looking for advice on fishfinders

[goose925]

I'm going to put two fishfinders on my new boat.I wanted to spend around $4oo-$500 on rear and $250-$300 on bow. Looking for the best one in those ranges. Will two finders with the same frequency transducers conflict with each other when one is at the bow and on is at the rear on a 16ft. I fish inland lakes mostly under 35ft. any advice would be great. Thinking about low. x-85 or pinpoint 7420, or bottomline 4310. thanks mike

[catch&release]

consider zercom lpg 2000 i know its a little bit more money but for your back graph its a very good choice, i run that in the back & run a x-85 up front with no interference

[Lemper]

Goose I am currently planning on rigging a new boat my self. I have ask this question many times in the last two weeks and get conflicting answers. I am putting an X-15 on the stern and a PinPoint 7520 on the bow and am told it wont be a problem.

Good luck and congrats on the new rig!! If you find out any other news let me know.

Good fishing

[DENNY]

Any time you have two transducers running close enough to each other that they can receive signals form the other, you will absolutely get onscreen interference IF THEY HAVE SAME FREQUENCY.
It only makes sense, as a transducer is simply timing the length of time for signal to be sent and received, translating that to distances thru water to targets or bottom.
The sonar unit simply gets confused.
Using different frequencies like 192KZ on one and 50 KHZ or 455 KHZ means they are incapable of receiving the conflicting signals. This is the way to go.

[jim]

Denny is right.On the Great Lakes if two boats get close together the can interfear with each other.Been there seen that.

[Need 40Khz difference]

N.M.

[Ratskin]

I've been asking the same question, with varied responses, so I emailed Lowrance. Here is the answer I received: "Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately there is no way to operate two
sonar units using the same frequency simultaneously and guarantee you will not experience some harmonic distortion which can cause false or erratic readings on one or both units. With the transducers for each unit operating as far apart as possible you may only experience the problem in very shallow water. The phenomenon can still sometimes occur when the operating
frequencies are very close to each other such as 192kHz to 200kHz, therefore, simply using a different sonar unit that operates on a different frequency does not necessarily prevent the situation from ever occurring. The only real solution is operating one unit at a time.

> Lowrance Electronics
> 12000 E. Skelly Dr.
> Tulsa, OK 74128-2486
>
> Customer Service 1-800-324-1356
> Customer Service 1-918-437-6881

[Riceburner]

Their (Lowrance) comment" With the transducers for each unit operating as far apart as possible you may only experience the problem in very shallow water. " I think they mean deep water--we have cross-talk, even between different freqs, when ice fishing in deeper water-esp over hard bottom.

[Bob M.]

Goose, call 1-888-549-8307. Ask for Clint. He runs 3 rivers marine electronics. Outstanding individual, he's also a sponsor on another fishing BB. His web site is http://www.threeriversmarine.com/ . He'll set you straight on any question you have, without obligation. Once you see his prices, I'll bet you buy from him. Cabela's Zercom LPG2000, goes for 599.99. His price is $509. Check him out. Seriously.

[goose925]

Thanks for all the advice.I'm still undecided,however,on which finders to put on my boat. I was thinking of either Low.x-85 or Pinpoint 7420 for the transom, but now I will look at the Zercom 2000. I wanted to use a little cheaper one for the front.Does anyone use the Eagle 240?

[water_wolf]

one important thing to remember is to hook both sonars to your starting battery & not your trolling motor battery or you may experience some interference.

Rich

[In-Line Fuse, IF YOU DO THIS]

N/M

[K1esoxhtr]

Goose, This is what I did per, advise of a salesman for Reeds. He sold me the Pinpoint system, 7520 for 599.00 included was the speed and temp transducer, I then mounted a 7220 up front for 249.00 with the trolling motor puck. I then have 2 transducers, that are compatible with each other. I networked them together so my 7520 can view also my trolling motor puck and my 7220 can view my rear transducer if so desire. Tho I havent got on the water with them yet. I am hoping they'll be an awesome combo.
Hope I have helped in your selection of locators. K1esoxhtr

[REW]

The 240 is a fine unit and you will be pleased with it. It is basically the Eagle Optima with a different name on it. The optima has many satisfied users all over the country.

You don't say where you are going to mount transducers.
I would recommend, that even if you decide to use a transducer on your trolling motor - if you have a bow mounted unit; that you also mount a transducer on the transom for your bow mounted depth finder.

You will find that there are many times that you would like to use your bow mounted depth finder, but you don't have your trolling motor in the water. If you do put a transducer on your trolling motor, you can simply plug in the transducer that you are using, or mount a transducer switch in the bow area to toggle between transducers.

Because, I decided that I didn't want to mess with transducers on my bow mounted trolling motor - I only mounted a transom transducer for my bow mounted depth finder on this boat. I have never been sorry. Yes, if you are working a fast breakline - it is sometimes nice to have the front/back depth information. But in general -- for the bulk of most folks fishing in most situations, the front/back transducer in not a big deal.

p.s.
ONe of the most frequent uses for my bow mounted depth finder, is that it is actually my main depth finder when I am running across the lake or running wide open. The reason that this is my primary depth finder, is that I can keep my eyes on the horizon, scanning for obstacles, and without taking my eyes off the horizon -- be aprised of instant depth. The bow mounted depth finder - that is mounted on the front deck is right in my line of vision as I am driving the boat.

If I were to look at my console depth finder, I have to look away from the horizon, to read the depth finder.

I always keep both units on - any time I am in the boat -- but generally navigate with the front unit - at least at high speeds.


P.s. That is also one of the reasons for getting one of the new motor guide or minnkota depth finders that have transducers already mounted in the trolling motor - and have the cable on the inside of the motor shaft. Finally an end to having to route transducer cables - accomodating mounting brackets etc.

