Trolling Rods

[tillerguy]

Looking for opinions on trolling rods. These will be used for trolling cranks with fireline(14lb). They will not be used for boards or bouncers as I use others for this. Just curious what others use and why. All rods that I use are either loomis or st.croix so I would like to try to stay with these. Please, only replies concerning the above. Thank you all in advance.

[REW]

One of the best rods out there is the Loomis 7.10"
as follows:

MBR941C Length: 7'10" Power: 1 Pieces: 1 Casting
Designed by professional anglers on the walleye tournament trails in the upper Midwest, this rod is made specifically for trolling plugs, spoons and bait rigs. At 7'10", it has sufficient length to spread out your lures, while its light tip aids in watching plug action. What's more, its stiff butt-section actually helps the boat set the hook, giving the angler more time to react to each strike from any position in the boat. The longer handle is designed to fit a rod holder, and the larger reel seat will handle the larger level-wind reels-especially the new digital display models. Troll lures, spinner/ worm combos, spoons, small planer boards: it handles them all equally well.



GL2
5.35
14
10 - 17
1/4 - 1
Ex-Fast
Mag-Medium
$139.00

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++==
I think that you will find it tough to beat this rod at any price.

Take care

REW

[jeepman]

I concur with REW. I have come to fish almost exclusively with all the GLoomis Walleye series rods. I special ordered as soon as I knew it was avalable and have used the GLoomis WTR 941c throughout 2000 with 12lb mono ... the rod was everything I had hoped to find in a trolling rod - great spread, light, sensitive tip showing lure action, and plenty of backbone to land not only walleye but river-run steelhead! I use the 941c because I like to troll for walleye (backdrop for steelhead)on the river with mono; trolling on the rivers I fish requires only a little amount of line out (30-60 feet), so I like a little stretch in the line to increase my margin for error on hard hitting steelhead especially. I understand that the WTR 940c is designed specifically for non-stretch lines. I haven't bought any 940c rods yet but plan to; I expect to use 14lb Fireline for long line trolling. In summary, the 941c is great for mono line and short line tolling, the 940c should be great for no-stretch line and long line tolling.

[Bill R]

First of all you don't need a graphite rod or a $100.00+ rod for trolling. The best all around rod for trolling that I've found is the St. Croix Pro-Glass series. My personal favorite is the GC70M which is a 7ft. fiberglass medium action casting rod with a cork handle. Some people say the cork handles get chewed up in the rod holders but I've used mine a lot for many years and never had the problem. If you would rather have the noncork handle model they are also avaible from St. Croix in several different lengths from 7 to 10 feet. The good news is you can get them for a lot less than $100.00. Be careful of information from people that reads like it was copied from a catalog.

[Brad/nd]

Tillerguy...... I have been using the Cabelas E-Glass rod for pulling cranks, and I am very pleased with it. Very inexpensive, around $30.00, if I remember right. It has held up well against some big lake trout on Ft.Peck & walleyes on Tobin. These rods work well with fireline, a lot of flex. I will be ordering another soon! With the money saved I put a good shimano reel on it. I think a higher end rod makes more sense for jigging, not trolling. Just my opinion.

Take care,

Brad

[Jeepman]

I posted earlier and explained what I really like about the GLoomis WTR941 with 12 pound mono for trolling short lines on the river for walleye and steelhead.

I also have serveral St Croix glass rods. However, since I bought several WRT941s, I have not used the ST Croix glass with cork handle, GC70M, very much. The StCroix is half the price of the GLoomis. It is heavier than the GLoomis but still very light for a glass rod. The tip section is not near as sensitive for showing if the lure is fouled or running free especially in long lining situations. Fireline trolled with this rod works very well, especially if you fish fairly debris free waters such as Lk Erie, Lk Mich, Saginaw Bay, etc.

Yes, the StCroix GC70M is a fine trolling rod. However, if trolling is your standard fare when you fish; that is, when you troll 60% or more of the time, I suggest you consider the WTR940 with non-stretch line or the WTR941 with mono.

Have fun...a great joy in fishing is putting together the right tools for the right conditions!

[FreeByrd]

I also use the St.Croix Pro Glass 7' Medium Action rods on Erie to pull cranks. These are used by many Erie charter captains that pull cranks off of big boards (also used with jet divers and spoons). I run Spiderwire. You may want a 7-6 or even 8-0 rod to compensate for the no stretch factor in your Fireline. However if you loosen your drags, the 7' rods are fine.
Good Luck,
Steve

[Al]

Just wanted to add my 2 cents, I mostly use St. Croix Pro-glass as many others have stated, I prefer the GT80M, 8fter telescopic, and I absolutely love em for long lining and for pulling boards, I mainly pull with fireline and have had no problems, I am a little partial because of the price, about $90.00. Just my 2 cents hope it helps out.

