Doctoring Harness Blades

[ET]

As many of us are making up all our crawler harnesses for the big assault come ice out, I've been wondering. Does anyone have any creative and effective ways of "doctoring" their harness blades? I'm not talking about the obvious color changes. I'm taking this to a "new level." For example, does anyone use the Spike-It Blade Dip (Stamina)? Or have you found prism tape/decals to be effective? And what about drilling holes in blades? Cabela's has a VIB-ORADO blade which is supposed to "Combine the pulsating vibrations sent out by our perforated blade and the easy spinning Colorado design..." Or are there any other really creative ideas out there to try out as we're tying our snells and assembling our crawler harnesses? Much thanks. ET

[4-given]

I tied some with 2 tomahawk blades. One that spins one way and a little larger one that spins the other way. I have not tried them yet. I've put prism tape on spoons but not on spinner blades. You've given me something new to try.

[James Morris]

I've had good success using partially transparent holographic finish tape (scale pattern) cut to the shape of the blade over nickle finish and gold finish blades, hammered and plain. I am going to try it over various color patterns this year. If you try to go for a two bladed combo, put the small blade ahead of the big blade and space them adequately or you will not be able to turn them well at low speeds. The same goes for drilling holes in your blades, they usually need to be trolled a little faster to get them to turn properly (less surface area). Something else I'd like to try this year: take a hammered or plain blade adn coat it with very light super glue, sprinkle on a heavy coat of large size glitter to imitate a baitfish that has been attacked an has some missing/rearranged scales. This should also give of a more natural, subdued flash pattern for clear water applications (ie. Lake Michigan). I'll try this with colorado blades and tomahawk blades this summer. Also, I wonder if I could get a willow blade to spin at slow speed if a mounted a deep cup colorado blade inside it(with the holes aligning). This should match the flash pattern of longer baitfish better than a colorado or indiana blade would.

Hope I gave you guys some interesting ideas. If anyone tries them out, please let me know as I haven't tried many of those last ideas yet.

James

[James Morris]

I've had good success using partially transparent holographic finish tape (scale pattern) cut to the shape of the blade over nickle finish and gold finish blades, hammered and plain. I am going to try it over various color patterns this year. If you try to go for a two bladed combo, put the small blade ahead of the big blade and space them adequately or you will not be able to turn them well at low speeds. The same goes for drilling holes in your blades, they usually need to be trolled a little faster to get them to turn properly (less surface area). Something else I'd like to try this year: take a hammered or plain blade and coat it with very light super glue, sprinkle on a heavy coat of large size glitter to imitate a baitfish that has been attacked an has some missing/rearranged scales. This should also give of a more natural, subdued flash pattern for clear water applications (ie. Lake Michigan). I'll try this with colorado blades and tomahawk blades this summer. Also, I wonder if I could get a willow blade to spin at slow speed if a mounted a deep cup colorado blade inside it(with the holes aligning). This should match the flash pattern of longer baitfish better than a colorado or indiana blade would.

Hope I gave you guys some interesting ideas. If anyone tries them out, please let me know as I haven't tried many of those last ideas yet.

James

[James Morris]

I've had good success using partially transparent holographic finish tape (scale pattern) cut to the shape of the blade over nickle finish and gold finish blades, hammered and plain. I am going to try it over various color patterns this year. If you try to go for a two bladed combo, put the small blade ahead of the big blade and space them adequately or you will not be able to turn them well at low speeds. The same goes for drilling holes in your blades, they usually need to be trolled a little faster to get them to turn properly (less surface area). Something else I'd like to try this year: take a hammered or plain blade and coat it with very light super glue, sprinkle on a heavy coat of large size glitter to imitate a baitfish that has been attacked an has some missing/rearranged scales. This should also give off a more natural, subdued flash pattern for clear water applications (ie. Lake Michigan). I'll try this with colorado blades and tomahawk blades this summer. Also, I wonder if I could get a willow blade to spin at slow speed if a mounted a deep cup colorado blade inside it(with the holes aligning). This should match the flash pattern of longer baitfish better than a colorado or indiana blade would.

Hope I gave you guys some interesting ideas. If anyone tries them out, please let me know as I haven't tried many of those last ideas yet.

James

[James Morris]

I've had good success using partially transparent holographic finish tape (scale pattern) cut to the shape of the blade over nickle finish and gold finish blades, hammered and plain. I am going to try it over various color patterns this year. If you try to go for a two bladed combo, put the small blade ahead of the big blade and space them adequately or you will not be able to turn them well at low speeds. The same goes for drilling holes in your blades, they usually need to be trolled a little faster to get them to turn properly (less surface area). Something else I'd like to try this year: take a hammered or plain blade and coat it with very light super glue, sprinkle on a heavy coat of large size glitter to imitate a baitfish that has been attacked an has some missing/rearranged scales. This should also give off a more natural, subdued flash pattern for clear water applications (ie. Lake Michigan). I'll try this with colorado blades and tomahawk blades this summer. Also, I wonder if I could get a willow blade to spin at slow speed if a mounted a deep cup colorado blade inside it(with the holes aligning). This should match the flash pattern of longer baitfish better than a colorado or indiana blade would.

Hope I gave you guys some interesting ideas. If anyone tries them out, please let me know as I haven't tried many of those last ideas yet.

James

[James Morris]

sorry about the multiple posts... :(

[Stormsearch]

James,

You are on the right track of adding sprinkles and the superglue is the best product to use. I've tried other stuff and either ruined the blade finish or discolored after use. Also, make sure you don't use too much or the blade will lose its workable shape and also require faster trolling speeds. In the long run, I didn't see any advantage to using this method over the clear tape.

I ran some "The Dominator" blades two years ago that had either 2 or 3 holes in them and had tremendious success. But since that time have lost a couple and are rather expensive and hard to find. A complete Dominator rig cost $2.

Some of the additional doctorings that I have done not mentioned is to tie up some snells with the front hook on a two hook rig on a slip system. I only used this if the fish were coming lose while fighting or getting a lot strikes. The slip will allow somne forgiveness in the strike and will slide to the second hook that the majority of the time will also hook the fish during a fight.

If you use bottom bouncers, powder paint some in different colors other than you have. I have (3) main colors that I use and is color combination that I play with to come up with the right system.

I haven't tried the second smaller blade in front a whole lot (probably should) but have used a spin-n-glow behind a couple of beads and the main blade. They will tend to twist the line so make sure to use stiffer or heavier line with a snap swivel.

If the crayfish is the main forage on a lake I will put a brown (or other matching color) rubber skirt just in front of the top hook. I have tried rubber skirts in open water and in imitating baitfish patterns with no luck, but on crayfish lakes, can really clean up - also tends to catch the bigger fish.

Finally, if the fish are biting short, tie up some snells with a treble hook in the back or make up some stingers. Good luck.

[Dutchman]

I build my own spinner rigs and use rattlin' beads when the waters turbid. Bright collors with sparkles or shiny silver or gold hammered. The rattlin' beads did seem to help verse's regular beads. You can order them from Bass Pro Shops.

[Dutchman]

Colors not collars.....Just to keep the cyber spelling police happy :)

[ET]

Just wanted to say "thanks" for all the neat replies. Lots of innovative ideas to get the creative juices going... Great fishing, ET