Towing %

[syko]

Assuming you use a normal tongue weight, does anyone know if there is a percentage of the maximum towing capacity you should push your truck to tow? Or is it safe to actually tow the max weight?
For example, if you have a rig that can tow 10,000lbs (rated max) and you should really only tow 80% of that max, the actual max towing capacity would be about 8,000lbs.
If you had a rig that can tow 4,500lbs (rated max) and you should only tow 75% of that, your max should be about 3,375lbs.

Thanks,
Syko

[Don..SD]

I have a 3/4 ton Suburban with the 300 horse engine and I have max it out many times with NO problems. Being an owner of a manufacturing company we always have a "break out point" of approx. three times the rated capicity. However truck manufactures may be different I would half to believe this would also be the case of actually over building but rating it lower. I would not over pull, but you should be able to pull the the rated capicity. hope this helps.

[Boatnut]

Syko,
most manufacturers will require a weight distributing hitch in order to achieve their maximum rating. also keep in mind that the ratings DO NOT include passengers or vehicle options like 4wd etc. The weight of these items must be deducted from the GVWR. It's been my experience that if you're pushing 80% or more of the GVWR and tow a lot of miles or in hills then you should move up to something a bit bigger/powerful.
my 2 cents
Mike(boatnut)

[cisco]

Right on. Don't forget, either, how quickly the weight of your rig goes up when loaded with equipment. For example, with built-in fuel tanks you can add 100 lbs and more in an instant. The "stuff" we anglers accumulate adds up.

I've had more than one vehicle salesman tell me not to worry about towing capacities -- suggesting that it's safe, when it is not. A rule I've followed is to NOT limit test my equipment.

[Phil T.]

A "real trucker" with whom I'm acquainted through work, buys his tractors so his maximum towed load will be only 75% of his semi tractor's maximum.
His reasons are city traffic, mountains, and long-term durability(he owns the semi tractor, contracts the trailers).
Since drivetrain upgrades are moderately priced, why buy the minimum truck? If the buget is that tight, live without some interior option, which aren't moderately priced.
Fuel mileage will depend more on the total load weight than the engine chosen. For example, my old Alumacraft, outboards, trailer, and stuff carried is a 10mpg load. Maked no difference if it was towed by a Dodge Aspen wagon with a slant six, a Chev Nove with 350 v8, a half-ton Suburban with 350, or my rebuilt pickup with a 454. Put that loaded boat behind any of them, and the gas mileage dropped to 10mpg. The highway speed changed, since I tried to drive the vehicles near peak torque rpms. Unloaded, the different vehicles' mileage was a lot different.

[Bob G2]

Sage advice has been offered by all. I would just add that study the vehicle's manual very carefully. For example, with '99
suburbans in a 1500 series, they automatically made allowances for towing weight based on 2 people in the vehicle. They also adjust for 4WD vs 2WD.

Most of the manufacturers make towing and GVWR maximum recs based on 2WD,4WD, also engine and chassis differences. Study this.

Also, I'll reiterate the importance of maximum tow weight includes BOTH what you have in the boat AND what you have in the vehicle.

If you have a big sport ute that, let's say, has a 6000# towing capacity and load 6 other bubbas in the truck, then you'd have to subract 2000# from the 6000#. Throw in food and beer to keep the bubbas from going cannabalistic, then knock off another 1000#. That would leave you with 3000# left for boat, motor,trailer, gas, fishing equipment, batteries, etc...