Transducer on T-Motor

[JKJ]

I’m getting ready to install a puck transducer on my Minkota bow mount. (Power Drive model 65 with 60 inch shaft) I’ve done this several times and am wondering if there is a better way. Here is what I do:

1. Using a large hose clamp, I mount the transducer directly behind the fin. I wrap electrical tape around the motor first to prevent the clamp from slipping.

2. I run the cord around to the top of the motor head and attach it there with a plastic tie wrap. (This would be the lowest end of the T-motor shaft)

3. The cord runs unattached all the way up the motor shaft. I attach it with another plastic tie wrap directly under the top of the T-motor. (Leaving a little slack in the cord to allow the T-motor to turn all the way around.)

4. The cord runs unattached from the top of the T-motor head back to the locator.

The main problem I have with this set up is the transducer cord sometimes gets pinched in the T-motor bracket while raising or lowering the motor.

Is there a better way to run the cord? Does anyone simply let the transducer cord run directly from the transducer to the locator?

Thanks,

[Tiny Guy SD]

My dad did that.....and he bought a new transducer. With it not attached to the motor its was easy to catch and to drive a hook into the cable. Also you can have just enough slack and the cable and get into the prop of the electric motor. I have had mine attached the way you talked about for about 5 years now, and never had a problem. Thats my 2 cents worth. Tiny Guy SD

[Hawgeye]

I have done it the same way that you have and it seems to work fairly well. Instead of a hose clamp around the motor head, I used two plastic UV Black cable ties. In replace of the electrical tape, I purchased some of that perforated rubber counter material that you can get in rolls and cut it to fit around the motor head under the cable ties. This prevents the cable ties from slipping and keeps the sticky black tape off of the black motor head that always seems to get real gooey in the hot sun. When you want to remove the puck transducer, all you need is a knife and the rubber counter no stick material will just unwrap from the motor head. I also have used rubber bands to keep the transducer cable from getting pinched, the only problem is that the rubber bands only last a couple of days....

[Dbl]

That is the method most use, except when going from the T-motor head to the depth finder run the cable through the coiled trolling motor cable. That keeps most everything free from snagging on something.

[REW]

Perhaps the easiest thing is to mount the transducer on the transom, as opposed to the trolling motor.

Disadvantages:
1. The transducer isn't located at the front of the boat.
2. On very steep breaklines - you may have thr front of the boat in 10 feet of water and the back of the boat may be in 20 feet of water.

Advantages:
1. You always have a transducer in the water - irrespective of whether you have your trolling motor in the water or not.
2. You always have the availability of your bow mounted depth finder for reading - slow, medium or wide open.
3. You never have any hassle with cables on the trollin motor, no cables gettin pinched when the motor is going up and down etc.

I used to mount the trandsucer on the trolling motor for several years. After comparing the differences between bow and console depth finder readings -- I very seldom found differences.
I even went so far as to add an additional switch box on the bow - to use both a bow mounted depth finder, with a stern mounted transducer, and a trolling motor mounted transducer. then there were lots of cables to contend with. Again, with the convenience of the switch - I could readily switch between trolling motor mounted transducer and transom transducer. After using this system of my prior boat - I decided to forgo the use of the transducer on the trolling motor on my last boats, and I haven't been sorry.

Take care

REW

[Sunshine]

REW,
I'm surprised that someone like yourself hasn't figured out a way of mounting the transducer to the front of the boat in an area that would not be in the way when loading boat on the bunk trailer. If it was placed properly it would be out of the water and out of harms way while motoring from spot to spot and yet close to your feet so that it appeared to be reading from directly below you. When you make your first million, I want a ride in your boat.

[Sunshine]

LAST EDITED ON Dec-16-00 AT 01:58PM (CST)[p]Oh yea, for the record this is the first time that I've ever disagreed w/ REW. I transducer in the front of the boat is mandatory for me. I tried REW's technique and didn't like it. I could not stay tight to contours like I was used to. The transducer being 17 feet away from me was too much of a challenge. I was seeing history not spontaneous factual information.

[Walleye2k]

If this helps anyone, I was at Bass Pro and they sell clips that fit onto the trolling motor shaft.The cable can be neatly routed thru these clips. I bought them cause I never saw them before and will give em a try come spring time.

[Stormsearch]

JKJ,

No problem with your setup. To help prevent damage to the cable, wrap some cable guard around it (the spiral hard plastic wrapping). I pinch mine all the time, but the guard prevents any damage. Good luck.

[Fallsman]

I placed a second hose clamp about 4 inches behind the 1st one to hold the cord so that it will leave the motor head on only one side, the side which will be skyward when stowed. This way I do not pinch the cord anymore. I then attached the cord to the shaft just beneath the head with 2 plastic tie wraps, leaving just enough slack to allow for the motor to turn almost 360 degrees but not enough to get caught up in the prop. Incidently, I wrote to Minn Kota about this problem and their suggestion to me was to buy the Genesis.

[Basser]

Another tip: after you attach the cable with a wire tie to the motor bung - then route the cable up the shaft, but make sure to route it through the handle on the drive housing. (It helps keep the cable out of pinch zones.) Then continue up to the control box (top), use another wire tie here. Then route down through the coil cord as suggested above.

[Basser]

Another tip: after you attach the cable with a wire tie to the motor bung - then route the cable up the shaft, but make sure to route it through the handle on the drive housing. (It helps keep the cable out of pinch zones.) Then continue up to the control box (top), use another wire tie here. Then route down through the coil cord as suggested above.

[Paul H]

All are good ideas - but Having had 2 of these - I don't like any of them. After going through 3 transducers re-soldering several times - and breaking the wires I don't know how many times. I gave up - I use one of the seperate mounts from snap-tite. It swivels up and down quickly - has 2 trnsducers on it = will lay flat on the floor for travel and seems to work better than when it's mounted on the motor.

Fishing where there was noise - dams - power plants - etc. I was finding myself turning the motor more than 360 and breaking the wire. I couldn't hear it turning...

Personally - I'll never get another MK powerdrive because of the way you have to run a xducer wire.

REW - I also can't handle one front w/ xducer on the rear.