Broken Prop

[Rocky River]

I dinged up my prop today in on the Mississipi. Aluminum, 19" pitch, Mercury 90. Any problems with having it rebuilt or should I just buy a new one.

[Jimjohn]

Have had several fixed. Had just as good luck as a new one. Usually get alum done for 25 30$.
Good luck! Save up for a steel and keep that alum for a spare. Much better performance.

[Frenzy]

Where u get fixed for $30? my dealer wants $70

[TBO/MN]

Having a prop rebuilt is a standard practice and is usually satisfactory, "but". Especially with aluminum props, the factory lip or "Cup" on the outside edges of the blades are never replaced on a rebuild. The prop will work just fine, it will never perform like a new one. Just a thought!

The Big One

[Russ W]

I agree with other quotes about rebuilding prop. I disagree with the quote about getting a stainless steel for the river. If you hit something with the stainless steel prop you will most likely damage your motor with the possibility of bent drive shaft, torn up gears in the lower unit etc. The stainless steel doesn't give and that's the reason for not running stainless in water where the possibility of hitting something. I know, it cost me $32 hundred dollars to fix my brand new 135 Mariner when I hit a rock in Canada two years ago. Before that I had a 110 Johnson that I hit a rock with the prop and it cost me $1000 to replace just the lower unit gears. So, my advise to you is DON'T go with the stainless when operating in water where you can hit something.

[John N]

Had an aluminum rebuilt for my 99 Merc 115, bought a new one also to have for a spare. Been running the rebuilt ever since, haven't had the new one on except while the old one was being rebuilt. Precious little difference between before and after the rebuild. Russ, below, gives good advice about reason for aluminum. There are a number of websites selling new and used props, and rebuilding. In the end, my dealer here had it done for around $50. Good luck on the river. John

[REW]

Depends -
I have had several props rebuilt with excellent results. I have also had a couple rebuilt -- that never performed very well at all.

Part of the issue, is how badly damaged was the prop?

If the blade can be straightned and the cup added back in -- great. However, some prop shops -- will simply trim the prop to match a somewhat shorter blade -- not good.

In most cases, it is worth while to have it rebuilt -- even if it doesn't give top performance, it will certainly function just fine as a spare.

Take care

REW

p.s.
I do agree with you --- repair prices are going up -- most prop rebuilding shops now charge $50-$74 for aluminum props and $75-$150 for stainless repair.

[Bart SD]

Bought a new prop from michigan propellers to use while my other one is being fixed and although it is the same size 13x19 it gives me more rpms, about 5500 the old one I could only get 5200. It also looks like the blades are a little smaller. My manual says not to go over 5500, so which prop should I use? Rpm's were recorded with 2 people in boat.

[Jimjohn]

Prop Shop Bismark, ND

25 to fix my alum. and 75 stainless.
Very happy with the work!

[Brad]

Russ W is right. If you hit something with stainless, you can end up with alot more than just prop damage. Stainless doesn't give like aluminum when it makes contact with a rock, it will transfer the blow to the internal gear housing parts (shaft, gears, etc). Those parts cost alot more to replace than an aluminum prop, plus, you can't change them on the water. The softer aluminum prop will take the majority of the shock from an impact with a rock. Just be sure to have a spare.

[Ram Man]

Yea right!! Save for a steel prop? His whole lower unit would have probably been damaged in the rocks if he had a stainless steel prop.

Nice on open water, but......lot of downsides if you fish all over too.

Keep the aluminum.

[AquaMan]

As usual, you all made the very valid point that a rebuilt prop will work, and in most cases, work near new.

However, REW and a few other bring a very valid issue to light. If the repaired prop is trimed and your pitch and diameter are changed too much, you risk over reving your motor if the prop was maxed to begin with.

Watch your RPMs with the new prop and measure that against your pre-damaged RPM/MPH ratio. If you feel like you are getting poor performance, then get a new ALUMINUM prop and keep the repaired one for a spare. SS props have a place in boating, but not rivers and rocky lakes.

Good Day!

AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

[Brady]

I am looking for an extra prop for my 99' 115 OMC
I think from the discussion aluminum sounds the most practical and lower costs. Could you tell me some places I can find a used or new prop at a reasonable price?

[Kevin B]

Brady - Most all of the marine dealers have a wall full of old, exchanged, and rebuilt props. Also, look in the yellow pages in the boat dealer section and call around. While I don't live in Denver, I deal with Jim's Prop Shop (Denver), they've been really fair with me. They work on props from all over the country. 1-800-691-7843. They specialize in props, Jim is not a boat dealer. Fast turn around time on aluminum rebuilds. - - Kevin B

[Time to Move]

Hey Guys! I just got a 115 HP outboard but i thought the props have rubber hubs inside that slip when you hit something. I'm tring to decide on what to get for a second prop, too.

[Kevin B]

In theory, the rubber hubs work. But when you're buzzing along and hit a rock, and I'll say from experience at ANY speed, you've got a bent prop. - Kevin B

[TBO/MN]

Mark's Prop Shop.... Forest Lake, MN 651-484-5939

The Big One

[j eff reed]

What are those websites on propellors and rebuilds? could you send them to me please? I would appreciate it. thanks jeff

[time to move]

i realize the blades bend but they are repairable. i was more concerned about protecting the gearbox.

[Mark One]

Time T M -I've bent up plenty of props and never once heard the rubber insert "slip." I've had one slip due to defect - it would slip with a full load of people in the boat when you tried to get up on plane. Engine starts to plane, then overrevs, boat doesn't move. Once it slips, it does so much more easily the next time, and the next, and so on.
I'm not sure what you think the rubber hub might prevent - damagewise. Please inform me.