Repacking Bearings

[EricCO]

Is there a resource or a guide or a Chiltons for someone who has never repacked bearings before?

I've never even seen them or anything.

I hear it's pretty easy, but whenever I go to do something like this I usually end up screwing something up because I should've taken this off first then did that and I shouldn't have messed with that, etc., etc.

[JKJ]

I asked the mechanic if I could watch the job being completed to learn.

Single bearing set are easy, no special tools.

Dual sets are a little more tricky. Need a couple special tools to remove/replace the racers.

[AquaMan]

I think that some of the Chilton's and Haynes manuals cover repacking of some bearings. However, which book, I don't know. I know that it will not cover your trailer bearings, specifically.

It is very simple to do. Have a new set of seals, a pair of cotter pins that match the ones on your spindle, good marine axle grease and your tools ready before your start. You may opt to have a set of bearing in the event that are damaged.

Remove the wheel first and clean the hub and dust cap area as well as the rear of the hub and seal area thoroughly. Brake Cleaner works well. The objective here is to remove any dirt, debris or grime that could contaminate the grease when you re-assemble the hub. Get it looking new.

Remove the dust cap or bearing buddy. Next, remove the cotter pin and the Castle nut from the spindle. Put all these items in a clean ice cream bucket with some gas or degreaser.

The hub, bearing and seals should pull off. Depending on how they were put on and what type of bearing set up, you might have to use a rubber mallet to pursued the hub off. Most bearing races are pressed into the hub while a few others are pressed onto the spindle.

Careful that the bearing does not fall on the ground. I usually have a large piece of cardboard under the area to prevent anything from falling off and getting dinged up or dirty.

If the bearing is pressed into the hub, which is usually the case, take a large socket that matches the diameter of the race and gently tap it out and then remove the seal.

Once those are out, clean the bearing with a good degreaser and blow it clean. Do not spin the bearing at high speed with air since is has no lube. This is a good time to inspect them for pitting, cracking, etc. Take it to a garage or parts store if you have any doubts. If all is good or if you use the new ones, put a puddle of axle grease in the palm of your hand about the size of a golf ball and press the sides of the bearing into your palm. Keep working the edges into the grease. This will work the grease evenly into the bearings. Continue to do this until grease begins to exit the top side of the bearing all the way around.

Clean the hub, spindle, nut, dust cap and any washers and them dry off.

Replace the seal (Make sure the right side is facing out. Usually the side with the part number goes out or the spring tensioner side faces inside) This is the seal that keeps water out, so you want to pay particular attention to the proper seating of this. It should sit tightly to the small flange lip on the wheel hub.

Put the bearing in and tap with the socket to set. Do not let the bearing get sideways as this will warp the race. Take your time and be firm but gentle. Once in, take some grease and pack it in between the bearing and the seal. Just enough to remove the air pockets. All this need to be done on a clean bench. ANY SAND OR GRIT will ruin the bearings.

Put a light coating of grease on the spindle and slide the hub back on. Be careful not to rip the seal's edges on the spindle threads. Place the castle nut and washer, if there was one back one and hand tighten. Spin the wheel and wiggle it back and forth to check for a loose fit. There should be no play and the wheel should spin easily. If it is sloppy, tighten by hand until all the "flop" is gone and turn the nut on 1/2 turn more. If the hub does not spin easily, back the nut off 1/4 turn. (I don't remember what the exact torque specs are, I just do it by feel) When you are happy with the nut torque, replace the cotter pin and bend one leg over the top of the nut.

Add some more grease into the that cavity but do not glob it in. If you have a bearing buddy, it will correctly fill the cavity after you have installed it. If you only have a dust cap, fill it with grease and tap it on the wheel. Be sure there is no grease on the outside lip of the cover or the flange it fits into. The cap has a propensity to come off if lubed there. Wipe off any excess grease, put the wheel on and your done. Be sure to keep and eye on the wheels for the first few miles and tighten the nut if you ever notice any flop. It is a good idea to make a few trips around the neighborhood first.

Keep plenty of clean rags handy and avoid doing this in sandy or gritty areas.

But, if you feel uncomfortable or fear you might compromise the safety of the rig, take it to a garage and watch them do it once. Perhaps this will remove some of the mystery and/or fear.

AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.·´¯° --- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"

[RANGER]

EricCO,

It is not a difficult job, in general. If you have straight bearing caps (not "bearing Buddies" or something like that) and if you don't have to replace races or spindles, it's a "Walk in the Park".

I am assuming you have straight axles:

Have a bucket nearby with cleaning fluid in it to throw the parts into as they are removed. Wipe most of the heavy grease off with a rag before you throw them into the solution. This is a messy job.

Remove the wheel.

Remove the dust-cap that covers the spindle in the center of the wheel mount (hub).

Under the cap you will see the spindle nut. This should be held on with a cotter pin, remove the pin and the nut. The nut should be only finger tight, but snug.

