Is this G-Loomis Rod the right one?

[Paul]

I have been reading this message board for about one year. I have read so much information that it's mind boggling. Maybe some day I'll grow up and actually post information that helps someone. But for now I'm still learning and need some help choosing a rod. I've looked at so many it's unreal and I've tried to make an informed decision from reading posts here. I believe you get what you pay for. Is a $50 rod as good as a $200? I've read both sides. I don't know. If you can argue the fact than that only convinces me that I don't have to spend big money, especially since I'm not a good fisherman anyhow! But I've used cheap rods for years and I've just got to try a good one. My skills don't warrant a new expensive rod but since I have few "toys", going over board a tad won't hurt right? Can someone please help me and let me know if I'm on the right track with my purchase? If I'm way off, please let me know and please steer me in the right direction?
I want a rod to troll with in 7' - 20' max of water, using #5 and #7 Rapalas. I plan on purchasing a G Loomis rod #WTR940C Walleye Casting Rod 7'10", X-fast action, med-fast power, 8-15# line weight. $148 to $190. This info can be found here:
http://www.cabelas.com/texis/scripts/store/+/CatalogDisplay/displayPOD/CabFALL1998/CabFALL1998ACAiAJ/IB302V
Is there a reason why I should our shouldn't purchase this rod? Am I close? Way off base? Please help and please be honest! I won't get hurt feelings!
Kind Regards and thank you for your time and input.
Paul

[REW]

For trolling, this is one of the best rods out there for pulling those kind of lures.
However, I do question your need for such a rod for such an application. Although you do have exactly the correct Loomis for such an application, I don't really understand why you want to spend $150 for a trolling rod. When you are running cranks, you have a strike, and the fish either takes the bait or spits it out. There is little that you can do - as far as not getting or getting strikes -- as it concerns the rod.

If, on the other hand, you want a really sensitive rod for throwing jigs, and "feeling" the bait, and bite - pick up a 721 or equivalent. Also, if you are live bait riggging, then go with one of the equivalent 7' or 7'6" rods, and you will be well pleased.

However, for your particular purpose, I would certainly recommend that you go with one of the Bass Pro, Berkley or other $30-$50 trolling rods, of which there are many. Save your money for sensitivity - for an application that needs sensitivity.

Having said that -- if you want the ultimate trolling rod; you have made the right choice.

Take care

REW

[stinger]

Right on REW! Paul save your money there are plenty of trolling rods out there for $50-$60. The loomis is a great finesse rod I think it should be used for that unless you got the cash.

[ETT (aka Loomis Pro Staffer)]

I concur. Although I troll with the rods you're referring to, they certainly would not be the first Loomis rod I bought , unless I trolled all the time. I always suggest to first time Loomis customers to pick a rod that they will use a majority of the time. Get one that you take along almost everytime out. If trolling is that big a part of your fishing, (and by the way it is that big a part for me any more) then this is a good choice. Good luck.

[Paul]

I thank you all for your help. I've thought it out quite a bit (or so I thought) until the trolling/sensitivity/$$ issue was raised. I have no real problem spending the cash if it's something that'll fit the bill for a very long time. Though now I see that spending $$ for a trolling rod may not be wise. Since I'm a novice (and boy do I mean novice) I figured that trolling may be the best way for me to go to find fish rather than beat the water to death only to come up empty handed like I did all last summer long. My last question (raised by ETT (aka Loomis Pro Staffer)) is, Is there a Loomis rod that would fit the bill for both trolling and casting that I *could* use the majority of the time? If so, I still may be interested. If not I will just go back through the posts about rods in the $60-ish range and find a recommended casting rod and get one of those also and still have some money left over for line, lures or maybe even a new reel.

Thank you so much for the helpful replies. I can't pay ya'all back for your help but if I ever learn how to catch fish, I'll take the time to help someone else like you guys did me.

Paul

P.S. I can just hear my wife now. "You spent how much money on a new rod and reel and you haven't caught any more fish than you did last year"!

Good Lord, pah-lease.... at least a FEW more fish than last year! :)

[Fuzzy]

Yes

[REW]

Rather than spending 200-300 on a rod, why don't you send that on a good guide for the day, in the area where you fish.

I suspect that you will learn more in a day of fishing with a "good" guide - than you will "punding" water with the best rod available.

