Roller Trailers with Aluminum Boats

[Seymor]

I recently bought an Alumacraft Magnum 165 CS at a boat show in Green Bay. The dealer gave me the option, but I went with Shorelander (1812) roller trailer. I've been hearing some folks say that you shouldn't put an aluminum boat on a roller trailer. I haven't picked up the boat yet and still might be able to change my mind. I guess I'm looking for some specific comments about why I shouldn't put my new boat on a roller trailer.

Thanks

[Gunga Din]

I've heard the same. But I've also heard that if you look at the percentage of a bunk that is actually supporting the boat, a roller trailer give just as good support. Try taking a credit card or thin, plastic ruler and sliding it between a bunk and the trailered boat. Chances are most of the boat's weight will be supported on two parts of the bunk on opposing ends.

I have a roller trailer on my Tyee 1950 and, though I would rather have a bunk for other reasons, I think the roller supports it fine.

[Larry]

I'm running an 18' Crestliner that's been hauled all over the country on a Shorelander RB2024 trailer for 10 years and everything is just fine. Every now and then you get to a launch that makes you very happy to have that roller trailer !! A lot depends on how well the trailer is set up to fit your boat

[Greg P.]

I have been using a Shorelander roller trailer for my 1990 Alumacraft Trophy 170 for 9 years. I have trailered all over Minnesota and Wisconsin. I have never had a problem with rivets, hull denting or loading the boat. Occasionally it is not perfectly centered, but it doesn't seem to matter.

I have landed the boat on shallow shorelines where the boat needs to be winched all the way onto the trailer. On deeper accesses, I can drive the boat right up to the front bumper of the trailer.

According to my years of experience, saying that aluminum boats should not be placed on roller trailers is an invalid statement.

I have never used a bunk trailer. They do get good reviews by those who use them.

If the trailer and boat are set up properly, a roller trailer will work fine for an aluminum boat.

I am curious as to what distinct advantages one trailer has over the other? Why are there two different types of trailers?

Anyone care to offer an objective option?

Greg P.

[Fazzio]

I used to own a large aluminum Starcraft. 21 ft cuddy with an I/O. It was fairly heavy and was trailered on an EZ-Loader roller trailer. It was a perfect marriage to get that behemoth off the trailer and into the water. However, after about three seasons when I dry docked her to look over the hull, I found little indentations where the rollers sat. Soon afterward, the rivets closest to the dents began to leak. My guess is that the aluminum "stretched" in those areas and caused the rivets to lose their seal. It wasn't a performance boat, so I can't say that I notice a "hooking" effect from the dented hull, but the dents were there. I think a roller trailer with alot more rollers would have been a better setup. Or a bunk trailer. Anyway, that's my experience with it. I also think the heavy weight of my boat contributed. The lighter boats we're talking about here may not ever have a problem.

[Terry/JNR]

All I've ever owned till now has been roller trailers. I've never had a problem as suggested by some guys here. I think the problems coiuld be solved by making sure the boat fits the trailer properly and use transom hold down straps. Not the type that goes across the back. If the boat is held down solid to the trailer, it can't bounce and dent it while trailering. I've run a 19ft Alumacraft on a Shorelander for 5 years with no problems from the rollers themselves denting the boat. Other problems, yes. Go EZ Loader for a roller. My Tuffy is comming on a bunk, so I'll find out what differences or problems if any.

[Mike B. (OK)]

I have a Yacht Club roller trailer on my Lund 1890 for three years now, and have not seen any dents yet. Roller trailers are easier to load and unload at shallow ramps. You almost never have to get your feet wet if you know how to load and unload a boat on a roller trailer.

However, it may also be a little tougher to get the boat on the trailer straight with rollers, and some boats with lighter guage aluminum may get dents. But like a friend once said, "Don't blame the trailer for the boats problems".

[Odie]

I've hauled a 16" Lund Stinger over miles and miles of every kind of road you can imagine for 13 years now with a Shorelandr roller trailer. Including one heck of a washout at 35 MPH in Canada. Ouch! But, it's like the Energizer Bunny. It keeps going and going. No dents from the rollers after 5 sets of tires. And, I've never had a leak in my boat.

Now I must confess. I have one dent. I busted a roller arm off and the bare metal put a dent in my Lund. My own fault for not inspecting close enough to see the crack. After 13 years, it's the only thing I've had to replace on the trailer.

I agree with the other guys. Set it up right, and you can go mile after mile without a worry of denting your boat. One word of caution.....Do not buy a trailer too light for the boat. It's well worth the extra few bucks to have that extra weight capacity.
My buddy ended up that way. I can't tell you how many "on the road quick fixes" we did to his trailer. I won't mention the trailer type....Not fair to the trailer. He was simply under trailered for the boat.

[Lawrence]

Most, (if not all) manufacturers of aluminum boats will highly recommend bunk trailers. Some may even void a warranty if rollers are used (Lund used to years ago). If you have a concern on the ease of loading you can get teflon pads that fit over you bunks, they don't cover the whole length of the bunk, only about 8 inches, so you will buy about 3 for each bunk. These work really well. Bunks with load guides arre EXCELLENT.
By the way...nice boat.:D
Lawrence

[Les]

I have had my crestliner since 97 and often will load and unload 5-6 times a weekend. There is nothing better than a roller trailer and most crestliners and lunds deliver this way. If you are worried about any wear, I can say my 94 has shown none, and neither has my buddy's 89 lund.

Just remember not to unhook the winch strap until you are in the water. I have seen a couple of boats dumped on the ramp!

-Les

[Gizmo]

A local Lund dealer is now pushing bunk trailers because his clients are complaining about how the boats load off-center on rollers. I think it's more of a client problem than the trailer's. The key is to have a properly set up roller trailer and to not back up too deeply into the lake when loading. When loading, submerge your trailer wheels about 2/3 and drive the boat all the way on to the trailer. Works great! I couldn't be without a roller trailer because of some of the shallow places I put in the water. Perhaps roller trailers contribute to leaks in riveted boats and that should be factored in when choosing a trailer or a boat.

[lundfisherman]

I have a 98 pro-v,on a shorelander trailer.this combo is excellent.but invest in some load guides before you do anything.if the boat doesn't sit level it will come up off center every time with out load guides.I have a cosole boat so the boat leans to the side,so when I put the boat on the trailer I sit in the port side to balance the boat out.this works excellent.

[TGD]

I have used the Shorelander R-1820 for over 3 years and have had no trouble at all. The boat I have is a 165 CS with a 75 horse Mercury and small kicker motor. The boat has been to Lake Oahe 4 times and been to many numerous lakes around my home with many of them on gravel roads.I did have a bunk trailer on my 1st boat but went with a roller trailer on this boat.The bunk trailer was alright, but the roller is much easier to unload. Iwould defenatly go with a roller again.