod with fireline.

Perhaps it is simply too many years of ripping the lips off a fish with a hook set, that doesn't need to be so great - with the fireline. With the much softer rod, I can use the same type hook set, and not lose fish.

Conversely, when you go to the softer rod - you are giving up on sensitivity -- i.e. stiffness = sensitivity. So - I think that you will find that if you are an attentive fisherman - set the hook on anything that feels different - you will have similar success - whether it is with a high end rod and mono, a low end rod with fire line or one in between.

I think that perhaps something that has been somewhat overlooked in the discussion of rods, is the factor of balance.

Have you ever noticed, that early in the day, it seems that your success rate is better, but as the day goes on, your success rate falls. I think that in many cases, it is because you are fishing with an "unbalanced" rod. i.e. you are fishing with a rod that is tip heavy.

Note: that inexpensive rods are often made with a different grade graphite, and fibergalss, that needs to be thicker for comparable strentgth. Hence, the evidence of tip heavy rods in less expensive rods. The high end rods are typically much lighter. Actually - in the case of G. Loomis - it seems that it costs you about $100 per 1/4 oz of rod weight. However, often this difference in 1/2 - 3/4 oz of tip weight makes a big difference at the end of the day.

At any rate -- I would strongly suggest that if you have an unbalanced rig -- whtat ever the cost -- get it balanced. Either make or purchase a rod balancing kit and balance out your fishing rigs. With the reel of choice, hold your rod, in the position that you normally fish that rig with. Then add weight as required to the butt of the rod, until the rod and reel balance and lay level in your open hand. A very inexpensive way to balance your outfit is to to to a hardware store and get a plastic chair leg cap. Typically, you can get one of these caps that will be a perfect fit over the butt cap of your rod - for about 25 cents. It seems that a quarter fits about perfect in most of these caps. Simply use quarter to balance out the rod. Then if you get in a bind and need a candy bar or soda - you always will have a 50 cents or a dollars worth of change on the "end" -- sorry for the pun.

\\\\good luck

\rew

[REELMAN]

Thanks for the chair end cap. I was about ready to order one of those balancing kits from BASS PRO.

[Otter]

REW - with a GLoomis 721 or 722 with a 3/16 ounce jig in 30-60 feet of water, so you still think mono would be better than something like PowerPro 2/10? Thanks, and good fishing.

[Eyez]

I know I'm not REW, but I'd think in that situation you'd be better off going with powerpro or fireline. If you prefer mono, sensithin is a good option also.

[RANGER]

Ok, I'll weigh-in on this one.

MY (this is MY opinion) preferences are as follows i.e. this is what I have settled on for my walleye fishing, take it for what it's worth;

Line - 1) Fireline, without a doubt. 2) PowerPro. 3) Stren Magnathin in "walleye green". Various strenghts depending on applications. I vary my drags to compensate for the difference in line/rod/reel combinations for hook sets; light drags for superline, tighter for Magnathin, but not too much!

Rods - I love Cabela's IM6 and IM7 rods, both spinning/casting for cranking, jig/rigging, and drifting. ML to L with fast or extra fast tips 6' or better in length, preference is for 7'6". Glass for the big trollers (downriggers, big boards, divers and flatlining) over 7', preference for 8'.

Reels - Spinning - Rear drag Shimano Spirexs'; Casting - Shimano Cardif; Can you tell I like Shimanos? Trolling - Tidewaters. Going to "counters" this year, I think.

When I go Muskie or Steelhead hunting , this list goes in the ol' toilet!

Tight Lines Folks!!!


RANGER


"KEEP YOUR LINES WET, YOUR POWDER DRY and THE BEER COLD"

[Mean Mike]

what is the difference between fireline and sensithin? advantages and disadvantages of each? best applications and worst?

thanks,MIke

[Homer]

Great suggestions. I use the chair end cap also. For some of my rods that require a lot of weight to balance, instead of quarters I take the appropriate weight pyramid sinker, cut off the eye, and hammer it down to size to fit in the cap.

[Neal/CO]

I use Sensithin on my bouncer rod because I snag up alot and I find that 12 lb sensithin is a nice compremise. It is strong enough to handle big fish and has less stretch than regular mono, but it isn't so hard to break off if you get hopelessly snagged.