leaky rivots

[Chris]

I have 91 Deep V Spectrum.(19'6") The rivouts in the front have started to leak. It is minimal but was wondering what is the best way to go about fixing the problem, or do you just ignore it. I have seen a product which is advertised to fix leaking rivots. (Aluminum Boat Patch). It is a fusion bondage epoxy rod that you heat with a propane torch. Has anyone ever used the product and does it mark up the hull of the boat? Or is there a better way to go. Thanks for your help.

[rvvrrat]

I also have a leaky OLD 14' F-7. Anyone know how to find the leaks?

[Bottomfeeder]

I had a leaky Monarch. To find the leaks I just flooded the boat on the trailer with a garden hose. After the water level gets high enough in the bottom of the boat, crawl under the trailer and see where it is leaking. When you are done just pull the plug. I ended having a warranty hull repair done. Often aluminum boats will develop leaks in the area that the trailer rollers meet the boat. I now have a glass boat with a bunk trailer. The problem was solved.

[BD]

Have a buddy hold a 2 lb. hammer to the flat head of the rivet. Place a rivet tool over the rounded end of the rivet and strike the tool with a ball-peen hammer. This will draw the rivet up tight.

[John in MN]

If these are the green sticks that Cabela's or Bass Pro sells they worked for me. I have sealed up a 3 inch crack on the center kell of my duck boat with them. Make sure the area is clean and really pile it on.

[AquaMan]

LAST EDITED ON Mar-16-01 AT 10:53AM (CST)[p]Chris, aside from the post that suggested getting a glass boat to cure the problem, the other 2 posts and the first part of that post have you headed in the right direction.

The easy fix is the epoxy stick from Cabela's or similar products elsewhere. This will provide a modicum of security for a few trips of a few years. It really depends on the type of leak and its propensity to re-open with use. However, with some easy fixes, they can be temporary at best. Working this product INTO the gap is more important them gooping it OVER the leak. Heating the area to be sealed is the key to getting the adhesive to sweat or flow into the void.

On the flip side, if you are able to gain acces to the inside of the boat hull where the rivets are that leak, the suggestion that you re-rivet is the best. Either retooling with a mallet and rivet tool or replacening the rivit all together is your best solution. The time and effort will be greater, but in the end you will have a better fix that should last longer. Be carefull not to hammer too much otherwise you will crush the rivit and render it ineffective.

In terms of how either will effect the "look" of your boat will depend on the location of the leaking rivits. Obviously the epoxy will show if gooped on too thick. If you replace rivits, they will need to be repainted. Either way, care during the repair may reduce the amount of touch up required. Take your time and do the job right the first time.

Since most of the repairs will likely take place below the water line, you should be more concerend with their repair rather then their look. I would rather have a dry boat then a pretty boat, though.

Best of luck!

AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.·´¯° --- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"

[Doug/CO]

I have an older aluminum boat which after 15 years of very dry service began to leak from a couple of cracked or loose rivets. I had a skilled welder put a "puddle" of aluminum weld over the rivet caps, and it seemed to work just fine. I used this type of repair two or three different times for cracked or broken rivets. (I have since been told by the boat manufacturer that such a fix is not recommended, although I'm not sure why.) Last summer, a couple of rivets through the keel began to leak. JB Weld provided a temporary fix which allowed me to finish the season. I agree that the best repair is to replace the solid rivets, which requires access to the inside of the hull (not always easy). I have scheduled an appointment with the boat manufacturer to repair the rivets, and hopefully to determine why the boat began to leak after so many years. I have no experience with other stick patches, but I suspect that they are less successful if the boat is subjected to rough water.

[AquaMan]

The purpose of the rivit is to connect and hold the 2 pieces of metal together. If you loose the rivit or its hold is compromised, then you loose its purpose. Sealing the hole does not keep the 2 peices together. That is why your MFR did not recommend it.

AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.·´¯° --- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"

[Shawn/Bolles]

Chris,
I had a similar situation w/ my 1990 Smokercraft Fazer after taking 8 years of Lake Erie abuse. I had heard the aluminum repair sticks from Cabela's were temporary at best and that having it re-rivoted was expensive if done by a marine repair facility. I talked to a guy who had repaired several boats w/ leaking rivets and he recommended using stainless steel machine screws and marine sealant. That is what I did. I filled my boat up w/ the garden hose and marked all the leakers. I then drilled them out(nearly 50 rivets). I used stainless steel #12-24 Phillips Pan Head machine screws with Nylock nuts and used 3M 5200 Marine Sealant. The hard part was getting access to the bottom of the hull from the inside. I had to cut an access hole in the bow and had to remove my below deck gas tank. It took me a full weekend to do this job. It has now been two years and I am very satisfied w/ the results.
Good luck!

[Larry]

Where's Bob Ritt when you need him ???? The poor guy had more experience with leaky RIVETS than anybody I know. Of course that was before he sold his Lund and went glass !! LOL

[Dave in Mpls]

That's a great question, Larry...

