View Full Version : Front bow pin roller replacement
John K
10-27-2000, 09:15 PM
I have a trailmaster trailer and i need to replace the worn front bow roller.Starting to get some keel damage from hitting on the pin that holds the roller.The pin is not threaded and holds the roller in place with two end caps,these caps are recessed or counter sunk in end rollers on each side of the pin.Any suggestions on removing these end caps to replace the worn roller? I will change to a stainless threaded bolt and lock nut once they are removed.Thanks in advance for any Ideas, John K...
Bob G2
10-28-2000, 09:13 AM
With regards to the roller caps, as much as you can, take a small screwdriver and try to lift up as much as the indent flange as you can. Then take a larger screwdriver, small chisel and a mallet, and working your way around, pop the cap off on one end and remove the pin. I would highly suggest replacing the worn roller with a clear yellow Stoltz type roller. They are made of polyurethane and will not groove as badly, nor will they leave marks on the keel like the black rubber ones do. Then, take your pin and lightly grease the pin before replacing. When replacing the roller, it is imperative that the roller spins freely.
Another pin option besides the cap/pin, or threaded pin/lock nut
type is a type of pin that has a hole near the end of each side,
then a heavy bendable D-ring is inserted through each hole.
Bob G2
10-28-2000, 09:28 AM
With further consideration on your caps, if you cannot find a way to pop the caps off, you may need to take a hacksaw to saw through the pin. Also, maybe call the trailer manufacturer for their advise. I also was thinking keel roller, but getting the Stoltz replacement still very much applies. With the bow roller,
just tighten, do not have to be concerned with it being able to spin.
I have changed quite a few rollers and simply use my die grinder with a cut off wheel on the grinder. this is a 1/16" abrasive disk that spins at 20,000 rpm under 120 psi from the compressor.
It slices through the end caps in about 10 seconds.
Then I put on a new stoltz poly roller, use wheel bearing grease to liberally grease the shaft and tap on new end cap covers.
I don't like to use a bolt and nut arrangement, becuse if you have the misfortune to have the keel to be off alignment during a cross wind load -- the nut or head of the bolt can leave a big gash in the bottom of your boat.
If you use the stoltz roller, this should be the last roller that you have to put on your trailer.
After having this problem on my first boat, I have ordered all new trailers with the stoltz rollers installed. This is typically only about a $50 upgrade, and well worth the cost.
Take care
REW