transducer interference

[muskyhigh]

I recently bought an x-15 for the transom of my boat. I decided that I would move my lms-350 to the bow and replace a falling apart bottomline. Anyway, I was wondering if there is something you can do to stop interference with the signal. The transducer is mounted on the trolling motor and everytime I turn the power on with the trolling motor on the screen goes all black with interference. Is there anything I can do other than go to a through-hull transducer.

Thanks, Muskyhigh

[Larry]

I noticed a similar problem with my X70A after I switched to a new Motorguide on the bow. I was able to clean it up a bit by placing several layers of tape between the transducer and the trolling motor head. You could also use a small section of rubber fabric. My older Motorguide didn't cause this problem.

[Hot Amps]

Tape will insulate back feed thats generated by high amp
out put "interference" and back feed. Better insulated motorbrushings through larger windings ( bigger motor head not thrust) Minnekota has the answer right out of the box.

[Dave in Mpls]

What battery(s) do you have the LMS 350 hooked up to?

[Heye5]

I think I read an article a while back that suggested using a piece of bicycle innertube to insulate between the transducer and the motor, maybe it was Walleye Insider? Might be worth a try. Good luck. Heye5

[Tracy]

I priced the through the haul transducer for the X-15, they are about $330.00. OUCH!
Tracy

[AquaMan]

Couple things to check.

First, is the battery for the trolling motor the same as the one for your Lowrance? If so, separate. You can get a small 12V motorcycle or tractor battery to run the depth finder to see if that is the problem. If that cures the problem you can run wires from your starting battery up to the bow screen.

Next insert a pieces of rubber between the transducer (Enough to prevent the transducer from touching the motor housing) and the trolling motor housing to help insulate the transducer from both maganetinc and vibration feedback. Wrap some electricians tape around the housing where the hose clamp will lie to insulate that as well. Be sure to secure your lines to avoid cutting them on the trolling motor mount. Also leave slack so allow for clean deploy/retrieve.

Last, you can set your unit up with a through hull reading without drilling a hole in the boat. These tranducers are strong enough to shoot through a fiberglass or aluminum hull easily. Since you will not require the unit during high speed, your mounting location should only be concerned with "below-waterline-at-rest" installation.

This way you can use a standard skimmer or puck style transducer for only $20-40. Just be sure to use a good strong adhesive and avoid air bubbles in the compund. That is truely the best method since you can hide all your cables under deck without fear of slicing them on the trolling motor mount.

Hope this helps.


AquaMan~~~~~~~~~~~~~

.·´¯° --- "It all begins and ends at the water's edge"

Eric@crowncomputerinc.com

[Dutchman]

LAST EDITED ON Apr-19-01 AT 02:40PM (CST)[p]The best rubber insulator I've found is the boot from a no hub pipe connector. It's about 1/4in thick. Make sure you're not drawing power from the same battery.

[Muskyhigh]

Thanks, I have a few things to try now.

Muskyhigh