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Steve1
02-16-2001, 12:27 PM
I know this isn't an automotive forum, but I know there is some very mechanically sharp people that use this site. My problem is with my 85 Ranger. It has 118k on it. When it gets cold out, say below 20 degrees, the brakes stick when applied. The pedal stays down and does not return. I can pull up with my foot and get it to return usually. Then when it seems to get warm it gets better. Last night I had the same problem. I got on the interstate and it seemed to be working okay when all of a sudden at 60 mph the truck came to a complete stop and I could not move it. I don't remember if I even applied the brake. It acted like the rear brakes were locked up solid. The truck would not move when I let out the clutch. Had it towed home and today everything is free againg. Anybody have any ideas on where to start?? Again I am sorry this isn't a fishing related topic, but I did not know of any other sites to post on. Thanks for any information.
Steve
Email: Deanne@ne.uswest.net

AquaMan
02-16-2001, 01:06 PM
Since the cable runs under the truck and can collect ice and freeze, your emergency brake cable may be freezing up and causing the rear pad on the rear drums to lock up. You might have ice built up inside the drum, too.

OR, because you can draw the peddle back and release the pressure, you might have a bad master cylinder or a bad/sticky caliper.

Without driving it and seeing for myself, it is hard to say. But, unless you are comfortable doing your own breaks, I would take it to a trusted shop and have them go throiugh it top to bottom.

No matter what, you are driving a dangerous vehicle until it is repaired. I am sure you are aware of this, but even if you think you found the problem, there are other funtions that could be suspect and I would have a pro look at it.

Good luck.

AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"

Jerry
02-16-2001, 01:13 PM
Well here goes...reaching back into my brake experience....if the brakes lock up and pull to one side, it's probably a shoe or caliper problem on one side. If the brakes lock up and smoke the rear tires, it's most likely a emergency brake problem. My guess would be some sort of condensation or water in the line or master cylinder. Try bleeding the brakes down and purging the line completely. Refill with the correct DOT fluid (you might even try synthetic) and test it in the cold.
Hey...look at it this way; it's better than not stopping at all..LOL....Good Luck...Jerry

Wildman
02-16-2001, 02:38 PM
I just heard on the news there is a recall on some fords waiting to hear more. Watch your local news or call a ford dealer.

EyeBoy
02-16-2001, 02:41 PM
Steve1;
Another thing to consider; if your vehicle has a vacume booster, most do now days, the valve that controls the amount of vacume to the canister may be leaking. Thus, slowly allowing the brakes to be slowly applied w/o your pressing the brake. You have an intresting delema, please let us know what your brake technican comes up with.
ON-PLANE!!!TOM

rodbuster
02-16-2001, 07:05 PM
Aquaman is right.
Try disconecting the cable from inside the hub.If it put you to a stop the hub was smoken hot,it might be more than a little stuck trying to get it off.You may have to back off the ajuster.
Good luck.

DJH
02-16-2001, 08:58 PM
The problem your having is in the booster itself. When the pedal fails to return to rest after release means the booster is devloping more assist than the internal return spring can compensate for when releasing foot pressure. The problem may be due to a damaged return spring or internal vaccum bleed valve or diafram itself. This can also cause self-ativating brake action as you have mentioned. Tempature can affect this problem also, cold weather is hard on everything. Only way to repair a bad booster is to replace. No cheap fix. Hope this might help. DJH

GORD
02-16-2001, 11:58 PM
There were thousands of 85 ford trucks made. They were all made the same. Chances are you are not the first guy to expience this problem. Call your local ford service dept. and explain the problem. They have probably dealt with this same thing many times and know exactly what it is. Call more than one dealer. Ford must have a 1-800 # to handle problems like this. Ford must have a web site. There might have been a recall on this,possibly a valve upgrade. There is probably a service bullitin out for this problem. Having said that, this is the way I'd approach it.... I'd use common sense and try to figure it out. Here are my thaughts. A brakeing system is actually three systems in one. 1.The mechanical system ( nuts,bolts,and metal pieces,brake shoes,cables, brake drums, rotors, etc. ) 2. The hydraulic system ( brake fluid, brake lines and hoses, master cylinder, wheel cylinders etc.) 3. The vaccuum assist system (vaccuum booster, hoses, valves etc.) QUESTIONS: Of the three systems, which would be most affected by cold weather and why? My guess would be the vaccuum assist system. Why? (glad you asked) water vapour freezing/frosting in the lines and valves. Was there a high moisture content in the air at the time of the problem? Was it a frosty day? There should be a filter in the line before the vaccuum booster. How old is it? Has it ever been changed, or is it still original? QUESTION: Are there any air leaks after the filter, that would allow unfiltered moist air into the system? Any flattened, or kinked air lines that would cause a flow restriction. Check for loose, cracked, broken air lines or fittings. The one to take a very close look at is the fitting where the air line enters the vaccuum booster. Try wiggling it. Have someone apply the brakes a few times while you watch for movement of fittings and listen for air leaks. This would be a good excuse to get together with a few buddies and have a few beer. good luck.