Ripped out R-A-M Mount for Trolling Motor

[TJ(wi)]

I was fishing Green bay this past weekend and the rough waters I encountered caused the stainless steel screws holding the R-A-M ball mount (for trolling motor-60" Maxxum 74) on my boat (619) to rip out of the fiberglass. Up until this weekend, this system had done a great job of securing my trolling motor. Because the front deck on the boat is so much lower than the top of the gunwale, the ball mount was originally screwed into the fiberglass of the gunwale (vertical orientation of base). I believe the torque on the motor when pounding through the waves eventually "stripped" the screws out of the glass.

Because the screws ripped out, I'm know I can't just replace the ball mount in the same place (using the same screws). I think if I use larger screws I would just be setting myself up for larger holes next time it rips out. I'm looking for other suggestions or advice on either mounting in the same space or other ways to secure the trolling motor (head end).

My options seem to be to:

1) Put on a different kind of trolling motor bracket altogether and get the holes repaired.
2) Remounting the ball mount in the same spot using some sort of bolt that would expand and tighten up behind the fiberglass. (Maybe epoxy in the original bolts?)
3) Remount the ball mount on the deck (base horizontal) rather than the gunwale. But I would need a longer R-A-M socket arm than the one that came with the mount. Does R-A-M make one that long? (est. 8").
4) or a combination of 1) and 2). If I can secure the ball mount in its original location, I thought I might fashion a "leg" from some SS railing pipe to mount vertically between the deck and the bottom of the motor bracket (in the stored position). That would eliminate the downward torque. My hope is that the R-A-M mount would be able to handle the upward torque.

Any boat riggers care to share your TM securing tips and advice? Thanks.

[Hans]

#1 -- Never use screws in fiberglass (period). Use bolts, and back up the reverse with a generous piece of treated plywood.

#2 -- Use loktite or nylon-insert nuts.

Hans

--
"There is nothing; absolutely nothing; half so much worth doing,
as simply messing about in boats." :-)

[TJ(wi)]

Hans:

I would, if I could get behind the glass. That's what I did on my prior boat, a Lund. With the Ranger, I'd have to cut a hole for an access cover near the mount location and cut out the foam from behind the mount. I'm thinking about doing that, adding some plywood as backing, then filling in back in with some of that foam in a spray can. But, I just hate the idea of cutting a 5 or 6 inch hole in a new boat, glass or aluminum.

TJ

[Grampa_Joe]

Why not just rotate your mounting ball about 30° and add 3 more holes? I use screws all the time in fiberglass (as does Ranger) so I wouldn't have a problem with that. The way you have it mounted isn't the strongest way it could have been mounted though. The constant up/down force is bound to strip it loose again. If it will fit, I would mount it straight down on the floor. I think you can get a longer Ram than the standard length. Also, are you using the Ø1.0 ball or the Ø3/4? I wouldn't use anything but the Ø1.0 up there.
-Joe

Hans, "There is nothing; absolutely nothing you could do to get at the backside of the gunnel in a Ranger to use a bolt and nut." They are one piece of fiberglass on the inside from rubrail to rubrail for strength.

Sorry, couldn't resist. Just foolin with ya.
-Joe

[TJ(wi)]

Joe:

Thanks for the rotation suggestion. I think that might work well if I also add some vertical support under the TM bracket for the really rough water. Most of the time, the R-A-M itself is more than adequate. Its just when you come down too hard off a 5-footer, everything shakes - even my teeth! ;-)

TJ

[Paul H]

I like the rotate idea - but then on the big boys (waves) just add a bungee or tie down strap - same for when it's on the road - those little shocks on the road add up and eventually loosen the screws.

I was going to add a ram on my Lund - never did - probaly will with the next motor - but I can use nuts on washers on the flimsy aluminum :)

[REW]

I know all about waves.
When I came off a big wave in June - I ended up with a dislocated joint in my back - that has taken all summer to get taken care of.

I empathize with your screws that have been ripped out.

I don't necessarily disagree with rotating the mount and using new screws. However, unless you do something different than your current system - you are going to have the same failure in your next series of big waves.

I realize that you don't like cutting a hole in the gunnel of your boat -- but I did exactly that on my new boat - when I was mounting some rigging - and I wanted to have a clean access to the underside. I cut in a 5 inch hole - cleaned out the foam, and then installed the rigging with stainless bolts, backing plates, and big washers and locking nuts. No problems since.

Another option -- that I really don't think is a very good one - is to use 5/16" molly bolts. Drill a 5/16" hole - where your current screws were located. Insert 5/16" inch molly bolts - tighten - remove the screw - and then remount the ram mount - with new stainless bolts.

I would be just a bit concerned in that you might not have a big enough backing area - using a molly bolt - to guarentee - the loss of the mount in rough water.

Different options -- none too attractive.

Good luck and let us know your final solution - and long term success.

Take care

REW

[Popia]

I just picked up a Ranger 619 that has a RAM mount for the trolling motor. Originally I was told by the dealer that they would not mount the "old" style RAM trolling motor mount because it would be mounted th the gunale(?) of the boat and would rip out under rough conditions. However,when I picked up my boat last week I was told that RAM has just come out with a new mount for the trolling motor that is longer and sturdier. It is mounted to the floor and to the trolling motor bracket. Contact PAMP's Outboard in Greenbay for info on the bracket (920) 494-3358 (ask for Jeff).

[Grampa_Joe]

That's the one I was trying to describe, but I didn't know for sure if they made a longer mount.
Being your pressure is vertical; it only makes sense to mount it that way. Those little screws aren't nearly as strong with lateral pressure. Especially being they’re stainless.

-Joe

[TJ(wi)]

Thanks REW, Popia, GJoe and all. I bought my boat at Pamp's and have been very happy with the service provided by Jeff T. and Wendy H. A real pleasure to deal with in purchasing AND afterwards. I have recommended them to anyone who's asked. (NOTE: A shameless plug on my part, but all we ever read about on this board is poor service). When I get by there next time I'll pick up one of those new RAM mounts that lock the TM head end vertically to the deck. I think thats the way to go.

Now, what am I going to do with those ugly holes and spider crack in my purty boat? :-(

TJ

P.S. Popia, I caught some popia in Hawaii when I was there. Is that what your name refer to?

[Grampa_Joe]

I would run down to the local hardware store and buy some black plastic T plugs. The kind that just pop in. If I think of a better solution, I'll let ya know.
Joe

[REW]

Rotate the current ram mount 30 degrees and screw back in - will cover nicely.

Otherwise - you can get a nice chrome cover made - and screw in with chrome screws - will look just fine.

Take care

REW

[TJ(wi)]

I know what I'll do with those holes! Since there isn't one in the bow area, I'll cover then up with another cupholder!!!! :o

[Grampa_Joe]

I like my Martini shaken and not stirred.
Ha ha
Joe

[montana EYE hunter]

I mounted a robert's rod holder were the ram mount should be. And then purchased 1 inch ram ball that mounts in to the rod holder mount. This way when you put your electric motor down you can put your rod holder in. I've ran on peck all summer in 3 to 6 footers and never come loose on my 619. USE SHARP HOOKS...

[FISHTAB]

One other sug. If you look at your local hardware store, in the hardware isle(ie;nuts, bolts, springs, etc.) they should have a box of, various sized and lengths, rubber grommets with a brass insert that excepts a machine bolt that expand when tightened down. You should be able to drill your old holes out to except one of these and buy a stainless steel machine screw to fasten it. If you need the tecnical name for these grommets please e-mail me and I can get back to you. Hope this helps.