Take care

REW

[Melonbob(ON)]

If your looking to spend a little less money on the one finder, why don't you take a look at the Garmin 240? It has alot more power than the eagle, and you have a better chance of not getting interferance if you go with a Lowrance for your primary finder (I'm sure Lowrance and eagle will have identical frequencies). I purchased a Garmin last year and have to say I'm very pleased with it. Kinda surprised I don't hear more of it in these groups....Tight Lines!!!

Bob

[RiverRat]

What frequency does the Garmin 240 operate at?

[Melonbob(ON)]

The specs for the Garmin are as follows:

240X240 res
400w RMS 3200 peak
200 khz

If your going with an x-85, it runs at 192 khz, 375w rms and 3000 peak.

If you go with the new LCX-15, it runs at 200, same as the Garmin. This will cause you some interference...

My opinion on the Garmin is biased, just like everyones I guess. The only thing that I like about the X-85 is their lighting. To me it doesn't justify the price difference compared to the Garmin though...

Tight Lines!!!!

[fshman]

Raytheon finder L750. Then, for gps, see www.boatfix.com and look for forthcoming unit from Standard Horizon, or see new 425 RayChart. ... Or even use a handheld. Good selection on Ebay, too.

Good luck.

[AquaMan]

LAST EDITED ON Feb-27-01 AT 11:29AM (CST)[p]Goose, do you want two different transducers as well?

If not, you can run two Lowrance screens off one transducer, (one at a time.) with an available A/B switch.

Otherwise, the X85 in the rear with 20 deg high speed cone and a the X49 in the bow with either a thru-hull or trolling motor transducer is perfect.

These are in your price range, compatible and high quality.

AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.·´¯° --- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"

[T. Ryan]

AquaMan or anyone ?
How does one go about mounting a thru-hull transducer. I have a x85 mounted in back and it works great. 20 ft. tiller boat so the guy up front is alway's asking how deep is it. I don't have a bow mount trolling motor and don't plan on it but it sure would be nice to have a second locator up front with the transducer so we can realy see the break lines.
I been looking into the second locator and was going to go with a low end model - I had a Hummingbird given to me but found out it runs on the same freq. as the x85.
If I do find a locator that I like and it has a different freq. what should a guy get for a transducer for mounting in the hull.
It's an aluminum boat or does it need to be fiber glass for this to work?
Thanks for the help!

[AquaMan]

LAST EDITED ON Feb-27-01 AT 02:58PM (CST)[p]
Is your boat aluminum or fiberglass? (Never mind, I re-read you post - Aluminum. I will leave the post on fiber for general info.)

If fiberglass, you need to locate the thinnest part of the hull, typically the area near the rear transom by the bilge. It may interfere with you transom mounted transducer if the frequencies are similar. Check this with the MFR first.

If aluminum, find a spot near the front of your boat that you can get access to the hull AND will be below the water line. Do you want to get readings while running wide open or just while trolling/drifting? If the latter, you can set the transducer way up front as long as you can set the transducer plumb and level. The farther away from the rear transducer the less interference. However, if you want readings while WOT, then you need to set this up toward the back 1/3 of the boat. (One thing to note: In either application, be sure to avoid placing the tranducer over the strakes or keel running under the boat. Also, if you have a roller trailer, do not place the transducer over the area that a roller sites. This will pop it loose from the inside)

Tools:
Level
2 part adhesive sticks (I have used the AlumaSticks)
Steel wool
Clean cloth towel
Rubbing alcohol
Duct tape
Drill & bit that will produce a hole just large enough to fish the connection end through.

Level the >>>HULL<<< using your tongue jack. Be sure you are on a level area to begin with.

Fish the connection end FROM this area TO your sonar screen to insure you have enough cable to reach. Use the drill as necessary. Be sure to leave a couple feet of slack at the transducer in the event you need to move it if it ever comes loose. Just use a cable tie to bundle it up when installation is done.

Prep the area by scrubbing with the steel wool and wiping clean/dry with the towel and alcohol. No paint, oil, dust or water can be present. Also, scuff the bottom of the transducer with the steel wool and clean it the same way.

Kneed the 2 part adhesive together until mixed (You must avoid air bubbles) and place enough down to create a "pad" a little bigger then the transducer that the transducer will sit on. Mound the pad up a bit so that there is no cup to trap air. I make a ball about the size of a golf ball and then push if down with the palm of my hand. Do not use your thumb, fingers or heal of your hand.

Press the transducer firmly into this pad so that the top of the transducer is level and plumb. Use the duct tape to hold this in place while the adhesive sets up. If you have doubts on how this will work, try it with some molding clay first. When done, re-clean the area and the transducer with alcohol to remove any wax from the clay.

The idea here is to create a solid conduit for the sonar to send and receive the "pings". Air bubbles and soft adhesive mediums (Silicone caulk) will not do this properly. Level/plumb is also important as the return pings need to hit the area squarely. The 20 deg "skimmer" style transducers work best for irregular/non level surfaces while the "puck" style work best on flat/level areas.

Hope this helps. Sorry for the long post.

AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.·´¯° --- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"

[TRyan]

Great info. I will let you know how it turns out!

[AquaMan]

As an added FYI, there are brass tranducers the you can install on the bottom of the boat. However these require that you drill a hole in the hull and I don't like that idea. Also, since it extends 1.5" below the surface of the hull, you risk catching it on rocks, logs, etc and ripping it from the bottom. This would leave a gaping hole. Either way, those types of tranducers are better used on big cruiser boats that see little trailering, etc.

Stick with the methods I suggested above and you'll be fine.


AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.·´¯° --- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"