I wonder if the poor guy got burried in snow after he moved to Wisconsin :)

Regards

[Den]

There is a product out called GLUVIT, i can highly recommend it. i have used it on countless loose rivits on aluminum boats. it does not get steel hard, it gives a little, and dont chip, and better yet, it works. it has been in my old duck hunting boat for about 10 years now, no leaks. this will work for any rivits,or any small cracks, just follow the directions, and it is a simple process. clean area around the spot, put on and give time to dry good. good luck and good fishin.
Den

[DO NOT WELD a Rivet]

You do that and you can never again fix that spot after the hull develops star cracks outward from the weld...and it will for sure.
You need to be able to "buck" the rivet with a flat iron or 2lb hammer or similar and then tap the other end a few light taps. this will tighten up the rivet and the leak will be gone.
99% of the time a rivet that leaks is one that was not properly "bucked" at construction time. This results in a "tipped" rivet that is not truly tight, it can move, and it does move over time. The result is a loose rivet, and a loose one will seep.

[Bob Ritt]

Chris: I feel that I have to answer this Question... (hello Larry).. not because Larry expects me to, but because I have used that GREEN STUFF.. from Cabela's... Not on a Quality Lund either..:-) but on an old 14ft. Polar Craft I once owned.. It worked great.. I'm thinking it is still working great... but your hull will look like it has a case of Green Measels...:-)..
It's a Quick and easy fix.. but not a Quality solution for your problem.. but rather an easy low cost temporary remedy!!..
Larry, I love my Triton 205.. yes it's Rivit free.. but I also Loved my Lund...Rivit's and all.. That Green Stuff will also fix the broken welds in a Crestliner.!! But it takes more of it to fill the GAPS!!! Tight Lines and "RIVIT".. Bob Ritt

[Bob]

Den,
Does the Gluvit go on the inside or outside or the boat? Where do you get it?

[Spurdog]

The Cabela's green stuff does work great on rivits holding two pieces of metal together(aside from the green measles--why don't they make it grey?). You can apply it on both sides. The problem comes when it is on 3 rivited pieces, i.e. the hull, keel, and tranverse rib. I was able to fix all my leaks except on these keel rivits, cause you can't get the adhesive in to where the leak is. I also thought of the machine screw solution, but have not tried it yet. What is the best way to drill those solid rivits without keyholing the rivit holes?

[Virg]

Spurdog From an old aircraft mech you can drill out a solid rivet
by using the same size drill that they were put in with but be
shure that it is drilled exatly in the center on a 1/8 th in u use a no. 30 drill then get a grade 0 with the proper grip length
with a bucking tool and rivet hammer re rivet taking care not to dog leg the rivet. hope this helps. Virg

[REW]

Two ways to fix leaky rivets properly.
1. Sell the boat and get a non leaking boat of your choice - possilby the best choice - if this boat has give you good service.
One of the problem that you have if you go into fixing leaky rivets - is - where do you stop? The other problem is that some times - there is a stress crack in the aluminum - that goes outward from the rivet. Many times - it simply makes more sense - to get a different boat - rather than going into an extensive fix up effort.

I am speaking from experience. I had an older aluminum boat - that developed a case of leaky rivets - these were fixed, then stress cracks, these were fixed, then more leaky rivets, more stress cracks -- each time were fixed -- finally after the final fix - the boat was traded in - and no problems at all with the new boat. It is just that it often makes more sense - in the long run - to trade in the boat - while it is still salable - and the leaks are small - rather than going in to start fixing leaks - that might go on forever.

Having said that:
2. fix the leaks.
The correct and boat manufacturers recommended way to fix leaks is as follows:
a. Remove the interior of the boat.
b. do a vacuum and pressure leak test on every rivet in the boat.
c. Drill out or grind off and punch out any rivets - that fail the leak test.
d. Replace all of the removed rivets - with slightly oversized rivets.
e. However before replacing the removed rivets - check out the hull for the removal pattern. Find out why the rivet is leaking in the first place. The major reason that a rivet has started to leak is that it was overstressed. Very carefully check the construction of the boat - and determine if there is enough structure in the boat to properly support the boat.
for example - if you have 10 leaky rivets -- all in the same area - this means that these rivets are in a high stress area that needs more structural reinforcement. Before replacing the rivets - contact a good boat repair facility - and determine necessary additional bracing structure or reinforcement plates and or angle braces to preclude the damage or leaky rivets from happening again.

On a new model boat - this is a very common problem. The manufacturers use their very best expertise to design the proper strength into the hull. However, there are times, when something goes wrong in their calculations, or the user stresses the boat more than what the boat is designed to withstand. In any event - for your particular use - the boat needs be be beefed up in this area. do so, then rerivet - using the correct riveting techniques -- i.e air hammers, dollys, and riveting nose punches.

3. As long as you have the interior of your boat removed - this is a good time to check the transom, and the splash pan for signs of breakage and or dry rot. As long as the interior is removed it is a relatively trivial matter to replace the transom board and associated face plate aluminum to insure long boat life.

4. After doing this - spending 3000.00 and 200 hours of time - you should have a boat that will give you 10 years of leak proof service.

Take care and enjoy the spring.

REW

p.s.
I don't mean to be harsh - I just know that it is no fun to have any leaks in a boat - and I don't want you to put up with years of frustration with temporary fixes as I did for several years.
On the same vein - any type of glue - green stuff - etc. is temporary at best - the problem is flex, heating and cooling. Aluminum expands and contracts at different rates compared to any of the glues out there - Eventually the bond will fail, and you will be back to leaks in spades.

[JoeyO]

It must be getting closer to spring !!!!
This question comes up every year: REW does his usual excellent job of responding and I always repy with this info.
If you are a distance form a boatyard or don't want to try it yourself. Find a truck repair shop that does work on trailers or boxes. The riveting process is the same and they can probaly fix you up in an afternoon, if you pull up the floor or whatever to give them access to the rivets.