View Full Version : Snag Proof Jigs
Fish out of Water
03-10-2001, 08:37 PM
Was just reading an article in the Milwaukee Journal with Greg Bohn touting his Timb'r No Snagg jigs (made by Lindy/Little Joe). Was curious if anyone had used these or some of other style of snag proof jigs. I've always been skeptical using them, but would like to hear some testimonials. Thanks.
Juls_WI
03-11-2001, 04:53 AM
Hey Fish out of Water,
I started using the No-Snagg Timb'r Rocks last year, and they have now become my favorite jig to use in snaggy conditions. They really work! I have used them in timber, weeds, rock, and rip rap with great success. The patented 7 strand wire weed guard is very unique in that it doesn't interfere with hook sets. The hooks are very sharp too. I haven't lost a fish yet to the guard being in the way. It's very flexible and can be shaped back into place after catching a lot of fish, unlike the plastic bristle type guards. I have tried the plastic types and found that they interfered with hook sets, because they weren't flexible enough.
Try this before buying: Go to your local dealer and take some branches with you. Put the branches in a bunch on the floor and jig a Timb'r Rock jig through the mess. Then you can see how well they work before purchasing them.
I also tried the Timb'r Rock jig, verticle jigging on a river bed without snags, because it was already tied to my line..hehe Anyway, it worked just as well as the jigs my partner was using. The Timb'r Rock can get to places where regular jigs would be lost.
I guess it comes down to this....how much do you like re-tying a new jig on? ;-)
The only Tim'r Rock I lost last year was on a bite off. Never because one got snagged.
Give them a try, you won't be dissappointed.
Juls
Bottomfeeder
03-11-2001, 06:23 AM
I have been using Timberjigs for quite a while and they are the best in certain situations. Greg originally designed these to fish in wood and weeds. They work great fishing weed beds and cane beds.
Fish out of Water
03-11-2001, 04:25 PM
Thanks for the great advice. I think I'll buy me a couple and give them a try this year!
Pete H
03-12-2001, 11:19 AM
Great Jig. Love the jig and have used them for years. Lindy mades them a little different then Greg's original "Deluxe" Timberjig design. Marketing? Performance? The two things I have noted. The first design difference is that the original design does not have a "plastic barb" that Lindy's does. The second design difference is to accomodate the "plastic barb", the hook "gap" between the wire strands and the hook tip seem to be further apart. This last issue might make a big difference in the hang ups. I will have to try them side by side to see if there is a difference. They DO go in the thickest brush - that I know of the original design, unquestionably. I caught alot of walleye with those jigs and would not be without them in my tackle box.
River_eye
03-12-2001, 01:24 PM
For one, there is no such thing as a snag "proof" jig. Only snag resistant.
Design me a jig that is snag proof and I'll design you a log that will catch it.
River eye
Rigger
03-12-2001, 01:52 PM
I wish they had a little bigger hook
Rigger
03-12-2001, 01:53 PM
I wish they had a little bigger hook
The Timber Jig is awesome. Personally I thought they were a little high in price so I decided to make my own. I modified a DO-IT mold with a Dremmel tool to accept a section of 7-strand wire (this is standard "leader" type material). The 7-strand guard is really the key to the jig. I've been making these for my own personal use for a number of years now. I can paint them the colors I want and over the course of the winter I can mold enough for the season. Personally I up the size of the hook, I mold mine with a #2 hook on a 1/16 ounce jig. I like an "oversize" hook gap. A couple of bodies of water that I fish are the Willow Flowage and the Cisco Chain. The walleyes really relate to the wood in these waters and we actually creep the jigs through branches. We don't snag up too often. Give 'em a shot, they really are awesome jigs and they do work.
Best Regards,
FJH
walleyejig2000
03-16-2001, 11:11 AM
I pour my own jigs using a standard ballhead mold,except I ground a slot in the mold with my
dremel tool and .030" cutoff wheel from the tip of where the hook point is towards the center of the ball for a short(one half inch)length of 5 or 7 strand stainless leader wire.You simply put a peice of wire in the slot(s),close the mold,then pour! you then have a snagless jig at a fraction of the cost. This same wire is used to make weedless hooks like the Lindy type. Try it!
Sounds like you and I are cast from the same mold!
Best Regards,
FJH
Is the head flat on the the bottom ? Because this is the whole idea of this lure. If so where can i buy this mold ?
Northland also makes a snagproof jig that works very well.
I actually prefer the Northland to the Lindy jig, but both work well for most of the weedy and timber conditions.
When you are working a weedy flat with weeds that are about 4 inches high, these jigs work perfect to just glide through the weeds without getting hung up.
The key is the fact that the jigs are essentially horizontal, with the hook on the Font of the jig, rather than the top of the jig. The weight is more in the center of the jig, so that the line, jig, and bait simply slip through obstructions.
http://www.northlandtackle.com/Category/main.taf?cat=74&pc=241
Take care
REW
Weedless jigs work. I can fish area's that can't be touched with a standard jig, weed mats, and some of the thickest brush on Devils Lake.
I prefer the Northland Weed Weasel. I have some of the Lindy no-snags in my box, I certainly won't be discarding them. But they are a pretty distant second to the Weed Weasel for me. With both designs, it's amazing what you can pull through.