Remove the wheel hub. You might have too drive it off with mallet or 2 X 4 and heavy hammer. If it is really on tight, put the wheel and tire back on and secure with 2 or 3 bolts and drive the wheel and tire off with the hub attached.

There are 2 types of wheel/hub configurations here. 1) The bearing rides on the RACE that is pressed into the hub. 2) The bearing is it's own assembly and rides inside a machined indentation in the hub (this is the most common tytpe). It makes little difference when it comes to packing them. You have to get the bearing off anyway.

Look inside the hub, where the bearing had sat or is sitting. If the bearing went with the wheel you'll have to pull it. Clean the surface of the RACE or the seat (other kind) and inspect it for cracks, rust, pitting, discoloration and ridges. The ridges can be felt by running your index finger around it. It should be VERY smooth.

Wipe off the bearings on the spindle.

Place your bearing puller (you might ask someone about this or watch it being done) on the end of the spindle or over the hub for the other. Place the puller fingers over the bearing (inside for the other) and adjust to fit. Remove the bearing. Be careful here because many bearings are separated by some type of spacer and you might not be looking for it. Wipe off these surfaces and inspect them and the spindle surface, too.

Do the same to the rear bearing and inspect.

Once you have cleaned everything, dry them off completely and inspect as I listed before BUT check that the rollers, in the bearing, are free of the same defects AND that they spin freely. EVERYTHING HAS TO PASS THESE INSPECTIONS, ALL OF THE INSPECTIONS or you need to replace the parts, most do pass.

If everything is good it is time to pack the bearing.

This is NOT hard but you need a rhythm. Place about a tablespoon of grease on the upper portion of your left palm (if right-handed) and smooth it to about an eight of an inch thick, on the UPPERHALF of the palm. If a tablespoon is too much, cut back.

If the bearings are their own assembly then take the bearing in your right hand by placing your fingers thru it with the fat, wide, part of the bearing facing down. Turn the bearing up and study the opening between the 2 races of the bearing on the fat side. That opening is where the grease is going. Inside.

Here's the rhythm: press the rear of the bearing into the grease on your other hand right at the edge of the grease, about 1/16th inch. Push down and drag the bearing and the grease down your palm towards your wrist continuously increasing pressure as you drag the bearing and grease. This is what drives the grease into the bearing rollers and upwards.

If the bearing is the "open" style do the same thing but lift the bearing in your hand and roll it slightly away from your body.

Turn the bearing about 1/8th revolution and do it all over again. Then repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat.........until the whole of the bearing is "packed" full stem to stern with no voids.

Do the same to the other bearing.

Rub (smear) the grease in your palm over the inside and outside portion of the bearings and set down.

Reassemble the bearings, hub, etc. in the reverse order of the disassembly.

When you get to the hub nut do this: make sure the hub is fully seated on the bearings/spindle by placing a lot of inward pressure on the hub without using impact, like a hammer. Run the nut down onto the spindle and torque until it is seated firmly on the bearings. Watch not to over torque, you're not trying to tighten it but trying to get any slop out of the union. Back the nut off until the hub just turns freely and the "castle" of the nut (high ridge) and it's cutout are lined up with the hole for the cotter pin. If it isn't, turn the nut OUTWARDS to the next cutout that fits. Place the cotter pin and split it. Place on your dust cover and put your wheel on.

You're done!

Sorry for the long post but this may help others, too.


RANGER


"KEEP YOUR LINES WET, YOUR POWDER DRY and THE BEER COLD"

[RANGER]

Aquaman,

Had my post in the editing room during lunch trying to get it done for EricCO and didn't see your post until I posted. Between the two of us WC can glean the necessary info to do it the best way and save themselves some money.

Sorry about that!


RANGER


"KEEP YOUR LINES WET, YOUR POWDER DRY and THE BEER COLD"

[AquaMan]

And not once, but twice. I'm jealous! ;-)

Actually, it's nice to see just how close we are to the exact same issues and methods. Looks like you "ben der, done dat" too. I like your grease packing description better.

The only thing we left out is how the girls won't go near him for a week or more cuz his hands smell so bad...hahahaha. Axel grease has a very destinctive smell that lingers like gear lube. Eric might put on a pair of surgical glove and fool them all.

AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.·´¯° --- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"

[RANGER]

AquaMan,

Yeah! ben' 'der don' 'dat, fer sure!

I liked the fact that you added the seals and Bearing Buddy discussion. I felt I was going to scare EricCO out of doing it, even though, in practice, it is relatively easy.

Some girls LIKE that smell!

Later. Tight lines, bro'!


RANGER


"KEEP YOUR LINES WET, YOUR POWDER DRY and THE BEER COLD"

[Leo Kam]

If you had a LiquaLube system on your trailer, you wouldn't have to worry about repacking bearings. I have no interest in the company and dont work for them. Check out the website; www.liqualub.com.

[Gone Again]

That should be www.liqualube.com

[Leo Kam]

Right you are. Mea culpa.