The key thing is to
a. find fish,
b. find fish,
c. find fish,
d, do something to attract the fish.
e. catch the fish and put them in the boat.

If you aren't on fish, and if you aren't using the right technique, for the area and time of day and season that you are fishing, the best rod in the world won't put fish in the boat.

Take care

REW

[ETT]

No Paul there isn't. Sorry.

[steve(IL)]

Hey Paul,

This is one game where it seems like you have to pay your dues - unless you live on one of those walleye factories where they can't keep them off the hook. Don't get discouraged. You'll start by catching one here and one there - pretty soon you'll start recognizing patterns you can go back to year after year. Keep at it, it's a blast.

Everyone above gave good input on the rods. I'm not sure what kind of water you are fishing, but you may want to focus more on bottom bouncers w/ spinners or pulling three-ways rather than trolling. The cool thing about pulling bouncers & 3-ways is that it gets you very in touch with changes in the bottom content and following contours. It helped me to identify 'the spot on the spot' in many situations. The other cool thing about spinners & 3-ways is they'll catch everything. Pull a floating spinner rig with a #3 to #5 silver or gold blade and 1/2 a crawler and you'll catch walleyes, perch, crappies, bass, catfish, etc. This helps by letting you know what the marks are that you are seeing on the screen. Otherwise, you have no way of knowing what's down there.
Once you catch some walleyes, you can start to recognize areas and look for similar situations around your lake or river. I like to pull three way rigs through areas that I know hold walleyes. Sometimes I'll put a big jig on the dropper with a 4"-5" minnow and a smaller fathead on the trailer. This way you've got two baits down there for them to choose from - it works great.

If you don't already have them, having good electronics and knowing how to use them is very important to your success. I like the Lowrance X-85 (approx $400). I'm sure there are other good ones out there - lots of new stuff coming on the market.

Something I think I learned a ways back from NoFish(Ralph Mucilli of WC) is not to lake hop. Pick one or two bodies of water and really get to know them well.

Tell us more about the kind of water you fish and maybe someone can give you some insights on where to look.

p.s. I'm pretty sure I know the rod you described and it is a sweetheart. Something like that would work well for pulling 3-ways, I'm not sure it's stiff enough for 2 oz & up bottom bouncers. The Bass Pro bouncer rods are a pretty good value in my book. I also like some of the Redbone baitcast rods for <$100 if you can find 'em.

[SUPERTROLLER]

If you're going to troll small cranks most of the time and possibly follow the excellent advice above on spinners behind bouncers then you certainly don't need an upper end trolling stick. The more important purchase would be a Line counter reel so you know what depth your presentations are running at. I use the Diawa 27LC's on my numerous Ugly Stik rods that those reels are run on, length depending on what I'm planning to use that day. 7 ft.-Medium action or 8 ft.3 in.-Light action downrigger rods are the most used. That longer rod gets a lot of all-purpose usage because it is sooooo forgiving in live-bait presentations. You should be able to find both of these items for less than that 150.00 you were willing to spend for just the Loomis rod and the combination will be worth every penny paid for it. Maybe ask around for some help from more knowledgeable fisherman at the local sporting goods store and get more ideas on what they do to catch fish and this will lead you to an understanding of what you're looking for in your rod requirements. Then you can make a better informed purchase. Good Luck and post back with your lake type and conditions--- someone here can help lead you to these finicky fish!

[Tallmike]

These guys who have replied are definitely steering you correctly. If you'd like to buy a nice Loomis rod you might consider the 6' 2" light or medium power, fast action rod from the walleye series. It is terrific for jiggin' and I also use it throwing Lindy rigs with leeches. Paying an awful lot of money for a trolling rod just doesn't make good sense unless you are independently wealthy and want to have the very best of everything. If you can get on fish and assuming they want a minnow or a leech you would appreciate having dedicated the bucks to a good jiggin' rod. Don't count out St. Croix either. For throwing cranks after dark you could do well with an inexpensive rod. Direct your hard earned money to the area with the greatest return first. Well heeled bass fishermen spend $1000's to improve the performance of their bass boats and gain 2-3 miles per hour in some cases. Not a good return for the money spent unless you are rich. You can read about it all the time in letters to the ed. of Bass and Walleye Boats mag.