[Dutchman]

Best Bang for your buck.... Walleye Angler 8'6" From Parsons and the K guy got 4 or them and love 'em. $59.99

[BradB]

Interesting topic!

Next week I'm going to start building my first of two trolling rods. Both will be with St. Croix SCII graphite inshore saltwater blanks. They are 8 foot, one-piece medium power blanks with fast tips (GI80MF blank #). Funny looking matte green!

Anyone have any tips on the cork length or what spinning reel you might put on these? I haven't done a lot of trolling in my life, but I figured out a nice pattern last summer and decided to build rods for myself and brother.

Brad

[Lundy]

I agree with the Dutchman on P/K rods 2 8'6" and 2 7'6"

[eye ccrosser]

I use the 941's also,heres a tip-it's all about the action of the rod!Take a 3to4oz.bell sinker with 2ft. of line,tie it to the tip an pick it up!look closely at the actions then you deside!A trolling rod that is tapered wrong is a deadstick rod,in other words you may as well stick it in the rod holder an have your buddy ask if your going to reel that one up before you drown it!There is a big difference rods are not just rods,people have there own opinions but for get the rest & buy the best!

p.s-I have over 100 rods from all different company's an all rods are not created equal!!!

Good luck&Whack some GIANTS!!!!

[REW]

Brad,
Interesting that you mention that specific blank.
I have picked up the very same blank and am also building it up for trolling.

However, one thing puzzles me. Why are you even thinking of putting a spinning reel on this rod?

For trolling -- no casting invloved -- I see no advantage whatso ever for a spinning reel, and see many advantages for a casting reel.

Another nice thing about a casting reel, if you desire; you can put on a line counter reel. Very desirable for a trollling rod. It makes repeatable patterns very easy.

So, if you aren't too far along, I would certainly suggest that you switch over to a bait caster.

Also, you may or may not choose to do this -- but even my trolling rods -- I balance them all. I use 1/2 inch wide 3M lead tape. I wrap the tape around the outside of the butt - in sufficient quantities until the bare blank balances at a point that is about 3-inches in front of where the reel will be mounted. I have found by building many rods, that if I balance the bare blank that way -- the typical built up rod and reel balance just fine.

I select the size of butt cap required for the particular rod. Then I wrap lead tape around the butt - until it is just a bit smaller than what the id of the butt cap will be.

If I can't get the blank to balance with one rod of 1/2 inch lead tape; I will add a 2nd rod of 1/2 inch lead tape. If that won't balance, I will add a third.

For the particular blank mentioned -- I ended up adding 3 rows of lead tape. This equals about 3/4 oz of additional weight in the butt of the rod. However, when you pick it up - it feels much lighter than an unbalanced rod, because it simply lays in your hand - with no drooping tip or butt.

I use the Fugi concept system of guide size and placement. i.e. a lot of small guides as opposed to the older style of larger, and fewer guides.

For most of the rods that I build these days, I use the hard alloy guides with a silicon carbide tip. I have never found any particular wearing problem with the hardalloy - even with the use of super lines (spider wire or fireline ) and the silicon carbide tip -- takes any of the extreme line / guide pressure.

Once the line is past the tip -- the amount of pressure on the guides is much reduced.

For guide placement -- I simply put a good bow in the rod -- and insure that there is a guide placed everywhere needed to keep the line following the blank, and in the case of a baitcasting rod (line on top of the rod) enough guides, so that even with an extreme bend -- the line won't touch the rod.

For this particular rod - I am talking at least 10 guides and possibly 11 guides.

Take care

REW

[REW]

Although this is a long rod -- I never make the handles longer than will fit into the bend of my elbow.

I realize that a longer handle would make balancing the rod easier, but I prefer to use lead to balance the rod -- and end up with a longer "fishable" rod.

For example -- if you put two foot of cork - in handles and reel seat on a rod -- you really only have a 6 foot fishable rod.

Conversely, if your handle length and reel seat is 1 foot - you have a 7 foot fishable rod.

I believe that I made the back grip at 14 inches, possibly 13 inches.

Trial tape the reel seat in place and adjust the length of the back grip, until the back of the rod doesn't get in your way when you are handling it.

If the back grip is so long - that it hits your elbow, everytime that you let out or take in line -- you will be upset with yourself for making it so long.

I also make the fore grip longer than most rod makers make. I make the fore grip long enough so that my entire hand can clasp the fore grip - without touching any part of the blank.

It is no big deal to add an extra ring or two -- and when you are reeling in -- it is nice to have the fore grip long enough so that you are hanging onto only cork, without hitting either the blank, or the reel seat.

I think that in my case, this ended up taking about 27 - 1/2 inch rings -- using a size 17 casting reel seat.

Take care

REW